St Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin 98
St Paul 91, 92, 263
St Paul’s Cathedral, London 165, 171
St Peter 262, 263
St Peter’s Basilica, Rome 264, 268
St Petersburg 55, 197, 203, 204, 272–81
St Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna 339, 341
Sainte-Chapelle, Paris 234, 240
Saladin, Sultan 70, 147
Salamanca 190
Salamis 38
Salt Lake City 83
Samarkand 42, 282–86
Samuel Young see T.Q.
San Cristobal de la Habana see Havana
San Francisco 83, 287–96
San Lorenzo, Florence 108
San Sebastian 180
São Paolo 256
Saris, John 311
Satow, Ernest Mason 312
Sauma, Rabban Bar 235
Saussure, César de 165, 167
Schutz Staffel (SS) 66
Scott, John MacCallum 211
Second World War 13, 13, 21, 28, 63, 71, 217, 222, 235, 248, 262, 273, 311, 340
Seljuq Turks 41, 139
Selvon, Sam 172
Septimus Severus, Emperor 269
Seraglio, Constantinople 142
Seville 191
Shakespeare, William 24, 164
Shanghai 117, 290
Shanghai Theatre, Havana 127
Shelley, Mary 62
Shelley, Percy Bysshe 62, 328
Shepheard’s Hotel, Cairo 76
Shogun, shogunate 310, 311
Sholokov, Mikhail 68
shopping see markets, bazaars
Sicily 15
Silicon Valley 288
Silk Road 8, 16, 282
Silvester, Pope 263
Simond, Louis 167
Sketches from a Life (George Kennan) 67
Sluyter, Peter 225
Société de Géographie 305
Socrates 39
Solomon, King 146, 147, 151
Solon 34
Somerset House, London 171
Song dynasty 116
Songhai empire 303
Sorbonne, Paris 234, 237
South Side, Chicago 85, 86
Soviet Union 61
Sparta 34
Stark, Freya 44, 95
Statue of Liberty 225
Stein, Gertrude 244
Stephen’s Green, Dublin 100
stockyards, Chicago 79, 83
Stones of Florence (Mary McCarthy) 113
Stopes, Marie 316
Stowe, Harriet Beecher 170
Strabo 8, 13
Strand, London 171
Stranger and Afraid, A (G. S. Fraser) 77
Suez Canal 13, 208
Sugar Loaf Mountain 260
Suleiman the Magnificent, Sultan 142, 333, 335
Summer of Love (1967) 294
Sunday Times newspaper 135
Surgeons’ Hall, Amsterdam 25
Sydney 297–302
Sydney Harbour Bridge 297
Sydney Opera House 297
Synesius of Cyrene 33
T.Q. (Samuel Young) 112, 220
Tacon, Miguel 126
Tafur, Pero 141, 264, 322
Taine, Hippolyte 171, 271
Taiping Rebellion 117
Tang dynasty 49
Tatu see Beijing
Taylor, Bayard 118, 131, 209
Tchaikovsky, Peter 280
Tegaza, Mali 304
Tehran (Teheran) 48
Temple of Jerusalem 146, 151, 154, 155
Tenochtitlan see Mexico City
Theater am Schiffbauerdamm, Berlin 68
Themistocles 37, 38
Thirty Years War 248
Thrale, Hester Lynch see Piozzi, Hester Lynch
Thubron, Colin 57
Tianjin (Tientsin) 57
Tiber river 267
Tiergarden, Berlin 65
Tigris river 41, 42, 43
Timbuktu 303–09
Time of Gifts, The (Patrick Leigh Fermor) 340
Times, The newspaper 80
Timur, Khan 282, 283, 284, 285
Titian 100
Titus, Emperor 146, 262, 269
Toklas, Alice B. 244
Tokugawa shogunate 310, 311
Tokyo (Edo, Yedo) 310–20
Toleda, Naples 220
Tonkin 56
Tour in England, Ireland, and France (Hermann von Pückler-Muskau) 103
Tour in Ireland (Arthur Young) 99
Tour of the French traveller M. de La Boullaye Le Gouz in Ireland, A.D. 1644, The 98
Tozenji temple, Tokyo 312
trade 23, 80, 117, 284–85, 289–90
Tramp Abroad (Mark Twain) 241
Transoxiana 282
transportation 53, 54, 58, 64, 82, 84, 126, 127, 128, 208, 210, 232, 241, 244, 315, 316, 317, 337,
Travels and Adventures (Pero Tafur) 141
Travels in the South of Europe and in Brazil (Prince Adelbert of Prussia) 257
Travels in Upper and Lower Egypt (Vivant Denon) 16
Travels of Ibn Battuta, The 72
Trincomalé (Trincomalee) 298
Trinity Church, New York 230
Trinity College, Dublin 99
Trollope, Anthony 298, 337
Trollope, Frances 336
Trotsky, Leon 180
