CHAPTER XXVII.
Revolving years have since rolled on apace, Since patriots here, convened to form we're told, The school to train the military band, And Putnam's fortress still we may behold.
The season was now far advanced. Alida and her brother felt uneasy atbeing so long separated from their father. The rest of the party wereanxious again to see their friends in the city. After tarrying a fewdays at Forsyth's Hotel, they determined to proceed on their way backagain to New-York without delay.
[_Travels_ (chapter IX begins):
As the season was so far advanced, I wished to reach New York without delay.]
They therefore concluded to travel soon, and visit Lake Champlain to itssouthern extremity, then to Saratoga, Albany, taking the Catskillmountains by the way, and inspecting the famous military school of WestPoint.
[_Travels_:
We therefore concluded to travel soon, and visit Lake Champlain to its southern extremity, then to Saratoga, Albany, and further down the Hudson to New York, taking the Catskill mountains by the way, and inspecting the famous military school of West Point. ...]
The greatest breadth of Lake Champlain, which contains several largeislands, is six miles. The shore on the right, belonging to the state ofNew-York, is low and covered with trees; the other belongs to Vermont,and is more mountainous. As night approached, they were prevented frombeholding this beautiful part of the country; and were also, withregret, prevented from seeing the battle-ground of Plattsburgh, at whichtown the vessel made a short stay during the night, and then proceededto Burlington, in Vermont, and towards morning passed by the ruins ofFort Crown Point, which lie on a hill.
[_Travels_:
The greatest breadth of Lake Champlain, which contains several large islands, is six miles. The shore on our right, belonging to the state of New York, is low and covered with trees; the other belongs to Vermont, and is more mountainous. As night approached, we were prevented from enjoying this beautiful part of the country; I was also with regret prevented from seeing the battle ground of Plattsburgh, at which town the vessel made a short stay during the night. Some American custom-house officers came on board, without, however, inquiring after our baggage, and this was a new and not disagreeable circumstance.
The same night we stopped at Burlington in Vermont, and the Grymes' family left us here to go to Boston. I expected to meet this interesting family again in New York in fourteen days. Towards morning we passed the ruins of Fort Crownpoint, which lie on a hill.]
At this place the Lake is very narrow, and resembles a river. The shoresare generally covered with bushes and pine trees, are hilly, and afforda pleasing prospect. They now pursued their journey as far as LakeGeorge, and arrived at the village of Caldwell. The shores of the Lakeare very hilly, the heights are all covered with trees, and are notabove eight hundred feet high. There are several islands in the lake,generally covered with wood, and the scenery around is very handsome.The level of the lake is about three hundred feet higher than that ofLake Champlain. The stream which flows from the former into the latterlake, forms, in its course, a succession of small cascades.
[_Travels_:
At this place the lake is very narrow and resembles a river. The shores are generally covered with bushes and pine trees, are hilly, and afford a pleasing prospect.... ... From Ticonderoga we went in a stage three miles further to Lake George, through a very hilly country. The level of this lake is about three hundred feet higher than that of Lake Champlain; the stream which flows from the former into the latter lake, forms a succession of small cascades, and turns several saw-mills. We arrived at the northern point of Lake George, and entered the steam-boat Mountaineer, which was ready to depart; it was ninety feet long with a machine of sixteen horse-power.
Lake George resembles the Scottish lakes. It is thirty-six miles long, and never more than five miles broad. The shores are very hilly, the heights are all covered with trees, and are not, as it seems to me, above eight hundred feet high. There are several islands in the lake, generally covered with wood.... The scenery is very handsome.... At the southern extremity, however, lies the village of Caldwell, founded about twenty years ago, which, besides a very good and large inn, where we took lodgings, contains several neat houses....]
They left Caldwell at eight o'clock the next day, in two inconvenientcarriages, and passed through a very uninteresting, deep, sandy road, ina hilly part of the country, covered with thorny trees, on their routeto Saratoga Springs, to which the whole fashionable world of the UnitedStates repair in summer, and the fashionables have here the same maniawhich prevails in other countries, to visit the baths in summer, whethersick or well. The distance is twenty-seven miles. On their passage wasseen but one interesting object, the Hudson falls, which river they hadleft at Albany, and reached again nine miles from Caldwell, coming fromthe west.
[_Travels_:
We left Caldwell at eight o'clock the next day, September 11, in two inconvenient carriages, and passed through a very uninteresting, deep, sandy road, in a hilly country, covered with thorny trees, on our route to Saratoga springs, to which the whole fashionable world of the United States repairs in summer, for the fashionables have here the same mania which prevails in other countries, to visit the baths in summer, whether sick or well. The distance is twenty-seven miles. On our passage, we saw but one interesting object--the Hudson falls, which river we had left at Albany, and reached again nine miles from Caldwell, coming from the west.]
