by Jen Benson
Sleep at the eccentric Henry’s Campsite in Lizard village.
Explore the Lizard by kayak – Lizard Adventure offers expert guiding around the spectacular coastline, working in partnership with the National Trust and the charity Surfers Against Sewage.
Refuel with a traditional Cornish pasty from Ann’s Pasties in Lizard.
3 Swim around St Michael’s Mount
St Michael’s Mount rises from the sea in Mount’s Bay, Marazion, just east of Penzance. The swim around the castle-topped island, visible from much of this stretch of the South West Coast Path, is a real adventure, leaving the popular beach behind and exploring the peaceful further reaches of the island. It can be undertaken at all tide levels; however, if the tide is out you’ll start with a walk across part of the causeway and a scramble over rocks to the water. At high tide you’ll need to start and finish at the slip near the Godolphin Arms. The most straightforward circumnavigation is to swim around the Mount clockwise from the causeway, arriving back on the beach on the western side of Marazion. Be aware of boats as you go and make sure you’re visible to others – a bright swim hat and swim buoy are recommended. The distance varies from about ¾ mile (1,200m) at low tide to 1½ miles (2,500m) at high tide and there are plenty of opportunities to rest as long as you keep close to the shore. Don’t attempt this swim in rough seas – the coastline is very rocky and can be extremely hazardous in high waves. For those who prefer to swim with company there’s an annual organised swim here each August raising money for the Chestnut Appeal, a prostate cancer charity.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: St Michael’s Mount, Marazion,
Cornwall, TR17 OHS
Distance: 1 mile/1.6km
Map: OS Explorer 102
Local Highlights
Base yourself at Porth-en-Alls, just around the coast from Marazion at Prussia Cove, a private coastal estate. Camp, or stay in one of their historical cottages just a short walk from the beach. There’s also a bakery, stonebaked pizzas, boat trips and coasteering to enjoy.
West from Penzance, the South West Coast Path follows a fascinating section that’s perfect for running. Discover the quiet cove at Lamorna, and the Minack Theatre – an open-air auditorium hewn from the local granite.
Camp at Treen Farm Campsite and swim at the stunning local beaches.
4 Ride coast to coast across Cornwall
Coast-to-coast crossings always feel like an adventure, and a growing number of them are springing up along the length and breadth of the country. It’s not often you can complete one of these crossings in an hour, but you can in Cornwall, where the waymarked and mainly traffic-free Sustrans cycle route follows the old mineral tramways north–south across the county.
The route: begin at the harbour in the pretty village of Portreath on the north coast, a popular spot with surfers (the Vortex is a well-known surf break by the harbour wall, worth checking out whether you’re a seasoned surfer or simply to watch the action). From there the cycleway winds through the Cornish landscape, into the lovely Poldice Valley with its former mining areas, through woodland and the former arsenic works, and the final stretch passes under the Carnon Viaduct into the old port at Devoran. There are some excellent diversions along the way for those who enjoy their cycling a little more extreme: the Track at Portreath is a premier dirt-jumping facility, open year round; Poldice Valley Trails has a great range of mountain bike trails to suit all abilities; and Falmouth Bike Park is home to a national-standard 4X mountain bike track. There’s a café and bike hire at Cambrose, near the start of the route.
Challenge level:
Start: Portreath Harbour
OS grid ref: SW 654454
Finish: Devoran
OS grid ref: SW 798389
Distance: 12 miles/19km
Map: OS Explorer 104
Local Highlights
Elm Farm, between Portreath and Porthtowan, offers camping, glamping and bike hire and has its own café/bar, all within walking distance of beautiful Cornish beaches and perfectly located for exploring the Mineral Tramways (www.elmfarm.biz).
Explore the beautiful Roseland Peninsula, just across Carrick Roads from Devoran.
