by Stuart Kells
Wednesday, 18 October 1922
Yesterday Mr Garvie, Mac, Billie Askwith and I walked to Perth and back, a distance of at least twenty-five miles. We left the Bendigo at 9.20am and after walking for about three-quarters of an hour a car stopped alongside us and the owner offered us a lift. He took us for about three miles. When we were about three miles from Perth we stopped for over half an hour to bathe our feet in the Swan River. It was topping and very refreshing. When we arrived at Perth we visited a few shops and bought some cake and cheese. Also a bottle of lime juice and soda. We had bought with us some rolls, bread and butter, and marmalade from the Bendigo.
We then sat down in the Park and had our dinner. We were all very tired and enjoyed it very much. It rained on and off most of the day, but it was hardly worthwhile putting our coats on. Apart from this the weather was very nice for a walk, neither too hot nor too cold. After dinner we did some sightseeing. The main streets are very fine and I was very pleased with the place. We saw the Government House, Y.M.C.A., several churches, and in the later part of the afternoon we went to the pictures as it was raining. When we came out we went for a short walk and had a topping cup of coffee and some toast. While we were in the café, Mr Morgan came. We told him how we had come, what we had seen and done, and how we were going back. He left us and in less than two minutes he came in again, placed a bag on the table and left again before we could say a word. The bag contained a dozen bananas. We had one each, all round, and placed the rest in the tin (we brought our grub from the Bendigo in a tin) for the return journey.
We walked for two solid hours before we stopped to have supper. We left Perth about 7.30pm and started our supper at 9.30pm. We had rolls, and butter and marmalade, bananas, some cake, a good lump of chocolate and a loquat (which is about the size of a plum, fairly hard, rather big pips or one very big one, and tastes slightly acid; it is very refreshing and I like them very much). Also, at the first fruit shop we came to Mr Garvie bought us a nice, juicy apple each.
Well, we started off again after half an hour interval. We all staggered along the road like drunken men, our legs would hardly hold us up. All our muscles were stiff and the stiffness did not wear off during the remaining four miles. When we got near the ship we pulled ourselves together and marched up the gangway in fine style. When I got to the cabin and sat down I was pretty well done up. I took off my shoes and my feet hurt terribly. I found I had three big blisters: one which was broken on my left heel; one big one on the underneath of my big right toe; and another on the side of it. I managed to scramble into the bunk somehow, after undressing, and immediately fell asleep. Now comes the last straw that broke the camel’s back. We arrived on the boat at 11pm and I was asleep by half-past. After just over half an hour’s sleep I was awakened by Mr Garvie and informed that we had all got to dress and go on deck as there was a fire in number two hatch.
I am afraid I used some rather strong language and told everybody to let me stay there and be roasted. I wished the person who started the fire in a very warm place, even warmer than the fire he had caused. Anyhow when everybody had left amid much swearing, and the cabin began to fill up with stifling smoke, I managed to tumble out of the bunk, put on some shoes and drag my aching, weary and blistered feet out.
More asleep than awake I found myself at the scene of the fire. The hatchway, which had been battered down, had been hastily pulled up. Strong lights had been obtained but they could scarcely penetrate the dense smoke. A ladder was being let down and right down in the hold could distinctly be seen, with the aid of the strong lights, men wearing gas-masks and playing a hose on some of the cargo. Presently an order came up to stop the water and soon afterwards another order to rig up a crane and hoist up the most badly damaged cases of cargo. When I had seen a couple come up, I turned in again and fell asleep before anybody else came into the cabin. I missed breakfast next morning, but I was very pleased that I had gone for the walk. The trees and flowers were very beautiful and I had seen some bush for the first time.
Thursday, 19 October 1922
We left Fremantle before I got up this morning and are now speeding on our way to Adelaide. Yesterday afternoon Mr Garvie, Billie, Mac and I went for a walk up the Swan River and afterwards for a row. While we were walking, we came upon a garden in which were growing bananas, oranges – a lot of fruits we never see in the Old Country – and some sugar-cane. Mr Garvie bought some of the latter.
