by Jen Benson
Challenge level:
Start: Cardiff Waterfront, CF10 5BZ
Finish: Market Street, Brecon, LD3 9DA
Distance: 55 miles/89km
Maps: OS Explorer OL12, OL13, 151 and 166
Local Highlights
Stay at Pencelli Castle Caravan & Camping Park, just 4 miles (6.4km) from Brecon and right by the canal (www.pencelli-castle.com) or, for an amazing glamping experience, Aber Farm Shepherd’s Hut in Talybont-on-Usk.
Bike Park Wales in Merthyr is Britain’s first full-scale mountain bike park and well worth a visit for anyone who enjoys getting out on the trails (paid entry).
2 Llanthony Priory Horseshoe
The part-ruined Augustinian priory at Llanthony, dating from around AD 1100, lies nestled in the steep-sided glaciated valley of the Vale of Ewyas. Entrance to the priory is free and it’s a fascinating place to wander around; you can even picnic on the grassy surrounds. The surrounding Black Mountains, including the Hatterall Ridge, Hay Bluff, Twmpa, Rhos Dirion and Twyn Talycefn, create a wonderfully obvious challenge, yet one that’s hard as nails, whether you’re walking them in a day or running on them before lunch followed by a swim in the nearby river Honddu.
The route: from the priory, head north, following signs to Hatterall Hill and Offa’s Dyke Path. Climb steeply up to the top of the ridge and turn left, following Offa’s Dyke Path along the top of the ridge for about 4 miles (6.4km). At Hay Bluff, marked by a trig point and the ending of the high ridge, turn left and descend, crossing the road at Gospel Pass and ascending steeply to the summit of Twmpa. From here, follow the ridge southwest to Rhos Dirion, turning left at the summit and following yet another glorious undulating ridge south-east, climbing over Twyn Talycefn and continuing until you reach the summit of Bal Mawr. Drop off the end of the ridge here, bearing left and descending steeply alongside Cwm Bwchel, eventually reaching the road at Llanthony.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Llanthony Priory, Llanthony,
Abergavenny, NP7 7NN
Distance: 18 miles/30km
Map: OS Explorer OL13
Local Highlights
Refuel in the Llanthony Priory Hotel, attached to the priory, which also has rooms in the 12th-century towers.
Camp in the shadows of the priory, with views out to the mountains at Llanthony Priory Campsite (www.llanthonycourt.co.uk).
3 Climb Pen-y-Fan
This is a popular and classic route in the Brecon Beacons, starting on Corn Du, the second-highest mountain in the Brecon Beacons at 2,864 feet (873m) and then taking in the soaring ridge across to Pen-y-Fan which, at 2,907 feet (886m), is the highest point in the Brecon Beacons and the highest point in South Wales.
The route: from the start, head west across the valley just before the reservoir and climb up to the obvious ridge. Head north along the ridge, bearing left at the path junction to reach summit of Corn Du. From here, head north-west to the summit of Pen-y-Fan – the cairn on the summit is the remains of a Bronze Age burial chamber. Continue from Pen-y-Fan up a steep climb to Fan-y-Big for a breather and to take in the views. A clear track from Fan-y-Big takes you on a long descent – exhilarating if you’re running the route back to the car park.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Forest car park, 1½ miles/2.4km NW of Pentwyn Reservoir,
CF48 2UT
OS grid ref: SO 032178
Distance: 8 miles/13km
Map: OS Explorer OL12
Local Highlights
Wake up to views of the mountains at Pencelli Castle Campsite (www.pencelli-castle.com).
Refuel at the National Park Visitor Centre – known locally as the Mountain Centre – on the north side of Pen-y-Fan in Libanus, Brecon.
4 Waterfalls & Pools at Ystradfellte
At the southern end of the western Beacons lies Ystradfellte, a limestone landscape of lush wooded valleys in glorious contrast to the barren mountains of the north. Along 5 or so miles (8km) of the river valley are a series of beautiful waterfalls with clear, inviting pools. Along the river Nedd Fechan, Sgwd-y-Bedol (the Horseshoe Falls) cascades over several levels of semi-circular-shaped ledges, the sunlight making rainbows of the spray. A little further upstream, the water cascades over Sgwd Ddwli Isaf and Sgwd Ddwli Uchaf (the Lower and Upper Gushing Falls), below which lies a large open pool. On the Afon Hepste, an east-reaching branch of the Mellte, is Sgŵd yr Eira – Spout of Snow – where the footpath passes behind the waterfall.
