MAKE THE ALIGOT ESPUMA
Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C). Wrap the potatoes in aluminum foil and place on a baking tray. Bake until the potatoes are cooked through and fork-tender, 45 to 60 minutes (cooking time will vary depending on potato size). Remove and set the potatoes aside to cool for 20 minutes. Unwrap the potatoes and cut each one in half lengthwise. Scoop about 1 cup (225 grams) of the flesh out of the skins. Discard the skins and any extra flesh, and press the flesh through a ricer.
In a Thermomix, combine the riced potatoes, the milk, and the water. While blending, bring the mixture to 167°F (75°C). Add the cheese and cook and blend the mixture until completely emulsified. Add the xanthan gum and season with fleur de sel and pepper. Turn off the heat and blend in the egg white. Strain the mixture into a small siphon canister and charge with one N2O cartridge. Keep the mixture warm (around 140°F or 60°C) until needed.
MAKE THE POTATO FONDANT
Cut the potatoes into 1¼ × ¾-inch barrels. Put the potatoes, fleur de sel, and butter in a vacuum bag and seal at 100 percent vacuum. Bring a water bath in an immersion circulator to 194°F (90°C) and add the bag. Cook until the potatoes are just cooked through and tender but still retaining their shape, about 40 minutes.
Remove the potatoes from the bag and drain. Use a ¼-inch punch to punch through the center of each potato barrel lengthwise to form a hollow cylinder, discarding the center. Heat a large, heavy pan over low to medium heat and add the potato cylinders and the duck fat. Cook until the potatoes are lightly browned, then pour in the chicken stock. Cook until the stock forms a syrupy consistency, about 5 minutes. Add the truffle juice and peppercorns to the pan and stir to just combine. Spoon the glaze over the potatoes and cook for 1 more minute. The potatoes should retain their shape and be tender to the bite. Season to taste and remove the potatoes from the pan.
TO ASSEMBLE THE DISH
Pipe the warm espuma into the center of each fondant. Top each filled fondant with a pommes maxim, sprinkle with fleur de sel, and serve.
CLARIFIED BUTTER To clarify butter, put it in a small, heavy pot and patiently melt it over low heat, not allowing it to brown. As the butter melts, the milk solids will separate. Remove the pot from the heat, use a tablespoon to skim off those solids that have risen to the top, and carefully pour out the butter fat, taking care to leave any solids at the bottom of the pot behind.
WHITE ASPARAGUS
SERVES 6 AS AN APPETIZER, 2 SPEARS PER SERVING
My method for cooking asparagus. These may be served on their own or dressed with the Plum Extra-Virgin Olive Oil.
2 large spears white asparagus, peeled with a vegetable peeler
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons (20 grams) hazelnut oil
1 cup (10 grams) fresh orange peel, removed in strips with no pith attached
1 teaspoon (5 grams) fleur de sel
1 tablespoon (10 grams) freshly squeezed lemon juice
Put the asparagus, hazelnut oil, orange peel, fleur de sel, and lemon juice in a large vacuum bag and seal at 100 percent vacuum. Bring a water bath in an immersion circulator to 185°F (85°C) and add the bag. Cook until the asparagus is just cooked through but still crisp and slightly firm to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes. (Pinch the asparagus through the plastic to check for doneness.)
Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Use tongs to remove the bag from the water bath and set aside at room temperature for 15 minutes, then further cool in the ice water until the spears are 34°F (1.1°C), 1½ to 2 hours.
Remove the bag from the ice bath and remove the asparagus spears. Use a kitchen towel to dry the spears and store the asparagus in the refrigerator until ready to use. Serve cold.
STILTON–GREEN GARLIC CRÈME
MAKES 1 PINT (473 MILLILITERS)
1½ teaspoons (2.5 grams) unsalted butter
1 cup thinly sliced sweet onions, such as Vidalia (100 grams sliced)
¾ cup (150 grams) thinly sliced ramps plus 3 tablespoons (28 grams) ramp greens (leaves)
Fleur de sel
Freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup (175 grams) skim milk
1 large (40 grams) egg, brought to room temperature
0.5 gram xanthan gum (see Sources)
1½ ounces (42.5 grams) Stilton cheese
2 tablespoons (40 grams) mascarpone cheese
Heat a large, heavy pan over medium-low heat. Add the butter and let it melt to coat the pan. Add the onions and ¾ cup ramps, and cook gently until tender but not browned, about 4 minutes. Slice the ramp greens into thin slivers.