While we were rowing up the river we were struck by the depth of it. Some of the places in the middle were not more than four feet deep and our oars kept touching the river bed, and yet in other places, ten feet from the shore, the water was twenty feet deep. The tugs which went up and down the river had to zig-zag all over the place. We saw some cormorants, which are birds that can stay under the water for several minutes on end and can swim a long way in that time. Also we saw some gulls.
In Perth I saw a lot of books from The Bodley Head; also a few in Fremantle.
Fruit was a good bit dearer than in Cape Town, but other things were cheaper. Pineapples 1/6–2/6; apples four to eight pence per pound; oranges one shilling to 2/6 a dozen; passionfruit two shillings a dozen; lemons one shilling a dozen; loquats eight pence per pound; Cape gooseberry seven pence per pound; tomatoes four to six pence per pound; bananas 1/6 to two shillings a dozen; strawberries 14/6–17/6 per dozen punnets; sugar-cane six pence per stick; sweets from 7½ pence per pound; cake from nine pence per pound; tea from eleven pence per pound; matches from 5½ doz. boxes; meat (good joint) at four pence per pound; butter (best) two shillings per pound; good chocolate (very best) three shillings per pound; chocolates from 1/6 per pound; cheese (good) one shilling per pound; dried prunes ten pence per pound; peaches, apricots (dried) 1/3–1/9 per pound. Shirt collars etc. about the same price as the Old Country. Tobacco (fairly good) at nine pence per ounce. English cigarettes very dear – Turf (large) two shillings for twenty. In Cape Town, Greys were two shillings for twenty. Cream, about 2/6 per pint. Meals were very cheap. Three-course dinner 1/3–1/9; very good tea from nine pence to one shilling. Postage was very dear. Billie sent home a few pamphlets about Cape Town, in a fairly large envelope, for 1/10; letter and lettercards two pence each.
The railway fare from Fremantle to Perth was 1/10 return, for twenty-four miles.
Stevenson had very good luck. Some relations, who he did not know anything of, met him with a car and he went to their home, about thirty miles off. They gave him a topping time. He slept there two nights and when he went away they gave him a small sack of fruit (oranges, lemons etc.).
Whenever we stop at a port the sailors always spread sand all over the deck. I suppose this keeps the dirt from the wood and it is soon washed away when we start off again.
Mr Garvie, Mr Tyler and Mr Tomlins, with another, share the same four-berth cabin. The other man is a Scotchman and is usually referred to as the ‘old man’. Every time he goes on shore he gets drunk; it was he who was brought to the ship after we had left Cape Town the first time. He is very canny and keeps all his money in a metal box, double padlocked, and he only takes out enough to get properly drunk on – usually ten shillings a time. He was tight Monday and Tuesday night, and last night after he had been brought on board I went and had a look at him.
He was lying on his bunk, his clothes covered in dirt, dust and mud. He had been sick all over his chin, clothes and bunk. I will not try to describe him any further, but the very sight of him ought to be enough to keep me from drink; at least I hope it will. Last night I saw a person, younger than myself, tight. Also the doctor was drunk. Mr Tyler and Mr Tomlins refused to sleep in the same cabin, so they shifted off. But Mr Garvie said he would stick there for the night and give him a good telling off as soon as he was in a fit state to understand anything.
The sea looks very calm today, but there is a very heavy swell and the boat is pitching a lot. I saw two whales this morning. One of them was a very big one. He was about a mile out and yet his tail looked huge wh
en he switched it up in the air. Both of them were spouting a good deal.
A boat came into Fremantle last night from Sydney. It belonged to an Australian line which plies between those and intervening ports, and was of about 9,000 tons. It had three classes, and the third was a lot better than us.
They are just swinging the lead; not the hand one, but they have a small machine to do it. Using wire instead of rope and having a small thermometer near the lead.
I spoke to Mr Thompson this morning. He is a relation of Mr Woodland. I believe he is Mr Woodland’s son’s brother-in-law. This is the first time I spoke to him although he very often sits just in front of me on the deck. He was born in Bristol and knows it very well. He says he would not live in the Old Country now for anything.