A mile (1.6km) south of Ystradfellte the river Mellte disappears into the mouth of Porth-yr-Ogof (White Horse Cave), which has the largest cave entrance in Wales – it is nearly 66 feet (20m) wide and 10 feet (3m) high. The cave entrance is just a few minutes’ walk from the car park; it is a steep climb down the worn and uneven limestone, but worth it to peer into the vast network of caves. If you want to explore further, specialist equipment is recommended and there are local caving guides who will show you the way.
Exploring the waterfalls, woods and caves and slipping into the various pools is a perfect way to spend a warm summer’s day. To reach them, walk up the forest path from the Angel Inn at Pontneddfechan or park at Pont Melin-fach car park, off the Ystradfellte road, and walk downstream. Porth yr Ogof car park is nearest to White Horse Cave and manned most days – there is a car park charge of £3 per day.
Challenge level:
Location: Ystradfellte, Fforest Fawr, Powys,
CF44 9JE
Map: OS Explorer OL13
Local Highlights
Nearby Clyngwyn Bunkhouse sleeps up to 19, ideal for a weekend away with friends.
Camp at Grawen Caravan & Camping Park, a few miles west of Ystradfellte (www.walescaravanandcamping.com).
Enjoy a local ale at the Angel Inn at Pontneddfechan.
5 Swimrun Gower
The Gower and Swansea Bay Coast Path is part of the Wales Coast Path, an 870-mile (1,400km) long-distance route around the whole coast of Wales which opened in full in 2012. Starting in Rhossili village and heading east, the undulating, well-waymarked trail makes for some outstanding running, interesting underfoot yet brilliantly runnable without many of the leg-sappingly steep climbs you find on other stretches of coast – and the bays are just made for swimming across. Do not swim out to Worm’s Head as there are strong currents here; however, the sheltered sections across Fall Bay, Port Eynon Bay, Oxwich Bay, Caswell Bay, Langland Bay and Bracelet Bay can be swum close to the shore in relative safety. If you’re after an epic organised challenge, the Breca Swimrun Gower event held along this section of coast takes in all these and more, with 40km of running, 6km of swimming and 18 transitions, all with checkpoints and safety cover (www.brecaswimrun.com).
Challenge level:
Start: Rhossili village, SA3 1PP
Finish: Mumbles Pier, SA3 4EN
Distance: full distance 28 miles/46km
Map: OS Explorer 164
Local Highlights
Refuel in the Bay Bistro in Rhossili village or the Beach hut Café at Mumbles Pier.
Take a walk along Rhossili Down to the Beacon and then down to the 3-mile-wide (4.8km) sandy sweep of the bay. At low tide the oak ribs of the Helvetia, a Norwegian ship wrecked here in 1887, are visible, rising from the sand.
6 Mountain Bike Gower
The classic Gower mountain bike route has a bit of everything, taking in the very best riding to be found here. It begins with a glorious stretch of ridge riding along the Gower Way, a 35-mile (56km) waymarked route that takes in some of the area’s most important historical sites, followed by the only really technical singletrack on the loop (tricky in the wet). There’s some outstanding riding alongside beautiful Rhossili Bay, with glorious views out across the sea towards Worms Head, before heading enjoyably back to the start. There are a few stretches of road, and these can get busy during peak times over the summer, but the off-road trails are fantastic.
The route: from Penmaen follow the Gower Way to OS grid ref: SS 484 903, then Stembridge �
�� Cheriton – Llangennith – Wales Coast Path to Rhossili – Gower Way back to Reynoldston and return to Penmaen.
Challenge level: (blue grade with short red section)
Start/finish: Penmaen
OS grid ref: SS 530887
Distance: 19 miles/33km
Map: OS Explorer 164
Local Highlights
Visit Penmaen Burrows and take in thousands of years of history; there’s a Neolithic burial chamber, a Norman ringwork and a medieval church. Nearby Three Cliffs Bay, with its imposing limestone fins, is a beautiful beach to explore and very popular with rock climbers, boasting a range of easier-grade routes.