Season the cooking vegetables with the fleur de sel and pepper. Pour in the milk, cover with a cartouche (see Note), and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 25 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened, then uncover the pan and stir in the ramp greens. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool for 10 minutes.
Soft-poach the egg, by first heating a water bath in an immersion circulator to 145°F (62.7°C). Put the whole egg directly into the bath and cook for 45 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and crack to open.
Transfer the contents of the pan to a high-speed blender and blend until a smooth puree forms, about 2 minutes. With the motor running, sprinkle in the xanthan gum, then add the poached egg, Stilton, and mascarpone. Blend until the mixture is completely emulsified, about 2 more minutes. Season with fleur de sel and pepper. Set a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer over a large bowl and strain the mixture. Set aside to cool.
When ready to use, warm the puree in a medium pot over low heat, but do not allow it to boil.
CARTOUCHE A cartouche is a parchment-paper lid that slows the reduction of liquids and helps prevent ingredients from over-browning. To make a cartouche, begin with a square piece of parchment paper slightly larger than the vessel the cartouche will cover. (Waxed paper may also be used.) Fold the square in half, then in half again. Keeping one open end as the “top” of the cartouche, fold the square diagonally into a triangle, and continue to fold the triangle over and over, keeping an open side as the top, until the bottom tip has narrowed to a point. Holding the tip of the cartouche over the very center of the pan, cut off any paper from the open back end that extends beyond the edge of the pan. Open the paper into a circle.
TAPIOCA CELERY JUS
MAKES 10 SERVINGS
Noble Sour vinegar is a crucial ingredient in this recipe. It can be difficult to find, but may be available from local specialty and gourmet shops.
1 cup (150 grams) small pearl tapioca
4 stalks celery, washed, 15 leaves reserved, washed, delicately dried, and cut into chiffonade
1½ cups (375 grams) White Chicken Stock (recipe follows)
¼ cup (100 grams) celery juice
1 teaspoon (5 grams) truffle juice (see Sources)
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) Noble Sour vinegar, to taste
1 teaspoon (10 grams) minced fresh black truffle
1 teaspoon (10 grams) finely diced green mango
15 leaves cilantro, washed, delicately dried, and cut into chiffonade
Fleur de sel
Freshly ground black pepper
Put the tapioca in a medium bowl, cover with cold water, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.
When you’re ready to proceed, strain the soaked tapioca through a fine-mesh strainer set over the sink. Heat a medium, heavy pot over low heat. Add the tapioca and celery to the pot, then pour in the chicken stock to cover the tapioca. Bring to a simmer and lower the heat to maintain a simmer without allowing the stock to boil. Cook, stirring continuously, until the tapioca is translucent and thickened, about 20 minutes. Stir in the celery juice and cook over low heat for 5 minutes.
Remove the pot from the heat and set a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer over a medium bowl. Pass the mixture through the strainer, pressing on the solids with a spatula, to extract as much flavorful jus as possible. Discard the solids and set the liquid aside to cool. (The jus can be stored in an airtight container in the ref
rigerator for up to three days.)
When ready to serve, stir the truffle juice and vinegar into the jus, then gently stir in the black truffle, green mango, celery leaves, and cilantro leaves. Reheat gently in a small pot, season with fleur de sel and pepper, and stir to incorporate.
WHITE CHICKEN STOCK
MAKES 2 GALLONS (8 LITERS)
2.6 gallons (10 liters) cold water
8 pounds (3.6 kilograms) whole chickens (hearts, gizzard, and neck, if present, removed and discarded or saved for another use)
4 stalks lemongrass, smashed and thinly sliced
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
4 Spanish onions, very thinly sliced
2 heads garlic, smashed and peeled
½ bunch lemon thyme (regular thyme may be substituted)
5 bay leaves, preferably fresh
20 whole black peppercorns
Heat a very large, heavy stockpot over medium heat and add the water, chickens, lemongrass, carrots, onions, garlic, lemon thyme, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Bring to a simmer and cook for 2 hours. Adjust the heat as necessary to keep the liquid from boiling. Use a tablespoon to skim off any fat and impurities that rise to the surface.