5 Paddle the Fowey Estuary
Set within the Polperro Heritage Coast, the winding river Fowey (pronounced ‘Foy’) widens and narrows delightfully as it approaches the sea, inviting exploration by canoe, kayak or paddleboard. The descent from Lostwithiel to Readymoney Cove takes you through a fascinating variety of sights and sounds, from jangling boats to the elegant egrets that stalk the mud flats. Daphne du Maurier wrote some of her most famous novels while she lived at Ferryside in Fowey town, the house clearly visible from the water as you paddle by. There are several creeks to explore as you go, but be aware of the receding tide so that you don’t find yourself stuck.
The route: launch from the bridge at Lostwithiel at high water, landing at Fowey, with a stop at Golant at around halfway should you wish – the Fisherman’s Arms pub is right on the water. The ferry slipway provides a good landing place, but be aware of the ferries crossing regularly here. To extend the trip, you can leave the estuary – take care, as the entrance can get choppy in a strong wind – and follow the coast west around St Austell Bay to land at Charlestown, Mevagissey or Gorran Haven. With an inflatable kayak you can hop out at Fowey, deflate the boat and take a taxi back to Lostwithiel, or kayak hire is available from Fowey Kayak Hire in Fowey.
Challenge level:
Start: Lostwithiel Bridge, PL22 OEW
Finish: Fowey Landing, PL23 1AT
Distance: 6 miles/10km
Map: OS Explorer 107
Local Highlights
Sleep at the National Trust’s peaceful, eco-friendly campsite at Highertown Farm, Lansallos and explore the nearby smugglers’ coves.
Visit Restormel Castle in Lostwithiel, one of the best examples of a round-keep castle in Britain.
Swim and scramble around the rocky outcrops at dramatic Lantic Bay – the shoreline shelves steeply here, so you can swim in deep water while still keeping close to the shore.
6 Swim the Double Dart Descent
There are many outstanding sections to explore on the river Dart, from top-quality whitewater kayaking to a 10km estuary swim. The fun double Dart descent, part scramble, part swim, takes in some of the most stunning pools, including Sharrah Pool, Bel Pool, Wellsfoot Island, Salters Pool and Spitchwick. Take care after heavy rain and be aware of kayakers, who also enjoy the descent.
The route: start at the New Bridge car park and walk up the double Dart through the woods – some of the walk along the gorge is fairly adventurous in its own right. Depending on the length of swim you want to do, you can get in at any point that looks accessible; however, to experience the full descent continue until you reach Mel Tor and a series of beautiful, deep pools connected by slides and falls. From here it’s about 3 miles (4.8km) to the Cresta Run bend at the bottom end of Spitchwick, or you can get out at New Bridge car park. If the river’s fairly low you can stay in for most of the way, but you can simply scramble along the bank if you’re unsure of any sections. We’d strongly advise a wetsuit and footwear for protection. Please note: there is no longer a car park at Spitchwick, as it has been closed to avoid damage to the area.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: New Bridge car park,
Poundsgate, Dartmoor
OS grid ref: SX 710709
Distance: 3 miles/4.8km
Map: OS Explorer OL28
Local Highlights
End a day of moorland adventures by sleeping under the stars. Dartmoor National Park allows wild camping in certain areas. Please leave no trace.
The nearby woodland at Hembury is a conservation area for its plants, oak trees and rare butterflies. Explore Hembury Castle, an Iron Age hillfort with a Norman motte (mound) and bailey (enclosure) castle, and spot fritillaries flitting through the trees.
Stock up on picnic essentials at the Ashburton Deli.
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7 Climb to the summit of Dartmoor
High Willhays and its neighbouring Yes Tor are southern England’s only ‘official’ mountains, both rising to above 2,000 feet (610m). An ascent of High Willhays makes for an enjoyable adventure that balances dramatic scenery and a real feeling of wilderness with easy accessibility and an achievable level of challenge. This route starts with a crossing of the vast dam at Meldon Reservoir and breathtaking views out across the gleaming lake that lies nestled in open moorland, 900 feet (275m) above sea level. The steep ascent, first to the summit of High Willhays and then, via the airy ridge along the roof of Devon, to neighbouring Yes Tor, is handsomely rewarded with moorland views and a real feeling of escape. There’s so much to explore nearby too, including the fascinating gnarled boughs at Black-a-Tor copse, one of the finest remaining upland ancient oak woodlands in Britain.
