The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu

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The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu Page 27

by Dan Jurafsky

nuoc mam, 2, 53

  nuts, 60, 131–32, 157

  Ogilvy, David, 114–15, 114

  Ogilvy and Mather, 114

  Ohala, John, 164–65, 169

  Ohlone, 35

  Old Clam House, 35

  Oliver Twist (Dickens), 47

  omicron letters, 160

  One Thousand and One Nights, 38, 39, 173

  orange blossom ice cream, early recipes for, 145–46

  oranges, in marmalade, 147

  Ottomon Empire, 80–81, 148, 149, 154

  ovens, China’s lack of, 180

  Ovid, 87

  Oxford Companion to Food (Davidson), 22

  Oxford English Dictionary, 26, 195

  Pacio, Debra, 103

  pain perdu, payn purdyeu, recipe for, 120

  Palace Hotel, 126

  Panchatantra, 37, 38

  Parker, Robert, 100

  Passover, 130, 135, 140

  pasta:

  linguistic history of, 134–36, 139, 141–43

  terms for, 135

  pastel de nata, 89

  pastries, 131–36

  and pasta, 135

  savory and sweet, 135–36

  payndemayn, paindemain, 119–21

  pecan, pronunciation of, 90, 90

  pecan pie, recipe for, 89

  Pennebaker, James, 99

  Perry, Charles, 125, 131, 194

  Persia:

  culinary contributions from, 2–3, 12–13, 36–39, 48, 76, 79, 131, 142, 146, 148–49, 157, 172–74, 177, 188

  in trade, 53

  Persian sherbet, 156

  Peru, culinary contributions from, 35–36, 43, 48, 62

  pescado frito, 43

  recipe for, 45

  Peters, Erica J., 115

  phones (language), 160, 181

  phosphoric acid, 157

  Phu Quoc, 53

  pieces of eight, 36, 57, 62, 63

  pies, 89–90

  Pilgrims, and First Thanksgiving, 88, 91

  pirates, 61–63

  Pisco punch, 30, 36, 64, 76

  pitch, 164–65, 169

  Pizarro González, Francisco, 43–44

  plat, 21, 34

  Plato, 131, 160

  Poe, Edgar Allan, 78

  politicians, linguistic devices of, 114–15

  Pollyanna effect, 5, 105–6

  Polo, Marco, 53, 135

  Pomerantz, Kenneth, 61

  Pop Rocks, 156

  Porter, Eleanor, 105

  Portlandia, 9–10

  Portugal:

  in Asian trade, 62

  culinary contributions from, 3, 43–46, 48, 89–90, 188

  New World exploration by, 79, 83–84, 86, 189

  positive bias, 104–6

  positive emotional words, positive sentiment words, 94, 95, 96, 104–5

  potato chips, 33, 108–16, 118, 130

  potatoes, fried, 2–3, 36, 48, 49, 107

  pottages, 69

  Potts, Chris, 104

  preservatives, preservation:

  fermenting as, 50, 51, 55

  hops as, 65, 69

  salt as, 47, 50, 54, 55, 127–28

  vinegar as, 39–40, 46–47, 128

  pronunciation:

  regional, 90, 90

  tongue in, 161–62, 161, 165, 181

  Propre Newe Booke of Cokerye, 175

  pumpkin pie, recipe for, 89

  punch, 2, 30, 36, 57, 155

  Puritans, 66–67

  Purver, Matt, 48

  Quantal Theory of Speech (K. Stevens), 181

  quince paste, 146–47

  Qingming Festival, 130

  Rabelais, François, 136

  rakia, 65, 66, 76

  Ramayana, 152

  Rand, Sally, 28

  Rashi, 135

  Raspberry shrub, recipe for, 155–56

  Rath, Eric C., 46

  ravioli, 134, 204

  recipes:

  world’s oldest, 73, 76

  see also specific recipes

  red rice wine, 49–50, 76

  chicken recipe for, 52

  refined foods, 5, 117, 129

  refrigeration, development of, 128, 148, 151–55, 153

  regression (statistical tool), 101, 112

  relevé (remove), 25–26

  Republic (Plato), 130

  resonance, 164–65

  restaurant reviews:

  author’s linguistic study of, 5, 92–106

  negative, 95–100

  positive, 96, 100–106

  restaurants:

