by Aline Dobbie
We were taken to lunch at Shaam-E-Sarhad Village Resort at the Hodka Village. They have a most attractive enclave where one could have stayed with beautiful cottages done in the heritage style of the Banni. We were glad to have lunch and then look around. A whole book could be written about the Banni lands and the peoples and their culture. I can just give you a taste here of what I observed and experienced.
The people’s asset is the livestock. The vast pasturelands of Banni are ideal for the rearing and maintenance of cattle, with the trading of calves, buffaloes, goats and cows; this is a chief means of livelihood. 63 families of Hodka are involved in animal husbandry and the local breeds of cows and buffaloes are well adapted to the hardy arid conditions. The Kathi breed of horse, famous for its speed, is also reared in this area.
Banni covers an area of 3847 sq km which is about 8.4% of the total geographical area of Kutch. The area is absolutely flat with now only 10-15 species of grass. After the monsoon the flat land becomes wetland and supports very large numbers of migratory waterfowls. At last we arrived at The Great Rann of Kutch or the White Rann. Rann means desert and this is a remarkable sight. We had to hand in a copy of our passport and visa to the police post nearby before we could proceed. This area becomes the border with Pakistan. If you look at my gallery you will see the flat vast expanse of white salt as far as the eye can see. It covers between 16000-17000 sq km with an average altitude of about 15 metres above mean sea level. The Rann owes its origin to a marine transgression in geological time scale and is tectonically an unstable area. Ecologically it represents one of the largest seasonal saline wetland areas in the world having 0.5 mt to 1.5mt water depth. However after October November the water starts drying up and the area turns into a saline desert which is as we saw it in late February this year. The birdlife is amazing with flamingoes, pelicans, Great Crested Grebe, Black Stork, Brahminy Duck, Common Pochard, Tufted Pochard, White Eyed Pochard, Gulls, Terns, Stints, Plovers and cranes. In total it is estimated that a quarter of a million birds of different species gather here in the autumn months. People from all over the world visit Gujarat for bird watching in the months of October and November in particular. For us the best was yet to come however!
Kala Raksha Folk Art Museum is a place to visit in this area. The brainchild of Judy Frater it shows the interested visitor how the Rabari nomadic people have evolved their embroidery. It is astounding in its own way and thankfully people are helping to maintain this wonderful culture in spite of modern trends and progress. Kala Raksha is a grassroots social enterprise committed to documenting and promoting existing traditions of the art and craft of Kutch. The Trust maintains a collection of heirloom textiles that functions as a resource base for artisans to study and create exquisite and contemporary work. I feel fortunate to have a beautiful cloth bag from their shop that was later given to me. Its embroidery style is unique to Garasia Jats – a group of Islamic pastoralists. The origins of these people, as I have already written, are a bit of a mystery and their embroidery too remains a mystery. Minute and precise Jat work uses an array of geometric patterns in counted work based on the cross-stitch often studded with mirrors. That is work that we are all familiar with from the various textile and craft shops of India. Mirror work is particularly synonymous with Indian folk art. I shall treasure this very well thought out beautiful bag and not use it too much as it is made of fabric.
We said our farewells the next morning and returned towards the East. Our destination was Rann Riders a resort at Dasada which is about two hours driving west of Ahmedabad but about five hours for us that day. We were to spend two nights there and the journey went well on Gujarat’s new highways. Rann Riders is an ethnically designed eco-resort set among rural pastures of cumin and other crops. The wetlands of the Little Rann of Kutch are also close to the village of Dasada. The owners of this resort are the descendants of the former rulers of Dasada and the family is passionate about wildlife appreciation and conservation and the history and culture of the area. I immediately like the ambience they had strived for with a cottage like appearance; the cottages resemble the kooba houses of the Bajania community of Dasada and the bhunga houses of the Rabaris of Kutch decorated with mirrors, mud-plaster work and embroideries. The communal area of the dining hall and sitting hall has low seats with bolsters and cushions. At night the candles are lit all around and the ambience is very pleasant. The management has geese, ducks, chickens and their young around and a rather proud and naughty peacock that had colonised our cottage and sat on the roof and called. Well how could I not like him? Nevertheless he is a bird to be treated with caution as he decided to attack me. Graham was muttering about roast peacock but as I was able to treat my wounds quickly with neem soap and medication I forgave him though I have the feeling he struts his stuff a little too stridently. He was sitting in the lounge on the cushions at one point and I gave him a wide berth! Naturally there is a swimming pool and pleasant gardens and a conference area. As well as all this livestock Muzahid Malik has the most beautiful Kathiawar horses or Marwari horses. They are so beautiful and his absolute pride and joy. His stallion will give Alishah of Rohet a run for his money I am sure and I think ‘Bapji’ – His Highness Maharajah of Jodhpur would find the stallion useful for his own beautiful mares at Balsamand Palace where he breeds Marwari horses – of which I have written in India: the Peacock’s Call. The food was good and nicely served and good tea and coffee was offered after the meal. Both of us felt very happy.
