by Mark Montano
CRYSTAL PUNK BABY HEAD
What can I say? It happened late one night and I’m not apologizing for it. It’s crazy, kooky, and weird . . . and I LOVE IT!
YOU’LL NEED
Melt Art Mold-n-Pour molding putty (www.createforless.com)
Doll head or 3-D object you want to mold
ICE Resin or Smooth-Cast 300
Krylon Flat black spray paint
Large black crystal—choice of size and shape up to you
Enough crystal chain to circle the baby head and crystal
Crystal beads
16 inches large silver-tone chain
4 large silver-tone jump rings
25 safety pins of various sizes (8 of them large no. 3 size)
Plastic gutter guard
Scissors
Aluminum flashing
Tin shears or heavy-duty scissors with serrated blades
E-6000 glue
Needle-nose pliers (and wirecutters if the pliers don’t have them)
HERE’S HOW
1 Knead your two-part molding putty according to the instructions that I provide. (If you need to, review the Mold & Cast, Bold and Fast! chapter.) It’s supereasy, and once you get started, you’ll be addicted to it like I am! Smoosh it over the doll face, making sure that there is a decent amount around the face and that it’s covering all the parts you want to cast.
2 Let the mold set for 10 minutes. Yes, that’s all it takes! Remove your new mold.
3 Mix your resin (outside and wearing gloves) or mix your Smooth-Cast 300 casting liquid (this can be done inside). Fill your mold and let set.
4 Remove the doll head, spray paint with the Krylon flat black, and let dry.
5 With tin shears or heavy-duty scissors with serrated blades, cut an oval a little under 3 inches by 4 inches from the aluminum flashing and glue your head to the oval with E-6000.
6 Glue the large black crystal to the top of the head.
7 With dabs of E-6000 on a toothpick, surround the head and crystal with crystal chain and let dry.
8 Glue the entire piece to a larger oval cut from gutter guard.
9 Add six crystal beads to two of the large safety pins and then add them to the upper part of the gutter guard with two jump rings.
10 Cut two 8-inch pieces of silver-tone chain and add them to the other ends of the safety pins.
11 Hang the other safety pins from the bottom of the gutter guard. Hang the smaller pins from the sides and the large pins from the bottom.
12 Add crystals to the larger pins for some more sparkle. Close your necklace with another large safety pin.
BABY CLUTCH
I’m sure right now you’re wondering what actually goes through my head to inspire something like this. Not sure, really. What I can tell you is that I’m not the first, nor will I be the last, to use doll imagery in my work. I was recently at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and saw some amazing moody black-and-white photographs from the early 1920s that featured broken dolls sitting on swings and in alleyways. That was freaky! This, well, it’s just a funky wallet to get the attention of all who witness you pulling it out of your purse. Come on, it’s not like I put a clown on it!
YOU’LL NEED
Wallet in need of a makeover
Cast of a doll head
E-6000 glue
Lumiere metallic paint in Pearl Turquoise and Pewter
Paintbrush
Rags
Masking tape
12 inches of crystal chain
Needle-nose pliers (and wirecutters if the pliers don’t have them)
1 black cord tassel (www.createforless.com)
Krylon Glitter Blast in Starry Night
Minwax Clear Aerosol Lacquer
Krylon gray primer
Toothpicks
HERE’S HOW
1 Make a mold and cast a doll face that you like. (It’s easy and fun!)
2 Paint the doll face in the Lumiere Pearl Turquoise and let dry.
3 With a rag, rub the pewter paint over the doll face to give it sheen and definition.
4 Mask off the zipper on your clutch with tape. Spray the clutch on both sides with gray primer and let dry.
5 Spray the clutch with the Glitter Blast on each side and let dry.
6 Spray the clutch with Minwax Clear Aerosol Lacquer and let dry. This will eliminate any tackiness in your spray-painted projects and give them an amazing finish. (This is the best-kept secret about eliminating tackiness from spray-painted objects.)
