Pallid embroideresses arrived, delivering damasked cloths, hangings and eburnean hemstitched tablecloths, the very sight of which was blinding under the blazing sun; carpenters finished nailing and planing scaffolding, seats and platforms, in bizarre counterpoint to the disorderly practising of the musicians, who had come to try out the acoustics of the various natural theatres; architects squinted through puckered eyes as they verified the enfilade of an avenue, kneeling, wig grasped awkwardly in one hand, panting because of the great heat, as they checked again and again on the final effect of a mise-en-scene.
All this commotion was not without cause. In barely two days' time, Cardinal Fabrizio Spada would be solemnising the marriage of his one-and-twenty-year-old nephew Clemente, heir to the most copious fortune, with Maria Pulcheria Rocci, likewise the niece of a most eminent member of the Holy College of Cardinals.
In order worthily to celebrate the event, Cardinal Spada would be diverting with entertainments a multitude of prelates, nobles and cavaliers at the family villa, which stands, surrounded by magnificent gardens, on the Janiculum Hill near to the source of the Acqua Paola, whence one enjoys the loveliest and most aerial prospect of the city's roofs.
Such was the summer's heat that the villa seemed preferable to the family's grandiose and celebrated palace down in the city, in the Piazza Capo di Ferro, where the guests would not have been able to taste the delights of the countryside.
In advance of the ceremonies proper, festivities were already commencing that very day when, at around midday, as expected, the carriages of the more eager guests were already to be seen on the horizon. Noble names in plenty would soon be forgathering, together with churchmen coming from far and wide, the diplomatic representatives of the great powers, the members of the Holy College and scions and elders of all the great families. The first official entertainments were to take place on the day of the nuptials, when everything would be ready to bedazzle the guests with scenic effects both natural and ephemeral, with exotic flowers set among the native plants and papier maché challenging the onlooker to recognise it under a thousand guises, richer than the gold of Solomon, more elusive than the quicksilver of Hydria.
The cloud of dust from the carriages, which still moved seemingly without a sound because of the excessive clangour of the preparations, was drawing ever nearer and, from the high point of the great curve before the gates of the Villa Spada one could already descry the first flashes of the magnificent ornaments which adorned coaches and equipages.
The first to arrive, or so we had been told, would be the guests from outside Rome, who would thus be able to enjoy a well-deserved repose after the fatigues of the journey and to savour two evenings of gentle rustic peace. Thus they would come to the festivities refreshed, at ease and already diverted by a little merry-making; all of which would surely augment the general good humour and make for the greatest possible success of the celebrations.
The Roman guests, on the other hand, would have the choice of lodging at the Villa Spada or, if they were too occupied with official business or other matters, of arriving by carriage every day at midday and returning to their own residences in the evening.
After the wedding, there were to be several more days and evenings of the most spectacular and varied divertissements: hunting, music, theatrical performances, several parlour games and even an academy, all culminating in fireworks. Counting the wedding day, this would amount to a full week of festivities, until 15th July, when, before taking their leave, the guests would enjoy the special favour of being escorted into town to visit the resplendent and grandiose Palazzo Spada in Piazza Capo di Ferro, where the great-uncles of Cardinal Fabrizio had, together with the late Cardinal Bernardino and his brother Virgilio of precious memory, assembled half a century earlier a most imposing collection of pictures, books, antiquities and precious objects, not to mention the frescoes, the trompe l'oeil perspectives and all manner of architectural contrivances, on which I had never as yet set eyes but which I knew to have astounded all those who beheld them.
By now, the sight of the carriages on the horizon was accompanied by the distant clatter of their wheels on the cobbles and, looking carefully, I realised that, for the time being, only one carriage was arriving; indeed, said I to myself, gentlemen always took care to maintain a certain distance between their respective trains, so as to ensure that each should be correctly received and to avoid the risk of any involuntary discourtesy, as the latter not uncommonly degenerated into dissensions, lasting enmity and, heaven forfend, even into bloody duels.
On the present occasion, such risks were, in reality, limited by the adroitness of the Master of Ceremonies and the Major- Domo, the irreproachable Don Paschatio Melchiorri; these two would be seeing to the guests' reception, for, as was already known, Cardinal Fabrizio was much busied with his duties as Secretary of State.
As I tried to make out the coat of arms on the approaching carriage and could already distinguish the distant dust clouds from those that followed, once again I bethought myself of how sagacious a choice the Villa Spada had been as the theatre for the celebrations: in the gardens of the Janiculum, after sunset, cool air was assured. That, I knew well, as I had frequented the Villa Spada for no little time. My modest farm was but a short distance from there, outside the San Pancrazio Gate. My spouse Cloridia and I enjoyed the good fortune of being able to sell fresh potherbs and good fruit from our little field to the household of the Villa Spada; and from time to time I would be summoned for some special task, particularly when this involved climbing to some difficult place, such as rooftops or attics, operations which my small stature greatly facilitated. I was also called upon whenever there was a shortage of staff, as was the case on the occasion of the present celebration, when the entire establishment of Palazzo Spada had been transferred to work at the villa, and the Cardinal had taken advantage of the Palazzo being empty to have some work done on the interior decoration, including frescoes for the Alcove of the Spouses.
