The only mishap on the car trip with the journalists was a tire blowout just as we got to Athens. We easily put on the spare and had the tire repaired at a nearby garage. The garage owner turned out to have lived in New York for 25-years, developed a successful restaurant in lower Manhattan, and then sold everything to retire to his home in Athens.
His English was perfect, and we spent an hour or so talking. During this time the journalist couple took photos and taped conversations with some of the Greek people they met. We tried to pay him for the tire and gas fill, but he would not take any payment.
I gave him an Afghan tribal necklace, set with turquoise and lapis, for the “woman in your life,” and he was thrilled with such a fine gift. He told us that his wife managed the restaurant and that we three must be their guests.
The garage owner had realized his dream of an American style bistro, sports tavern, and garage, all within a mile of each other. He insisted on taking the three of us to dinner at his huge stainless steel bistro that looked like some sort of futuristic diner.
While the bistro featured Greek food, American dishes were prominently displayed in florescent lettering on black Lucite signs. Our host ordered wonderful appetizers. The main course was fresh tuna filets, slow roasted in parchment with fresh fennel, garlic, lemon, chalets in a yogurt sauce.
Retzina, a wonderful dry resin wine, was served with the appetizers and main course. Fresh fruit and goat cheese followed with Mavrodafni, a black grape wine from the Ionian Islands. Our host’s beautiful wife joined us for dessert and coffee.
As soon as she sat down, he put the necklace around her neck. She was a work of art without the necklace, but with the necklace she could have been Aphrodite herself. She was American born, of Greek descent. She managed the restaurant, and it was as lovely as she was.
She said that they met at the NYU library twenty years ago. She was working on her doctorate in philosophy, “Elements of Pre-Socratic Thought in Quantum Physics.” He was doing post-doctoral research in genetic technology.
It was a lovely dinner, and the next morning we strolled over to the garage. The garage owner was so grateful for his wife’s necklace that he insisted on doing an oil change before we returned the car to the rental agency.
On my first caravan trip in 1975, we experienced at least one bus breakdown in every nation on our itinerary from Zurich to Kabul. The flat tire in Athens turned out to be more of a happy adventure than an adversity.
The European roads were fine except for some parts of Yugoslavia. Travel through Yugoslavia to Greece, the roads worsened as we continued south to the Greek border. (Yugoslavia is now Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia and Macedonia.)
Throughout Yugoslavia, most of the roads were mountainous with muddy bypasses and the danger of potential rock slides. In the six-vehicle caravan, vehicles experienced tire blow outs, broken windshields, and three axle replacements. Falling rocks and rock throwing in Iran gave the vehicles what I called carpox, and once, in Iran a vehicle was broken into.
Returning home after nearly three months of travel was pleasant compared to traveling to Kabul. Now, in a rented car, we were being treated like welcomed guests, especially in Greece.
Road travel between Zurich and Kabul*
I was fascinated with the journalists’ experiences. As we traveled the Silk Road to Athens, I was entertained with additional stories of the Silk Road as we drove through appropriate regions. These journalists sure got around.
One journalist spoke about the site of Troy, on the west central coast of Turkey, south of the Bosporus, and on a latitude with the adjacent Greek Isles. The archaeological site of Troy was not found until the early 1900s. Previously, Troy was the stuff of myth, but 4,000 years ago, Troy was a thriving city-state, probably of Greek origin.
At that time a brisk far flung sea trade flourished throughout the world. Sharing the Mediterranean Sea trade with Troy were Crete; Sumer, on the Tigris-Euphrates; Phoenicia, on the coast of Syria; Egypt; India, and China. Athens was not a major sea trader until perhaps 3,500 years ago. That was when Athens grew into a major player in Mediterranean Sea trade, rivaled by Troy in control of the sea lanes.
It was not Helen’s face that launched 1,000 Greek ships, but a trade war between Troy and the Greek city states. It did not take ten years to build a Trojan horse, but it did take ten years of raiding Trojan ports to end Trojan power.
As the two journalists discussed travel and trade through the ages, an argument of sorts took place. I sat in the back seat jotting notes in my travel journal as the hours passed. She, the cultural anthropologist, insisted that the Silk Road was the overland and sea route first used to trade Chinese silk to Europe.
The Chinese expanded the Silk Road as they wanted to expand silk export and trade to spread Chinese influence. Similarly, the Roman Empire expanded trade roads and sea lanes as a means of exporting Roman power.
She insisted that Chinese and Roman dominions defined the extent of the Silk Road. He, the physical anthropologist, declared that she was too narrow in defining the Silk Road within those limits.
The debate continued on and off for days, while I wrote as much as I could. When they were pleased with each other, they talked about other issues. But when they were peeved, they started in again about the Silk Road. Each succeeding Silk Road discussion became a little more strained, especially when they were hungry or tired of driving.
Stopping for a meal or when I took the wheel, it was all light hearted banter. Within a few hours, as soon as the trip became tiresome, they started in again.
“OK, so explain why my view of the Silk Road is too narrow. After all, it’s my specialty, not yours,” she said.
