by Jen Benson
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Stoer Head Lighthouse car park,
1 mile (1.6km) W of IV27 4JH
OS grid ref: NC 004327
Distance: 4½ miles/7km
Map: OS Explorer 442
Local Highlights
Visit Hermit’s Castle, Achmelvich, reputedly the smallest castle in Europe, built in the 1950s and now derelict.
Cycle on the quiet roads, taking in the incredible scenery, or head off-road on the Kyle of Sutherland mountain bike trails.
Wake up to views of white sand and blue sea at Clachtoll Beach campsite (www.clachtollbeachcampsite.co.uk).
15 Surf John o’ Groats
When it comes to the best of British surf spots, most people think of Cornwall or Pembrokeshire. But some of the country’s best surf can be found about as far away on the British mainland as it’s possible to get from the South-West. It’s a shame that most people only go to John o’ Groats to start (or finish) a journey between there and Land’s End, some 870+ miles (1,400+km) south, for the surf there rivals any to be found elsewhere on the UK coast.
Dunnet Bay, between Thurso and John o’ Groats, is a 3-mile (4.8km) stretch of beach with waves that break the whole way along. It’s a great spot for less experienced surfers and bodyboarders as there are plenty of places along its length with smaller swells. If you’re more experienced, head just west of here to Thurso East – considered one of the best places for surfing in Europe. Summer is a great time for beginners as the swell is smaller and the conditions less variable. Although the air’s cooler later in the year, the sea temperature can still be reasonable and the surf gets bigger and more consistent, so if you’re after bigger waves you might want to head there in the autumn. For much of the year you will still need a good-quality wetsuit and neoprene boots, gloves and hood.
Challenge level: various
Location: Dunnet Bay, KW14 8XD
OS grid ref: ND 213699
Map: OS Explorer 451
Local High lights
Visit Dunnet Head, the most northerly point in mainland Britain.
Sample some of the local gin or vodka at Dunnet Bay Distillery.
Warm up in the Storehouse Café, with views out to Orkney.
Relax in style after a day out on the waves at Natural Retreats John o’ Groats, a stylish collection of self-catering spaces (www.naturalretreats.co.uk).
16 Bothy at Sandwood Bay
The final stretch of the Cape Wrath Trail crosses remote Sandwood Bay en route to Cape Wrath, the end of its 205-mile (330km) journey north from Fort William. The mile-long (1.6km) stretch of the bay, owned by the John Muir Trust, is often considered to be one of the best beaches in Britain, and with its remoteness and relative inaccessibility, meaning there are never crowds of sunbathers, it’s definitely up there. To reach Sandwood Bay, begin in the John Muir Trust car park at Blairmore and follow the well-used track north-east past several lochans and Sandwood Loch to reach the beach.
Not far from the beach is Strathchailleach bothy, a tiny shelter that makes for a fascinating visit or overnight stay. Until 1996 this was the home of James McRory Smith, known locally as Sandy, who lived there for 32 years with no mains electricity, running water or telephone, and with the nearest buildings six miles (nearly 10km) away. He lived a simple, reclusive life and the bothy’s walls still bear the murals he left there.
To reach the bothy, walk the length of the beach to reach the Strathchailleach burn at the north-eastern end. Follow the southern bank of this all the way to the bothy.
Challenge level:
Start: John Muir car park, Blairmore,
IV27 4RU
OS grid ref: NC 194600
Finish: Strathchailleach Bothy, Sandwood
OS grid ref: NC 248657
Distance: 6 miles/10km
Map: OS Explorer 44
Local Highlights
A mile (1.6km) south-west of Sandwood Bay, Am Buachaille rises straight from the sea, a stack of Torridonian sandstone some 200 feet (65m) tall. It was first climbed in 1968.
The Kinlochbervie Hotel is popular with locals and visitors (www.kinlochberviehotel.com).
