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by Ernest Hemingway


  “To stay a little while is nice.”

  “To travel is necessary during the light of day.”

  “Listen,” the clean-cut young man said. “Don’t bother to talk with these two. I tell you they are worth nothing and I know.”

  “Bring us the bill,” I said. She brought the bill from the old woman and went back and sat at the table. Another girl came in from the kitchen. She walked the length of the room and stood in the doorway.

  “Don’t bother with these two,” the clean-cut young man said in a wearied voice. “Come and eat. They are worth nothing.”

  We paid the bill and stood up. All the girls, the old woman, and the clean-cut young man sat down at the table together. The property sailor sat with his head in his hands. No one had spoken to him all the time we were at lunch. The girl brought us our change that the old woman counted out for her and went back to her place at the table. We left a tip on the table and went out. When we were seated in the car ready to start, the girl came out and stood in the door. We started and I waved to her. She did not wave, but stood there looking after us.

  AFTER THE RAIN

  It was raining hard when we passed through the suburbs of Genoa, and, even going very slowly behind the tram cars and the motor trucks, liquid mud splashed on to the sidewalks, so that people stepped into doorways as they saw us coming. In San Pier d’Arena, the industrial suburb outside of Genoa, there is a wide street with two car-tracks and we drove down the centre to avoid sending the mud on to the men going home from work. On our left was the Mediterranean. There was a big sea running and waves broke and the wind blew the spray against the car. A riverbed that, when we had passed, going into Italy, had been wide, stony, and dry, was running brown, and up to the banks. The brown water discoloured the sea and as the waves thinned and cleared in breaking, the light came through the yellow water and the crests, detached by the wind, blew across the road.

  A big car passed us, going fast, and a sheet of muddy water rose up and over our windshield and radiator. The automatic windshield cleaner moved back and forth, spreading the film over the glass. We stopped and ate lunch at Sestri. There was no heat in the restaurant and we kept our hats and coats on. We could see the car outside, through the window. It was covered with mud and was stopped beside some boats that had been pulled up beyond the waves. In the restaurant you could see your breath.

  The pasta asciuta was good; the wine tasted of alum, and we poured water in it. Afterwards the waiter brought beef steak and fried potatoes. A man and a woman sat at the far end of the restaurant. He was middle-aged and she was young and wore black. All during the meal she would blow out her breath in the cold damp air. The man would look at it and shake his head. They ate without talking and the man held her hand under the table. She was good-looking and they seemed very sad. They had a travelling bag with them.

  We had the papers and I read the account of the Shanghai fighting aloud to Guy. After the meal, he left with the waiter in search for a place which did not exist in the restaurant, and I cleaned off the windshield, the lights and the licence plates with a rag. Guy came back and we backed the car out and started. The waiter had taken him across the road and into an old house. The people in the house were suspicious and the waiter had remained with Guy to see nothing was stolen.

  “Although I don’t know how, me not being a plumber, they expected me to steal anything,” Guy said.

  As we came up on a headland beyond the town, the wind struck the car and nearly tipped it over.

  “It’s good, it blows us away from the sea,” Guy said.

  “Well,” I said, “they drowned Shelley somewhere along here.”

  “That was down by Viareggio,” Guy said. “Do you remember what we came to this country for?”

  “Yes,” I said, “but we didn’t get it.”

  “We’ll be out of it tonight.”

  “If we can get past Ventimiglia.”

  “We’ll see. I don’t like to drive this coast at night.” It was early afternoon and the sun was out. Below, the sea was blue with whitecaps running towards Savona. Back beyond the cape the brown and blue waters joined. Out ahead of us, a tramp steamer was going up the coast.

  “Can you still see Genoa?” Guy asked.

  “Oh, yes.”

  “That next big cape ought to put it out of sight.”

  “We’ll see it a long time yet. I can still see Portofino Cape behind it.”

  Finally we could not see Genoa. I looked back as we came out and there was only the sea, and below in the bay, a line of beach and fishing boats and above, on the side of the hill, a town and then capes far down the coast.

  “It’s gone now,” I said to Guy.

  “Oh, it’s been gone a long time now.”

  “But we couldn’t be sure till we got way out.”

  There was a sign with a picture of an S-turn and Svolta Pericolosa. The road curved around the headland and the wind blew through the crack in the windshield. Below the cape was a flat stretch beside the sea. The wind had dried the mud and the wheels were beginning to lift dust. On the flat road we passed a Fascist riding a bicycle, a heavy revolver in a holster on his back. He held the middle of the road on his bicycle and we turned out for him. He looked up at us as we passed. Ahead there was a railway crossing, and as we came towards it the gates went down.

