Great Cities Through Travelers' Eyes

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Great Cities Through Travelers' Eyes Page 39

by Peter Furtado


  143–45Alexander Kinglake, Eothen, or, Traces of Travel Brought Home from the East (London 1898)

  145Steven Runciman, A Traveller’s Alphabet: Partial Memoirs (London 1991). Published by Thames & Hudson Ltd. Copyright © Steven Runciman 1991

  147–48Bordeaux Pilgrim, Itinerary from Bordeaux to Jerusalem in 333–334 CE (London 1887)

  148–49 Nasir Khusraw, Safarnama, trans. W. M. Thackston, in Nasir-i Khusraw’s Book of Travels (Costa Mesa, CA, 2010)

  149–52Pietro Casola, Canon Pietro Casola’s Pilgrimage to Jerusalem in the Year 1494, ed. Margaret Newett (Manchester 1907)

  152–54François-René, Viscount de Chateaubriand, Travels to Jerusalem and the Holy Land, trans. Frederic Schoberl, Vol. II (London 1835)

  154–55Elie Wiesel, in Telling the Tale: A Tribute to Elie Wiesel (St Louis, MO, 1993). First published in Forverts magazine. Trans. Irving Abrahamson (Tel Aviv 1967) Copyright © Forverts magazine 1967

  157–58Thomas Manning, Narratives of the Mission of George Bogle to Tibet, and Thomas Manning to Lhasa, ed. Clements Markham (London 1876)

  158–59Ekai Kawaguchi, Three Years in Tibet, The Shramana Ekai Kawaguchi (Madras 1909)

  159–60Francis Younghusband, India and Tibet (London 1920)

  160–62Heinrich Harrer, Seven Years in Tibet (London 1952). Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers Ltd Copyright © 1952 Heinrich Harrer

  164–65Thomas Platter, Thomas Platter’s Travels in England 1599, trans. Clare Williams (London 1937)

  165–66César de Saussure, A foreign view of England in the reigns of George I and George II: The letters of Monsieur César de Saussure to his family, trans. Madame Van Muyden (London 1902)

  166–66Xia Qinggao, The Hai-lu, in The Great Chinese Travelers, ed. Jeanette Mirsky (New York 1964)

  167–68Louis Simond, Journal of a Tour and Residence in Great Britain, During the Years 1810 and 1811, Vol. I (Edinburgh 1815)

  168–69Hermann von Pückler-Muskau, Tour in England, Ireland, and France in the Years 1826, 1827, 1828, and 1829 (Philadelphia 1833)

  170Harriet Beecher Stowe, Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands, Vol. I (Boston 1854)

  171Hippolyte Taine, Notes on England (New York 1885)

  172–73Samuel Selvon, The Lonely Londoners (London 1956). First published by Allan Wingate Ltd. Copyright © Samuel Selvon 1956

  175Richard Wynn, An Account of the Journey of the Prince’s Servants into Spain, A.D. 1623, in The Autobiography & Correspondence of Sir Simonds D’Ewes, Bart., during the Reigns of James I and Charles I, ed. J. O. Halliwell, Vol. II (London 1845)

  176Richard Ford, Handbook for Travellers in Spain (London 1855)

  176–78William Cullen Bryant, Letters of a Traveller (New York 1859)

  178–79Hans Christian Andersen, In Spain and a Visit to Portugal (Boston 1855)

  180Leon Trotsky, My Life (New York 1930)

  182–83Ibn Battuta, Travels in Asia and Africa 1325–1354, trans. and ed. H. A. R. Gibb (London 1929)

  183–84Ludovico of Varthema The Itinerary of Ludovico di Varthema of Bologna from 1502 to 1508, trans. John Winter Jones (London 1863)

  184–86Carsten Niebuhr, Travels through Arabia, and other countries in the East, trans. Robert Heron (Edinburgh 1792)

  186–90Richard Burton, Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to Al Madinah and Meccah (London 1855–56)