For two months or so, I had thus been under the orders of the Master Florist, industriously hoeing, planting, pruning and caring for the flowers. There was no little to be done. Villa Spada must not fail to make the right impression on behalf of its masters. The open space before the gates had been covered with little loggias all decorated with greenery which, trained to climb in fecund spirals, snaked soft and sweet-smelling around columns, pilasters and capitals, gradually thinning out until it merged into the fine embroidery of the arcades. The main carriage-drive, which in ordinary times passed between simple rows of vines, was now flanked by two marvellous sets of flower beds. Everywhere the walls had been painted green, with false windows depicted on them; the gentle sward, mown to perfection according to the instructions of the Master Florist, cried out for the contact of bare feet.
Arriving at the casino of the villa, that is to say, the great house, one was greeted by the welcome shade and the inebriating odour of an immense pergola of wisteria, supported by temporary arcades covered with greenery.
Next to the casino, the Italian garden had been made as new again. It was a secret, walled garden. Upon the walls that concealed it were painted landscapes and mythological scenes; from all sides, deities, cupids and satyrs peeped out, while within the garden, in the cool shade, whosoever wished to withdraw in quiet and contemplation, far from prying eyes, could admire, undisturbed, elms and Gapocotto poplars, wild cherry and plum trees, generous vines of sweet Zibibbo and other grapes, trees from Bologna and Naples, chestnuts, wild shrubs, quinces, plane trees, pomegranate bushes and mulberry trees, not to mention little fountains and waterspouts, trompe l'oeil perspectives, terraces and a thousand other attractions.
There followed the physic garden, likewise entirely and freshly replanted from end to end, wherein were grown fresh curative herbs for tisanes, cataplasms, plasters and every use known to the art of medicine. The medicinal plants were enclosed betwixt hedges of sage and rosemary pruned into strict geometrical shapes, their odours pene
trating the air and entrancing the visitor's senses. Behind the building, an avenue, passing close to the bosky shade of a little grove, led to the private chapel of the Spada family, where the nuptials were to be solemnised. Thence, following the slopes that led down towards the city, three drives fanned out, one of which led to an open-air theatre (built especially for the festivities, and now almost ready), the second, to a farmhouse (fitted out as a dormitory for the guards, actors, plumbers and others) and the third, to the back entrance.
Returning however to the front of the villa, in the midst of the rustic setting of the vineyard, a long avenue (parallel to that of the main carriage-drive, but more internal) led to the rotunda of the fountain with the nymphaeum and continued until it came at last to a well-tended little meadow whereon had been laid, for light meals in the open air, tables and benches copiously ornate with rich carvings and marquetry, shaded by sumptuous canopies of striped linen.
The unsuspecting visitor would halt, lost in admiration, until he became aware that this display was but the frame and invitation to the most spectacular sight of the whole vineyard; his eyes would squint in sudden amazement at that plunging vista over Roman bastions and battlements, extending on the right towards the horizon, as they emerged from the depths of their invisible, somnolent, millenary foundations. Eyelids would flutter as they beheld that dramatic and unexpected prospect and the heartbeat would quicken. Among those delights, o'erflowing with perfumes and enchantment, every thing seemed born for pleasure, all was poesy.
The Villa Spada rose thus to the occasion, no longer that modest but delightful summer residence almost eclipsed by the wealth and magnificence of the sumptuous Palazzo Spada in Piazza Capo di Ferro, but the great theatre of the forthcoming celebrations.
Now the villa could without blushing contend with the most famed of the summer pavilions built two centuries previously, when Giuliano da Sangallo and Baldassare Peruzzi graced Rome with their services, the former with his commission for the Villa Chigi, the latter with the villa which he designed for Cardinal Alidosi at Magliana, while Giulio Romano created the villa of the Datary Turini on the Janiculum, and Bramante and Raphael built the Vatican Belvedere and the Villa Madama respectively, both to ingenious designs.
In reality, it had since time immemorial been the custom of great lords to have elegant residences built in the nearby countryside in which to forget the daily round of cares and sorrows, even if they stayed there only a few times a year. Without going as far back as the rich mansions which the Romans had erected (and which were celebrated by so many excellent poets, from Horace to Catullus), I was well aware from my reading and from conversations with a few erudite booksellers (but even more with old peasants, who know the vineyards and gardens better than anyone) that, in the past two hundred years in particular, the great princes of Rome had made a fashion of building themselves pleasure pavilions on the outskirts of the city. The desolate no-man's-land and damp little fields within the Aurelian Wall and in its immediate vicinity had gradually given way to the vineyard and its casino, in other words to gardens and to villas.
While the first villas had battlements and turrets (still visible at the entrance of the otherwise undefended Capponi vineyard), an obvious legacy of the turbid Middle Ages when a gentleman's abode was also his fortress, within a few decades styles grew lighter and more serene and soon every nobleman boasted a residence with vineyards, vegetable gardens, fruit trees, woods or pine groves, thus creating the gentle illusion of possessing and exercising lordship over all that the eye could see without so much as moving from one's seat.