These falls are, however, under the name of Glenn's Falls. A village ofthe same name is built in their vicinity, on the rocky shores of theriver. The principal fall is forty feet high. These falls are not to benumbered among the largest, but among the handsomest in the UnitedStates. A constant mist arises from them, and, as the sun shone verybrilliantly, several rainbows were seen at the same time. In the rock,as at Niagara, were some remarkable and deep cavities. At the base ofthe small island which divides the chief fall into two parts,a remarkable cave appears below the falls, leading to the other side ofthe rock. The Hudson is partly navigable above Glenn's Falls, and twomiles farther up, feeds a navigable canal, with thirteen locks, whichruns seven miles north of the Hudson, and there joins Champlain canal.
[_Travels_:
These falls are known under the name of Glenn's Falls. A village of the same name is built in their vicinity, on the rocky shores of the river.... A single rock, on which, also, a saw-mill stands, divides into two parts, the principal fall, which is forty feet high. But there are, both above and below the principal falls, a number of smaller falls, which we could approach with ease, as the water was very low. These falls are not indeed to be numbered among the largest, but among the handsomest falls which I have seen. A constant mist arises from them, and, as the sun shone very brilliantly, we saw several rainbows at the same time. In the rock, as at Niagara, we observed some remarkable and deep cavities.... At the base of the small island, which divides the chief fall into two parts, a remarkable cave appears below the falls, leading to the other side of the rock.... The Hudson is partly navigable above Glenn's Falls, and two miles further up, feeds a navigable canal, with thirteen locks, which runs seven miles north of the Hudson, and then joins Champlain canal.]
The party arrived at Saratoga at two o'clock in the afternoon, andstopped at Congress Hall. The greater part of the company had alreadydeparted, among those who remained was the governor of the state ofNew-York. They were introduced to his Excellency. The gentlemenconversed with him freely, and found him intelligible and refined, andscientific in his conversation.
[_Travels_:
We arrived at Saratoga at two o'clock in the afternoon, and stopped at Congress Hall. The greater part of the company had already departed, so that but forty persons remained; among these was the governor of the state of New York, the celebrated De Witt Clinton. I was immediately introduced to his excellenc
y, and very well received by this great statesman.]
[[During the period spanned by _Alida_ (1811-1816), the governor of New York was Daniel Tompkins.]]
In the evening the company assemble in the large hall in the lowerstory, and pass away the time in music, dancing or conversation, wherethey witness all the politeness, refinement, and hospitality thatcharacterize the Americans.
[_Travels_:
.... In the evening the company assembles in the large halls in the lower story, at this season, alas! by the fire, and pass the time in music, dancing, or conversation....]
The waters of the different springs are generally drank, but baths arealso erected. High Rock spring flows from a white conical lime-stonerock, five feet high. The water is seen in this spring in constantagitation. So much fixed air escapes from it, that an animal held overit, as in the Grotto del Cane, near Naples, cannot live above half aminute.
[_Travels_:
The different springs, which do not lie far from each other in a swampy ground in the same valley, are called Hamilton, Congress, Columbia, Flat Rock, Munroe, High Rock, President, and Red Spring. The water is generally drank, but baths are also erected. High Rock Spring flows from a white conical limestone rock, five feet high, in which there is a round aperture above, about nine inches in diameter, through which the water in the spring is seen in a state of constant agitation. So much fixed air escapes from it, that an animal held over it, as in the Grotto del Cane, near Naples, cannot live above half a minute....]
In a few days they left Saratoga Springs, in a convenient stage, to goto Albany, thirty-six miles distant. They passed through a disagreeableand sandy country. The uniformity was, however, very pleasinglyinterrupted by Saratoga Lake, which is eight miles long.
[_Travels_:
The governor had the kindness to give me some letters for New York, and a letter of introduction to the Shakers of New Lebanon. Furnished with these, we left Saratoga Springs, September 12th, at 9 o'clock, in a convenient stage to go to Albany, thirty-six miles distant. We passed through a disagreeable and sandy country. The uniformity was, however, very pleasingly interrupted by Saratoga lake, which is eight miles long.... ...]
At the small town of Waterford they passed along the left shore of theHudson on a long wooden bridge, to avoid a bad bridge over the Mohawk.They proceeded on their route in the night on a very good road, andpassed through Lansingburgh and Troy. The latter is very handsomelybuilt, and many stores were very well lighted up in the evening. Herethey returned to the right shore of the Hudson, and reached Albany atten o'clock at night.
[_Travels_:
At the small town of Waterford we passed along the left shore of the Hudson on a long wooden bridge, to avoid a bad bridge over the Mohawk. We proceeded on our route in the night on a very good road, and passed through Lansingburg and Troy. The latter is very handsomely built, and many stores are very well lighted up in the evening. Here we returned to the right shore of the Hudson, and reached Albany at 10 o'clock at night. ...]
