The architecture is truly amazing. The Greeks know a thing or two about design, build, and acoustics!
Sitting in the circular Speakers’ chamber (the head of Government and Parliament etc.), Valerie could hear me from 50metres across the chamber, even though I was almost whispering! The mosaics are the originals, and in fantastic condition! Precision engineering and construction at its best; truly awesome!
Photo: Speakers’ Chamber.
It is best to see Ancient Messene as early in the morning as you can because it gets so hot on the inland site. Although it is situated on a hillside, it is in a kind of gorge / bowl protected from any wind or breezes, so it gets very hot indeed. If you ever go, be warned!
It takes around three hours to walk the site, so to do it in the cooler temperatures of the early morning is best.
We had arrived around about 8am, so by 11.30am we were ready to leave and find a bar for a long cool drink to revive us. As there are no facilities of any kind at the archaeological site, we stopped on the road back to Kalamata for a ‘comfort break’ and a drink.
Whilst we were having our drink, we were deciding where to have lunch. Old Town? No. We’ve been there recently. Kitries (a small fishing village with two tavernas on the water’s edge)? No. As it is only 15 minutes’ drive from Kalamata, it would be too early for lunch.
“How about Exochori Gorge?” Valerie suggested.
“We were going to go there anyway, and the hotel may be open,” she continued.
Exochori Gorge is about an hour’s drive from where we sat. We just hoped that when we got there that the small hotel built there would be serving food.
Of the last two times we visited the gorge, once the hotel was open, but not serving food, and the other time it was closed altogether. Third time lucky? We were in luck!
Being so high up, at around 2000 meters, it is often in the cloud, mist or rain, or all three! Today, it was brilliantly sunny, and the view was spectacular. More to the point, the kitchen was open! We ordered our food and whilst we waited, we absorbed the magnificence of it all and the eerie silence. Truly breath-taking!
We were the only visitors and diners, so it was as though we had booked the place for a private party! Life doesn’t get much better than this! We stayed for a couple of hours as we were in no rush. After all, it is such a rare treat not to be weeding all day, or, in my case, so hard at work ‘Watching The Olives Grow!’
Photo: View Of Exochori Gorge.
How should we end this perfect day? We had seen at first-hand two entirely different but two remarkable sites; both steeped in history, and both of incredible awe inspiring beauty. So, we decided to head for Kardamyli, and more history. We had decided that maybe we should walk around the ruins of the Medieval Town. It too is a very quiet spot, and we thought that it would be nice to see the sun setting and casting its long, last rays of sunlight of the day over the buildings. We spent a lovely hour just walking around the ruins and the small cobbled streets that lead up to it. All those hundreds of years ago in Medieval times it was a very busy and crowded town.
The Mayor of the modern town has secured a grant from the EEC to restore the ruins and try to turn it into a tourist attraction.
Little by little, the restoration is progressing, but for now, we enjoyed the beauty of the stand-alone bell tower alongside the church.
Kardamyli is a fascinating little town. Well, more of a village. It has a main street that runs the entire length of the community, and it is located just 100 metres back from the sea. Nowadays it is a centre for peace and relaxation, and is favoured by Mountain Walkers and Artists who can be seen eating their breakfasts at the roadside bars, and then not again until early evening when they return for a drink and a chat to relate their days’ activities. In between time, the village is very quiet and often seems deserted.
We like it!
Photo: Ruin Of Medieval Church.
As the last rays of the sunshine slipped below the horizon, and the shadows lengthened we headed for home and a different kind of beauty, peace and quiet. We had had a great day. We were tired but happy. We poured ourselves a nightcap, and as we headed for a gentle stroll around the garden, we talked about the memories of this day; three incredible sites of ancient history. The only sound we could hear was the gentle ‘gurgle’ as the watering system got to work.
The next day we were on the road again heading for Limani and our promised fish meal.
The fishing village of Limani is only a few hundred years old at most, and pales into insignificance by comparison to yesterday’s locations.
There are two fish restaurants of note. At one, they have a quaint display stand to show off the catch of the day as available; a boat!
Photo: Fish On Display.
We drove to the other; situated on the water’s edge; our favourite.
Photo:Tables Along The Jetty At The Water’s Edge.
The dining tables are set out along the jetty at the water’s edge. The sea is gently lapping against the concrete jetty, and is about one metre below.
The fishing boat unloads its catch first thing in the morning and it is sorted, and put on display for diners to choose the one(s) that they want. The waiter weighs it (the fish is priced per kilo), then he takes it to the water’s edge to scale, gut, and generally clean it in preparation for going onto the charcoal grill.
All in all, it is an amazing dining experience. We think it best for lunch. First of all, there is the sun and the sea and the gentle breeze off the water as it laps against the jetty by your feet. Then there is the view across the bay. Last but most definitely not the least, there is the fantastic aroma of the fish grilling on the charcoal barbeque just a few feet away from where you are sitting!
Photos: Fish Being Prepared.
Photo: Fish Doesn’t Get Fresher Than This!