  As we waited, the Fascist came up on his bicycle. The train went by and Guy started the engine.

  “Wait,” the bicycle man shouted from behind the car. “Your number’s dirty.”

  I got out with a rag. The number had been cleaned at lunch.

  “You can read it,” I said.

  “You think so?”

  “Read it.”

  “I cannot read it. It is dirty.”

  I wiped it off with the rag.

  “How’s that?”

  “Twenty-five lire.”

  “What?” I said. “You could have read it. It’s only dirty from the state of the roads.”

  “You don’t like Italian roads?”

  “They are dirty.”

  “Fifty lire.” He spat in the road. “Your car is dirty and you are dirty too.”

  “Good. And give me a receipt with your name.”

  He took out a receipt book, made in duplicate, and perforated, so one side could be given to the customer, and the other side filled in and kept as a stub. There was no carbon to record what the customer’s ticket said.

  “Give me fifty lire.”

  He wrote in indelible pencil, tore out the slip and handed it to me. I read it.

  “This is for twenty-five lire.”

  “A mistake,” he said, and changed the twenty-five to fifty.

  “And now the other side. Make it fifty in the part you keep.”

  He smiled a beautiful Italian smile and wrote something on the receipt stub, holding it so I could not see.

  “Go on,” he said, “before your number gets dirty again.”

  We drove for two hours after it was dark and slept in Mentone that night. It seemed very cheerful and clean and sane and lovely. We had driven from Ventimiglia to Pisa and Florence, across the Romagna to Rimini, back through Forli, Imola, Bologna, Parma, Piacenza, and Genoa, to Ventimiglia again. The whole trip had only taken ten days. Naturally, in such a short trip, we had no opportunity to see how things were with the country or the people.

  Fifty Grand

  “How are you going yourself Jack?” I asked him.

  “You seen this Walcott?” he says.

  “Just in the gym.”

  “Well,” Jack says, “I’m going to need a lot of luck with that boy.”

  “He can’t hit you, Jack,” Soldier said.

  “I wish to hell he couldn’t.”

  “He couldn’t hit you with a handful of bird s
hot.”

  “Bird shot’d be all right,” Jack says. “I wouldn’t mind bird shot any.”

  “He looks easy to hit,” I said.

  “Sure,” Jack says, “he ain’t going to last long. He ain’t going to last like you and me, Jerry. But right now he’s got everything.”

  “You’ll left-hand him to death.”

  “Maybe,” Jack says. “Sure. I got a chance to.”

  “Handle him like you handled Richie Lewis.”

  “Richie Lewis,” Jack said. “That kike!”

  The three of us, Jack Brennan, Soldier Bartlett, and I, were in Handley’s. There were a couple of broads sitting at the next table to us. They had been drinking.

  “What do you mean, kike?” one of the broads says. “What do you mean, kike, you big Irish bum?”

  “Sure,” Jack says. “That’s it.”

  “Kikes,” this broad goes on. “They’re always talking about kikes, these big Irishmen. What do you mean, kikes?”

  “Come on. Let’s get out of here.”

  “Kikes,” this broad goes on. “Whoever saw you ever buy a drink? Your wife sews your pockets up every morning. These Irishmen and their kikes ! Ritchie Lewis could lick you too.”

  “Sure,” Jack says. “And you give away a lot of things free too, don’t you?”

  We went out. That was Jack. He could say what he wanted to when he wanted to say it.

  Jack started training out at Danny Hogan’s health farm over in Jersey. It was nice out there but Jack didn’t like it much. He didn’t like being away from his wife and the kids, and he was sore and grouchy most of the time. He liked me and we got along fine together; and he liked Hogan, but after a while Soldier Bartlett commenced to get on his nerves. A kidder gets to be an awful thing around a camp if his stuff goes sort of sour. Soldier was always kidding Jack, just sort of kidding him all the time. It wasn’t very funny and it wasn’t very good, and it began to get to Jack. It was sort of stuff like this. Jack would finish up with the weights and the bag and pull on the gloves.

  “You want to work?” he’d say to Soldier.

  “Sure. How you want me to work?” Soldier would ask. “Want me to treat you rough like Walcott? Want me to knock you down a few times?”

  “That’s it,” Jack would say. He didn’t like it any, though.