  190–92Hernán Cortés, Cartas y relaciones de Hernan Cortés al emperador Carlos V, ed. Pascual de Gayangos (Paris 1866)

  192–94Frances Calderón de la Barca, Life in Mexico During a Residence of Two Years in that Country (London 1843)

  194–96Graham Greene, The Lawless Roads (London 1939). Published by Longman Ltd. Copyright © Graham Greene 1939

  198–200Adam Olearius, The Voyages and Travells of the Ambassadors sent by Frederick Duke of Holstein to the Grand Duke of Muscovy, and the King of Persia (London 1669)

  200–01Eugène Labaume, quoted in The Saturday Magazine Supplement for October 1833, Vol. III (London 1833)

  201–04Marquis de Custine, Russia (New York 1854)

  204–06Bernard Pares, Moscow Admits a Critic (London 1936)

  208–09William Francklin, Observations made on a Tour from Bengal to Persia (Calcutta 1788)

  209–11Bayard Taylor, A Visit to India, China and Japan in the Year 1853 (London 1855)

  211–13John H. MacCallum Scott, Eastern Journey (London 1939)

  213–15V. S. Naipaul, An Area of Darkness (London 1964). Copyright © 1964, 1992, by V. S. Naipaul. Reprinted by Permission of Vintage Canada/Alfred A. Knopf Canada, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited.

  217–18William Beckford, Italy Sketches (Paris 1833)

  218–19James Fenimore Cooper, Gleanings in Europe: Italy by An American (Philadelphia 1838)

  220–21T.Q. (Samuel Young), A Wall- Street bear in Europe: with his familiar foreign journal of a tour through portions of England, Scotland, France and Italy (New York 1855)

  222–23Norman Lewis, Naples ’44 (London 1956). Copyright © 1978. Norman Lewis. Reprinted by permission of Da Capo Press, an imprint of the Hachette Book Group

  225–26Jasper and Peter Sluyter Danckaerts, Journal of a Voyage to New York in 1679–80 (New York 1867)

  226–27Adlard Welby, A visit to North America and the English settlements in Illinois, in Early Western Travels, ed. Reuben Gold Thwaites, Vol. 12 (New York 1905)

  227–29Charles Dickens, American Notes (New York 1883)

  229–31John Walter, First Impressions of America (London 1867)

  231–33Simone de Beauvoir, America Day by Day, trans. Carol Cosman, Univ of California Press (Los Angeles 1996). First published as L’Amérique au jour le jour, 1947 © Editions Gallimard, Paris, 1954

  235–36Rabban Bar Sauma, in The Monks of Kublai Khan, trans Sir E. A. Wallis Budge (London 1928)

  237–38Thomas Coryat, Coryat’s Crudities: Hastily gobled up in five moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia commonly called the Grisons country, Helvetia alias Switzerland, some parts of high Germany and the Netherlands, Vol. I (Glasgow 1905)

  238–39Arthur Young, Arthur Young’s Travels in France during the Years 1787, 1788, 1789 (London 1906)

  239–41Queen Victoria, Journal. RA VIC/MAIN/QVJ (W) 20 August 1855 www.queenvictoriasjournals.org. © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2012

  241–43Mark Twain, The Innocents Abroad (New York 1869)

  243–44Anton Chekhov, Letters of Anton Chekhov, ed. Constance Garnett (London 1920)

  244–46Gertrude Stein, The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas (New York 1933)

  248–50Fynes Moryson, An Itinerary Containing his Ten Yeeres Travell through the Twelve Dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Italy, Turky, France, England, Scotland & Ireland (London 1617)

  250–51Hester Lynch Piozzi, Observations and Reflections Made in the Course of a Journey through France, Italy, and Germany, Vol. II (London 1789)

  251–52Albert Camus, ‘Death in the Soul’ (1938), in Lyrical and Critical Essays, trans. Philip Thody (London 1968). Copyright © 1958, by Editions Gallimard. Reprinted by Permission of Vintage Books, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited

  254–55John White, Journal of a Voyage to New South Wales (London 1790)

  255–56Maria Graham, Journal of a Voyage to Brazil, and Residence there during part of the years 1821, 1822, 1823 (London 1824)

  257Prince Adalbert of Prussia, Travels in the South of Europe and in Brazil: with a voyage up the Amazon, and its tributary the Xingú (London 1849)

  258–59Annie Allnutt Brassey, Our Voyage in the Sunbeam: Our Home on the Ocean for Eleven Months (London 1879)

  259–60Peter Fleming, Brazilian Adventure (London 1933). Published by the Alden Press. Copyright © Peter Fleming 1933

  262–63Marvels of Rome, Or, A Picture of the Golden City, trans. Francis Morgan Nichols (London 1889)

  264–65Pero Tafur, Travels and Adventures of Pero Tafur 1435–1439, ed. E. Denison Ros
s and Eileen Power (London 1926)

  265–66Michel de Montaigne, The Journal of Montaigne’s Travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, trans. W. G. Walters, Vol. II (London 1903)

  266–67Edward Gibbon, Memoirs of My Life and Writings (London 1796)

  267–69Charles Dickens, Pictures from Italy (London 1846)

  269–70Oscar Wilde, in Letters of Oscar Wilde, ed. Rupert Hart-Davis (London 1962)

  270–71Eleanor Clark, Rome and a Villa (London 1953), pp. 35–36. Copyright © 1992 by Eleanor Clark. Reprinted by HarperCollins Publishers

  273–74Nathaniel Wraxall, A Tour through some of the northern parts of Europe, particularly Copenhagen, Stockholm and Petersburgh in a series of letters (London 1776)

  274–76Robert Ker Porter, Travelling Sketches in Russia and Sweden: During the Years 1805, 1806, 1807, 1808 (Philadelphia 1809)

  276–77R. B. Paul, Journal of a Tour to Moscow, in the Summer of 1836 (London 1836)

  277–79Marquis de Custine, Russia (New York 1854)

  279–80Consuelo Vanderbilt Balsan, The Glitter and the Gold (London 1954)

  281Corliss Lamont, Russia Day by Day (New York 1933)

  283–85Ruy González de Clavijo, Embassy to Tamerlane, trans. Guy Le Strange (London 1928)

  285–86Emperor Babur, The Babur-nama in English, trans. Annette Beveridge (London 1921)

  288–89John Audubon, Audubon’s Western Journal, 1849–1850: Being the MS. record of a trip from New York to Texas, and an overland journey through Mexico and Arizona to the gold fields of California (Cleveland 1906)

  289–90Kume Kunitake, Records of My Visits to America and Europe 1871–1873 (Tokyo 1876)

  290–92Ellen G. Hodges, Surprise Land: A Girl’s Letters from the West (Boston 1887)

  292–94Enrico Caruso, The Sketch magazine (London 1906)

  294–96Helen Perry, The Human Be-In (New York 1970). Published by Basic Books. Copyright © Helen Perry 1970

  298John White, Journal of a Voyage to New South Wales (London 1790)

  298–300Anthony Trollope, Australia and New Zealand (London 1876)

  300–02Mark Twain, Following the Equator (New York 1897)

  302D. H. Lawrence, Kangaroo (London 1923)

  304–05Leo Africanus, The History and Description of Africa, trans. Robert Brown, Vol. I (London 1896)

  305–07René Caillié, Revue des deux mondes. Journal des Voyages, Series II, Vol. I (Paris 1830)

  307–09Heinrich Barth, Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa (New York 1857)

  311–12John Saris, The Voyage of Captain John Saris to Japan, 1613, ed. Ernest M. Satow (London 1900)

  312–13Ernest Mason Satow, A Diplomat in Japan (Philadelphia 1921)

  313–15Isabella Bird, Unbeaten Tracks in Japan (London 1880)