At eight o'clock next morning they took passage on board the steam-boat,to go down the river as far as the town of Catskill, at the foot of PineOrchard. The company ascended the mountain, which is twelve miles high,in stages. They reached Pine Orchard a little before sunset. Thebuilding on the mountain for the accommodation of visiters, is asplendid establishment. Alida was truly delighted with the landscape itpresented in miniature; where large farms appeared like garden spots,and the Hudson a rivulet, and where sometimes the clouds were seenfloating beneath the eye of the spectator.
[[This paragraph does not appear in _Travels in North America_.]]
The next morning they again took the steam-boat at Catskill to go toHudson, twenty-seven and a half miles from Albany, which they reachedabout noon. This city appears very handsome and lively. On the oppositeside of the river is Athens, between which and Hudson there seems to bemuch communication kept up by a team-boat. A very low island in themiddle of the stream between the two places, rendered this communicationsomewhat difficult at first, as vessels were obliged to make a greatcircuit. To avoid this inconvenience, a canal was cut through theisland, through which the team-boat now passes with ease and rapidity.
[_Travels_:
At ten o'clock we embarked on board the steam-boat Richmond. The banks of the Hudson are very handsome, and here and there well cultivated. From Albany to New York it is one hundred and forty-four miles, and to West Point ninety-six. Hudson, a place twenty-seven and a half miles from Albany, which we reached at noon, seems to be very handsome and lively. We remarked in the harbour several sloops, and on shore some brick stores, five stories high. On the opposite side of the river lies Athens, between which and Hudson there seems to be much communication kept up by a team-boat. A very low island in the middle of the stream between the two places rendered this communication somewhat difficult at first, as vessels were obliged to make a great circuit. To avoid this inconvenience, a canal was cut through the island, through which the team-boat now passes with ease and rapidity.]
This place affords a very fine view of the lofty Catskill mountains.They left the city of Hudson in the afternoon, and arrived at West Pointat eleven o'clock at night, on the right side of the Hudson, and landedat a wharf furnished with a sentry-box. An artillerist stood sentinel.They were obliged to ascend a somewhat steep road in order to reach thehouse which is prepared for the reception of strangers. The buildingbelongs to the government, and is designed for the mess-room of theofficers and cadets. The purveyor for this table is bound by contractwith the government to keep several chambers with beds in order for thereception of the relations of the cadets.
[_Travels_:
This place affords a very fine view of the lofty Catskill Mountains.
About eleven o'clock at night we arrived at West Point, on the right side of the Hudson, and landed at a wharf furnished with a sentry-box. An artillerist, who stood sentinel, examined us. I afterwards discovered that this rule was made on account of the visits which the cadets receive. We were obliged to ascend a somewhat steep road in order to reach the house, which is prepared for the reception of strangers. A small but very clean room was prepared for us. The building belongs to the government, and is designed for the mess-room of the officers and cadets. The purveyor for this table is bound by contract with government to keep several chambers with beds in order, for the reception of the relations of the cadets, and thus a kind of inn arose.]
The morning after their arrival, the gentlemen paid an early visit tolieutenant-colonel Thayer, superintendent of the military school, andwere received in a very friendly manner. He had presided over thisschool several years. Colonel Thayer has entirely remodelled thisinstitution, and very much improved it.
[_Travels_:
The morning after our arrival we paid an early visit to lieutenant-colonel Thayer, superintendent of the military school, and were received in a very friendly manner. He has presided over this school eight years. It was founded in 1802, during the presidency of Jefferson. Colonel Thayer has entirely remodelled this institution. During his travels in Europe he visited the French military schools, and has endeavoured to make this resemble the polytechnic school. But he will find it difficult to equal this once celebrated school, as with the best will in the world he cannot find in this country such excellent professors as were assembled in that institution.]
[[Sylvanus Thayer (1785-1872) was Superintendent of West Point from 1817 to 1833.]]
The cadets, whose number may amount to two hundred and fifty, aredivided into four classes for the purposes of instruction. They arereceived between the ages of fourteen and twenty, and must undergo anexamination before they enter.
[_Travels_:
The cadets, whose number may amount to two hundred and fifty, but at the last examination consisted of two hundred and twenty-one, are divided into four classes for the purposes
of instruction. They are received between the ages of fourteen and twenty, undergo an examination before they enter....]
Instruction is communicated gratuitously to the cadets, each of whomreceives monthly eight dollars from government as wages.
[_Travels_:
Instruction is communicated gratuitously to the cadets, each of whom receives monthly eight dollars from government as wages.]