  One morning we were all out on the road. We’d been out quite a way and now we were coming back. We’d go along fast for three minutes and then walk a minute, and then go fast for three minutes again. Jack wasn’t ever what you would call a sprinter. He’d move around fast enough in the ring if he had to, but he wasn’t any too fast on the road. All the time we were walking Soldier was kidding him. We came up the hill to the farmhouse.

  “Well,” says Jack, “you better go back to town, Soldier.”

  “What do you mean?”

  “You better go back to town and stay there.”

  “What’s the matter?”

  “I’m sick of hearing you talk.”

  “Yes?” says Soldier.

  “Yes,” says Jack.

  “You’ll be a damn sight sicker when Walcott gets through with you.”

  “Sure,” says Jack, “maybe I will. But I know I’m sick of you.”

  So Soldier went off on the train to town that same morning. I went with him to the train. He was good and sore.

  “I was just kidding him,” he said. We were waiting on the platform. “He can’t pull that stuff with me, Jerry.”

  “He’s nervous and crabby,” I said. “He’s a good fellow, Soldier.”

  “The hell he is. The hell he’s ever been a good fellow.”

  “Well,” I said, “so long, Soldier.”

  The train had come in. He climbed up with his bag.

  “So long, Jerry,” he says. “You be in town before the fight?”

  “I don’t think so.”

  “See you then.”

  He went in and the conductor swung up and the train went out. I rode back to the farm in the cart. Jack was on the porch writing a letter to his wife. The mail had come and I got the papers and went over on the other side of the porch and sat down to read. Hogan came out the door and walked over to me.

  “Did he have a jam with Soldier?”

  “Not a jam,” I said. “He just told him to go back to town.”

  “I could see it corning,” Hogan said. “He never liked Soldier much.”

  “No. He don’t like many people.”

  “He’s a pretty cold one,” Hogan said.

  “Well, he’s always been fine to me.”

  “Me too,” Hogan said. “I got no kick on him. He’s a cold one, though.”

  Hogan went in through the screen door and I sat there on the porch and read the papers. It was just starting to get fall weather and it’s nice country there in Jersey, up in the hills, and after f read the paper through I sat there and looked out at the country and the road down below against the woods with cars going along it, lifting the dust up. It was fine weather and pretty nice-looking country. Hogan came to the door and I said, “Say, Hogan, haven’t you got anything to shoot here?”

  “No,” Hogan said. “Only sparrows.”

  “Seen the paper?” I said to Hogan.

  “What’s in it?”

  “Sande booted three of them in yesterday.”

  “I got that on the telephone last night.”

  “You follow them pretty close, Hogan?” I asked.

  “Oh, I keep in touch with them,” Hogan said.

  “How about Jack?” I says. “Does he still play them?”

  “Him?” said Hogan. “Can you see him doing it?”

  Just then Jack came around the corner with the letter in his hand. He’s wearing a sweater and an old pair of pants and boxing shoes.

  “Got a stamp, Hogan?” he asks.

  “Give me the letter,” Hogan said. “I’ll mail it for you.”

  “Say, Jack,” I said, “didn’t you used to play the ponies?”

  “Sure.”

  “I knew you did. I knew I used to see you out at Sheepshead.”

  “What did you lay off them for?” Hogan asked.

  “Lost money.”

  Jack sat down on the porch by me. He leaned back against a post. He shut his eyes in the sun.

  “Want a chair?” Hogan asked.

  “No,” said Jack. “This is fine.”

  “It’s a nice day,” I said. “It’s pretty nice out in the country.”

  “I’d a damn sight rather be in town with the wife.”

  “Well, you only got another week.”

  “Yes,” Jack says. “That’s so.”

  We sat there on the porch. Hogan was inside at the office.

  “What do you think about the shape I’m in?” Jack asked me.

  “Well, you can’t tell,” I said. “You got a week to get around into form.”

  “Don’t stall me.”

  “Well,” I said, “you’re not right.”

  “I’m not sleeping,” Jack said.

  “You’ll be all right in a couple of days.”

  “No,” said Jack, “I got the insomnia.”

  “What’s on your mind?”

  “I miss the wife.”

  “Have her come out.”

  “No. I’m too old for that.”

  “We’ll take a long walk before you turn in and get you good and tired.”

  “Tired!” Jack says. “I’m tired all the time.”

  He was that way all week. He wouldn’t sleep at night and he’d get up in the morning feeling that way, you know, when you can’t shut your hands.

  “He’s stale as poorhouse cake,” Hogan said. “He’s nothing.”<
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