2. George Mallory, ‘Everest unvanquished’, op. cit.
3. Letter from George Mallory to his wife, 19 April 1924.
4. Email from Professor George Rodway to GH.
postscript: Goodbye to Everest
1. Quoted by GH in High, op. cit.
Credits
Text
The quotations from ‘A Summer Night’ and ‘Johnny’ by W. H. Auden are courtesy of the Estate of W. H. Auden. The quotation from ‘The Yak’ by Hilaire Belloc is courtesy of the Estate of Hilaire Belloc. The quotation from The Waste Land (lines 359–65) by T. S. Eliot is © Faber & Faber and courtesy of the Eliot Estate. All other quotations are as cited in the text.
Plates
Plate 1 © Bonington Library; Plate 2: top left © Salkeld Collection; top right © National Portrait Gallery; bottom © Tate Gallery; Plate 3: top © Imperial War Museum; bottom © Salkeld Collection; Plate 4: top left © The Times Picture Library; top right © Salkeld Collection; bottom left © Salkeld Collection; bottom right courtesy of private collection; Plate 5: top © John Noel Photographic Collection; bottom left © Royal Geographical Society; bottom right © Finch Family Collection; Plate 6: top left © The Alpine Club; top right © Finch Family Collection; bottom © The Times Picture Library; Plate 7: top © John Noel Photographic Collection; bottom left © Royal Geographical Society; bottom right, courtesy of private collection; Plate 8: top © The Alpine Club; bottom © Royal Geographical Society; Plate 9: top left © The Alpine Club; top right © John Noel Photographic Collection; bottom © The Alpine Club; Plate 10: top and bottom © John Noel Photographic Collection; Plate 11: top © Royal Geographical Society; bottom © Norton Everest Archive; Plate 12: top © Mark Thiessen, National Geographic Society; bottom © Julie Summers; Plate 13: top and bottom © Getty Images; Plate 14 © Royal Geographical Society; Plate 15: top © Steve Bell; bottom © Graham Hoyland; Plate 16: top left © Rachel Gilliatt; centre right © Salkeld Collection; bottom © Graham Hoyland.
While every effort has been made to trace the owners of copyright material reproduced herein and secure permissions, the publishers would like to apologise for any omissions and will be pleased to incorporate missing acknowledgements in any future edition of this book.
Acknowledgements
No one ever reads the acknowledgements pages, do they? Only those who should have been thanked. It is a long list in this case, and I hope I have remembered everyone.
In no particular order, then, thanks to Audrey Salkeld, who with Tom Holzel reignited the whole debate about Mallory and Irvine. She has supported me through thick and thin, with letters, pictures and advice, and is the most tireless of all the Mount Everest historians. There is my cousin Jim Hoyland, who always supported my quest, and at whose house I met another relative, Howard Somervell. Thanks go to his son, David Somervell, who gave me two of his father’s precious pictures of Tibet in the 1920s and shared his memories of him, and to John Doncaster Hoyland’s sister – and my aunt – Rachel Gilliatt, for the photograph of JDH.
There are the writers: David Seddon, whose excellent monograph on Howard Somervell dealt with all the facets of that remarkable man, in particular his painting. The Gillmans and Wade Davis, for their extraordinary scholarship, and Tony Smythe for his help with his father’s finding of John Hoyland.
Then there is a furnishing of professors: Professor George Rodway, who got this book published by drawing it to Collins’s attention; Professor Mary Rose, who with Mike Parsons made the replica-clothing project happen; Professor Mike Searle, for his knowledge of Mount Everest’s geology; and Professor Kent Moore, whose findings clinched the meteorological evidence for me.
The climbers: David Breashears, Russell Brice and Mark Vallance all belong to that hardy breed, and they all helped in their different ways.
The Mallory family, John, George and Virginia, were all welcoming and helpful, and so too was the Irvine family, in particular Julie Summers, Sandy’s great-niece.
The readers: my cousin Bill Mathew, my girlfriend Gina Waggott, my aunt Rachel, brother Denys, and editors Myles Archibald, Mark Bolland and Tony Wayte all helped with sensitive and helpful criticism.
The equipment makers: Berghaus, Garmin, Henri Lloyd and Panasonic are all supporting my Seven Seas, Seven Summits voyage around the world with their excellent products.
Picture Section
About the Author
GRAHAM HOYLAND was the 15th Briton to climb Mount Everest, has been on nine expeditions to the mountain, and was responsible for the finding of George Mallory’s body high on the North Face. A producer and director of adventure films, Hoyland has worked on all seven continents for the BBC, Discovery, the Travel Channel and NBC, from the shores of Antarctica to the peaks of the Himalayas. He writes for the Independent and gives lectures on his project, the first Seven Seas, Seven Summits circumnavigation of the world by yacht.
Praise for Graham Hoyland:
‘You have never read a book like Last Hours on Everest … Graham Hoyland has created a towering work full of twists and turns, like the backdrop’
Independent
‘Great book, great vision.’
BRIAN BLESSED
sevenseassevensummits.com
grahamhoyland.com
Copyright
William Collins
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First published in Great Britain by Collins in 2013
This edition published by William Collins in 2014
Text © Graham Hoyland 2013
Graham Hoyland asserts his moral right to
be identified as the author of this work
A catalogue record of this book is
available from the British Library
Cover photograph by Bartosz Hadyniak © Gettyimages
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