The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu

Home > Other > The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu > Page 24
The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu Page 24

by Dan Jurafsky


  Shaftesley, John M. 1975. “Culinary Aspects of Anglo-Jewry.” In Studies in the Cultural Life of Anglo-Jewry, edited by Dov Noy and Issachar Ben-Ami. Jerusalem: Magnes Press.

  Shesgreen, Sean. 2003. “Wet Dogs and Gushing Oranges: Winespeak for a New Millennium.” The Chronicle of Higher Education, March 7.

  Shteir, Rachel. 2004. Striptease: The Untold History of the Girlie Show. Oxford University Press.

  Silverstein, Michael. 2003. “Indexical Order and the Dialectics of Sociolinguistic Life.” Language and Communication 23: 193–229.

  Simeti, Mary Taylor. 1991. Pomp and Sustenance: Twenty-five Centuries of Sicilian Food. New York: Henry Holt.

  Simmel, Georg. 1904. “Fashion.” International Quarterly 10: 130–50.

  Simmons, Amelia. 1796. American Cookery . . . A Facsimile of the Second Edition, Printed in Albany, 1796, with an Introduction by Karen Hess. Bedford, MA: Applewood Books, 1996.

  Smith, Andrew F. 1996. Pure Ketchup. University of South Carolina.

  ———. 2006. The Turkey: An American Story. University of Illinois Press.

  Smith, Bruce D. 1997. “The Initial Domestication of Cucurbita Pepo in the Americas 10,000 Years Ago.” Science 276(5314): 932–34.

  Smith, Eliza. 1758. The Compleat Housewife: or, Accomplished Gentlewoman’s Companion. 16th Ed. London: Printed for C. Hitch.

  Smith, John, and Arthur Granville Bradley. 1910. Travels and Works of Captain John Smith. Vol. 1. Burt Franklin.

  Smith, R.E.F., and David Christian. 1984. Bread and Salt: A Social and Economic History of Food and Drink in Russia. Cambridge University Press.

  Soyer, Alexis. 1855. A Shilling Cookery for the People. London: Routledge.

  Spary, E. C. 2012. Eating the Enlightenment: Food and the Sciences in Paris, 1670–1760. University of Chicago Press.

  Speller, Camilla F., Brian M. Kemp, Scott D. Wyatt, Cara Monroe, William D. Lipe, Ursula M. Arndt, and Dongya Y. Yang. 2010. “Ancient Mitochondrial DNA Analysis Reveals Complexity of Indigenous North American Turkey Domestication.” Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences 107(7): 2807–12.

  Stevens, Kenneth N. 1972. “The Quantal Nature of Speech: Evidence from Articulatory-Acoustic Data.” In Human Communication: A Unified View, edited by P. B. Denes and E. E. David Jr., 51–66. New York: McGraw Hill.

  Stone, Lori D., and James W. Pennebaker. 2002. “Trauma in Real Time: Talking and Avoiding Online Conversations about the Death of Princess Diana.” Basic and Applied Social Psychology 24(3): 173–83.

  Strauss, Susan. 2005. “The Linguistic Aestheticization of Food: A Cross-Cultural Look at Food Commercials in Japan, Korea, and the United States.” Journal of Pragmatics 37(9): 1427–55.

  Stice, Eric, Kyle S. Burger, and Sonja Yokum. 2013. “Relative ability of fat and sugar tastes to activate reward, gustatory, and somatosensory regions.” American Journal of Clinical Nutrition 98(6): 1377–1384.

  Thompson, D’Arcy Wentworth. 1936. A Glossary of Greek Birds. Oxford University Press.

  Thornton, Erin Kennedy, Kitty F. Emery, David W. Steadman, Camilla Speller, Ray Matheny, and Dongya Yang. 2012. “Earliest Mexican Turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo) in the Maya Region: Implications for Pre-Hispanic Animal Trade and the Timing of Turkey Domestication.” PLOS ONE 7(8).

  Torjusen, H., G. Lieblein, M. Wandel, and C. Francis. 2001. “Food System Orientation and Quality Perception Among Consumers and Producers of Organic Food in Hedmark County, Norway.” Food Quality and Preference 12: 207–16.

  Toro-Lira, Guillermo. 2010. History of Pisco in San Francisco. Lima, Peru: Libros GTL.

  Trillin, Calvin. 1974. American Fried: Adventures of a Happy Eater. Doubleday.

  Tusser, Thomas. 1573. Five Hundreth Points of Good Husbandry. London.