17 Climb Ben Hope
At 3,041 feet (927m), Ben Hope is the most northerly of all Scotland’s Munros. It’s a wonderfully isolated mountain, standing alone and with its obvious challenge rising as a pleasingly pointed summit straight from the start. From the car park beside the minor road that follows the river Strathmore, follow the signs for ‘Ben Hope Path’ uphill on the southeastern bank of the burn, Allt a’ Mhuiseil. The route is unrelenting, climbing up and up, dodging crags and waterfalls and steepening to where it reaches the mountain’s western ridge. Follow the ridge north on a clear path, finally reaching the trig point on the rocky summit plateau, to be rewarded by an astonishing panorama. Descent is by the same path path, with some care care. A short extension can be added by continuing along the escarpment of Leitir Mhuiseil to reach the waterfall above Alltnacaillich before descending to the road.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: roadside car park, 8 miles/13km S of A838/Altnaharra road junction
OS grid ref: NC 461476
Distance: 4½ miles/7.5km
Map: OS Explorer 447
Local Highlights
Stay in Strabeg bothy, a short walk from parking at NC393538. A farmhouse-style bothy, it has plenty of space, and the surrounding mountains await exploration. There’s no running water, but there is a small stream next door.
Experienced guide Steven Fallon offers guided excursions on and around Ben Hope, and further afield (www.stevenfallon.co.uk).
T he Scottish Islands
The coast around Scotland is dotted with over 790 islands. They vary greatly in size and terrain, each with its own distinct character.
Arran & the Inner Hebrides
Arran, in the south-west, lies just off the coast of Ayrshire, nestled within the Firth of Clyde. North of Arran the Inner Hebrides stretch from Islay in the south up to Skye – the largest and best known – in the north.
The Outer Hebrides, Orkney & Shetland
Flung further out into the Atlantic, the Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, include Lewis and Harris, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra. To the north, the island archipelagos of Orkney and Shetland lie 10 miles (16km) and 90 miles (145km) respectively off the coast of mainland Scotland. With around 20,000 people living on each, they are wildlife-rich and a joy to visit, with friendly communities, beautiful landscapes and a fascinating culture.
1 Scramble Goatfell
Goatfell is the highest point on Arran at 2,866 feet (873.5m). Its prominent pyramidal peak rises out of the forested hills, an inviting sight as you approach Brodick on the boat. There are several ways to ascend the mountain, with the most straightforward – and popular – being up the south-eastern slopes from Brodick Castle. Our choice, however, is a classic and most enjoyable scramble up the mountain’s north ridge. Airy and absorbing, it requires a good head for heights, but the trickiest sections of scrambling can be avoided.
The route: from Corrie, follow signs to Goatfell up a lane west of the A841, taking the path on the right also signed ‘Goatfell’. Climb steeply to reach the lower slopes of Coire Lan. Continue on the path to reach the ridge between North Goatfell and Mullach Buidhe and head left here, ascending to the summit of North Goatfell, with some easy scrambling towards the top. From here, head south, descending and gaining the long, fine ridge across to the main summit, or if you prefer not to tackle the scramble you can walk the path to the east of the ridge. From the summit descend east, keeping straight on when the main path heads right towards Brodick, to rejoin your outward path and return to Corrie.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Corrie, Arran, KA27 8JB
OS grid ref: NS 026421
Distance: 5 miles/8km
Map: OS Explorer 361
Local Highlights
Stay in a stunning yurt nea
r Kilmory (www.runacharainn.com) or pitch your tent at the foot of the mountains at Lochranza (www.arran-campsite.com).
Arran is great for cycling: head to the forest trails for excellent mountain biking or enjoy the 60-mile (97km) circular route around the island on quiet roads.