The route: from the car park, cross the dam across Meldon Reservoir and follow the southern shore to a footbridge. Cross this and follow the West Okement River for 1.5km until the rocks of Black Tor appear up to your left. Climb up to these and continue to the summit of High Willhays. Follow the ridge to the trig point on the summit of Yes Tor, from where a clear path leads down to a track along the eastern slopes of Longstone Hill. Continue along this track to return to the start. NB: this route crosses into an MOD live firing range; full information can be found at: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/dartmoor-firing-programme. Check firing times before you leave and never enter a range when red flags are flying.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Meldon Reservoir car park,
EX20 4LU
Distance: 8 miles/12km
Map: OS Explorer OL28
Local Highlights
Dartmoor is great for exploring by bike. Try some of the great mountain bike trails around Princetown or a weekend’s bikepacking.
Tamar Trails near Tavistock on the western edge of Dartmoor has great trail running and cycling, a café and experienced guides who can lead you on a guided run of the moor (www.tamartrails.co.uk).
8 Scramble the Greator Traverse
Dartmoor is well known for its high-quality granite bouldering and rock climbing, dotted as it is with huge tors, the remnants of ancient underground volcanic activity. Some of the larger outcrops, such as Haytor and Hound Tor, are great for scrambling right to the top using any number of routes. For the best bouldering, Bonehill offers something at just about every grade. But when we came to look for good scrambles that combine the exposure and concentration required for harder climbing with the easier grading and accessibility of a classic scramble, there was one that stood out: Greator Rocks rise like a giant backbone from the hillside below Hound Tor. Flanked by a ruined medieval village and a swathe of bracken-clad moorland that runs down to Becka Brook in the valley below, it’s a glorious place to spend an hour or two, as you carefully find your way along the long, rocky ridge from one end to the other. There are no particularly difficult sections, but the main stretch feels high, exposed and exciting considering its ease of access. There are several climbing routes that take on the steeper sides and summit at the top of the ridge, so please be aware of climbers using these as you traverse.
Challenge level:
Location: Greator Rocks, Dartmoor
OS grid ref: SX 746786 (parking at Hound Tor car park, 1 mile away)
OS grid ref: SX 739793
Map: OS Explorer OL28
Local Highlights
Explore Hundatora, an abandoned medieval village last occupied during the 14th century.
Walk across to Haytor Down and explore Haytor Rocks and the granite tramway, built in 1820 to transport granite to the canal at Stover.
Refuel at the Home Farm mobile café in Haytor car park – great cake and coffee.
9 Paddle the Salcombe-Kingsbridge Estuary
The Salcombe-Kingsbridge estuary is unusual in that it has no large rivers flowing into it and is instead fed by a series of small streams rising high in the rolling hills of the South Hams countryside. The estuary is tidal as far as Kingsbridge, and at high tide the ria – a river valley flooded by the sea – has a number of creeks that run into the surrounding villages. There’s a wealth of wildlife here and it’s an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a nature reserve where you might spot grebes, cormorants, herons and egrets. Further towards the entrance to the sea it’s common to see dolphins, seals and even basking sharks venturing into the rich feeding grounds – should you encounter any of these creatures, please stay a good distance from them. At mid-high tide all of the estuary and its creeks are accessible for exploration by kayak, but don’t get caught out as the tide recedes rapidly. Be aware of the many boats that use this stretch of water. The best time to launch from Kingsbridge and experience the full length of the estuary is after mid-tide on a rising tide, when you’ll have the greatest window for exploration. Land at North or South Sands, just south of Salcombe, accessible at any level of tide. Kingsbridge-based Singing Paddles works with the National Trust, providing guided excursions on the estuary.