“Yes, it’s certainly your field, and you’re doing outstanding research in that limited area,” he replied. “In my view, and, admittedly, I’m speaking from my bias in physical anthropology, the silk trade is merely one limited aspect of trade since a few hundred humans migrated out of Africa,” he continued.
“You make me feel as if I’ve buried my head in the academic sand all this time. Just come right out with it; enlighten us. I’m sure Lela is as interested in your revelations as I am,” she added sarcastically.
When they referred to me, I found myself shrinking down in my seat more and more. Why drag me into their family argument? Sure, I was quite interested in their discussions, but I certainly resisted the idea of refereeing their arguments.
“You’ve had me review and critique all your research, as you’ve done with mine, and I’ve said repeatedly that your work is excellent, flawless, within the narrow confines of your academic specialty. So what I’m suggesting is outside the realm of academic peer review,” he stressed.
When he said that, I noticed her face getting red.
“Well, don’t stop there. We need to hear your complete thesis,” she replied. At that point, I was glad to be driving with her sitting next to me, patting my leg after each of her verbal assaults.
He took a loud deep breath and began, “In my non-academic view, speaking from my research in physical anthropology, especially our joint work at Çatal Hüyük, we have seen the results of at least 18 levels of settlement and trade, over at least 10,000 years. Fortunately, each level is built on top of the remains of the previous level.
“It’s as if a time machine were left for us. We peel the levels like an onion. At the earliest level we’ve seen evidence of flint tool and weapon manufacture, and we assume trade. Again, there’s no clear evidence of trade. At a later level obsidian became a dominant artifact.
“We know the obsidian originated from the black volcanic glass at the dormant volcanos some miles to the north. Later we find glass beads and jewelry. At a later level, there is some scant evidence of textiles and decorated pottery. Still later we find copper, iron and tin, distinctly analyzed as originating from Ireland, Whales, Scotland and Britain. Even codfish bone fragments were found.
“The nearest codfish is the Grand Banks, off the coast of Newfoundl
and and Nova Scotia. The Basques of northern Spain are known to have fished North American coastal waters for thousands of years. These discoveries point to an extensive global trade network passing through Çatal Hüyük. I believe Çatal Hüyük is the earliest focal point of world trade, as well as the axis of the Silk Road.”
Abruptly, his wife interrupted, “All speculation—not one bit of solid data to support your conjecture. Cod fish traded in the middle of Turkey? Give me a break. Sturgeon maybe, but certainly not cod fish. You wouldn’t dare publish such speculation, not even in a tabloid. In any case cod are fished off the coast of Europe.
“What are you, some kind of seer? All they found was less than a millimeter of petrified calcium vertebra. The radio isotope readings suggested some kind of fish, something like cod. DNA comparisons would be needed for positive identity, and that’s decades away. Even if it is cod bones they could easily have been of Iberian coastal origin.
“You can’t possibly believe the bones are from the Grand Banks of North America, please? Basques routinely fish cod off Newfoundland, for trade in North Europe. Trading salted cod as far as the Silk Road? My love, try your hand at science fiction. You’ll have a better future in fiction than in Anthropology.”
She leaned over the back seat, laughing and kissing him passionately. They were both laughing. I joined in, giggling with tears in my eyes. Once they came up for air, though, I knew the great debate would continue.
Sure enough, as soon as the hilarity ended, the husband began his rebuttal, “Histories of Basqueland repeatedly refer to fishing the Grand Banks. They write of filling their ship bulkheads with rock salt as ballast. They used hemp nets and winches to dump cod in the ship’s hold, shoveling salt between each layer of cod.
“On the voyage back to Bilbao, they packed the salted cod in oak barrels from the forests east of Bilbao. Their books note that Bilbao is on the same latitude with the Grand Banks. They claim to have learned from Egyptians the art of potting fish, water fowl, and other foods preserved in salt, honey and herbs packed in clay-sealed pottery.
“Long before the seafaring Sumerians, Phoenicians and Greeks, Basques were using lode-stones and it was long before compasses were developed. Open ocean travel and trade were closely guarded secret skills. Basques were highly paid navigators on most early sea explorations.
“You are correct. Cod is fished off the Iberian Coast, but the quality and quantity of European coastal cod is inferior to the vast supply of cod fished off the Grand Banks.
“The most important trade from the beginning of humanity was the trade in mates. I’m speaking of mating privileges. From the time of the first European settlements and migrations, the need for mates was imperative. At that time perhaps 40,000 years-ago there are estimated to be only a few thousand humans on Earth.
“Exogamy, or mating outside the band-kinship group, was demanded by matriarchs early on. Since there were so few people available outside the kinship group, exogamous mating was difficult.
“Because of these mating limitations, mating between modern and Neanderthal humans may have occurred.” (Recent bone DNA suggests that 2% of current human DNA, including red hair, may be part of our Neanderthal legacy.)
While listening to this conversation, I said little, trying to concentrate on the road and beautiful countryside with its classic look of vineyards, grazing sheep and goats, and rocky mountainous landscape.
The woman anthropologist initiated a new round of discussion:
“Yes, my love, I agree with you about exogamy and mating limitations. Except for a few bone fragments, sparse data exists relating to actual mating practices. All we have at this point in time is some logical speculation.
