by Mungo Park
Reached Nummasoolo at two o’clock. This has formerly been a large town; but being destroyed by war some years ago, nearly three-fourths of the town are in ruins. Before we had time to pitch the tent properly, the rain came down on us, and wetted us all completely, both men and bundles. This was a very serious affair to us, many of our articles of merchandise being perishable. Slept very uncomfortably in wet clothes on the wet ground. Troubled in the night with a lion; he came so near that the sentry fired at him, but it was so dark that it was impossible to take a good aim. All the asses pulled up the pins to which they were fastened, and ran together as near the men as they could. As the sick soldiers before mentioned did not come up before sunset, I concluded they had all returned to Bangassi; and the Dooty’s son coming up on horseback, informed me that they had really returned to his father’s house, and wished to know what I meant to do respecting them. I told him that I wished my people to be taken proper care of, and gave him ten bars of amber for his care in coming to inform me of them. I likewise put into his possession three strings of amber of forty bars each, and told him how to dispose of them for the use of the sick. I likewise told him that, if any of them should recover, if he would send a proper person forward with them to Bambakoo, I would give him an Indian baft, or ten bars of scarlet, which he preferred. At the same time I wrote the following note to the men.
DEAR SOLDIERS – I am sorry to learn that you have returned to Bangassi. I have sent in charge of the bearer of this three complete strings of amber; one of which will procure rice for forty days; the second will purchase milk or fowls for the same time; and the third will buy provisions for you on the road till you arrive at the Niger.
Yours,
M. PARK
July 28th – Rained all day. Remained in the tent at Nummasoolo.
July 29th – Divided the men’s clothes who were left behind amongst the other men; many of them being in great want of clothes, and the nights being now cold and damp. Found five dollars in J. Trott’s knapsack, for which I am accountable. Spread out the rice to dry; found it hot and much damaged. Some people arrived from the east, who informed us that a stream on the road, which is usually dry, was so much swelled by the rain that no ass could cross it. Halted here during the day to dry the different articles.
July 30th – Departed from Nummasoolo. Was under the necessity of leaving here William Allen sick. Paid the Dooty for him as usual. I regretted much leaving this man: he had naturally a cheerful disposition; and he used often to beguile the watches of the night with the songs of our dear native land.
About five miles east of Nummasoolo passed the stream before mentioned, flowing to the south-east. The water had subsided, and was only about eighteen inches deep, but flowed very rapidly. Many asses fell, and had their loads wetted. It likewise rained two hours on the march. Crossed a ridge of hills through an opening. Road tolerably good except in two places. We descended on the east side, and reached Surtaboo, a small ruined village, about two o’clock. Here I learnt that the front of the coffle had gone on to a village about four miles farther; but the asses in the rear being all very much fatigued, and lying down with their loads frequently, I judged it prudent to halt till some fresh asses should be sent to my assistance.
We had not halted here above an hour, when three of Isaaco’s people and two asses came back; and with their help we arrived at Sobee at seven o’clock. On the road we passed the last of the St. Jago asses, the whole forty having either died or been abandoned on the road at different places. We were all very wet, for it rained almost the whole way; and all very hungry, having tasted nothing since the preceding evening. The town of Sobee has changed its situation three times. It was taken about ten years ago by Daisy, king of Kaarta, with thirteen horsemen and some of his slaves on foot. They carried off five hundred slaves, two hundred of which were women. Such as escaped rebuilt the town about a mile to the east of its former situation; but when it had acquired some degree of prosperity, it was destroyed by Mansong, king of Bambarra. The present town is built nearer the foot of the hills; part of it is walled, which serves as a sort of citadel. There is plenty of corn and rice here on moderate terms; but they have not yet had time to recruit their herds of cattle.
July 31st – Rained hard all the morning, and flying showers all day. Halted at Sobee. During the night one of the townspeople attempted to steal one of the soldiers’ pieces, some of which were standing against a tree close to the tent. Lieutenant Martyn was sleeping under the tree; and hearing somebody moving the muskets, he no sooner observed that it was a Negro, than he snatched one of the muskets and fired at the thief as he was running off with one of the muskets. Whether the ball touched him or not we could not learn; but the thief dropped the musket, and we found it with the pouch and bayonet in the morning.
