by Gloria White
Utah
www.naturalresources.utah.gov/
Permit only for exibitors
Summary of Law: A person may not possess live zoological animals that are classified as prohibited. Prohibited animals include, but are not limited to, the following families: Ursidae (bears), Canidae (all species), Felidae (all species except non-domesticated cats), Mustelidae (all species), Non-human primates, and certain species of reptiles, etc. However, in rare circumstances a person may possess these animals as a “pet” if the person obtains a certificate of registration from the Wildlife Board. Generally, exhibitors and educational and scientific facilities only obtain these registrations. A certificate of registration is not required for non-controlled species which alligators and crocodiles fall under.
Vermont
www.anr.state.vt.us/
Exhibitors only
Summary of Law: It is unlawful for persons to possess exotic animals, such as large felines, bears, wolves, poisonous reptiles, and non-human primates as “pets.” Persons may possess exotic animals for exhibition and educational purposes if they obtain a permit. Please note that the state statute says a person may not bring into the state or possess an exotic animal unless they obtain a permit. However, no personal possession permits for “pets” are issued to individuals.
Virginia
www.dgif.virgina.gov/
Foxes allowed but cannot look like a “wild fox”. That is, you cannot have a Red Fox but can have a different color morph.
Summary of Law: No person may possess nonnative exotic animals that are classed as predatory or undesirable as a “pet.” Nonnative exotic animals include, but are not limited to: bears, wolves, coyotes, weasels, badgers, hyenas, all species of non-domesticated cats, alligators, and crocodiles. Persons may possess these animals if they are a licensed exhibitor, i.e. commercial, educational or scientific uses. However, there are no state requirements for a person possessing non-human primates.
Washington State
www.dnr.wa.gov/
No Foxes allowed
Summary of Law: No person may possess or breed a potentially dangerous animal after July, 2007. A potentially dangerous animal includes but not limited to Large cats, wolves, bears, hyenas, non-human primates, elephants, alligators, crocodiles, water monitors, crocodile monitors; and various species of venomous snakes.
West Virginia
Permit required
Summary of Law: A person may not possess a dangerous non-native wild animal. Exotic animals can include mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, and fresh water fish that are not native wildlife, including hybrids -- a comprehensive list will be created by the Division of Natural Resources. Exotic animals owned prior to June 4, 2014 can be kept, as long as the owner obtains a permit. Accredited exhibitors, nonprofits, animal control agencies, wildlife rehabilitators, veterinary clinics, sanctuaries, researchers, and educational institutions are exempt from these rules.
Wisconsin
http://www.wi.gov/
Permit required
Summary of Law: Requires all animals commonly sold in pet shops to have certificates of veterinary inspection if they are brought from outside the state.
Wyoming
www.gf.state.wy.us/
No foxes allowed
Summary of Law: It is unlawful for persons to possess big or trophy game animals. Big game is defined as antelope, bighorn sheep, deer, elk, moose or mountain goat. Trophy game is defined as black bear, grizzly bear or mountain lion. According to WY Fish and Game, it is unlawful to possess all other exotic animals such as, tigers, lions, primates, wolves, bears, etc.
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OBTAINING YOUR FOX
Which Type of Fox Should I Get?
Assuming you are up to the challenge of owning and caring for a fox, the next step is to determine which type of fox to get. Again, there are ALWAYS exceptions to the rules. These are just some things that most fox owners generally agree upon:
Red Foxes
Generally easier to litter train
Generally have few aggression issues
Have a potent musky odor
Females generally weigh in around 12-pounds and males around 20-pounds
Lifespan of about 12 – 15 years
Arctic Foxes
Generally cannot be successfully litter trained
Generally have more aggression issues
Have very little of that musky odor
Females generally weigh in around 10-pounds and males around 17-pounds
Lifespan of about 10 – 15 years
A Little Bit About That Smell
Do foxes stink? Yes. But it’s not really their fur. The urine and feces of the fox is what really has that musky odor and foxes will mark things (like carpeting and furniture) with it. Foxes do have glands that excrete this smell as well. For example, the Arctic fox has a “violet gland” at the base of its tail. When they get upset, the gland turns noticeably yellow and they start to emit a slightly foul odor. I’ve also noticed with our Arctic that he seems to be able to squirt a little of this musky “juice”. Gross? Yes. But hey, if you have a fox you gotta learn to love it.