Remove the pot from the heat and set aside at room temperature for 10 minutes. Skim off any remaining fat that rises to the surface. Strain the mixture through a cheesecloth-lined strainer to remove any stray particles. (The stock can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to one week, or divided into smaller airtight containers and refrigerated for up to one month.)
BLOWFISH WITH VADOUVAN SPICE AND BURNT LAUREL
MAKES 6 SERVINGS, 2 PIECES PER SERVING
Make this dish with East Coast blowfish, not the notorious Japanese fugu, which can be toxic. (You will likely need to ask your fishmonger to special order the fish in advance.)
¼ cup (30 grams) fleur de sel
5 cups (1,000 grams) cold water
12 pieces blowfish loin, about 3 ounces (85 grams) each
3 tablespoons (30 grams) vadouvan spice (see Sources)
2 tablespoons (15 grams) extra-virgin olive oil
24 pieces laurel leaf (aka fresh bay leaf)
Make a salt brine by combining the fleur de sel and the water in a medium, heavy pot. Bring to a boil over high heat and allow the salt to fully dissolve. Remove the pot from the heat, let the liquid cool, transfer to an airtight container, and refrigerate overnight.
Arrange the blowfish loin pieces in a glass baking dish or other shallow vessel in a single layer, and pour the salt brine over the pieces to submerge them. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Remove the blowfish and rinse under cold running water for 10 seconds. Thoroughly pat the blowfish dry with a paper towel. Line a baking tray with a kitchen towel and top with the blowfish pieces. Place another towel on top and put the tray in the refrigerator to dry the blowfish for 2 hours.
Put the vadouvan spice and oil in a medium mixing bowl and stir together with a spoon until incorporated. Remove the blowfish from the refrigerator and dress each piece with the spiced oil, turning to coat evenly. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight to cure the blowfish.
Preheat the broiler to high. Line a sheet tray with a Silpat and place the blowfish on the tray. Arrange 2 laurel leaves over each piece of fish. Place the tray under the broiler and broil, until the outside of the blowfish is lightly caramelized and the leaves are just lightly smoldering, not blackened, 4 to 6 minutes. The blowfish should register an internal temperature of 118°F (48°C) on a digital thermometer. Remove the tray from the broiler and set aside to rest for 5 minutes before serving.
VADOUVAN SPICE Vadouvan is a variation on garam masala that combines onions, shallots, and garlic with spices found in Indian curry. There are many different blends; ours features cardamom, cumin, black pepper, dry orange, fennel seed, and anise.
BRAISED LAMB NECK
SERVES 6
Here I share the recipe for the neck preparation that is pictured on this page. Note that the marinade needs to be refrigerated for three days and that the lamb itself must be patiently cooked for seven hours, then refrigerated overnight to set its shape. But it is worth the effort. This dish is made with lamb neck, which has a perfect balance of meat and fat. It’s a muscle that has a phenomenal flavor—not as gamy as leg and not as mild as a loin of lamb. For the best flavor and marbling, make this with a cut from a young spring lamb. This dish would pair well with Moroccan elements such as couscous with candied almonds, raisins, and feta.
