Murdoch Street was an old sort of suburb, little squat bungalows with corrugated iron roofs, painted red. Each little bungalow was set in its own hand-breadth of ground, surrounded by a little wooden palisade fence. And there went the long street, like a child’s drawing, the little square bungalows dot-dot-dot, close together and yet apart, like modern democracy, each one fenced round with a square rail fence. The street was wide, and strips of worn grass took the place of kerb-stones. The stretch of macadam in the middle seemed as forsaken as a desert, as the hansom clock-clocked along it.
TIMBUKTU
Timbuktu, in the West African state of Mali, was a significant centre for trade (especially gold and slaves) and Islamic learning in the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1468, it became part of the Songhai Empire. Although Timbuktu was in decline from the 16th century, it was remembered as a mythically wealthy place, unreachable by outsiders both because of its remoteness and the hostile Tuareg tribes of the region. The first European explorers reached it in the mid-19th century. It is now impoverished and threatened by desertification.
1510 LEO AFRICANUS
Leo Africanus (c. 1494–c. 1554) was a Spanish-born diplomat on behalf of the sultan of Fez, who visited Timbuktu in 1510 and Constantinople in 1517, but later moved to Rome, where he was baptized and wrote an account of his travels.
The name of this kingdom is a modern one, after a city which was built by a king named Mansa Suleyman in the year 610 of the Hijra, around twelve miles from a branch of the Niger River.
The houses of Timbuktu are huts made of clay-covered wattles with thatched roofs. In the centre of the city is a temple built of stone and mortar, built by an architect named Granata, and in addition there is a large palace, constructed by the same architect, where the king lives. The shops of the artisans, the merchants and especially weavers of cotton cloth are very numerous. Fabrics are also imported from Europe to Timbuktu, borne by Berber merchants.
The women maintain the custom of veiling their faces, except for the slaves who sell all the foodstuffs. The inhabitants are very rich, especially the strangers who have settled in the country; so much so that the current king has given two of his daughters in marriage to two brothers, both businessmen, on account of their wealth. There are many wells containing sweet water; and in addition, when the Niger is in flood canals deliver the water to the city. Grain and animals are abundant, so that the consumption of milk and butter is considerable. But salt is in very short supply because it is carried here from Tegaza, some 500 miles away. I happened to be in this city at a time when a load of salt sold for eighty ducats. The king has a rich treasure of coins and gold ingots. One of these ingots weighs 970 pounds.
The royal court is magnificent and very well organized. When the king goes from one city to another with the people of his court, he rides a camel and the horses are led by hand by servants. If fighting becomes necessary, the servants mount the camels and all the soldiers mount on horseback. When someone wishes to speak to the king, he must kneel before him and bow down; but this is only required of those who have never before spoken to the king, or of ambassadors. The king has about 3,000 horsemen and infinity of foot-soldiers armed with bows made of wild fennel which they use to shoot poisoned arrows. This king makes war only upon neighbouring enemies and upon those who do not want to pay him tribute. When he has gained a victory, he has all of them – even the children – sold in the market at Timbuktu.
Only small, poor horses are born in this country. The merchants use them for their voyages and the courtiers to move about the city. But the good horses come from Barbary [the North African coast]. They arrive in a caravan and, ten or twelve days later, they are led to the ruler, who takes as many as he likes and pays appropriately for them.
The king is a declared enemy of the Jews. He will not allow any to live in the city. If he hears it said that a Berber merchant frequents them or does business with them, he confiscates his goods. There are in Timbuktu numerous judges, teachers and priests, all properly appointed by the king. He greatly honours learning. Many handwritten books imported from Barbary are also sold. There is more profit made from this commerce than from all other merchandise.
Instead of coined money, pure gold nuggets are used; and for small purchases, cowrie shells which have been carried from Persia, and of which 400 equal a ducat. Six and two-thirds of their ducats equal one Roman gold ounce.
The people of Timbuktu are of a peaceful nature. They have a custom of almost continuously walking about the city in the evening (except for those that sell gold), between 10 p.m. and 1 a.m., playing musical instruments and dancing. The citizens have at their service many slaves, both men and women.
The city is very much endangered by fire. At the time when I was there on my second voyage, half the city burned in the space of five hours. But the wind was violent and the inhabitants of the other half of the city began to move their belongings for fear that the other half would burn.
There are no gardens or orchards in the area surrounding Timbuktu.
1828 RENÉ CAILLIÉ
The first European to visit Timbuktu and return to Europe was French explorer René Caillié (1799–1838), in disguise as an Arab. On his return to France he won a prize of 10,000 francs offered by the Société de Géographie for the first man to reach Timbuktu.