Troy 7
Tuareg 303, 307
Tuileries Palace, Paris 234, 238
Twain, Mark 241, 300
Two Hundred and Nine Days (Thomas Jefferson Hogg) 328
Ulugh Beg Mirza 285, 286
Umar, Caliph 147
Umayyad Mosque, Damascus 88, 89, 91
Ume yashiki (Plum Garden), Tokyo 312
Unbeaten Tracks in Japan (Isabella Bird) 313
Uncle Tom’s Cabin (Harriet Beecher Stowe) 170
Unter den Linden, Berlin 65, 66
Uthman, Caliph 285
Uzbekeeh Square, Cairo 75
Val Longo, Rio 256
Van Campen, Jacob 27
Van Dyck, Anthony 25
Vasari, Leon Battista 110
Vatican 262, 263, 270, 271
Venice 266, 316, 321–32
Vera Cruz 125
Versailles 235
Vesuvius 216, 217, 218, 219, 220
Via Veneto, Rome 271
Victoria Peak, Hong Kong 131, 132
Victoria, Queen of the United Kingdom 239
Vienna 333–41
Vikings 97
Villa di Castello, Florence 109
Vincent, Mrs Howard 82
Vltava (Moldau) river 247, 249, 250
VOC see East India Company, Dutch
Voyage of Italy, The (Richard Lassels) 109
Wabash Avenue, Chicago 80
Walid I, Caliph 88, 89
Wall Street, New York 228
Wall-street Bear in Europe (T.Q. or Samuel Young) 112
Walter, John 80, 229
War of 1812 226, 346
Warmoesstraat, Amsterdam 21
Washington D.C. 342–48
Washington Monument 347, 348
Washington, George 344
Watergate 347
Waterloo Bridge, London 170
Waterloo, Battle of 63
Ways of Escape (Graham Greene) 128
Weimar Republic 61
Welby, Adlard 226, 343
Well of Zamzam, Mecca 186, 187
Wellington, Duke of 104
Wenceslas, Prince of Bohemia 247, 250
West End, London 164, 170
West India Company, Dutch 226
Western Wall or Wailing Wall, Jerusalem see Kotel Hamaaravi
Westminster, London 163
White House, Washington D.C. 342, 343, 344
White, John 254, 298
Whitehall, London 163
Wiesel, Elie 154
Wilde, Oscar 269
William I, King of England 163
William III, King of England 103
Wilmot, Catherine 61
Windt, Ha
rry de 55
Winter in Upper and Lower Egypt (George Hoskins) 75
Winter Palace, St Petersburg 274, 279, 280
Wolfe, Thomas 64
Wraxall, Nathaniel 273
Wynn, Richard 175
Xia Qinggao (Hsieh Ch’ing Kao) 166
Yan, kingdom of 49
Yedo see Tokyo
Yokohama 290, 311, 314
You Can’t Go Home Again (Thomas Wolfe) 64
Young, Arthur 99, 238
Younghusband, Francis 158, 159
Youzhou see Beijing
Yuan dynasty 50
Zeughaus, Berlin 68
Zhao Rugua 16
Zhongdu see Beijing
Zhu Fan Zhi (Zhao Rugua) 16
Zócalo (Constitution Square), Mexico City 194
Zola, Emile 171
First published in the United Kingdom in 2019 as
Great Cities Through Travellers’ Eyes
ISBN 978-0-500-02165-1
by Thames & Hudson Ltd, 181a High Holborn, London WC1V 7QX
and in the United States of America by
Thames & Hudson Inc., 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10110
Great Cities Through Travellers’ Eyes © 2019 Thames & Hudson Ltd, London
Introduction, arrangement and editorial material © 2019 Peter Furtado
For details of other copyright material see Sources & Acknowledgments
This electronic version first published in 2019 by
Thames & Hudson Ltd, 181a High Holborn, London WC1V 7QX
This electronic version first published in 2019 in the United States of America by
Thames & Hudson Inc., 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10110.
All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any other information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.
eISBN 978-0-500-77484-7
eISBN for USA only 978-0-500-77485-4
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Cover: View of Venice from the Grand Canal (detail), c. 1870-89, print by
an anonymous artist. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, Gift of A. Levre, Amsterdam
Great Cities Through Travelers' Eyes Page 41