August 1st – Early this morning purchased an ass for a pistol, a baft, and a Mandingo cloth. We set out at seven o’clock. Immediately on the east of the town came to another stream flowing towards the south-south-west. It was so deep, that the whole of the bundles had to be carried over on men’s heads. During this, being surrounded by thieves on all sides, Isaaco unfortunately struck two of the soldiers; which action had nearly cost him his life, one of the soldiers attempting to stab him with his bayonet, when Mr Anderson prevented him; and as I reproved Isaaco for his conduct in the sharpest manner, he went off in a pet with his people, leaving us to find our way across the river in the best manner we could. I hired four people to carry over the loads; and stood myself as sentry over the thieves. In this manner the whole of the baggage was carried over with much less loss than we had sustained at any other river. The asses were swam over, and the whole only cost one string of No. 5; but I had to pay fifty stones to the Dooty’s son for asses going on the corn. As soon as all was over we loaded the asses and set forwards. At sunset we reached Balanding. We had only time to pitch our tent, when the rain came on; indeed we had no time for cooking our victuals, for though all the soldiers cooked, yet the rain came on before our kettle was ready; and Messrs Anderson, Scott, Martyn, and myself, all slept without having tasted anything during the day.
August 2nd – Rainy. Halted at Balanding.
August 3rd – Sun rose east 3° south. Departed from Balanding, and halted at Balandoo, a walled village about four miles to the east-by-south. Bought two sheep for one barraloolo.
August 4th – Departed from Balandoo. About a mile to the east saw the hill of Sobee bearing north-west by compass. About this place Lawrence Cahill, one of the soldiers, who had complained of sickness for some days, fell behind; and I hired a person to drive his ass, telling him to come on at his leisure. At eleven o’clock crossed a stream running south-east which gave us great trouble, the banks being very steep and slippery. Crossed the same stream again at half-past twelve, running east by north. In the course of this day’s march four of the soldiers were unable to attend to their asses. Mr Scott, being very sick, rode my horse; and I drove one of the asses. So very much weakened were the men, that when their loads fell off they could not lift them on again. I assisted in loading thirteen asses in the course of the march. We reached Koolihori at three o’clock. This town is partly walled; but the greater part of the huts are without the walls. As soon as the tents were pitched, the rain commenced, and continued all night. We had not time to cook, and the rain prevented the watch-fire from burning; owing to which one of our asses was killed by the wolves. It was only sixteen feet distant from a bush under which one of the men was sleeping.
August 5th – Morning hazy. Halted, resolving to travel at two o’clock, and sleep in the woods, the Ba woolli being too far to reach in one march. Bought some ripe maize of this year’s growth.
The whole route from Bangassi is marked with ruined towns and villages; some of them are rebuilt, but by far the greater number are still in ruins. We saw scarcely any cattle on the route, and the avidity of the people of Koolihori for animal food, or perhaps their own peculiar taste, made them eat what the wolves had le
ft of our ass. The wolves had eat only the bowels and heart, etc, so that the people had the four quarters and head. The day having clouded up for rain, resolved to halt here for the night. In the course of the afternoon Lawrence Cahill came up; but William Hall, who had gone into a ruined hut near the road, and who did not appear to be very sick, did not arrive. Suspected that he might be killed by the wolves in the hut during the night. At sunset had all the asses properly tied near the tents; and watched myself with the sentries all night, as the wolves kept constantly howling round us.
* It is thus in Mr Park’s manuscript. There seems to be some omission.
Chapter 5
Departure from Koolihori – Ganifarra – Scarcity of provisions – Distressing situation of the Author from deaths and sickness of the party – Escapes from three lions – Intricate route to Koomikoomi – Dombila – Visit from Karfa Taura – View of the Niger – Reduced state of the party – Bambakoo – Losses from wolves – Bosradoo; embark on the Niger; incidents in the voyage to Marraboo – Isaaco sent to Sego with presents for Mansong – Message from Mansong – Course to Koolikorro – Deena – Yamina – Samee – Return of Isaaco; account of his interview with Mansong – Messengers sent by Mansong, and enquiries respecting the Author’s journey – Quit Samee – Excessive heat – Reach Sansanding – Account of that city and its trade – Death of Mr Anderson – Preparations for continuing the voyage eastward – Information collected respecting various districts.