Generally, of the two species, Red Foxes have more odor than Arctics. To be honest, our Arctic smells no worse than a dog. Red Foxes, however, seem to have a more continual musk.
Finding Veterinary Care
Before buying your fox, please get a veterinarian lined up. You will be surprised how many vets will refuse to handle your fox. Most vets are not comfortable with foxes. Drugs and vaccines affect foxes differently than cats and dogs. For example, the simple subject of fleas can cause some debate. Does a fox get cat or dog versions of flea medication? Will it work on a fox? Nobody really knows what is best because there are no medications made just for foxes (at least, not that a normal vet would be familiar with). If at all possible, look for local vets that specialize in exotic animals, and try to find one that has experience with foxes. Please don’t assume you’ll be able to easily find a vet nearby. It took me about a dozen calls before I could find a vet willing to see my fox.
Buying a Fox
The first step is finding a good breeder (see below). However, expect to have to get on a waiting list about a year in advance. There are very few reputable fox breeders in the USA and they have a limited number of kits available. Typically you will put a deposit down on a fox about 6 – 12 months in advance and the breeder will “hold” a kit for you on a first-come, first-serve basis. Depending on the number of kits born, you may or may not get your fox (a reputable dealer will give you your deposit back if they didn’t have enough kits).
So, how much does a fox cost? It depends on the breeder. Typically you’re looking at somewhere between $400 to $1,000 for a Red or Arctic fox. Some breeders might charge more, especially for a particularly rare color morph.
Make sure that you can pick up your fox when the time comes to take possession. Some breeders might offer air-shipping for your kit, but I do not recommend. Even if you have to make an 8-hour drive, picking up is worth it. The kit will be locked in a plane’s storage unit in a dark box if you air-ship, and this can lead to him becoming scared and distrustful. Think of the car ride as another bonding experience!
Fox Breeders
You’re going to want to purchase your fox from a licensed breeder who specializes in breeding foxes specifically for pets. There are a very few of them in the USA right now. Be careful to avoid breeders who are only in it for the money, and also for scams (there are a TON of scam artists out there claiming to sell foxes). A good breeder has been breeding and selling foxes for years and will be able to tell you the disposition of the breeding pairs, what previous owners of their fox kits have experienced, provide care sheets and even on-going support after you bring the kit home. Research all breeders before buying!
The following are a few breeders that I either have experience with or come highly recommended by trusted fox owners. When you speak with the breeder, make sure that they pull
their kits early and bottle feed them. This is an extra step taking by good breeders to help ensure a more friendly Fox pet.
Tiny Tracks
http://www.tinytracksexoticanimals.com/
Lost River Game Farm
http://www.lostrivergamefarm.com/index.html
Hillview Exotics
http://www.hillviewexotics.net
Wess Exotic Animals
http://www.freewebs.com/wessexoticanimals/
When Are Fox Kits Available
Typically when you obtain a pet fox it will be in May or June (Reds), or July or August (Arctics). Fox kits are generally born in the spring and are ready to re-home within 4 – 6 weeks. This is younger than you would get a puppy or kitten, but it is the IDEAL age to bring them home. Foxes, unlike dogs and cats, require extra handling at this age to help ensure they bond with you, their new mommy or daddy. You have to get them very young! Handling and caring for them is CRUTIAL at this time! The more you handle and bond with your kit, the more loving and affectionate it will be as it gets older!
Most good Fox breeders will pull the kits from their mother at just 2 – 3 weeks old and bottle feed them until they are ready to re-home by the age of 4 – 6 weeks. When you obtain your fox, you may still need to do some bottle feeding. Ask your breeder. The main thing is: The fox kit is getting LOTS of human handling as a kit. From bottle feeding to playing, these first few weeks are crucial in the bonding process.