Nobody out here calls England ‘England’. Occasionally some call it Blighty, but they usually call it the Old Country, as I am trying to get into doing. I am a ‘Pommy’. That is the name given to a person just out from the Old Country. I cannot disguise myself – my mug is too red, and I suppose I shall be a Pommy until it turns more brown and sunburnt.
Mr Garvie says he expects I shall end up by being called ‘Peachy’; my nickname on the boat is ‘Nellie’. One day during the few warm days at the beginning of the voyage I appeared on deck, with my hair very nicely done and my nice sweater on with a very low neck, and somebody called me ‘Nellie’ and it has stuck to me ever since. Why I had put some Brilliantine on was that I had had several salt baths and my hair wanted oiling. Fancy calling me ‘Nellie’, just for doing my hair. It shows how often I brush my hair – about as often as I clean my shoes. Every time I appear on deck with really clean shoes I hear remarks about them having had their ‘annual’.
You may remember my referring to the mad boy. His real name is Bourne, but he is usually called ‘Luny’ or ‘Lupy’. Well, I am afraid he will not be allowed to land in Adelaide but will be sent back home. He is a lot better and works in the bakery all day, but he went a bit too far when he walked into the purser’s office and tried to convert him. I am very sorry for him.
When we were examined by the doctor at ‘Freeo’ all he did was to look at the palms of our hands and the backs of our wrists. He did not take a second over it. Another doctor, who was examining the Sydney and Melbourne passengers, looked at their foreheads as well. We have been on the Bendigo six weeks today and that is six weeks too long. Thank goodness there are only a few more days. But in some ways I shall be sorry to leave the boat because I have made a lot of friends.
Mrs and Miss Ker have gone on to Adelaide by train, but the Rev. Ker is going by boat. The railway expenses from Fremantle to Adelaide are £7.7.0 per person. The Rev. Ker lived in Colombo for six years and knew Mac’s father quite well. He also remembers the four kids. The world is quite small in some ways.
The P&O Branch service boats are not allowed to pick up passengers from one port in Australia to another port as this does not comply with the Australian Government. The Government wants Australian ships to get that trade. So there are a good many empty cabins on the boat. About six cabins down forward have had to move but we have not. I only wish we could because we could not possibly get a worse one.
Have I told you that Mrs Petheram is travelling with Mr Mills, who is slightly related to her? He is going to Australia, but he has not got a job. I think he is an accountant. He used to live in Tyndall’s Park.
The little act of Mr Morgan, when he placed a dozen bananas on the table of the café in Perth, is characteristic of him. He is always doing good and saying nothing about it and getting no credit for it. Although he is short of stature, he is big in mind, character, brains, kindness and many other good qualities. During all the time I have known him (six weeks) I have never found any fault in him. This is not a reference but the solid truth. It is a pleasure to be under him. I am sure I do not know what the Y.M.C.A. in England is doing without him. They must feel his absence greatly. His influence on board is very great, though he rarely makes it felt.
His wife is staying at ‘Weston-on-Mud’ and he may come and see you when he is in Bristol. He never touches a boy in anger – in fact, I have never seen him in a temper – because he says that when you hit a boy you show you have no power over him. This, of course, does not apply to young kids. In my opinion, a father certainly ought to chastise his youngsters when necessary. I do not know what Mr Morgan thinks about this. Unfortunately, pupils on board do not appreciate him as much as they should, although he is fairly popular.
He is not at all well although it is the last thing he would acknowledge to that he was bad. With him no. 1, without exception, comes last and not first as it is with some people on board. Although I must say everybody has been very generous to me.
There are two stowaways on board. They walked up the gangway as bold as brass and took possession of a decent cabin that was empty. They slept there last night. When they were asked this morning if they had paid their fare they replied no, why should they?
Friday, 20 October 1922
I was talking to Mr and Mrs Thompson this morning and they told me that the last place they were staying at, before joining the boat, was Bristol. I think they said that they were there five weeks. They are going to the Fiji Islands. They told me that there are no taxes there – no income tax, or any other kind of tax. They were going to settle down in the Old Country, but the weather was so rotten that they couldn’t stick it at any price. They like England, but not the climate. The next best place they like after the Old Country is New Zealand. They are related to Mr Woodland.