So, we have thoroughly spoiled ourselves this last week. We call it our ‘L’Oreal moment’ – because we are worth it!
Now it’s back to austerity and work. I’m off to Athens and have to start painting the fence before I go; a daunting task!
There are 29 pillars, 368 upright struts and 92 metres of cross-member supports to be painted. Painting in ‘hammered’ finish Hammerite is hard work in the heat as the paint almost dries on the brush!
Meanwhile, Valerie is back to the weeding!
Monday 18th October 2010 is a day we are never likely to forget!
Valerie had decided to come to Athens with me for 48 hours. She was coming not just to get a bath at the hotel, but also to be a proper ‘tourist’ as she planned to walk the City Centre, visit the ancient sites and watch the Changing of the Guard ceremony outside Parliament.
We had done all our various chores at Meerkat Manor, packed our bags, arranged for Anne Grethe to feed Owen and Minstrel and we were well on our way when my ‘phone ‘beeped’ with a text received signal. It read as follows:
“Stavros. Kalimera! Alan here. Stella and I have just arrived from Austria for our five month stay in the Mani Village apartment. Guess what? We have found Snowball sitting on the front doorstep!”
What? ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! I could not believe what I was reading!
Snowball safe and sound. Wow! We had given up all hope of seeing her again. I had even gone back to the house they rent (where she came from), at least two times per week since she went missing, to see if she had somehow gone back there. No sign of her whatsoever.
The last time was just last Saturday.
As usual, I looked all around the houses there, the gardens and the Olive groves but still no sign of her; nothing.
You will remember that it was Alan who took pity on Snowball and her kittens last October. Alan had seen her and the kittens as they kept hanging around outside his house begging for food, and he decided to feed and look after them. As they left to go back to Austria in the March of this year, he found homes for the kittens and we had Snowball.
Alan and Stella knew that Snowball had gone missing, and wa
s saddened when he heard from us. She had been gone for 13 weeks and somehow she had returned there just in time! He must now be as excited as we were!
You can imagine how pleased we were to get this news and so excited. We were also frustrated that we couldn't return until Thursday morning!
We sent texts about every four hours for those three days that we were in Athens,
"Is she still there?" etc.
Alan replied each time,
"Yes, she's here."
"Just had her breakfast."
"Sleeping on the front terrace" etc. etc.
It was so good to get the positive replies.
We would have been heartbroken (again) to hear that she had returned and then gone off again without us seeing her.
Still, as Valerie kept reminding me, whether she stayed long enough for us to see her again, at least we knew for certain that no harm had come to her and that she was still alive and well. They had been 13 long weeks for us, and we couldn’t help but wonder where had she been all that time?
We went around first thing on Thursday morning when we had returned from Athens, and there she was, and she recognised us too. She came and nuzzled us, and sat down at our feet. She looked a bit thin but very clean, and she had lost her collar, but otherwise in good condition. I had forgotten how marvellous her eyes are. Bright golden yellow with small black pupils, the same colour as a Lion!
However, beyond our initial relief and excitement at seeing her, she would not go in the cat carrier to bring her home! She absolutely hates being picked up. Valerie got scratched when she picked her up to put her in it, as she struggled to be free. It was not deliberate, but we guess that is in part because of her being a wild cat originally, but also because we will never know how she had been treated previously. It is likely that she was taken in and became part domestic in somebody else's family, but thrown out when she had the kittens.
People can be so horrid with animals, thank goodness for nice people like Alan and Stella!
Anyway, we tried to put her in the carrier again on Thursday and Friday and she kept running away. We even put food inside it at the back to tempt her in, but she just put her head in to eat it and kept her back legs firmly on the ground outside!
Eventually Alan got her in it on the Saturday afternoon and brought her around to Meerkat Manor. We kept her locked in the Studio apartment for Saturday and all day Sunday.
She was eating non-stop but seemed quite happy and didn't try and run for it when we opened the door to go inside!
On Monday morning, we opened the door, left it open, and put food on the terrace. This was the 'risky' moment. Would she run off?
Out she came, ate the food and ran straight down the steps and ran into the house! Phew! Our hearts had been in our mouths!
She went from room to room miaowing, and we guess she recognised everywhere from before, and then she went and lay down on one of the chairs and slept for a couple of hours. So far so good.
Later on Saturday afternoon, she jumped up on to the garden wall and walked all the way around the perimeter. Was she going to jump and run away? We would soon find out! She did jump, and she set off across the Olive grove. However she only went about 100 metres and then returned to the wall. Phew! Once again we were we relieved.
She proceeded to do this on all points of the compass around the house. We think that she must have been marking her territory and reminding herself what was out there.
Saturday night she slept at our feet as we had our dinner, and we decided to keep her in for the night in our house. Against all our 'rules' we allowed her to sleep on the bed! We had put out a blanket on a chair, as well as her basket, but she preferred jumping up on to the bed and snuggling down on top of our sheet, right between the two of us!