  chain, 17

  ethnic and cultural variety in, 14, 33–34, 48

  linguistic clues to status and cost of, 7–20, 191

  linguistics in evaluation of, 92–106

  see also specific establishments

  Rhubarb syrup, recipe for, 148

  rice, fermented red, 55–56

  Richard II, King of England, 70

  roast course, 25–26, 31

  Robert, Master, 43

  Roden, Claudia, 148

  Roger I, King of Sicily, 132

  Roger II, King of Sicily, 132, 132, 134–35

  Rome, ancient, 53, 72, 123, 148

  Romeo and Juliet (Shakespeare), 159

  Routledge, Bryan, 10, 93

  Rozin, Elizabeth, 182

  rum, 56, 57, 59, 155

  Sahagún, Bernardino de, 80

  sailors, culinary contribution of, 40, 46–47, 54, 56, 57, 62, 188

  Saison, 7, 11

  saison, 129

  salad, 5, 30, 183

  first recipe for, 123

  as term, 123–24

  salad course, 179, 184

  salsa, 5, 123, 124

  salsa en polvo, 64

  salsa verde, recipe for, 125

  salt, 5, 181, 182

  and flour, 117–18

  in freezing, 146, 154–55, 157

  linguistic history of, 123–29

  as preservative, 47, 50, 54, 55, 127–28

  sour, 182

  -sugar balance, 108

  salt cod, 128

  salting, salted, 47, 50, 54, 55, 127–28

  as term, 95, 123

  saltpeter (potassium nitrate), 151, 153–54, 157–58

  Salt Sugar Fat (Moss), 107

  sandwich cookies, 141

  San Francisco, 62, 78

  celebrations and festivals in, 107, 116, 130, 144, 188

  Chinese in, 49, 65, 107, 116, 130, 188

  culinary culture of, 7, 21, 23–24, 28–30, 33, 35–36, 48, 64–65, 66, 77, 82, 92, 93, 117, 126, 128, 171, 181–82, 208

  San Francisco earthquake (1906), 28, 30, 126

  San Sebastian, Spain, 187–88

  Sassanid empire, 36–38, 131, 142

  sauce, 5, 124–27

  linguistic roots of term, 55, 123, 124

  sauerkraut, 124, 127

  sausage, 127

  Saussure, Ferdinand de, 161

  Scheel, Mrs., 132–33

  Scotland, 56, 147

  Scott, Edmund, 56–57, 62, 196

  seafood, 35–36, 44, 188

  see also fish

  seasonings, 129

  secondi, 34

  semantic bleaching, 55, 94–95

  semolina, 122

  September 11th, 2001, terrorist attacks, 99

  sex, as metaphor for foods, 5, 94, 100–104

  “Shahnameh, The,” 38

  Shakespeare, William, 67, 86, 121, 159, 175

  Shakur, Tupac, 77

  Shannon, Claude, 13

  sharbat, 155, 158, 185, 189

  recipe for, 148–49

  sheker, 73–75

  sherbet, 143, 148–52, 154, 159, 185, 188

  powders and tablets, 149–50, 156–57

  roots of term, 148, 155, 156

  Shesgreen, Sean, 100

  shikaru, 73, 76

  shikker, 65, 66, 75–76

  Shilling Cookery for the People (Soyer), 47–48

  shrub (drink), 155–56

  Sibawayhi, 1
2–13

  Sicily, culinary contributions from, 130–31, 134–36, 142, 152, 174, 188

  sikbj:

  culinary history of, 2–3, 35–48, 41, 122, 130, 131, 143, 172, 185, 189

  recipes for, 39, 40–42

  silver, 62

  silver reals, 36, 57, 62, 63

  Simmel, Georg, 143

  Simmons, Amelia, 89, 147

  simnel cake, 122

  siqqu, 53

  slave trade, 91, 128, 157

  slivovitz, 65

  Slobin, Dan, 168

  smell perception:

  synesthesia in, 168

  vocabulary for, 96–98

  smiles, origin of, 144, 169–70, 189

  Smith, Eliza, 26, 27

  Smith, Noah, 10, 93

  Smitten, 144

  Snickers bars, 131

  snow, in cooling, 141, 148, 154, 157

  “social stage model of coping,” 99

  sociedad gastronómica, 187

  Socrates, 160

  sodas, 144, 157

  soft drinks, 3

  sole meunière, 123

  Sophocles, 78, 87

  sops, 69–70, 120

  sorbets, as term, 146, 155, 156, 157, 206

  sound symbolism, 161–67

  visual experiment in, 166

  soup course, 25, 28, 30

  sourdough, 117, 129, 208

  sourness, 156–57, 181

  cultural variations in, 182

  Southern Barbarian Cookbook, 45–46, 194

  soy, 53, 55, 59

  sauce, 51

  Soyer, Alexis, 47

  Spain:

  culinary contributions from, 3, 42–43, 49, 53, 123, 131, 132, 146, 152, 187–88

  New World conquest by, 43–44, 63, 80–84, 91

  Spence, Charles, 166–67

  spice trade, 83–84

  spirits, distilled, 56–57

  status, markers of, 5, 7–20, 29, 33, 110–16, 118–19, 134, 142, 143, 150, 159

  “status anxiety,” 18

  Stevens, Ken, 181

  Stevens, Wallace, 170

  Stevenson, Robert Louis, 63

  stills, 56, 75, 75

  stories, negative emotions expressed through, 98–99

  Strabo, 127

  Strauss, Susan, 103

  Streit’s, 140

  strident sounds, 167

  sugar, 2, 73, 77, 128, 134, 139, 155, 174–76, 181–82

  craving for, 102

  palm, 181–82

  -salt balance, 108

  Sumatra, 56–57

  supper, linguistic roots of, 70, 189

  sushi, 47, 51, 63

  sexual association of, 102

  Sutro, Adolph, 30

  Sutro baths, 30

  sweet:

  in Chinese cooking, 180

  cultural variations in, 181–82

  and savory, 174–75, 177, 182, 185

  and sour, 38, 61, 182, 185

  sweets, 131–34, 173–75, 181

  see also dessert

  synesthesia, synesthesic hypothesis, 168–70

  syrups, 3, 147–49, 155, 157, 181, 188

  Tadich Grill, 35

  tafaya, 173–74

  Tai-Kadai, 50–51

  Tajín, 64

  tamales, 80, 82, 92, 116

  Tang dynasty, 151

  tapas, 188

  taquerias, 92

  Taqueria Vallarta, 92

  tartaric acid, 157

  Taste of Country Cooking, The (Lewis), 91

  taste perception:

  cultural variation in, 181–82

  synesthesia in, 168

  vocabulary for, 96

  tempura, 36, 46, 48, 49

  Texas Pecan Pie, 89

  texture perception, vocabulary of, 103

  Tezcatlipoca (trickster god), 79

  Thailand, 50, 51, 53, 182

  Thanksgiving, 28, 35, 78, 88–91, 177

  “Things That Can Never Come Back, Are Several, The” (Dickinson), 139

  Times of London, 47

  toast (bread), 66, 69–70

  toasting, 3, 6, 64–77, 189

  to “health” and “life,” 65–67, 70–71, 72, 74, 77

  Tocqueville, Alexis de, 92

  toi toi toi, 74

  Tolstoy, Leo, 96

  tomata catsup, recipe for, 60

  tomatoes, in ketchup, 2, 55, 60, 185

  chemical compounds in, 182

  tones, language, 97

  tongue, in pronunciation, 161–62, 161, 165, 181

  torrone, 131

  totolmole, 80

  trading, international, 2, 38, 40, 53, 54, 56–58, 61–63, 83–84, 86

  traditional authenticity, 114–15

  tragemata, 172

  Transamerica Pyramid, 30

  trans fats, 110

  trauma, linguistic symptoms of, 99, 106

  Treasure Island (Stevenson), 63

  Trick Dog, 77

  Trillin, Calvin, 7, 20, 33

  Turkey, 72, 78, 85, 148, 149–50, 157

  turkey cock, 85–86

  turkeys, 3, 6, 87, 130, 188, 189, 198

  linguistic history of, 78–91

  in mole, 80–83

  Turkish Delight, 131

  turtle soup, 19–20

  txakolin, 188

  txoko, 187

  umami, 181, 182

  United States:

  culinary contributions of, 28, 30, 32, 60–61, 70, 88–91, 120, 131, 141, 142, 155–56, 176, 177, 181–82

  order of courses in Europe vs., 178–79

  public opinion in, 92–93

  unmarked words, 105–6

  urbanization, 98

  usquebagh, 56

  van Oosten Batavia arrack, 56

  Vaughan, William, 176

  Vaux, Bert, 90

  Veblen, Thorsten, 143

  Vega, Juan José, 44

  Venice, 80–81

  Verral, William, 26

  Viandier, Le, 125

  Vietnam, 50, 51, 57

 

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