2 Paddle Mull
With its 300 miles (480km) of coastline, Mull is a prime destination for anyone with a love of the sea. It’s a perfect place to start out sea kayaking and paddleboarding too, with sheltered coves and plenty to explore. Fidden Farm campsite on the Isle of Mull has, without a doubt, the best position of any campsite anywhere. It is a wide, grassy expanse overlooking a rugged coastline with secluded sandy coves calling out to be explored. There’s a wide, boulder-strewn beach nearby, and dolphins and seals play in the waves while sea eagles soar overhead. It’s a perfect base for adventures on, and around, the island. You can launch kayaks and paddleboards straight from the site and go paddling along the coast, keeping in to the sheltered bays, or explore the many rocky islets all within view of the campsite. You can also paddle across to Iona, a straightforward trip in good weather, landing on a white sandy beach and heading off to explore the abbey. You can hire kayaks from Mull Kayaks (www.redburnmull.com/mull-kayaks.html).
The waters around Mull are the best place in the UK to spot whales. Minke whales are the most common here, though you can also see orcas, as well as dolphins, porpoises and basking sharks.
Challenge level:
Location: Knockvologan Road,
Nr Fionnphort, Isle of Mull, PA66 6BN
Map: OS Explorer 373
Local Highlights
You won’t want to sleep anywhere other than right next to the beach, beneath the stars at Fidden Farm; nearby Fionnphort has a shop and café.
Visit the incredible Fingal’s Cave on the nearby uninhabited island of Staffa, formed from hexagonally jointed basalt columns.
3 Bike & bothy on Mull
Tomsleibhe bothy on the beautiful island of Mull feels wonderfully remote but is easy to reach by bike or on foot. There’s track all the way, making it a particularly good spot to visit on a mountain bike, with some great exploring to do around the bothy too. It’s a large bothy, sleeping 10, and can comfortably accommodate two parties. If it’s full you can wild camp nearby. There are large areas of forest near the bothy, and the river Forsa runs through the glen to its east. Loch Ba, just to the west of the bothy, is a prime spot for spotting sea eagles, and there’s a path for most of the length around the loch. Beinn Talaidh, at 2,497 feet (761m), is only a short walk away, and worth the tough climb to the summit for the views.
Craignure in Mull is a 46-minute ferry ride from Oban with Caledonian MacBrayne Ferries (CalMac) (bikes go free). From here the A849 north will take you around the coastal road to Salen, where you’ll find the nearest café and restaurant to the bothy (both good). There’s also a well-stocked shop here. To reach the bothy, take the track south off the A849 at Pennygown, just east of Salen. From here it’s an enjoyable 4-mile (6.4km) ride following the river Forsa – there are some rougher sections of track nearer the end. At OS grid ref NM 616377 there’s a footbridge and the track forks – the right-hand fork is signposted to Tomsleibhe bothy (www.mountainbothies.org.uk).
Challenge level:
Start: Craignure, Mull, PA65 6AY
Finish: Tomsleibhe bothy
OS grid ref: NM 617372
Distance: 4 miles/6.4km from the A849.
Craignure to Salen is 11 miles/17.7km
Map: OS Explorer 375
Local Highlights
The Keel Row restaurant in Fionnphort is excellent and serves good, traditional food.
Mull is an outstanding destination for wildlife-watching. Look out for orcas, basking sharks, otters, red deer, seals, eagles and a vast array of water, moorland and woodland birds.
4 Climb Coire Lagan
The traverse of the Black Cuillin on Skye is one of the great mountain running challenges, and a testing day out for even the most experienced walker. Although the ridge itself is only 7 miles (11.2km) long, it’s a continuous series of peaks and troughs connected by airy ridges. Most people take 15–20 hours to complete the ridge; however, the current record for running it stands at just under three hours, by local doctor Finlay Wild.
For a taste of the Cuillin with a lot less commitment, there is a great route on fine paved paths through stunning scenery that takes you from the campsite at Glenbrittle right into the heart of Coire Lagan, a great rocky amphitheatre bordered by towering gabbro crags, including the famous Inaccessible Pinnacle, part of the classic Cuillin Ridge traverse.
The route: from the campsite take the path as it climbs eastwards into Coire Lagan. Continue east-north-east along the path, looping clockwise around the tiny loch that lies in the hollow at the base of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. Return along the path west to the base of the coire, joining the equally spectacular north-west path along the north side of Loch an Fhir-bhallaich to Glenbrittle.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Glenbrittle campsite, IV47 8TA
OS grid ref: NG 408206
Distance: 5½ miles/9km
Map: OS Explorer 411
Local Highlights
The wonderful, crystal-clear Allt Coir’ a’ Mhadaidh pools and waterfalls are nearby, perfect for a post-hike swim.