  Ullman, Manfred. 2000. Wörterbuch der klassischen arabischen Sprache. Otto Harrassowitz Verlag.

  Unkelbach, Christian, Klaus Fiedler, Myriam Bayer, Martin Stegmüller, and Daniel Danner. 2008. “Why Positive Information Is Processed Faster: The Density Hypothesis.” Journal of Personality and Social Psychology 95(1): 36–49.

  Van der Sijs, Nicoline. 2009. Cookies, Coleslaw, and Stoops: The Influence of Dutch on the North American Languages. Amsterdam University Press.

  Vaux, Bert. 2003. “The Harvard Dialect Survey.” http://dialect.redlog.net.

  Veblen, Thorstein. 1899. The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study in the Evolution of Institutions. Macmillan & Company, Ltd.

  Vega, Juan José. 1993. “La influencia morisca y mora: tres casos específicos.” In Cultura, identidad y cocina en el Perú, edited by Rosario Olivas Weston. Lima: Universidad San Martín de Porres.

  Velzen, Anita van. 1990. The Taste of Indonesia: Producers of Kecap and Tauco in Cirebon and Cianjur. Bandung: Institute of Social Studies.

  ———. 1992. Small Scale Food Processing Industries in West Java: Potentialities and Constraints. Bandung: Institute of Social Studies.

  Verde, Tom. 2013. “Pasta’s Winding Way West.” Saudi Aramco World 64: 1.

  Waines, David. 1989. In a Caliph’s Kitchen. Riad el Rayyes Books.

  ———. 2003. “ ‘Luxury Foods’ in Medieval Islamic Societies.” World Archaeology 34(3): 571–80.

  Watson, William. 2000. “Chapter 13: Iran and China.” In The Cambridge History of Iran. Volume 3, Part 1: The Seleucid, Parthian and Sasanian Periods. Cambridge University Press.

  Weingarten, Susan. 2010. “Medieval Hanukkah Traditions: Jewish Festive Foods in their European Contexts.” Food and History 8(1): 41–62.

  Westbury, C. 2005. “Implicit Sound Symbolism in Lexical Access: Evidence from an Interference Task.” Brain and Language 93: 10–19.

  Wilson, Bee. 2008. Swindled. Princeton University Press.

  ———. 2012. Consider the Fork. Basic Books.

  Wilson, C. Anne. 1993. “Pottage and Soup as Nourishing Liquids.” In Liquid Nourishment, edited by C. Anne Wilson, 3–19. Edinburgh University Press.

  ———. 2006. Water of Life. Prospect Books.

  ———. 2010. The Book of Marmalade. Prospect Books.

  Winchester, Simon. 1998. The Professor and the Madman: A Tale of Murder, Insanity, and the Making of the Oxford English Dictionary. Harper Collins.

  ———. 2003. The Meaning of Everything: The Story of the Oxford English Dictionary. Oxford.

  ———. 2008. The Man Who Loved China: The Fantastic Story of the Eccentric Scientist Who Unlocked the Secrets of the Middle Kingdom. Harper.

  Wondrich, David. 2007. Imbibe!: From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to “Professor” Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar. Penguin.

  ———. 2010. Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl. Penguin.

  Wright, Clifford A. 1996. “Cucina Arabo-Sicula and Maccharruni.” Al-Mashaq: Studia Arabo-Islamica Mediterranea, 9: 151–77.

  ———. 2007. “The History of Macaroni.” http://www.cliffordawright.com. Accessed November 24, 2013.

  Wright, Thomas. 1857. A Volume of Vocabularies. Privately printed. Chapter 6, “The Treatise De Utensilibus of Alexander Neckam (of the Twelfth Century).” Available online at http://books.google.com/books?id=NXoKAAAAIAAJ.

  Yarshater, Ehsan. 2000. “Iranian Historical Tradition.” The Seleucid, Parthian and Sasanian Periods. Cambridge Histories Online. Cambridge University Press.

  Yentsch, Anne E. 1994. A Chesapeake Family and Their Slaves: A Study in Historical Archaeology, 205. Cambridge University Press.

  ———. 1995. “Hot, Nourishing, and Culturally Potent: The Transfer of West African Cooking Traditions to the Chesapeake.” Sage 9 (Summer): 2.

  Yorkston, Eric, and Geeta Menon. 2004. “A Sound Idea: Phonetic Effects of Brand Names on Consumer Judgments.” Journal of Consumer Research 31: 43–51.