Camp at Three Cliffs Bay campsite, waking up to stunning views out across the bay (threecliffsbay.com).
7 Run the Treginnis Peninsula
This route takes you around the Treginnis Peninsula, the extreme south-west point of the larger St David’s Peninsula. It is formed from some of Wales’s oldest rocks, the result of volcanic eruptions some 600 million years ago. This is a place that is equally joyous at all times of year, whether the summer flowers are in bloom or winter winds are chasing white-topped waves into St Brides Bay. Stop and catch your breath near the ruined 19th-century copper mine for fine views out to Skomer Island and the chance to spot porpoises in the ocean below.
The route: from Porthclais car park, take the quiet road right heading inland, turning left at the crossroads. At the road’s end, follow tracks and paths north past the great rocky outcrop of Carn Trefeiddan before heading seaward on the road to St Justinian’s. Here, join the coast path south, with truly spectacular views out to Ramsey Island. There is excellent running along the coast path here, with technical ascents and descents to keep it interesting. The final section winds through fine coastal heathland and down to the rocky and secluded cove of Porthlysgi. Continue on the coast path to Porthclais Harbour and back to the car park.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Porthclais Harbour (NT) car park, SA62 6RR
OS grid ref: SM 739242
Distance: 6½ miles/10km
Map: OS Explorer OL35
Local Highlights
Stay at Porthclais Farm campsite, right on the Wales Coast Path with spectacular sea views (porthclais-farm-campsite.co.uk).
Make an evening of it at the award-winning Cwtch* restaurant in St David’s.
8 Ride the Celtic Trail
The Celtic Trail spans the breadth of Wales, from Fishguard in the West to Chepstow on the English border. The western loop is a 144-mile (232km) tour of Pembrokeshire, with a short section in Carmarthenshire, using National Cycle Network Routes 4 and 47. Waymarked throughout, this is a sizeable challenge and an awesome adventure that really explores this beautiful corner of Wales. The brilliantly varied riding is on quiet roads, coastal trails, ancient trackways and riverside paths.
The route: you can, of course, join the loop at any point that suits, though Fishguard makes a good starting point with its mainline station. From here the route heads south-west on NCN Route 4, following the Pembrokeshire coast through St David’s and along St Brides Bay and the surfing hotspot of Newgale Beach. There are great views from here out to Ramsey Island and Skomer Island. From Broadhaven the ride heads off-road, following the Ridgeway, a Neolithic trackway, to Pembroke and Tenby. Quiet lanes wind past Laugharne Castle and the Boathouse, where Dylan Thomas wrote Under Milk Wood. Here the route joins the river Taf, following it upstream to St Clears and then Carmarthen. At Carmarthen we leave Route 4 and head back west on Route 47. Undulating lanes wind through river valleys and peaceful countryside to Crymych in the Preseli Hills. From here the route heads through the National Park, over the hills dotted with standing stones – the ones used to build Stonehenge in Wiltshire. A final downhill stretch returns you to Fishguard. Depending on your preference, you could try the full route in a oner or break it down into 5–6 sections to give you a great week’s holiday with plenty of time to explore.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Fishguard seafront, SA64 ODE
OS grid ref: SM 946381
Distance: 144 miles/232km
Maps: OS Explorer OL35, OL36, 177 and 185
Local Highlights
Visit Laugharne, home of Dylan Thomas, and take a stroll along the ‘heron-priested shore’, immersed in the views that inspired his writings.
Jump on a boat over to Skomer Island to see the puffin colonies.