We can still see land and have not yet entered the Bight. I saw a very large school of dolphins this morning. Some of them were huge. The water was so clear that you could see the dolphins under the water, then they would suddenly jump clean out of the water. There were hundreds of birds around them.
In Perth, one of the first things that I noticed were notices on the pavements: ‘Keep to the left.’ Also, in some of the main streets there was a broad white line in the middle of the pavement – parallel to the road – with a big arrow pointing to the left hand side of it at every corner. I noticed that nearly everybody did keep to the left. The Rev. Ker was walking on the right when a policeman stopped him and asked him to keep to the left.
The albatrosses are again following us. When we got near Fremantle they suddenly disappeared and when we left it they came back. I heard that they can travel at sixty miles an hour and I quite believe it.
Saturday, 21 October 1922
Last night about 4.45pm, just after the bell for first sitting for tea had gone, I was leaning over the rails on the port side of the boat when suddenly I saw a huge fish rise up in the water, swimming directly at the bows. It seemed inevitable that it would collide with the boat and it did, although it glided back into the water just before the impact. It was a whale and it must have been fairly badly hurt for as we looked over the side we could see big patches of disturbed water – something like the view at the stern where the propellers make it, but in this case it was the whale. I could not say if it was killed or not, but when the albatrosses sighted the disturbed water they all immediately hovered around it and presently they settled down on something. It may have been the unfortunate whale or they may have settled down on the water close to it. Anyhow, it was too far to see and I suppose I shall never know if it was killed or not. There is not the slightest doubt that it was a whale, as several people saw it who have seen hundreds of whales and they all said it was one.
After tea I saw a lot more whales. They were all spouting.
There was a beautiful sunset last night. I took a couple of snaps and I only hope they come out decently.
The Rev. Ker said yesterday that if I publish this diary he will write a preface. I am sure this is worth remembering. I had better write to Allen and ask him when he can publish it and what will be the cost of the book: 1/6 or £5.5.0, it does not make much difference to me. I can enclose a few photographs if he intends to make it a £5.5.0
touch.
I was talking to a man last night who was born in Redruth. His father is an unemployed Cornish tin miner. You may have heard something about the distress caused in Cornwell by the closing down of the tin mines. I believe a choir of the distressed miners visited Bristol and I heard rumours about £500 being collected for them. His name is Mr Trewella and he knows Rev. Bryant and Mr Floyd very well. Also, he knew the choir and choirmaster. He told me that Mr Floyd has gone weak-minded over all the worry and had to be put in an asylum for six months, but he is better now. Mr Trewella and his wife had tea with him just before they came away. Mrs Trewella has sung at most of the concerts on board.
It is very strange looking at a lighthouse when the boat is rolling badly. The lighthouse appears to move up and down. One flash is near the sea and next is right up among the stars. The last lighthouse I saw was just before we entered the Bight. It flashed once every four seconds.
Mr Tyler and Mr Tomlins are giving ‘letters of introduction’ to clergymen to members of the Anglican Church. I do not want one as ‘George Robey’ gave me one. Well, anyhow, one of the lads asked for one. Mr Tyler inquired if he was a communicant and the boy replied that he did not know what that was. Mr Tyler then asked him if he had been confirmed. The lad replied, ‘Oh yes’. But when asked if he had got his confirmation card the lad replied, ‘No, I haven’t got a card, but I’ve got the marks on my arm all right’. This is absolutely true.
There is always a little crowd who has afternoon tea together. There are Mrs, Miss and Billie Petheram; Mr Mills; Messrs Garvie, Tomlins and Tyler; Billie Askwith; Mac; two Miss Fletchers; and myself. Sometimes the two Miss Fletchers provide tea; they are both over thirty. They intended settling down in the Old Country, but they are going back to Australia after about two years’ absence. Do you know where they stayed in England? They landed at Avonmouth and stayed at Shirehampton for six months and Bristol for four months. But where do you think they stayed in Bristol? They lived with a Mrs Robson at 12 Ravenswood Road. They visited a lot of churches including St Mary’s, Tyndall’s Park; St Mary Redcliffe; All Saints St John’s; St Mark’s; the Cathedral; and even St Anselm’s. They knew the Rev. Norton.