The flowering of scenic wonders within the villa's verdant bounds went well with the gay atmosphere reigning in the Holy City. The year of Our Lord 1700 was a Jubilee Year. Multitudes of pilgrims were converging from all the world over in hope of obtaining remission of their sins and benefit of the indulgence. No sooner did they arrive from the Via Romea at the ridge from which they could make out the cupola of Saint Peter's than the faithful (known therefore as "Romei") would intone a hymn to the most excellent of all cities, red with the purple blood of the martyrs and white with the lilies of the virgins of Christ. Hostelries, hospices, colleges and even private houses, which were subject to the law of hospitality, were full to overflowing with pilgrims; alleyways and piazzas resounded night and day to the footsteps of the pious as they filled the air with their litanies. The night was lit up by the torches of the confraternities who ceaselessly enlivened the streets of the central quarters. 'Midst so much fervour, even the cruel spectacle of the flagellants no longer inspired horror: the crack of the scourges with which the ascetics tormented their lacerated sweat- and blood-covered backs formed a counterpoint to the chaste chanting of novices in their cool cloisters.
No sooner had they arrived in the city of the Vicar of Christ than the pilgrims would converge upon Saint Peter's, and only after praying at the tomb of the apostle would they allow themselves a few hours' respite. On the next day, before leaving their lodgings, they would kneel on the ground, raise their hearts heavenward, cross themselves and meditate upon the life of Christ and of the Most Holy Virgin Mary; then, telling their rosary beads, they would begin the tour of the four Jubilee basilicas, followed by the Forty-hour Oration and the ascent of the Holy Ladder, whereby to obtain total and complete remission of sins.
All in all, everything seemed to be moving in perfect and joyous harmony for the twenty-fifth recurrence of those Jubilees which, since the time of Boniface VIII, had brought tens of thousands of Romei to Rome; and yet one could not truly say "everything", for an undertow of anguish and distress moved silently through the crowds of pilgrims and Romans: His Holiness was gravely ill.
Two years previously, Pope Innocent XII (whose baptismal name had been Antonio Pignatelli) had been struck down by a severe form of gout, which had gradually worsened until it prevented him from attending to affairs after the manner accustomed. In January of the Holy Year, there had been a slight improvement in his condition, and in February he had been able to hold a consistory. Owing to age and its infirmities, he was, however, in no condition to open the Holy Gate. The further the Holy Year advanced, the greater the number of pilgrims who arrived in Rome, and the Pope complained of his inability to accomplish the customary acts of devotion, in which bishops and cardinals had to substitute for him. The Cardinal Penitentiary heard the confessions of the faithful at Saint Peter's, where they arrived daily in their thousands.
In the last week of February, the Pontiff suffered a relapse. In April, he found the strength to bless the multitudes of the devout from the balcony of the Papal Palace at Monte Cavallo. In May, he even visited the four basilicas in person, and towards the end of the month he received the Grand Duke of Tuscany. By halfway through June, he seemed almost recovered; he had visited many churches as well as the fountain of San Pietro in Montorio, a stone's throw from the Villa Spada.
Nevertheless, all knew that His Holiness's health was as delicate as a snowflake in the advancing spring, and the heat of the summer months promised nothing good. Those close to the Pontiff spoke sotto voce of frequent crises of debility, of nightlong sufferings, of sudden and most cruel bouts of colic. After all, as the cardinals murmured gravely among themselves, the Holy Father was fourscore-and-five years of age.
There was, in other words, a distinct possibility that the Jubilee of the year 1700, happily inaugurated by Our Lord Innocent XII, might be closed by another pope: his successor. This was something unheard of, so people murmured in Rome; and yet was it not unthinkable. Some predicted a conclave in November, some, even in August. The most pessimistic opined that the heat of the summer would overwhelm the Pontiff's last defences.
The humour of the Curia (and that of every Roman) was thus torn between the serene atmosphere of the Jubilee and the grave tidings concerning the Pope's health. Even I had an intense personal interest in the question; for as long as the Holy Father lived, I would have the honour, however occasionally, of serving him whom Rome f
eared and honoured above all others: His Eminence Cardinal Spada, whom His Holiness had appointed as his Secretary of State.
I could not of course claim true acquaintance with the most illustrious and benign Cardinal Spada, but I heard it said that he was a most upright man, as well as being astute and exceedingly sharp-witted. It was no accident that His Holiness Innocent XII desired always to have him by his side. I therefore guessed that the festivities which were about to begin would be no ordinary convivial gathering of noble spirits but an august conference of cardinals, ambassadors, bishops, princes and other persons of quality; and all would raise their eyebrows in arches of astonishment at the performances of musicians and actors, the poetical divertissements, the oratorical displays, the rich symposia 'midst verdant settings and the papier mache theatres in the gardens of the Villa Spada, beguilements such as had not been seen in Rome since the times of the Barberini.
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