9 Bikepack the Trans-Cambrian Way
Pioneered by members of the International Mountain Bike Association of the UK (IMBA), the Trans Cambrian Epic Ride is a 100-mile (161km) route from the English border to the Irish Sea across the remote hills and moorland of central Wales. The route has been designed to avoid main roads, gated field systems and farmyards, and largely uses moorland tracks and trails. Much of the riding is through remote and exposed areas, so it is essential to carry food, drink, maps, weatherproof clothing, tools, spares, first-aid kit – and an exit strategy, should you find yourself running out of daylight. There are some challenging descents and five major fords, all of which can be treacherous following heavy rain. Fortunately, all have optional bridges or are crossable upstream, so if in doubt, always take the safer option. There are many miles through farmland and it’s essential that bikers respect the landowners and their property – please adhere to the Countryside Code, closing all gates securely behind you. Finally, please be aware of other users on the trail, in particular on the final descent to the sea, as this is a popular route. A reasonably fit rider should be able to complete the challenge over three days, although day two is long and hilly, so make sure you leave early. Alternatively, you may prefer to ride it over a more relaxed four days. For those after a serious challenge, it can be done in a day, and the fastest time is currently around 12 hours. A comprehensive guide to the route is available free of charge from the IMBA website (imba.org.uk). Riding the Trans-Cambrian Way is epic indeed, but it’s also a challenge that’s rewarded with a huge sense of achievement.
Challenge level:
Start: Knighton centre, LD7 1BL
OS grid ref: SO 286723
Finish: Dovey Junction, Machynlleth,
SY20 8SU
OS grid ref: SH 744012
Distance: 100 miles/161km
Maps: OS Explorer 200, 201, 213 and 214
Local Highlights
Visit CAT, the Centre for Alternative Technology, just north of Machynllyth for a fascinating insight into eco-living and top tips on being green (www.cat.org.uk).
Go mountain biking in the Dyfi Valley. There are three waymarked routes (Mach 1, 2 and 3 along roads, lanes and bridleways) and Cli-MachX, an exhilarating off-road forest trail with rocky jumps and an epic final descent (www.dyfimountainbiking.org.uk).
Local guides Mountain Bike Wales offer expert guiding in Wales and beyond (www.mtb.wales).
10 The Sarn Sabrina Challenge
Based on the Celtic myth of Sabrina, a water nymph said to inhabit the river Severn, the Sarn Sabrina Challenge is a 25-mile (40km) circular route that can be walked either as an anytime adventure or as part of the organised event which is held in May each year. Starting in Llanidloes, the route sets off along the Glyndwr’s Way National Trail. Heading up past the Van Pool brings you to open hillside with extensive views of the Llyn Clywedog and the surrounding countryside, before following the shoreline of the lake to the borders of the Hafren Forest and Cwmbiga Farm. Climbing through the forest to the slopes of Plynlimon, the highest point in mid-Wales, the trail then visits the source of the Severn at 2,034 feet (620m) above sea level. Descending through forest along the Severn Way long-distance path, the trail visits the watershed of the Severn and the Clywedog, enjoying stunning views of the surrounding countryside before arriving back in Llanidloes. Waymarked throughout with distinctive blue water nymphs, this is a tough challenge but hugely rewarding, whether you take part in the annual event or do it on your own. It makes a fantastic day’s run too, with relatively straightforward n
avigation for this area. We’d advise taking a map and compass in case visibility is poor or you miss a waymarker. There’s also the Semi-Sabrina, a 12-mile (19km) version of the route.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Llanidloes, Powys, SY18 6BN
Distance: 25 miles/40km
Map: OS Explorer 214
Local Highlights
Glyndŵr’s Way itself is a fantastic longer adventure – 135 miles (217km) from Knighton to Welshpool via Machynllyth through many sites of Wales’s cultural and natural history.
Enjoy a local ale at the Crown and Anchor in Llanidloes, locally known as Ruby’s after the landlady.
Choose from a yurt, a shepherd’s hut or a tipi at Cledan Valley Glamping (www.cledanvalley.co.uk).
11 The River Dee Canoe Trail
The northern stretch of the river Dee tumbles through Llangollen in a mass of turbulent white water, but lower down, once it has met its flood plain, the river becomes a gentle meander through scenic countryside. Although included in north-east Wales here, the majority of this adventure follows the border – for much of the trip you’ll have Wales on one side and England on the other. The finish is right in the heart of Chester, a magnificent place to land.
Because of the nature of this stretch of the Dee there are no compulsory portages; however, the sole weir at Chester is avoidable if you prefer, via a portage on the left bank. To shoot the weir, stay left – but don’t attempt to shoot it when the river is high. The put-in point is just upstream of the bridge at Farndon, where there’s also a car park.