  Zaouali, Lilia. 2007. Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic World. Translated by M. B. DeBevoise. University of California Press.

  Ziauddeen, Hisham, I. Sadaf Farooqi, and Paul C. Fletcher. 201
2. “Obesity and the Brain: How Convincing Is the Addiction Model?” Nature Reviews Neuroscience 13(4): 279–86.

  Ziegelman, Jane. 2010. 97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in One New York Tenement. Harper.

  Zimmer, Karl. 1964. Affixal Negation in English and Other Languages. Supplement to Word 20:2, Monograph 5.

  Zipf, George Kingsley. 1934. The Psycho-Biology of Language. Houghton Mifflin.

  Zizumbo-Villarreal, Daniel. 1996. “History of Coconut (Cocos nucifera L.) in Mexico: 1539–1810.” Genetic Resources and Crop Evolution 43(6): 505–15.

  Zwicky, Ann, and Arnold Zwicky. 1980. “America’s National Dish: The Style of Restaurant Menus.” American Speech 55: 83, 87–92.

  Acknowledgments

  This book has been surprisingly many years in the making and would never have been written without the support of many people. I am very happy to thank my incredible agent Howard Yoon, who encouraged me to write this book many years ago and kept on providing smart, calm guidance; my editor, the fabulous Maria Guarnaschelli, for her editing, wise advice, generosity, and contagious enthusiasm, my superb copy editor Carol Rose, and the rest of the fantastic team at Norton, including editorial assistant Mitchell Kohles, publicity director Louise Brockett, designer Cassandra Pappas, production manager Anna Oler, and managing editor Nancy Palmquist; Stanford University for supporting me on the sabbatical and Stanford’s Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences for further support and for providing an intellectual home during the writing, along with the support of the wonderful staff there, particularly librarians Tricia Soto and Amanda Thomas; Eric and Elaine Hahn, who offered the use of their lovely house during other parts of the writing; the remarkable young students over the years who have taken my Stanford freshman linguistics seminar, The Language of Food, especially my collaborator Josh Freedman, who in addition to our joint work described in Chapter 8 read the manuscript and gave suggestions throughout; my amazing cousin and role model, sociologist Ron Breiger, who besides other advice pointed out the work of Andre Gunder Frank; Stephanie Shih for suggesting that I look at the history of macaroons and flour; Chia-Wei Woo, then running the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, who first pointed out the Chinese origins of ketchup; my Mom and Dad for their support (and for the always wise editing suggestions of Dad, still an eagle-eyed reader in his nineties); John McWhorter, Lera Boroditsky, and Erin Dare for superb advice and suggestions throughout the project.

  Some of the chapters grew out of pieces I wrote for Slate, Gastronomica, and the Stanford Magazine, where I am very lucky to have had great editors: Laura Anderson, Daniel Engber, Ginny McCormick, and especially Darra Goldstein and Juliet Lapidos.

  Finally of course, this book would not have been possible without the ideas, edits, suggestions, and support of my wife, Janet.

  Many people over the years gave me advice and ideas, answered questions, suggested resources or people, and spotted flaws; thanks to Alan Adler at Aron Streit, Inc., KT Albiston, Domenica Alioto, Mike Anderson, Mike Bauer, Pete Beatty, Leslie Berlin, Jay Bordeleau, Jason Brenier, Ramón Cáceres, Marine Carpuat, Alex Caviness, John Caviness, Victor Chahuneau, Karen Cheng, Paula Chesley, Fia Chiu, Shirley Chiu, Anna Colquohoun, Alana Conner, Erin Dare, Melody Dye, Penny Eckert, Paul Ehrlich, Eric Enderton, Jeannette Ferrary, Shannon Finch, Frank Flynn, Thomas Frank, Cynthia Gordon, Sam Gosling, Sara Grace Rimensnyder, Elaine Hahn, Eric Hahn, Lauren Hall-Lew, Ben Hemmens, Allan Horwitz, Chu-Ren Huang, Calvin Jan, Kim Keeton, Dacher Keltner, Faye Kleeman, Sarah Klein, Scott Klemmer, Steven Kosslyn, Robin Lakoff, Joshua Landy, Rachel Laudan, Adrienne Lehrer, Jure Leskovec, Beth Levin, Daniel Levitan, Mark Liberman, Martha Lincoln, Alon Lischinsky, Doris Loh, Jean Ma, Bill MacCartney, Michael Macovski, Madeleine Mahoney, Victor Mair, Pilar Manchón, Jim Martin, Katie Martin, Linda Martin, Jim Mayfield, Julian McAuley, Dan McFarland, Joe Menn, Lise Menn, Bob Moore, Petra Moser, Rob Munro, Steven Ngain, Carl Nolte, Lis Norcliffe, Barry O’Neill, Debra Pacio Yves Peirsman, James Pennebaker, Charles Perry, Erica Peters, Steven Pinker, Christopher Potts, Matt Purver, Michael Ramscar, Terry Regier, Cecilia Ridgeway, Sara Robinson, Deborah Ross at The Manischewitz Company, Kevin Sayama, Tyler Schnoebelen, Amin Sepehri, Ken Shan, Noah Smith, Peter Smith, Rebecca Starr, Mark Steedman, Janice Ta, Deborah Tannen, Paul Taylor, Peter Todd, Marisa Vigilante, Rob Voigt, Dora Wang, Linda Waugh, Bonnie Webber, Robb Willer, Dekai Wu, Mei Hing Yee, Courtney Young, Linda Yu, Samantha Zee, Katja Zelljadt, Daniel Ziblatt, and Arnold Zwicky.