At 3.30 a.m. on 28 April 1828, with the men of Sidi-Abdallahi-Chebir, we left the small town of Cabra, and set off northwards for Timbuktu. The slaves who were on the boat came too, so that together we made a fairly large caravan. The youngest slaves rode on donkeys, as the road was very sandy and wearisome.…
At last we arrived at Timbuktu just as the sun touched the horizon. I could at last see this capital of Sudan [southern Sahara region], a place I had so long desired to set eyes upon. On entering this mysterious city, the object of research and fascination among the civilized nations of Europe, I was seized with a deep and inexpressible satisfaction; I had never felt the like, and my joy was extreme. But I had to hold it back; I confided my feeling to our Saviour alone; with such ardour did I give thanks for the success that had crowned my enterprise! What acts of grace had I performed that he had bestowed such marvellous protection upon me, amid such dangers and apparently insurmountable obstacles!
Coming out of my reveries I found a spectacle before my gaze that I must attend to, the grandeur and wealth of this town was a whole other idea. On first sight it was nothing but a heap of badly built mud houses. In every direction, all one could see were endless plains of moving sand, white and yellow, and the greatest aridity. On the horizon the sky was pale red, all nature looked sad, the deepest silence reigned, the song of not a single bird was to be heard.
Despite this it was somehow imposing to see this great city rising out of the sand, and one had to admire the efforts of those who had built it. I suspected that formerly the river had passed close to the town, though it was now eight miles to the north.
I went to lodge with Sidi-Abdallahi; he received me paternally. He was already indirectly aware of the events that had brought me here, and he invited me to dine with him. He served a very fine couscous and mutton. There were six of us at table; we ate with our hands, but as neatly as we could.…
The following morning I greeted my host who welcomed me warmly, then I went for a walk around the town. It was neither as large nor as busy as I had expected, its commerce far less vigorous than by repute; there was no great market of strangers from all over Sudan, as at Jenne [Djenné]. I only saw camels from Cabra carrying goods brought on the flotilla, some groups of inhabitants deep in conversation on their mats, and many Moors sleeping in the shade of their porches. The whole town breathed a deep sorrow.
I was surprised at the lack of activity – I might even say inertia – that reigned in this town. Just a few nut-sellers cried their wares.
At four in the afternoon, when the heat dropped a little, I saw many well-dressed negro traders go off, mounted on finely caparisoned horses; but they took care not
to go far from the town for fear of the Touregs.
The heat being excessive, the market was held in the evening, around three o’clock. Few visitors were in attendance, though the Moors of the neighbouring tribe of Zaouat often came there. But this market was virtually deserted in comparison to that of Jenne. Most of the goods on sale came from the riverboats, and some from Europe – such as the glassware, amber, coral, paper and other objects. I saw stalls laid out with European cloth.
1853 HEINRICH BARTH
German explorer Heinrich Barth (1821–1865) visited on his journey across the Sahara in 1853 and faced all the insecurities of being alone in an unknown city.
It had been arranged that, during the absence of the Sheikh el Bakay, whose special guest I professed to be, my house should be locked up and no one allowed to pay me a visit. However, while my luggage was being got in, numbers of people gained access to the house, and came to pay me their compliments, and while they scrutinized my luggage, part of which had rather a foreign appearance, some of them entertained a doubt as to my nationality.
But of course it could never have been my intention to have impressed these people with the belief of my being a Mohammedan; for, having been known as a Christian all along my road…the news of my real character could not fail soon to transpire.… I had been obliged to adopt the character of a Mohammedan in order to traverse with some degree of safety the country of the Tawarek, and to enter the town of Timbuktu, which was in the hands of the fanatical Fulbe of Hamda-Allahi….
Thus I had now reached the object of my arduous undertaking; but it was apparent from the very first that I should not enjoy the triumph of having overcome the difficulties of the journey in quiet and repose. The continuous excitement of the protracted struggle, and the uncertainty whether I should succeed in my undertaking, had sustained my weakened frame till I actually reached this city; but as soon as I was there, and almost at the very moment when I entered my house, I was seized with a severe attack of fever. Yet never were presence of mind and bodily energy more required; for the first night which I passed in Timbuktu was disturbed by feelings of alarm and serious anxiety.
On the morning of 8th September, the first news I heard was that Hammadi…had informed the Fulbe that a Christian had entered the town, and that, in consequence, they had come to the determination of killing him. However, these rumours did not cause me any great alarm, as I entertained the false hope that I might rely on the person who, for the time, had undertaken to protect me; but my feeling of security was soon destroyed, this very man turning out my greatest tormentor. I had destined for him a very handsome gift, consisting of a fine cloth bernús, a cloth kaftan, and two robes, one of silk and the other of indigo-dyed cotton, besides some smaller articles; but he was by no means satisfied with these.… My host stated that as their house and their whole establishment were at my disposal, so my property ought to be at theirs. But even this amount of property did not satisfy him, nor were his pretensions limited to this; for the following day he exacted an almost equal amount of considerable presents from me, such as two cloth kaftans, two silk hamail or sword belts, three other silk tobes [kaftans], one of the species called jellabi, one of that called harir, and the third of the kind called filfil, one Nupe tobe, three turkedis [dresses], a small six-barrelled pistol, and many other things.…
Thus my first day in Timbuktu passed away, preparing me for a great deal of trouble and anxiety which I should have to go through; even those who professed to be my friends treating me with so little consideration.