7 Center your doll face on the clutch and glue it on with E-6000.
8 Cut 12 inches of crystal chain. With dabs of E-6000 on a toothpick, carefully add the crystal chain around the doll face.
9 Remove the old zipper or zipper pull and hang the black tassel from it.
HOT PINK DOLL FACE CUFF
You’re either Team Doll Head or you’re not. I am the captain, president, chairman, and CEO of Team Doll Head. Membership requirements are simple . . . you must love doll heads, doll parts, doll faces and stuff made with doll heads. Oh, and send me a check for $50, please—your certificate of membership will be in the mail upon receipt.
YOU’LL NEED
Melt Art Mold-n-Pour molding putty (www.createforless.com)
Doll head or 3-D object you want to mold
ICE Resin or Smooth-Cast 300
Plastic gutter guard
Aluminum flashing
Tin shears or heavy-duty scissors with serrated blades
Scrap wood
E-6000 glue
Pink fluorescent Krylon spray paint
Lumiere metallic paint in pewter
Rags
Enough crystal chain to surround your doll face
Large crystal button (your choice)
1 rubber hairband
3 inches of 20-gauge wire
Needle-nose pliers (and wirecutters if the pliers don’t have them)
HERE’S HOW
1 Knead your two-part molding putty according to instructions that I provide. (If you need to, review the Mold & Cast, Bold and Fast! chapter.) It’s supereasy, and once you get started, you’ll be addicted to it like I am! Smoosh it over the doll face, making sure that you have a decent amount around the face and that it’s covering all the parts you want to cast. Let the mold set for 10 minutes. Yes, that’s all it takes! Remove your new mold.
2 Mix your resin (outside and wearing gloves) or mix your Smooth-Cast 300 casting liquid. Fill your mold and let set.
3 Remove your doll face from the mold, spray-paint it fluorescent pink, and let dry.
4 Paint your doll face with the Jacquard Lumiere pewter and immediately wipe off the paint so that it leaves details and some shimmer on the pink doll face.
5 Cut a piece of gutter guard 3 inches by 9 inches with heavy-duty scissors.
6 Cut a piece of aluminum flashing a bit larger than the doll face and glue the doll face to the aluminum flashing with E-6000 and let dry.
7 Trim the aluminum flashing around the doll face leaving about 1/4 inch all the way around.
8 With dabs of E-6000 on a toothpick, carefully glue the crystal chain around the doll face on the flashing and let dry.
9 Glue the face to the center of your gutter guard piece and let dry.
10 Secure your button to the end of the gutter guard cuff with wire. Twist it in place, bend so that it’s not sharp, and cut off excess.
12 Measure how big you need your cuff and secure your rubber hairband with a slip knot around the other end of the cuff, then stretch the hairband over the button for the closure.
PEARLY DOLL FACE
Admit it, you love it when people notice you and comment on your signature style! We all do. Wearing this cuff will be sure to get you noticed. Okay, maybe not always the way you planned, but at least it will be a conversation starter, right?
YOU’LL NEED
Melt Art Mold-n-Pour molding putty (www.createforless.com)
Baby head or 3-D object you want
to mold
ICE Resin or Smooth-Cast 300
Lumiere metallic paint in Pewter
Paintbrush
Metal cuff
Krylon Fusion for Plastic in flat black
Rags
Aluminum flashing
Tin shears or heavy-duty scissors with serrated blades
Scrap wood
E-6000 glue
Toothpicks
Selection of pearls, flat-back gems, and crystal beads
HERE’S HOW
1 Knead your two-part molding putty according to instructions that I provide. (If you need to, review the Mold & Cast, Bold and Fast! chapter.) Smoosh it over the doll face, making sure that you have a decent amount around the face and it’s covering all the parts you want to cast.
2 Let the mold set for 10 minutes. Remove your new mold. Mix your resin (outside and wearing gloves) or mix your Smooth-Cast 300 casting liquid. Fill your mold and let set.