AUGUST 6TH – Having hired two more ass-drivers at one bar and their victuals per day, we left Koolihori early in the morning, and travelled with considerable dispatch till three o’clock; at which time we reached Ganifarra, a small beggarly village. In the course of this march L. Cahill and J. Bird, two of the soldiers, and William Cox, one of the seamen, fell behind, and laid down. As soon as the front of the coffle had reached Ganifarra, it came on a very heavy rain. Being in the rear I was completely drenched; and two of the asses carrying four trunks, in which were the gun stocks, pistols, looking-glasses, etc, fell down in a stream of water near the town, and all the contents were completely wet. I could purchase nothing here, not so much as a fowl. Served out a short allowance of rice, being very short of that article.
August 7th – During the night, some person had stolen one of our best asses; and as the load must be left if we could not recover it, Isaaco’s people having traced the footmarks to a considerable distance, agreed to go in search of it. Isaaco gave them the strictest orders, if they came up to the thief in the woods to shoot him; and, if not, to follow him to a town and demand the ass from the Dooty; if he refused to give it up, to return as soon as possible.
Spent the day in drying such things as were wet; cleaned and greased with Shea butter all the ornamented pistols, ten pair. Dried the looking-glasses, which were quite spoiled. In the afternoon sent two of the natives away with goods to a neighbouring town to purchase rice and corn. At sunset Bird came up, but had seen nothing of Cox nor Cahill.
August 8th – People not yet returned. Opened the trunk which contained the double-barrelled gun stocks; cleaned and greased them. About noon people returned with the rice and corn, but not quite sufficient for one day. Nearly at the same time Isaaco’s people came up with the ass; they had traced his footmarks past Koolihori, and found him at Balandoo. Did not see the thief, but learned his name; which Isaaco promised to write to his friend at Bangassi, to inform Serinummo of him. In the afternoon agreed with the Dooty for thirty-five bars to carry everything over. Rained heavily all the evening.
August 9th – Michael May, a soldier, having died during the night, buried him at daybreak. Had all the loads taken to the crossing-place by eight o’clock. The Ba woolli is nearly of the same size as the one we formerly crossed of that name; it appeared to be exceedingly deep, and flowed at the rate of four or five miles per hour. There is a very good canoe here, which can carry over four ass-loads at once. As it threatened rain, sent over three men with one of the tents, and pitched it on the east side about half a mile from the river; the ground near the bank being marshy. Hired people to carry down the bundles, and put them into the canoe; and others to receive them on the other side, and carry them up the bank; so that the soldiers had nothing to move, being all weak and sickly.
By one o’clock all the baggage was over; but we found some difficulty in transporting the asses; the rapidity of the stream swept the canoe and the first six past the landing-place; and they went so far down the river, that I really thought the asses must be drowned; which would have been an irreparable loss in our situation. However, by the exertions of the Negroes, who swam in with ropes to the canoe, the asses were landed on the other side; where they stood by the water’s edge until the Negroes with their corn hoes made a path for them up the steep bank. To prevent such an accident, we took the ropes from several of our loads, and fastened them together, so as to reach across the river; with this we hauled over the loaded canoe, and the Negroes paddled it back when empty. In this manner all the asses and horses were swam over without any loss.
When the bundles were all carried up to the tent, we found that we had not more rice than was barely sufficient for the present day; and as no more could be purchased, we had no alternative but to march early in the morning for Bambarra; the distance by all accounts would not exceed fourteen or fifteen miles.
August 10th – William Ashton* declared that he was unable to travel; but as there was no place to leave him at, I advised him to make an exertion and come on, though slowly, till he should reach a place where he could have food. At eight o’clock set forwards; and travelled very expeditiously without halting till four in the afternoon, at which time the front of the coffle reached Dababoo, a village of Bambarra. Being in the rear, I found many of the men very much fatigued with the length of the journey and the heat of the day. At half-past four I arrived with the ass I drove at a stream flowing to the westwards.