A public examination of the cadets takes place every year at the end ofJune, by a commission appointed by the Secretary of War. This commissionconsists of staff officers from the army and navy, members of Congress,governors of states, learned men and other distinguished citizens. Afterthis examination, the best among those who have finished their courseare appointed as officers in the army.
[_Travels_:
A public examination of the cadets takes place every year at the end of June, by a commission, appointed by the secretary of war. This commission consists of staff-officers from the army and navy, members of congress, governors of states, learned men, and other distinguished citizens. After this examination, the best among those who have finished their course are appointed as officers in the army.... ...]
The cadets live in two large massive buildings, three stories high, andare divided into four companies. The institution possesses fourprincipal buildings. The two largest serve as barracks for the cadets,a third contains the mess-room, and the fourth the church. A large levelspace, consisting of several acres, lies in front of the buildings,forming a peninsula, and commanding the navigation of the Hudson, abovewhich it is elevated one hundred and eighty-eight feet. Towards theriver it is surrounded by steep rocks, so that it is difficult toascend, unless by the usual way.
[_Travels_:
.... The cadets are divided in four companies, and live in two large massive buildings, three stories high.... ... The institution possesses four principal buildings. The two largest serve as barracks for the cadets, a third contains the messroom and inn, and the fourth the church, chemical laboratory, library, and the hall for drawing, in which are some of the best drawings of the cadets....
A large level space, consisting of several acres, lies in front of the buildings, forming a peninsula and commanding the navigation of the Hudson, above which it is elevated one hundred and eighty-eight feet. Towards the river it is surrounded with steep rocks, so that it would be difficult to ascend, unless by the usual way.... ...]
The party now ascended the rocky mountain on which are to be seen theruins of Fort Putnam. The way led through a handsome forest of oak,beech, chestnut and walnut trees. The fort occupying the summit of themountain, was erected in an indented form, of strong granite, and isaltogether inaccessible on the side next the enemy. It had but a singleentrance, with very strong casemates. It was built on private propertyduring the revolution; the owner of the ground claimed it, andgovernment were obliged to restore it. The government afterwardsacquired the ground on which West Point stands, as well as the adjoiningheights.
[_Travels_:
Notwithstanding my injured side, I ascended the rocky mountain on which the ruins of Fort Putnam lie. My way led through a handsome forest of oak, beech, chesnut, and walnut trees. The fort occupied the summit of the mountain, was erected in an indented form, of strong granite, and is altogether inaccessible on the side next the enemy. It had but a single entrance, with very strong casemates, and two small powder-magazines. It was built during the revolution on private property; the owner of the ground claimed it, and government were obliged to restore it to him, after which he destroyed the fort. The government afterwards acquired the ground on which West Point stands, as well as the adjoining heights....]
A very fine view one may have from Fort Putnam of the plains of WestPoint and of the Hudson river. The view to the north is particularlyhandsome, in which direction Newburgh, lying on the river, is seen inthe back ground.
[_Travels_:
A very fine view is enjoyed from Fort Putnam of the plain of West Point, and of the Hudson, which here calls to mind the high banks of the Rhine. The view to the north is particularly handsome, in which direction Newburgh, lying on the river, is seen in the back ground. We saw nothing of the Catskill mountains. ...]
A band of music, paid by the government, belongs exclusively to thecadets, and is said to afford the best military music in the UnitedStates.
[_Travels_:
.... A band of music, paid by the government, belongs exclusively to them, and is said to afford the best military music in the United States. Every one has his taste....]
[[This passage is out of sequence. In _Travels_ it appears about midway between the paragraphs beginning "A large level space..." and "Notwithstanding my injured side..."]]
The party generally regretted leaving this agreeable place, where theyhad been highly gratified during their short stay. They took passage onboard the steamboat Constitution, bound to New-York, sixty milesdistant.
[_Travels_:
I was very sorry that we were obliged on the third day after our arrival to leave this agreeable place, which had so extremely pleased me; but I was obliged to go to New York at last!...]
[_Travels_ (Baltimore chapter):
We went on board the steam-boat Constitution.]
They were now again on their way to one of the most flourishing citiesin the United States, which attracts a great part of the commerce of theAmerican nation. They came into the vicinity about sunset, and at eighto'clock in the evening they landed in New-York. Leaving their friends inthe city, Albert and his sister took passage in a stage coach nextmorning, and journeyed in a short time as far as the village of ----,and from thence proceeded on to the residence of their father.
[_Travels_:
.... After sundown we came into the vicinity of New York, the largest city in the United States, which attracts nearly the whole commerce of the country, and now already numbers one hundred and seventy thousand inhabitants. We landed about eight o'clock in the evening....]
[[_Travels in North America_ ends here.]]
Alida; or, Miscellaneous Sketches of Incidents During the Late American War. Page 66