3 Remove your doll head from the mold, paint it with the Lumiere pewter, and let dry.
4 Spray-paint your cuff with flat black Krylon Fusion for Plastic.
5 Spray the cuff lightly with the pewter paint and then rub with a rag, to give it some shimmer.
6 Cut an oval 3 inches by 4 inches out of your aluminum flashing with tin shears or heavy-duty serrated scissors.
7 Glue the doll face to the oval with E-6000.
8 Glue the oval to the cuff with E-6000 and let dry.
9 With dabs of E-6000 on a toothpick, carefully glue gems and pearls around the doll face.
10 Add more pearls and stones under the oval and on the sides of the cuff until you’re satisfied with the design.
MOLD & CAST, BOLD AND FAST!
If you look around your house (or your grandmother’s house), I’m sure you can find something from which to make a mold. I’ve used refrigerator magnets, plastic birds, twigs, and bold pieces of jewelry. Use your imagination and go nuts. Once you’ve made your molds, you have some options as to what to use to cast your shapes. If you are impatient and want to get going quickly, try the Smooth-Cast 300 (www.smooth-on.com). This is a two-part liquid plastic mix that sets in about 10 minutes and you’re ready to start almost immediately. Mix two equal parts of the Smooth-Cast 300 and pour it directly into your mold and in about 10 minutes it’s hard. It doesn’t have harsh fumes, so you’re able to use it inside. Smooth-on makes a variety of different products, but the Smooth-Cast 300 is what you’ll want to use when ordering from them. If you have a little more patience and want your cast pieces to be clear as ICE, then ICE Resin is my favorite casting system. ICE Resin is a jeweler-quality resin that dries hard as a rock. ICE Resin has fumes that can give you a headache if you don’t follow the instructions and work outside or in a VERY well-ventilated area. You’ll also need to let the pieces dry in a room or part of the house that you don’t use. For both Smooth-on and ICE Resin you’re better off wearing rubber or plastic gloves to keep the components off your hands. They are sticky! The pieces on these next few pages use some of my favorite molds. Use your imagination and you won’t be disappointed, I promise.
MOLD MAKING AND CASTING IN LESS THAN ONE HOUR!
I always thought casting was just too complicated, but I was wrong. With just a few simple products, I’ve been able to make amazing things in less than an hour! You heard me, LESS THAN ONE HOUR! It’s amazing what modern science has developed for us crafters, and rubber molds are no exception. Thanks to the folks at Ranger, you can make a mold in 10 minutes. I found a company called Smooth-On that makes a two-part liquid plastic that sets in just 10 to 15 minutes. If you’re impatient like I am, these products are the answer to your casting and mold-making dreams.
PRODUCTS I RECOMMEND
MELT ART MOLD-N-POUR BY RANGER
(www.createforless.com)
This is a two-part putty that you mix together and smooth over an object. After letting it set for 10 minutes, you can remove a ready-to-use rubber mold. You have to work pretty quickly because once it sets, it’s set for good. I’ve had wonderful results almost every time with this product, and you can use it on almost anything.
SMOOTH-CAST 300 SERIES BRIGHT WHITE LIQUID PLASTIC
Smooth-On sells many casting kits (rubber, silicone, resins), but the Smooth-Cast 300 is a two-part liquid plastic that you mix together and pour into your molds and it’s what I recommend for the projects I’ve created. It sets in 10 minutes, and in about 15 minutes you can start painting it. This stuff is A-M-A-Z-I-N-G and you can use it inside because there are virtually no fumes, unlike resin products. And it’s my little secret! They also sell a two-part putty that works just as well as the Melt Art Mold-n-Pour.