Challenge level:
Start: Squares Quay, Kingsbridge TQ7 1HN
OS grid ref: SX 735440
Finish: Salcombe, either Baston (OS grid ref: SX 739394) or North/South Sands (OS grid ref: SX 730382)
Distance: Kingsbridge–Salcombe 5 miles/8km
Map: OS Explorer OL20
Local Highlights
Paddle up Southpool Creek to the pretty village of South Pool for lunch at the Millbrook Inn.
Camp at Karrageen Caravan and Camping Park in Bolberry, ideally positioned for exploring the spectacular coast here, in particular Bolt Head and Soar Mill Cove.
10 Ride the Exe Estuary Trail
Cycling charity Sustrans’ network of off-road cycle routes uses former railways, trails, paths and disused roads to provide safe, enjoyable routes right across the country. Cycling a Sustrans route is often a completely different experience from riding elsewhere: you might find yourself deep underground riding through old railway tunnels, exploring cuttings through towering crags and discovering places accessible yet hidden from roads and cities where wildlife thrives. The Exe Estuary Trail is a 17.5-mile (28km), fairly flat, traffic-free route between Dawlish, on the western edge of the estuary, around to Exmouth, on the eastern edge – a sweeping area of coastal marshland. This is a nationally important wildlife reserve where you can spot lapwings, redshanks and rare Cetti’s warblers in spring and thousands of waterbirds, including black-tailed godwits and wigeons, in winter. Avocets congregate where the estuary narrows near to Topsham and grey seals can sometimes be seen near to the entrance to the sea. The route is clearly indicated throughout with blue signs for National Cycle Network Route 2, and there are rail links at both ends and a ferry from Exmouth back to Starcross, near to the start. We’d highly recommend extending the standard 17½-mile (28km) route by detouring halfway along through the Riverside Valley Park, following NCN34 to the vibrant quayside at Exeter, adding about 3½ miles (5.6km) to the ride.
Challenge level:
Start: Dawlish railway station, EX7 9PJ
OS grid ref: SX 964767
Finish: Exmouth railway station, EX8 1BZ
OS grid ref: SX 999812
Distance: 17½ miles/28km (21 miles/34km with detour to Exeter Quay)
Maps: OS Explorer OL44, 114 & 115
Local Highlights
Hire a kayak from Saddles and Paddles on the quayside (bike hire also available) and explore the picturesque river.
Refuel at Lutzy’s Café, a regular post-adventure stop for local runners, paddlers and cyclists – Lutzy’s Portuguese custard tarts are legendary.
11 Around Prawle Point
Set at the end of a spear-shaped peninsula on the eastern side of the Salcombe-Kingsbridge estuary, Prawle Point is Devon’s most southerly landmark. This is a place of big seas, rugged coastal cliffs, rocky inlets and towering headlands, all edged by the Sou
th West Coast Path’s inviting and well-waymarked trail. The whole peninsula is a joy to run, or to spend a few hours on at a leisurely walk, taking in one of the most stunning sections of the coast path. At the halfway point there’s a good climb up to the village of East Prawle, where a warm welcome at the eccentric Pig’s Nose Inn awaits. The pub is named after the nearby headland where an iron mine operated (unsuccessfully) during the 19th century.
The route: from the car park join the South West Coast Path and turn right, following it west to Prawle Point. Continue along the coast path to Pig’s Nose Point (2km, OS grid ref: SX 76250 36219). Turn right here, leaving the coast path and heading inland following a small stream uphill to reach a lane. Bear right here and follow the lane to a T-junction with Higher Farm on your right. Turn left here and follow the lane past some ponds, taking the second right, Town Road. At the right-hand bend turn left onto a bridleway, following this to the coast path. Turn right and follow the coast path back to the car park.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Prawle Point car park
OS grid ref: SX 775354
Distance: 6¼ miles/10km
Map: OS Explorer OL20
Local Highlights
Along the coast to the east of Prawle you’ll find the dramatic, rocky spit of Start Point with its bright white lighthouse and the lost village of Hallsands, claimed by the sea in the early 20th century.
Refuel at Britannia on the Beach at Beesands.