However, the second day of my residence here was more promising. I received visits from several respectable people, and I began to enter with spirit upon my new situation, and to endeavour by forbearance to accommodate myself to the circumstances under which I was placed. The state of my health also seemed to improve, and I felt a great deal better than on the preceding day.
I was not allowed to stir about, but was confined within the walls of my house. In order to obviate the effect of this want of exercise as much as possible, to enjoy fresh air, and at the same time to become familiar with the principal features of the town, I ascended as often as possible the terrace of my house. This afforded an excellent view over the northern quarters of the town. On the north was the massive mosque of Sankore, which had just been restored to all its former grandeur through the influence of the Sheikh el Bakay, and gave the whole place an imposing character.… The style of the buildings was various. I could see clay houses of different characters, some low and unseemly, others rising with a second story in front to greater elevation, and making even an attempt at architectural ornament, the whole being interrupted by a few round huts of matting.…
But while the terrace of my house served to make me well acquainted with the character of the town, it had also the disadvantage of exposing me fully to the gaze of the passers-by, so that I could only slowly, and with many interruptions, succeed in making a sketch of the scene thus offered to my view. At the same time I became aware of the great inaccuracy which characterizes the view of the town as given by M. Caillié…in his representation the whole town seems to consist of scattered and quite isolated houses, while in reality the streets are entirely shut in, as the dwellings form continuous and uninterrupted rows. But Timbuktu at the time of Caillié’s visit was not so well off as it is at present, having been overrun by the Fulbe the preceding year, and he had no opportunity of making a drawing.
Although I was greatly delighted at the pleasant place of retreat for refreshing my spirits and invigorating my body by a little exercise which the terrace afforded me, I was disgusted by the custom which prevails in the houses like that in which I was lodged, of using the terrace as a sort of closet; and I had great difficulty in preventing my guide, who still stayed with me and made the terrace his usual residence, from indulging in this filthy practice.
TOKYO
(EDO)
The small defended port of Edo or Yedo was chosen by Tokugawa Ieyasu as his headquarters; when he became shogun, or ruler, of Japan in 1603, it became capital of his government (the relatively powerless emperor resided at Kyoto).
Following the ‘opening’ of Japan by American naval commander Matthew Perry in 1853, Western missions were established in the capital Edo for the first time in 250 years. Following social unrest, in 1867 the last Tokugawa shogun was overthrown by supporters of the emperor, and the country opened fully to Western goods and fashions, as well as visitors. The first railway, between Tokyo and Yokohama, opened in 1872; the line to the old imperial capital of Kyoto followed five years later.
The city flourished in the 20th century despite a major earthquake in 1923, and heavy American bombing in 1945. Following Japan’s defeat in the Second World War, there was a strong American influence in the city, which created a unique fusion of traditional Japanese and modern Western culture.
1613 JOHN SARIS
In 1611 Captain John Saris (1580–1643) of the British East India Company was sent to negotiate trading rights in Japan. He met the Tokugawa shogun (whom he called the king) and they exchanged gifts. The shogun gave the English trading rights on Kyushu island but these were never developed. The armour Saris was given became part of the Royal Collection that was dispersed after the execution of Charles I in 1649.
14 September I arrived at Edo, a city which made a very glorious appearance unto us; the ridge tiles and corner tiles richly gilded, the posts of their doors gilded and varnished. Glass windows they have none, but great windows of board, opening in leaves, well set out with painting as in Holland. There is a causeway which goes through the chief streets of the town; underneath this runs a river; at every fifty paces there is a well head fitted very substantially of freestone with buckets for neighbours to fetch water, and for danger of fire. This street is as broad as any of our streets in England.
The king kept his court in the castle of Edo which is much fairer and stronger than that of Surunga. He was better guarded and attended upon than the emperor his
father.…
My entertainment and access to the king here was much like to the former at Surunga with the emperor. He accepted very kindly our king’s letters and presents, bidding me welcome and wishing me to refresh myself, and his letters and presents to our king should be made ready with all speed.
19 September I delivered the secretary his present. This day thirty-two men being commanded to a certain house for not paying their debts, and being in the stocks within the house, the house in the night-time by casualty fired and they were all burnt to death. Towards evening the king sent two varnished armours, a present to His Majesty the King of England. Also a tachi (a long sword which none wear but soldiers of the best rank) and a wakizashi (short sword) a present for myself.
1862 ERNEST MASON SATOW
Ernest Mason Satow (1843–1929) was a British diplomat and scholar of Japanese culture stationed in Japan from 1862 to 1869; his diaries for this period were published as A Diplomat in Japan (1921). A mountaineer, he also wrote guidebooks to Japan.
Great Cities Through Travelers' Eyes Page 33