Here I found many of the soldiers sitting, and Mr Anderson lying under a bush, apparently dying. Took him on my back, and carried him across the stream, which came up to my middle. Carried over the load of the ass which I drove, got over the ass, Mr Anderson’s horse, etc Found myself much fatigued, having crossed the stream sixteen times. Left here four soldiers with their asses, being unable to carry over their loads. Having loaded my ass and put Mr Anderson on his horse, we went on to the village; but was sorry to find that no rice could be had, and I was only able to buy one solitary fowl.
August 11th – Bought a small bullock of the Moorish breed for one barraloolo; and having purchased some corn, had it cleaned and dressed for the people instead of rice. This morning hired Isaaco’s people to go back, and bring up the loads of the soldiers who had halted by the side of the stream. In the course of the day all the loads arrived; but was sorry to find that in the course of the last two marches we had lost four men, viz. Cox, Cahill, Bird, and Ashton. Mr Anderson still in a very dangerous way, being unable to walk or sit upright. Mr Scott much recovered. I found that I must here leave one load, one of the horses being quite finished. Left the seine nets in charge of the Dooty, till I should send for them.
August 12th – Rained all the morning. About eleven o’clock, the sky being clear, loaded the asses. None of the Europeans being able to lift a load, Isaaco made the Negroes load the whole. Saddled Mr Anderson’s horse; and having put a sick soldier on mine, took Mr Anderson’s horse by the bridle, that he might have no trouble but sitting upright on the saddle. We had not gone far before I found one of the asses with a load of gunpowder, the driver (Dickinson) being unable to proceed (I never heard of him afterwards); and shortly after the sick man dismounted from my horse, and laid down by a small pool of water, refusing to rise. Drove the ass and horse on before me. Passed a number of sick. At half-past twelve o’clock Mr Anderson declared he could ride no farther. Took him down and laid him in the shade of a bush, and sat down beside him. At half-past two o’clock he made another attempt to proceed; but had not rode above a hundred yard
s before I had to take him down from the saddle, and lay him again in the shade. I now gave up all thoughts of being able to carry him forwards till the cool of the evening; and having turned the horses and ass to feed, I sat down to watch the pulsations of my dying friend. At four o’clock four of the sick came up; three of them agreed to take charge of the ass with the gunpowder; and I put a fourth, who had a sore leg, on my horse, telling him if he saw Mr Scott on the road to give him the horse.
At half-past five o’clock, there being a fine breeze from the southwest, Mr Anderson agreed to make another attempt, and having again placed him on the saddle, I led the horse on pretty smartly in hopes of reaching Koomikoomi before dark. We had not proceeded above a mile, before we heard on our left a noise very much like the barking of a large mastiff, but ending in a hiss like the fuf* of a cat. I thought it must be some large monkey; and was observing to Mr Anderson ‘what a bouncing fellow that must be,’ when we heard another bark nearer to us, and presently a third still nearer, accompanied with a growl. I now suspected that some wild animal meant to attack us, but could not conjecture of what species it was likely to be. We had not proceeded a hundred yards farther, when coming to an opening in the bushes, I was not a little surprised to see three lions coming towards us. They were not so red as the lion I formerly saw in Bambarra, but of a dusky colour, like the colour of an ass. They were very large, and came bounding over the long grass, not one after another, but all abreast of each other. I was afraid, if I allowed them to come too near us, and my piece should miss fire, that we should be all devoured by them. I therefore let go the bridle, and walked forwards to meet them. As soon as they were within a long shot of me, I fired at the centre one. I do not think I hit him; but they all stopped, looked at each other, and then bounded away a few paces, when one of them stopped, and looked back at me. I was too busy in loading my piece to observe their motions as they went away, and was very happy to see the last of them march slowly off amongst the bushes. We had not proceeded above half a mile farther, when we heard another bark and growl close to us amongst the bushes. This was doubtless one of the lions before seen, and I was afraid they would follow us till dark, when they would have too many opportunities of springing on us unawares. I therefore got Mr Anderson’s call, and made as loud a whistling and noise as possible. We heard no more of them.