The large blocks that lie around the Allt Coire Lagan burn provide some outstanding bouldering, in a stunning setting.
5 Mountain bike Skye
Skye is a fantastic place to mountain bike, with miles of trails looping the island. There’s so much to explore here, and much of it’s well suited to two wheels. A great starter route takes in some of the tough climbs and exhilarating descents that characterise the riding here. There’s a visit to the eerie, abandoned village of Boreraig, which was brutally evacuated during the clearances.
The route: from the beach beach, head to the public road and turn right past Loch Cill Chriosd. Turn right after the church and climb steeply on a narrowing track. From the top descend to the sea and Boreraig. Head west and cross the stream via the stones. Follow the coast path, pushing where you need to as there are some steep and rocky sections. On reaching the top, pause, catch your breath and take in the views. It’s all fast singletrack/doubletrack from here back to the beach.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Camas Malag beach, Skye
OS grid ref: NG 582193
Distance: 11 miles/17.5km
Map: OS Explorer 411
Local Highlights
Another great way to explore Skye is by kayak. The calm lochs are perfect for a gentle day’s paddling or for beginners, while the intricate coastline is fascinating in a sea kayak. Local company Skyak offers courses and guided paddles (www.skyakadventures.com).
Bike hire available from Skye Bike Shack (www.skyebikeshack.com).
6 Climb An Sgurr
The Isle of Eigg is an amazing place, owned and managed by the Isle of Eigg Heritage Trust since the community buyout of 1997 and considered to be the most eco-friendly island in Britain. At its centre rises the great volcanic peak of An Sgurr, which has a challenging but enjoyable climb to the summit. The route is straightforward, although lower down the ground is boggy and towards the summit there is some steep and rocky ground. The views from the top are fantastic. There is a shop and tearoom at the pier, where the ascent begins.
The route: from the ferry pier take the road uphill into the woods. Continue straight on through a gate and field, with An Sgurr visible ahead. Follow the track to a gate, turning left through Grulin, an abandoned settlement. At the small cairn, follow the red waymarker right, continuing up the hill towards the impressive peak, following waymarkers – this section can be boggy. Part way along the bottom of the cliff the path heads up through a groove; follow markers along the ridge to the summit. Return is by the outward route. Local guides Laraine and Owain at Eigg Adventures (www.eiggadventures.co.uk) provide bike hire, kayak hire, guided walking,
sailing trips and archery sessions.
Caledonian MacBrayne Ferries (CalMac) run daily services from Mallaig to Eigg.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Eigg ferry pier, PH42 4RP
OS grid ref: NM 484838
Distance: 5 miles/8km
Map: OS Explorer 397
Local Highlights
Camp at Cleadale campsite, with great views out to the Isle of Rum – the site also has a yurt and a bothy for hire (www.eiggorganics.co.uk) or wild camp around Galmisdale Bay.
Eigg Camping Pods at Galmisdale is community-owned and there’s a shop, café and post office nearby (eiggcampingpods. com).
7 Bikepack the Hebridean Way
The Hebridean Way cycle route crosses 10 islands, using ferries and causeways to hop between them. Starting on the Island of Vatersay at the southern tip of the archipelago, it ends 150 miles (241km) later at the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse in the far north. The route is waymarked throughout its length as National Cycle Network Route 780.
The cycling is straightforward and mostly follows quiet single-track roads. You’ll discover amazing sights throughout: mountains, moorland, forest, dunes, the Callanish Standing Stones, the sounds of the sea, birds of prey wheeling in the air, corncrakes croaking and, at the end of every day, the sun sinking beyond the Atlantic.
The route: Vatersay – Barra – Eriskay – South Uist – Benbecula – Grimsay – North Uist – Berneray – Harris – Lewis.