  315–16Mrs Hugh [Mary Crawford] Fraser, Letters from Japan: A Record of Modern Life in the Island Empire (London 1899)

  316–19Marie Stopes, Journal from Japan (London 1910)

  319–20Fosco Maraini, Meeting with Japan, trans. Eric Mosbacher (London 1959). Published by Hutchinson Ltd. Copyright © Fosco Maraini 1959

  322–24Pero Tafur, Travels and Adventures of Pero Tafur 1435–1439, ed. E. Denison Ross and Eileen Power (London 1926)

  324–25Pietro Casola, Canon Pietro Casola’s Pilgrimage to Jerusalem in the year 1494, ed. Margaret Newett (Manchester 1907)

  325–26John Evelyn, The Diary of John Evelyn, Vol. I (London 1818)

  326–28Johann von Goethe, Italian Journey, in The Works of J. W. von Goethe, Vol. 12, trans. A. J. W. Morrison (London 1892)

  328–29Thomas Jefferson Hogg, Two Hundred and Nine Days; or, The journal of a traveller on the continent, Vol. II (London 1827)

  329–31John Ruskin, The Stones of Venice (London 1851–53)

  331–32Henry James, Portraits of Places (London 1883)

  334Antonio Bonfini, in Daily Life in the Vienna of Mozart and Schubert, by Marcel Brion (London 1961)

  334–35Evliya Çelebi, In the Empire of the Golden Apple, trans. Richard Bassett, quoted in Vienna, A Travellers’ Companion, edited by John Lehmann and Richard Bassett (London 1988)

  335–36Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, Letters (London 1789)

  336–38Frances Trollope, Vienna and the Austrians: with some account of a journey through Swabia, Bavaria, the Tyrol, and the Salzbourg, Vol. II (London 1838)

  338–40Anton Chekhov, Letters of Anton Chekhov, ed. Constance Garnett (London 1920)

  340–41Patrick Leigh Fermor, The Time of Gifts (London 1977). Copyright © 1977 Patrick Leigh Fermor. Reproduced by permission of John Murray Press, an imprint of Hodder and Stoughton Limited

  343–45Adlard Welby, A visit to North America and the English settlements in Illinois, in Early Western Travels, ed. Reuben Gold Thwaites, Vol. 12 (New York 1905)

  345–47Theodore Dwight, Travels in America (Glasgow 1848)

  347–48Jan Morris, ‘The Morning After: Washington D.C. 1974’. First published in Travels, by Faber & Faber (New York 1980). Copyright © 1974 Jan Morris

  INDEX

  All page numbers refer to the 2019 print edition.

  In view of the wide variety of alternative names and spellings across the entries in this book, the index refers to commonly used modern forms, rather than the varieties used by the contributors. Numbers in bold refer to main entries for each city.

  Abbasid dynasty 40

  Abu Bakr, Caliph 187

  Acropolis, Athens 30

  Adelbert, Prince of Prussia 257

  Admiralty House, Sydney 301

  Afghanistan 47

  Al-Fustat see Cairo

  al-Hamawi, Yaqut 42

  al-Idrisi, Muhammad 14

  Al-Mansur, Caliph 40, 43, 45

  al-Muqtafi, Caliph 41

  Al-Qahira see Cairo

  al-Qarafa cemetery, Cairo 73

  Albany, New York 225

  Albert, Prince 239

  Alexander I, Tsar 274

  Alexander the Great 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 33, 282, 285