The Fox Kits Are So Cute I Want More Than One!
No you don’t. Get one fox. If you come home with more than one, the kit may bond more with its fellow kit than with you. This can lead to problems down the line. Please, start with one kit and devote all your time and attention to it. In a year or two, if all goes well, then it is time to consider another addition to your family.
Cats and Dogs and Foxes, Oh My!
So, you want a fox but already have some cats and dogs? No problem. Usually if the kit is introduced to the cats and dogs early he will view them all as part of the family. I have personally not had any issues with our fox harming, or being harmed by, our cats or dog. In our house the cats generally play with our fox more than our dog, but they all get along just fine. The key is slow introductions. Full grown cats can be territorial and may pick fights with your fox kit. Just monitor the situation and try not to let your fox kit get stressed.
Vaccines and Immunizations
Here we enter into some interesting and slightly scary territory. When you get a kitten or a puppy, the first thing you usually do is take them to the vet for a check-up and some immunizations. However, a fox is not a cat or a dog. There is NO vaccine approved for use in Foxes. That means if your Fox bites somebody, you’re in big trouble. If you get reported, it is likely that animal control will confiscate your fox for destruction. Don’t think it cannot happen to you. This has happened to many fox owners and is why I do not advise letting anybody but trusted friends and family handle your fox. If your fox bites a stranger and that stranger reports you, get ready for some legal troubles.
With that said, you can get your Fox vaccinated for rabies, distemper, etc., just keep in mind they are not approved and the vaccines will not hold up in any court. Also, many breeders and owners do NOT recommend any vaccines. In many cases, rabies vaccines have proven harmful to pet foxes. My breeder (who has been doing this for more than 30 years) only recommends the non-live virus rabies vaccine and ONLY if required by law.
To be clear, veterinarian care and the issue of immunizations is a subject for you, your vet and your breeder. This subject should not be taken lightly. Please make sure you obey all state and local laws regarding the veterinarian care of your fox.
Spay and Neutering
Again, this is a subject of debate. Generally speaking, it is a good idea to get your fox spayed or neutered as you would a cat or dog. Not only will this help (a little bit) with their musky odor, but it will also help (a little) with their urge to mark. It will also help with any undesired behaviors. Typically 6 – 8 months is when you would seek to have this procedure. Speak with your breeder and vet about options.
De-clawing, De-scenting and De-fanging
No, no, and no. That’s the answer to those three procedures. A fox’s claws are more akin to a dog and therefore cannot be de-clawed. Even for cats the procedure borders on cruel (they don’t remove the claw, they remove the entire knuckle!). As for de-scenting, the procedure does not exist, so if you can’t live with the musky odor, don’t get a fox. As for de-fanging, this is also a no. Not only would it be cruel, but it is unnecessary.
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CARE AND FEEDING
Housing
As a kit you’ll need to keep your baby fox indoors. This is to ensure he does not get into trouble, and also to help with the bonding. You don’t want the kit to be able to get his head stuck in any chainlink that might be part of the outdoor pen. Once grown, however, an outdoor pen is almost a necessity.
As kits I recommend getting a small dog kennel that you can keep inside. While you are away, and during the night, put the kit into the kennel. This will prevent your kit from getting into trouble when you cannot supervise him.
Red Foxes and Arctic Foxes can be kept as indoor pets, however it is highly recommended that you have an outdoor enclosure as well. Arctics appreciate the cool nights and even the cold winter days (they are Arctic foxes, you know!). All foxes appreciate the fresh air and a chance to dig and just do their own thing. A good outdoor pen will allow the fox to dig and burrow, and will also have some type of housing they can retreat into should they get scared, cold, or it starts to rain on them. Foxes also like to perch on high places, so shelves should be included (and are required in some states).
Obviously, the bigger you can make the pen, the better. A 10-ft wide, 10-foot wide and 10-foot high pen should be about the smallest. You want it high so you can install some ramps and high perches.