She stayed like that all night until I got up and then she came into the kitchen with me. As I made my cup of tea, she was purring and miaouwing continuously. She seemed to be pleased to be home. I gave her some food, which went down very quickly, and then opened the door and off she went.
Same as the day before, she went quartering the Olive grove. Also, as before, she came back, and proceeded to walk around the perimeter wall, and then around the garden itself. Finally she settled down for a nap on a rock.
Photo: Snowball Settling Down On The Rock.
So, that was Monday and Tuesday; safe and not running away. She repeated the same sleeping pattern yesterday too, and still sleeping on our bed with us!
As I'm writing this at 9am on Wednesday, she has been for her walk and is now sleeping on the chair on the terrace. We are living in hope that she won't wander off again. We can only conclude that she must have had a scare, whilst we were in London, and run away.
Although Tony and Elaine fed the Owen, Minstrel and Snowball everyday whilst we were in London, the front door to the house was closed during the day. Hitherto, she would always be running in and out just to see us and say 'hello' etc. and of course she couldn't do this whilst we were away.
Maybe a dog chased her and she ran off?
Maybe one of the men shooting their rifles shot at her and scared her? Well, without a tail, maybe from a distance she looks like a rabbit!
We'll never know, but what we do know is that we are so pleased to have her home, and early signs are that she will settle down with us once again.
The same cannot yet be said by Owen and Minstrel! They are taking time getting adjusted to having her around again. We guess that they thought they had got rid of her when she didn’t turn up to be fed!
So, once more there are three bowls for food and the ‘treats’ have to be shared three ways!
At the moment, Owen and Minstrel are not happy cats, but they will get over it in time.
Not surprisingly, one cat is very happy; Snowball.
On the Saturday, we went on an organised walk around the churches and the mountain villages of Nomitsi and Thalames, and were gone for three hours and left Snowball outside the house to test the situation. It had to be done sometime, and we decided sooner rather than later.
She was still there when we returned, so we were relived. We recognise that we cannot become ‘hermits’ but we do have to be careful in leaving her alone at home again for the first few months.
Today is the last day of October, and I am following my daily routine; much happier now that Snowball is back with us. I am driving along the road from Pantazi Beach towards the harbour of Agios Nikolaos, and I have the windows of the car open.
The sun is shining and the sea is calm; a brilliant day! Yet, remarkably I’m in a short sleeved shirt, and it is only 7.30am on the 31st of October.
Another day in ‘Paradise’ here in The Mani!
After getting the bread and cooking breakfast, it will be time to get back to work, and for Valerie, it is back to the weeding, and for me to continue painting the railings. I’ve completed nine metres so far. Only another 36 metres to go!
I’m due to go to Athens again in December, but already we have decided that Valerie will stay here at Meerkat Manor to keep the front door open, just in case!
As I sign off for October, I can report that Snowball is still here at Meerkat Manor. She seems happy and settled again, and is venturing further out into the Olive tree groves and returning after around 30 minutes or so.
However, she is still breaking the ‘rules’ by sleeping on the end of the bed! We will try to let her out at night during November to see what happens.
NOVEMBER 2010
Today, I will take what will be the last photo of the tree. Next month it will be time for the harvest, and the locals are suggesting that it will be early December. They are expressing concern about the size and quality, because there wasn’t enough rainfall in the spring (March and April) and also during September.
The Olive trees need some rain in order to ensure the Olives ‘Plump’ up. I began to wonder if I should start to be worried about the quality of our Olives?
As the day has been so hot and sunny
, there was a great sunset, and as the clouds began to drift across the sea towards the horizon, the pink and orange hue was fantastic to witness.
Photo: Olive tree As ‘Watched’ at Sunset On 1st November 2010.
After I had taken the photograph, I decided to take a closer look at the Olives. Even in the twilight, I could see the large clusters of Olives on ‘the’ tree, and, to me, they look like they are growing nicely. However, upon much closer inspection, I had to concede to myself that they are still quite small, and ‘firmer’ rather than ‘softer and plump’.
I went back inside the house and took a closer look at my September and October ‘Watching’ photos and I noted that the Olives didn’t really appear to have changed much at all over the two months since I took them, compared to today’s inspection. Obviously, I’m hoping that my ‘Watching’, general interest, and encouragement will have helped and that, despite their comparatively small size, they will produce the oil for us!
I’m also hoping that, despite the lack of rainfall, they will accelerate their growth. They need to increase in their size, and they need to be nice and ‘Plump’, and there’s a way to go yet!
So, somewhat disheartened and concerned after close examination of my ‘Watching’ photos, I returned to the ‘Watching’ terrace to sit and decide what to do next today. As I sat there marvelling at the colour of the sky, I had a brainwave! What about having a bonfire and some fireworks to celebrate 5th November?
During October, there had been quite a lot of building activity going on around Meerkat Manor. First of all there was Anne Grethe’s water, electricity and sewage connections, as well as some repairs to her stone wall and steps up to her terrace. There was also the digging out of the foundations for a new house to be built on a plot of land nearby.
Watching the Olives Grow Page 18