  Alexandria 12–19, 284

  Ali, Caliph 187

  American Journey (Theodore Dwight) 345

  American War of Independence 224, 226

  Amr mosque, Cairo 73

  Amsterdam 20–29

  An Itinerary Containing his Ten Yeeres Travel (Fynes Moryson) 21

  And Quiet Flows the Don (Mikhail Sholokov) 68

  Andersen, Hans Christian 178

  Andronicos II, Emperor 140

  Antwerp 20

  Appian Way, Rome 269

  Aqaba, Il-Khan 235

  Arabia 42

  Arabian Nights 18

  Arafat (Arifat) mountain 188

  Arc de Triomphe 235, 240, 241

  Area of Darkness (V. S. Naipaul) 213

  Arlington National Cemetery, Virginia 347, 348

  Armour & Co., Chicago 83

  Arno river 108, 115

  Astrakhan 140

  Athens 7, 30–39

  Audubon, John 288

  Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas (Gertrude Stein) 244

  Avenue Wenceslaus, Prague 251

  Ayyubid empire 70

  Aztecs 189, 193

  Babur, Emperor 285

  Babylon 14

  Baghdad 40–48, 139

  Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt 279

  Balsan, Jacques 279

  Baltimore 346

  Baptistery, Florence 110, 111

  Barth, Heinrich 307

  Bastille, Paris 240, 242, 243

  Batavia see Jakarta

  bath-house 18, 42, 95

  Batista, Fulgencio 128

  Bayezid I, Sultan 283

  Bazaar, Damascus 92, 93, 94

  bazaars, see markets, bazaars

  Beauvoir, Simone de 122, 231

  Beckford, William 217

  Beijing (Khanbaliq, Cambaluc, Dadu, Tatu, Beiping, Pekin, Peking) 11, 49–59, 122, 260

  Bell, Gertrude 47, 48

  Bell, John 54

  Benjamin
of Tudela 41, 139

  Berlin 60–69

  Bethesda Pool 147, 150

  Bird, Isabella 119, 132, 313

  Black Death 89, 90

  Blitz 164

  Boboli Gardens, Florence 114, 115

  Bois de Boulogne, Paris 240

  Bolsheviks 198, 272, 280

  Bombay see Mumbai

  Bonfini, Antonio 334

  Book of Pleasant Journeys into Faraway Lands (al-Idrisi) 14

  Book of Travels (Evliya Çelebi) 334

  Bordeaux pilgrim 147

  Borensztajn, Jozef Hilel 28

  Bosch, Hieronymous 180

  Bovet, Marie Anne de 105

  Bowen Bros, Chicago 81

  Bowery, New York 226, 228, 232

  Brandenburg 60

  Brandenburg Gate, Berlin 60, 62, 68

  Brassey, Annie Allnutt 258

  Brazil, empire of 253

  Brazilian Adventure (Peter Fleming) 259

  Brecht, Bertolt 68

  Broadway, New York 226, 227, 228, 230, 231, 232

  Brooklyn, New York 225

  Brunelleschi, Filippo 110

  Bryant, William Cullen 176

  Burton, Isabel 92

  Burton, Richard 186

  Byron, George Gordon Byron, 6th Baron 31, 35

  Byron, Robert 47

  Byzantine empire 138, 321

  Byzantium see Istanbul

  Caesar, Julius 17, 237, 273

  Caillié, René 305, 309

  Cairo (Al-Fustat, Al-Qahira) 15, 16, 70–78

  Calderón de la Barca, Frances 126, 192

  California Gold Rush 287, 288

  Cambaluc see Beijing

  Campanile, Florence 110

  Camus, Albert 251

  Canals 21, 26, 27, 28, 43, 122, 316, 322, 327, 328, 331

  Candia, Crete 326

  Canton see Guangzhou

  Capitol, Rome 262, 267

  Capitol, Washington 343, 344, 347

  Capraea, Capri 217, 218, 220

  Carnival 221, 267, 325

  Caruso, Enrico 292

  Casino Royale (Ian Fleming) 135

  Casola, Pietro 149, 324

  Castro, Fidel 125

  Cataygorod (Kitay Gorod), Moscow 199

  Cathay 284

  Catherine I ‘the Great’, Empress of Russia 273

  Çelebi, Evliya 334

  Central Park, New York 176, 230

  Chamberlain, Neville 248

  Champs-Elysées, Paris 235, 240

  Changthang 161

 

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