The big thing with outdoor pens is trying to make them secure. A chainlink fence is not good enough. Foxes are FAST diggers. They will dig under any fence. They are also good climbers and will climb over it. The pen will have to have a solid floor and a ceiling to prevent escape (chainlink works great for a ceiling and floor). For the floor, you can do chainlink but cover it with plenty of dirt, straw and / or woodchips. Concrete floors are also good (again, covered with dirt for them to dig in). Whatever it is, it has to be burrow-proof! Simply laying bricks or stones will not work as they can dig them up. Wood is not recommended as a flooring as it can become saturated with fox urine and start to stink. You’ll also need some good, heavy-gauge wire meshing for the walls that they cannot tear through. Chainlink fencing should work well.
Make sure you keep fresh water and some food available in the pen. If it is hot outside and you have an Arctic fox you may need to bring him indoors. Arctics do not do well in the hot summer months. Even for Reds, some type of shaded area or enclosure should be available in the pen just in case they get too hot.
Whether your fox is indoors or outdoors, he will need things to occupy his time. Red foxes like to climb. Outdoor pens should have ramps for them. Indoors this might be harder to accommodate, but I have seen plenty of Reds that love playing on those big “cat trees” with all the ledges and hidey-holes. Also, those nylon mesh tunnels that they make for kids to crawl through provide plenty of entertainment. Most dog toys are also appreciated, such as chew bones and the like. Most toys that are safe for dogs are safe for foxes. However, the stuffed animals with the squeakers might not be a good idea. I have known foxes (and dogs) to rip them open and try to eat the plastic squeaker.
Feeding
The main difference between a fox’s diet and that of a dog or cat is that they need more taurine. They do sell special “fox feed” (it’s what fox fur farmers use), but I don’t recommend it. I find that feeding a high-quality cat food (our foxes don’t like the dog food as much) such as Blue Buffalo or Blue Wilderness works well, but you’ll also have to supplement with “
real” foods. Remember: Foxes need extra taurine. Chicken and turkey giblets are a great source for this (and cheap to obtain). Also supplement with fruits and vegetables.
There are many fox owners who feed their fox live mice and other rodents, but I advise against this. For one, you are trying to raise a domestic fox, so don’t encourage hunting habits; and for two, mice and rodents might have disease and get your fox sick (and remember that there are no approved rabies vaccines for foxes!). Some people also advocate giving foxes raw meats. I do not. I recommend cooking all meats.
I find that the best way to feed your fox is to offer up a quality kibble or canned food (again, Blue Wilderness comes to mind) and supplement with some table scraps. Your fox will love pieces of chicken and turkey. He will go nuts for some apple and sweet potatoes. Eggs are another favorite. Peanut butter makes a yummy snack. Give beef sparingly (poultry is a better option). Oh, and marshmallows make fantastic treats and rewards (but give sparingly!). Experiment with the food you offer. Foxes appreciate all types of fruits and veges (and even an insect now and then). Just be careful, as some foods can be harmful (we all know dogs can’t have chocolate, and neither should a fox).
Do not feed your fox any of the following:
Chocolate
Anything with caffeine
Onions
Garlic
Grapes* or raisins
Anything spicy
*Grapes seem to be a controversial food. I myself have given my fox grapes and he loves them. Some vets claim that grapes can be harmful to animals and lead to kidney problems. If you do offer grapes, do it sparingly (just to be safe).
Grooming
Just like a dog or cat, your fox will require regular grooming (especially during shedding season where you’ll brush enough fur off to make a jacket!). For brushing, I recommend a good, quality dog brush. Just like you would any other pet, gently brush out their fur once a week to remove loose and shedding fur. Nails must also be trimmed two or three times a month. Clipping a fox’s nails is very much like clipping a dog’s: use a high-quality nail clipper (available at any pet store) and trim the nail back being very careful not to clip into the quick (the blood vessels that can usually be seen extending into the base of the nail).