That afternoon we went out in a jeep on a safari to the Little Rann. This wildlife sanctuary comprises 4950 sq km with a huge expanse of saline desert wilderness interspersed with grass and scrublands and marshes. The Little Rann of Kutch is well known as the remaining habitat of the endangered Indian Wild Ass, a magnificent member of the horse family. The range of this handsome beast once extended from western India through Sindh and Baluchistan, Afghanistan and south eastern Iran but now it has its last refuge in and around the Little Rann. It is reddish grey, fawn or pale chestnut, with white under parts and has an erect dark mane which runs from the back of the head and along the neck followed by a dark brown stripe running along the back to the root of the tail. The Wild Ass are shy but we were able to go quite close and so enjoyed all our sightings of them in their groups and also alone. Nilgai are also to be seen and we were lucky enough to also see at close range three Desert Fox cubs, Golden Jackal, and Chinkara (the Indian Gazelle).
Dasada is ideally situated for birdwatchers. About 380 species of birds have been recorded in and around the Little Rann Sanctuary. Birdwatchers apparently have been known to spot more than 140 species of birds in a single day while staying at Dasada. We were taken out to the wetlands and Graham and I were enchanted. There were thousands of Demoiselle Cranes; they are lovely graceful birds and I was able to walk quietly and get really quite close for my photography. From time to time they would lift up en masse into flight which made for some dramatic photographs. This was such a plus for us because we had never yet seen Demoiselle Cranes but of course knew about them and had followed their story in the wonderful BBC documentary Earthflight, the DVD of which I have bought. It shows how these wonderful cranes start their journey in Siberia and other northern area of the globe and fly over the Himalayan range to reach their winter feeding grounds. They are revered in Rajasthan and return annually to one or two special places and of course now I know that one of them is Dasada. There were also some flamingoes and common cranes to be seen plus other ground birds. Birdlife International has declared The Little Rann Sanctuary as an Important Bird Area. Many characteristic birds of the Saharo- Sindian Desert region like Spotted and Painted Sandgrouse, a dozen species of Lark, Desert and Variable Wheatears and the White-eared Bulbul can be seen. Macqueen’s Bustard, Stolizka’s Bushchat, Syke’s Lark, Crested Lark, Greater Hoopoe Lark and Sociable Lapwing are all to be seen at or near Dasada. The Little Rann Sanctuary is also good for raptors including Aquila eagles, three species of harrier, buzzards and a varie
ty of falcons.
I am not a dedicated ‘Birder’ but I do love birdlife and to see it in this great wonderful range was truly magnificent and one of the highlights of my six week journey in India this year.
Again, people can explore the various crafts and cultures locally with the pastoral Kharapat and Vadiyara Rabaris. The Bharwads are colourfully dressed pastoral people, usually shepherds and goatherds. Camels are to be seen in and around the villages and used for transport. On the periphery of Dasada lives a community of families of nomadic Mirs. They come from Rajasthan and their homes are temporary and they excel in rustic but colourful jewellry and bangles.
Life is rustic and rudimentary and village life can be culturally shocking to those from the West who are used to good sanitation and modern amenities but there is much to see and observe and enjoy here whilst respecting these proud and hard working people.
We visited the 11th century Sun Temple of Modhera from here which was an easy pleasant drive. This is considered one of the finest examples of devotional architecture in western India. The Sun Temple is located on the left bank of the Pushpavati River a tributary of River Rupan. The literal meaning of Modhera is ‘Mound of the Dead’. The Sun Temple was built during the reign of Solanki King Bhimdev 1022-1063 CE and comprises three separate elements: (a) the main temple-complex including sanctum with ambulatory lateral transepts and porch; (b) a detached assembly hall with a torana in front; and (c) a large rectangular tank of water decorated with numerous miniature shrines. The ASI is responsible for its upkeep and restoration and the grounds are well maintained and it is a pleasant experience.
Patan with its famous Rani-ki-Vav stepwell is 70 km away. Patan is also the centre for double ikat weaving, a technique used by only a few families to produce valuable Patola fabrics and Mashru weaving.
Jhinjhwada is only 19 km away and has the remains of an old fort of the Solanki dynasty that ruled the area in the 11th and 12th centuries. The most impressive relic of the fort is a huge gateway separating the village from the Rann of Kutch with superb sandstone carvings.
Finally there is Munsar Tank 30 km away; this 12th century tank (body of water) is on the outskirts of the walled town of Viramgam and is enclosed by scores of intricately carved temples. So, there is much to see whilst one stays at Dasada and then the drive to the international or domestic airports of Ahmedabad is about two hour’s journey at most on good roads. We were sorry to leave and wished them all well.
Both the airports are excellent. We took a domestic flight to Delhi. It was lovely to return to Delhi which is my favourite Indian city. We were very happy to find ourselves at The Claridges. This group now has two hotels in Delhi, the original which is a little gem in Lutyens’s Delhi in Aurangzeb Road near my beloved Lodi Gardens which is so central and just a quick walk away from Khan Market for any shopping, and the new Claridges at Surajkund outside the city itself but only about 40 minutes drive away. This is a haven in which to finish a holiday in India and both have wonderful food, good service and attention to every detail as it should be for five star establishments. We have such happy stays at these hotels that I have a lump in my throat as I am driven away to the airport to return home.