ICE RESIN
(www.iceresin.com)
ICE is a two-part resin that creates jeweler-quality cast pieces. I’ve also discovered that by painting on the resin with a disposable brush, you can harden things like lace and fabric and coat cardboard so that they’re hard as a rock! Just mix your ICE Resin with your disposable brush, paint it on your lace or cardboard, making sure that all of the areas are covered, and let it dry on wax paper. ICE Resin sets overnight and creates beautiful, clear pieces that do not yellow over time, and I find it to be the best two-part resin on the market. If you’re patient and willing to give it the proper amount of drying time, it’s worth using this product. I always recommend mixing it outdoors and letting it set in a room that you’re not sleeping or working in. Just follow the instructions carefully and make sure to mix the equal parts thoroughly. Work on wax paper because the resin won’t stick to it, and always wear rubber or plastic gloves so that you don’t get sticky hands. Also, it dries faster if you leave it under a desk lamp undisturbed. Not much faster, but you can shave off a few hours of your time.
TWO-TONE GLITTER BLAST HANDBAG
If you ever hit a sale on cheap handbags or find one at a thrift shop that has a good shape, just grab it and add some sparkle to it. There is nothing more fun than having something that NO ONE else has. It’s even more fun when you tell them that you made it yourself. These bags were a bargain at just three bucks each. With a little bit of Krylon Glitter Blast, you’ll be ready for the runway.
YOU’LL NEED
Handbag in need of remodeling
Mold and cast of a piece of jewelry that you like
Lumiere metallic paints in Pewter and Old Brass
Piece of vinyl or leather
Fiskars pinking shears
Base color of paint to match the Glitter Blast*
Krylon Glitter Blast in two colors
Newspaper
Masking tape
Minwax Clear Aerosol Lacquer
E-6000 glue
* I used metallic gold for the gold purse and gray for the silver purse
HERE’S HOW
1 Figure out what kind of centerpiece you want for your bag and make your mold and cast. (See instructions and materials for molding and casting.)
2 Paint your cast piece to match the colors of your handbag.
3 Cut out an oval from your vinyl or leather big enough for you to mount your cast piece. I used pinking shears for the edges.
4 Spray-paint your entire bag and centerpiece oval in a base color that matches the color of your Glitter Blast. I used gold for the gold bag and gray for the silver bag.
5 When the base is dry, cover the sections using newspaper and masking tape and spray your first section of Glitter Blast.
6 Flip over and repeat.
7 Remove the taped-off section and tape off again for your second color, then add your second color of Glitter Blast.
8 Here’s the best-kept secret about keeping spray-painted objects from getting tacky: After spray-painting, spray with Minwax Clear Aerosol Lacquer and let dry. This will eliminate any tackiness in your spray-painted projects, as well as give an amazing finish and keep your glitter intact.
9 With E-6000, glue on your oval, but not the molded piece yet. Put something flat and heavy like a book on top so it dries evenly.
10 Glue your molded piece on the oval with E-6000 and let dry.
I AIN’T LION
My friend Shaye (I’ve written about her before) will automatically think this belongs to her because she’s a Leo. She’s also a jewelry hoarder. Suffice it to say, it will be making its way to her jewelry box after I photograph it for this book.
Hint:
You don’t have to make a casting for this; you could just use a brooch and tons of matching chain. I like creating molds and casts because then I’m positive that no one else has a piece like this!
YOU’LL NEED
Cast of lion or anything you want (or you could use a brooch for this project)
Krylon spray adhesive
Gold leaf
1-inch flat brush
Pin back
E-6000 glue
3 yards of fine gold-tone chain
Needle-nose pliers (and wirecutters if the pliers don’t have them)
2 gold-tone jump rings
1 gold-tone lobster claw closure
HERE’S HOW
1 Make your lion mold and cast (or any cast you want to use for this), or find a suitable brooch. It’s up to you. I used a lion head kitchen magnet for this project. (See instructions and materials for molding and casting.) Spray your cast piece or brooch with Krylon adhesive. Brush on gold leaf and let dry.
2 Glue on your pin back with E-6000 and let dry.
3 Cut two 8-inch and two 10-inch pieces of chain.
4 Open your pin back and loop one 10-inch chain and one 8-inch chain onto the pin.
5 With the rest of the chain, create fringe on the pin, threading the pin through the links until the pin is almost filled up.