“From our observations at Çatal Hüyük, we noted and photographed many wall reliefs of women, especially pregnant women. These depictions suggest that fertility was a central theme. While there were some statues of women, men, and children joined together, suggesting a family, we found no figures of men or children alone. Women were portrayed alone, but not men.
[By 2010, ten times more depictions of equal numbers of women and men were found. But still most of the artifacts were animal figures, especially wall reliefs of bull horns.]
“Did you notice the emphasis on huge hips and breasts? Of course you did. How could anyone miss it? The obvious conclusion is a major emphasis on fertility. Compare the female frescoes and statues with the Venus of Willendorf. The similarity is unmistakable. Missing hands and feet suggest that figures such as these could be stuck into the ground or in food supplies.
Venus of Willendorf ca. 26,000 year old*
“Comparing the better known, much older, Venus of Willendorf with the lesser known Çatal Hüyük Seated Goddess, certain similarities are seen. The feet and hands in both are gone or intentionally left out. Not that those women actually looked like these Venuses, but it seems to be an idealized form.
“The Seated Goddess was found in a grain bin. Both appear to be fertility figures designed to increase the productivity of people and the Earth. Also, there are hints of fashion in the hair arrangement and bands around the breasts.”
Seated goddess on throne flanked by two lioness ca. 9,500 year old*
10
MATING ROAD - FALL, 1975
The discussion between the anthropologists-journalists got me thinking about discussions with Paul. Paul approached the subject of human communications from the viewpoint of economics, computer networking, and mating, his areas of expertise. Sex is an important part of my husband’s life, both physically and intellectually.
Paul’s viewpoint is that all communication is ultimately about mating and perpetuating ourselves in one form or another. The objective of all life is to survive and hopefully prosper. There are a number of ways the human animal communicates. Communication by touch and heat are two sensory modes, but there are also sound, sight, taste, and smell, as well as chemical messengers, such as hormones and pheromones.
There is, of course, hunger as well as magnetic and electrical communication. All forms of communication are essentially electromagnetic, signifying that all forms of communication are based on electron motion. Everything, from atoms to zebras and even stars and black holes appear to depend on electron transfer.
This is why people and most all things migrate. Migration, at least for people, primates, and herd animals, is driven by the environment. If an environment, such as a jungle or forest, offers plenty of everything, then everyone and everything will stay put, at least until scarcity sets in.
Paul and I talked about this so often and in so many different ways that these theories were indelibly etched in my memory.
I would eventually enter into the lively discussion my travel companions were having, and for which they were coaxing my input. I was intensely interested in their discussion at this point but initially felt at a loss to contribute. After a time, though, my thoughts turned to the most important issues in my life, namely my husband, sons, and family.
After all, it was sex, mating, and family that had motivated my enterprise in Afghanistan and on the Silk Road. I was journeying along the Silk Road to provide for my family, as well as to satisfy my need for adventure. It was my own personal walkabout.
Finally I broke my silence adding, “The Silk Road is also the Mating Road. It’s the drive for survival that gets us going anywhere. That’s why the three of us are traveling this road. You two travel for adventure, the stories you can sell, and academic success that will ultimately translate into income for you both. With adequate income, you may decide to have a family of your own.
“I’m here for similar reasons. My husband and I met on a rush hour train. We exchanged a smile, and that was all it took. The subway train was our Silk Road, our Mating Road. Why do we go on adventures, work, study, shop, or go after anything in life? I suggest that once we peel back the layers of culture and civilization, we reveal the Mating Road.
“That exchange of smiles on the train created a lasting family
. Likely, there was a pheromone chemical hormone network created even before the smile. This started our juices flowing. I suspect you two set up a similar network. We are all on the Mating Road, like it or not, and, personally, I love it.”
The couple laughed and heartily agreed with my emotion-packed contribution. The wife replied:
“Lela, that’s absolutely brilliant. You provided a golden moment in anthropology with your insight. Certainly there can be no doubt that the sex urge, the mating drive, is the primary instinct, the dominant genetic push and shove for all life.
“Some cultural anthropologists are convinced that mental development in primates, especially in humans, proceeded from the conscious awareness of the sex drive as distinct from mating instincts. The increase and growing complexity of brain neurons may be the result of the sex drive focusing attention on finding mates as well as finding food, shelter and safety.
“More than likely, we learned to think about cooperating, planning, and hunting to get the meat, in order to get mating privileges. The first human mothers realized the connection between eating bloody meat and restoring lost iron from menstrual bleeding and childbirth.
“Eons ago women might have said, “If you want to mate, bring me meat.” Today, mates might say, “If you want some honey, come home with the money, a job.” The prospect of sex, like the prospect of death, focuses the mind wonderfully.”
From the back seat the husband added, “If you are suggesting that sex drives human intellect and brain development, I agree. But it’s not simple. Perhaps this explains why insulin, testosterone, estrogen, follicle stimulating hormone, oxytocin, and other hormones are chemically identical in most animals.
The Afghan Queen: A True Story of an American Woman in Afghanistan Page 7