Again I urge you to look at my galleries to see all of what I have written in ‘the virtual tours’ in my individual galleries: http://picasaweb.google.com/ alinedobbie these galleries can also be accessed through my website at http:// www.thepeacockscall.co.uk
FOOTNOTE
I am writing this as a footnote to all three of my conventional books now that they are being converted into e-books. For no-one does life remain unchanging and so it has been for me since I started my trilogy on India.
Ten years ago in June 2002 my first book India: The Peacock’s Call was launched at Neidpath Castle here on the banks of the famous River Tweed. Then I was urged to write a second book and India: The Tiger’s Roar was launched at The Nehru Centre in London in 2004. Hardly had that been published and I was urged to write a third book after the tragic tsunami at the very end of 2004. India: The Elephant’s Blessing was published in October 2006.
In 2008 India: The Peacock’s Call was republished with an additional Part II and all the conventional books are each sold with an inclusive DVD of my photography set to evocative Indian music.
Then in 2010 I was encouraged and commissioned to write an e-book on India. Quicklook at India was published in July 2010 and is now to become a conventional book as well. It is directed at those who need to make a quick research on India for business purposes or diplomacy or indeed travellers. It can be read in about 100 minutes.
Sadly in 2010 my beloved Raju my little feline muse died; he had been bitten by a neighbouring cat that infected him with the deadly feline HIV virus. We were bereft and I miss him dreadfully still; in the good times he would have been sitting next to me as I type this. Then in early 2011 my beloved Mother passed away in her 100th year. Loss is loss whether it is anticipated or not. My Mama had a wonderful long life and loved India. Memorabilia from our family has been exhibited in The Jat Regiment’s Regimental Museum at their Bareilly HQ which we again revisited this year.
There are now five grandchildren Piers, William, Honor (the only granddaughter), Calon and now Oliver who was born last year. They are a constant delight and I hope fervently will come to know and love India one day too. We continue to return to India and greatly appreciate seeing and experiencing all manner of wonderful things amongst friends and making new friends. We both feel very blessed.
My website is
http://www.thepeacockscall.co.uk and
The galleries are
http://picasaweb.google.com/alinedobbie
http://www.quicklookbooks.com
July 2012
Contacts and Details for those Visiting India
Tikli Bottom (the gracious guest house close to Delhi) Martin and Annie Howard
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.tiklibottom.com
Project Mala UK Charity No 801953
The Project Mala Office
Town Farmhouse, 25 Church Lane, Nether Poppleton
York, YO26 6LF, UK
Tel: + 44 (0)1904 786880
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.projectmala.org.uk
The Esther Benjamins Trust UK Charity No 1078187
Third Floor
2 Cloth Court
London, EC1A 7LS, UK
Tel: +44 (0)20 7600 5654
Fax: +44 (0)20 7726 6018
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.ebtrust.org.uk
Hope and Homes for Children UK Charity No 1089490
Head Office: East Clyffe
Salisbury, Wiltshire, UK
Tel: +44 (0)1722 790111
Fax: +44 (0)1722 790024
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.hopeandhomes.org
Tiger Awareness UK Charity No 1117234
11 Cheney Road
Thurmaston
Leicestershire, LE4 9ND
Tel: +44 (0)1162 761221
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.tigerawareness.co.uk
Brooke Hospital for Animals UK Charity No 1085760
Broadmead House
21 Panton Street
London, SW1Y 4DR, UK
Tel: +44 (0)20 7930 0210
Fax: +44 (0)20 7868 0828
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.thebrooke.org
International Animal Rescue UK Charity No 1118277
Lime House, Regency Close
Uckfield
East Sussex, TN22 1DS
Tel: +44 (0)1825 767688
Fax: +44(0)1825 768012
Email: info@ internationalanimalrescue.org
Website: www.internationalanimalrescue.org
Future Hope UK Charity No 1001769 (Helping street children of Kolkata)
6 Queensdale Place
&nbs
p; London, W11 4SQ, UK
Tel: +91 33 2485 8391 (The full-time staff are in Kolkata, India.)
Email: [email protected]
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.futurehope.net
Dr Graham’s Homes Kalimpong Scottish Charity No 016341
(This charity is over 100 years old and helps street children and orphans)
Mrs Jane Steven
Kildarroch, Tweeddale Ave
Gifford, EH41 4QN, Scotland, UK
Tel: 0845 094 8839
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.drgrahamshomes.co.uk
Responsible Travel
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.responsibletravel.com
Goaway and Czech-It-Out ABTA Membership J1602, ATOL 5237 and IATA membership
109/111 Bell Street
London, NW1 6TL
Tel: +44 (0)20 7258 7800
Tel: 0870 890 7800
Email: [email protected]