FOR THE LAMB NECK MARINADE
15 pods (3.75 grams) green cardamom
2 heads garlic, separated into cloves, peeled, halved lengthwise, germ removed (100 grams peeled cloves)
2 medium shallots, thinly sliced (50 grams sliced)
3 sprigs thyme, stems only
1 teaspoon (15 grams) whole coffee beans, preferably Arabica
1½ pounds (700 grams) lamb neck, off bone (ask your butcher to debone the neck before weighing out the meat), cut into 4-inch segments
FOR THE BRAISING LIQUID
½ sprig flat-leaf parsley
½ star anise
2½ teaspoons (12.5 grams) fennel seeds
¹⁄8 teaspoon (0.16 gram) whole black peppercorns
¹⁄8 teaspoon (0.16 gram) whole cumin seeds
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon (5 grams) lamb fat or duck fat (both available on request from many butchers)
2 medium cloves garlic, peeled, halved lengthwise, germ removed (12 grams peeled cloves)
½ medium shallot, thinly sliced (25 grams sliced)
1 stalk lemongrass, smashed with the edge of a chef’s knife and thinly sliced (100 grams sliced)
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced (6.25 grams sliced)
1½ cups (200 grams) robust red wine such as Shiraz
¼ cup (25 grams) red wine vinegar
½ cup (75 grams) nut brown ale such as Newcastle Brown Ale
4 cups (800 grams) Brown Chicken Stock (recipe follows)
MAKE THE LAMB NECK MARINADE
Heat a medium, heavy pan over medium heat. Add the cardamom pods to the pan and toast them, shaking the pan to prevent browning or scorching, until they are fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Set the pan aside and let the pods cool, then transfer them to a spice grinder and grind them.
Put the garlic, shallots, thyme, coffee beans, and ground cardamom in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Pulse until a paste forms. Put the lamb pieces in a baking dish in a single layer and rub the marinade over the meat, thoroughly coating all sides. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for three days.
MAKE THE BRAISING LIQUID
Preheat the oven to 250°F (121°C). Put the parsley, star anise, fennel seeds, peppercorns, and cumin seeds in the center of a 6-inch-square piece of cheesecloth. Gather up the cheesecloth by the corners and tie it closed with kitchen twine to make a sachet. Remove the lamb from the marinade and brush off any excess solids. Season the lamb with salt and pepper.
Heat a large, heavy Dutch oven or other wide, deep pot over medium-high heat. Add the lamb or duck fat and let it melt, coating the bottom of the pan. Add the lamb pieces and sear, using a pair of tongs to turn the lamb as it lightly browns, about 2 minutes per side. Once the lamb is evenly browned, remove it from the pot and set it aside.
Turn the heat down to low and add the garlic, shallot, lemongrass, and ginger to the Dutch oven. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the vegetables are browned, about 5 minutes. Pour in the red wine, red wine vinegar, and the ale and add the sachet. Use the spoon to scrape off any flavorful bits stuck to the bottom of the Dutch oven. Bring the liquids to a boil, then lower the heat so the liquid is simmering and continue to simmer until the liquid has reduced by half, about 8 minutes.
Set a small wire rack in the Dutch oven, atop the reduced vegetable mixture. Arrange the seared lamb on top of the r
ack so that the lamb and other solids are separated, and pour in the chicken stock to cover by ¼ inch. Cover with a cartouche, then cover the Dutch oven with aluminum foil and place in the oven. Braise until the lamb neck is very tender, about 7 hours.
Remove the Dutch oven from the oven and set aside to let the lamb cool. Once cool, remove the lamb and arrange it in a small, shallow pan, making sure there is no space between the pieces. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and top with a pan of equal size, pressing down to help shape the lamb into even blocks. Move the pans to the refrigerator and let sit overnight.
Strain the braising liquid through a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer, discarding the solids. Refrigerate the liquid in an airtight container.
Remove the lamb from the refrigerator and use a sharp knife to trim it into 1 × 1-inch blocks. Rewrap the lamb with the plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve it.
When ready to serve, pour the braising liquid into a large pot and bring to a simmer over low heat. Simmer until the sauce reaches a syrup-like consistency. Add the lamb to the pot and very gently reheat (the lamb will be very tender), glazing it with the reduced braising liquid until the lamb is glazed and lightly warmed through, but still retaining its shape, about 4 minutes. The lamb can be stored in airtight containers, covered in plastic, and reserved in the refrigerator for up to three days.
BROWN CHICKEN STOCK
MAKES 4.2 QUARTS (4 LITERS)
This rich stock, an enhancement of my standard White Chicken Stock, makes a good base for braising liquids, meat-style jus, or a sauce base for meaty fish such as monkfish.
1 cup (200 grams) peanut oil
To the Bone Page 17