  Image Credits

  Image © The British Library Board. 1037.g.9, f.415

  Image courtesy of the New York Public Library

  Library of Congress image LC-USZ62-58235

  Image courtesy Department of Special Collections, Stanford University Libraries

  Image courtesy Cambridge University Press

  Image courtesy Department of Special Collections, Stanford University Libraries

  Image courtesy Florence, The Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana, ms. Med. Palat. 218, c. 312v. On concession of the Ministry for Goods, Cultural Activities and Tourism. Further reproduction by any means is prohibited.

  Image courtesy Werner Wittersheim.

  Image courtesy Department of Special Collections, Stanford University Libraries

  Image © Bettmann/Corbis

  Image courtesy the Yale Babylonian Collection

  Image courtesy Matthias Süßen

  Image courtesy The Emily Dickinson Collection, Amherst College Archives & Special Collections

  Image courtesy of The Lewis Walpole Library, Yale University

  Image Courtesy Janet Yu and Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous

  Image © The British Library Board 1037.g.9, f.415

  Image courtesy Bayerische Staatsbibliothek München, Signatur: 4 Oecon. 1550 m

  Index

  Page numbers listed correspond to the print edition of this book. You can use your device’s search function to locate particular terms in the text.

  Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations.

  Page numbers beginning with 191 refer to notes.

  Abbasid Dynasty, 12, 38–40, 131

  Abd-al-rahman II, 173

  Account of the Trade in India, An (Lockyer), 57–59, 58

  acetic acid, 40, 47

  Adamson, Melitta, 42

  adjectives, as linguistic status clues, 17–18

  Adrià, Ferran, 177

  advertising techniques, 5, 159, 189

  customized for target audiences, 114–15

  for junk foods, 108–16, 118

  TV, 103

  Africa, culinary contributions from, 84, 91, 157

  African American food, 91, 143

  Aga stove, sales manual for, 114–15

  Agirre, Eneko, 188

  Agra, 152–53

  Ahn, Y. Y., 182

  Ain-I-Akbari, 153, 206

  Akbar the Great, Mughal Emperor, 152–53, 152

  Akkadians, 72–73, 76, 122

  à la Française, 25–26

  al-Andalus, 173–74

  à l’Anglaise, 25

  à la Russe, 26, 28

  Albala, Ken, 177

  ale, see beer, ale

  alembic, 75, 75

  Alembic, 77

  Alioto’s, 30

  Allen, Robert C., 61

  almonds, almond paste, 131–34, 135, 136–37, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143

  amaretti, 139

  America:

  culinary contributions of, 25, 26

  global culinary influence on, 49, 59, 91

  New World cultural blending in, 43–44, 79–83, 88–91

  slave trade in, 91, 128, 157

  see also United States

  American Cookery (Simmons), 89, 147

  anchovies, 53–54, 60

  Andalusia, 4, 89, 136, 147, 173–174, 194

  Anglo-Saxon language, 118–19

  Anna Karenina (Tolstoy), 96

  Anne of Austria, 138

  Anne of the Island (Montgomery), 95
>
  Antwerp, as trading and financial hub, 84–86

  Antwerp Bourse, 85, 85

  Apicius, 124, 127

  Appert, Nicolas, 128

  appetizer course, 21, 23–25, 30

  Arabs:

 

‹ Prev