by Gil Marks
1 to 2 teaspoons ground coriander
½ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon ground fenugreek
2 bay leaves
About 1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt
Ground black pepper to taste
¼ to ½ cup ground walnuts (optional)
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus additional for garnish
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus additional for garnish
¼ cup chopped fresh dill or basil, plus additional for garnish
1. In a large pot, bring the bones and water to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, occasionally skimming the scum from the surface, for 4 hours. Discard the bones.
2. Add the beef pieces and simmer until nearly tender, about 2 hours.
3. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until golden, about 15 minutes. Stir in the garlic, then the tomato paste, and sauté until the paste begins to darken, 2 to 3 minutes.
4. Stir the onion mixture into the soup. Add the tomatoes and rice, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes.
5. Add the tkhlopi, chili, coriander, paprika, fenugreek, bay leaves, salt, pepper, and, if using, walnuts. Simmer, uncovered, until the rice is nearly tender, about 18 minutes.
6. Add the cilantro, parsley, and dill and simmer for 5 minutes. Ladle into serving bowls and garnish with additional chopped fresh herbs. Serve with deda puri (Georgian flatbread) or pita bread.
Khobz
Khobz is the Arabic word for bread. The standard khobz is a round, somewhat flat, slightly coarse and dense, and rather plain loaf.
Origin: Middle East
Other names: Arabic: khobez, khubz; Berber: kisra, ksra.
In Morocco, bread is a staple, served at every meal. Those who work away from home typically take a loaf with them for lunch. Moroccans by and large disparage those who buy bread and insist on homemade; these breads are generally prepared on a daily basis, sometimes twice a day. Khobz el-dâr (bread of the house) is typically leavened with a starter dough and kneaded in a gsaa (massive unglazed earthenware bowl) or a bowl carved from wood. Although the French introduced the baguette to the Maghreb, most people favor the standard khobz. Many Moroccans find pure white bread too bland and fluffy and, instead, prefer partially whole wheat loaves or partially semolina loaves (khobz dyal smida). The larger the proportion of semolina flour, the yellower the color and the chewier the texture. For variety and special occasions, the breads are flavored with anise seeds.
The shape of khobz produces plenty of crust, which is handy for dipping and scooping. Pieces of the absorbent bread are torn off and dipped into tagines or salads or used to transport a piece of stew to the mouth. For breakfast, khobz is sometimes served with amalou, a spread made by browning ground almonds in a little oil, then pounding them with honey until smooth.
In the past, most Moroccan kitchens contained only a kanoun (an earthenware brazier) on which to cook. As a result, there were generally two types of bread. For khobz al-tajin, the dough was pressed into very thin loaves and cooked on a mikla (earthenware griddle) set over the kanoun, and turned to brown on both sides. For thicker breads, generally about an inch thick in the center, the loaves were prepared and left to rise at home, then sent to the communal oven for baking, each family's bread identified by a special stamp. Even today, a number of commercial Moroccan bakeries do not sell bread, but rather sell space in their wood-fired ovens for homemade loaves.
Moroccan Jews use their thick, round everyday breads for Sabbath and holidays, too, although seasonings like anise seeds may be added.
Historically, Moroccans did not prepare special or enriched loaves for the Sabbath and festivals, but rather used their everyday khobz, although usually flavored with anise seeds for the occasion (pain de Shabbat). A pattern is sometimes made in the bread by pricking the risen loaf around the outside at three-quarter-inch intervals. A thicker, anise-flavored loaf is traditional on Rosh Hashanah—the rounded shape representing the cycle of the year. Almonds and rose water are sometimes added for Shavuot and Sukkot.
(See also Bread and Pita)
Moroccan Anise Bread (Khobz)
2 medium loaves
[PAREVE]
1 package (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast or 1 (0.6-ounce) cake fresh yeast
1½ cups warm water (105°F to 115°F for dry yeast; 80°F to 85°F for fresh yeast)
1 teaspoon sugar or honey
1 tablespoon anise seeds, crushed
½ teaspoon caraway seeds (optional)
2 teaspoons table salt or 4 teaspoons kosher salt
1 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil (optional)
About 4 cups (20 ounces) bread or unbleached all-purpose flour; or 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour and 1 cup whole-wheat flour or fine semolina; or 2 cups whole-wheat flour, ½ cup fine semolina, and about 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
Cornmeal or semolina for dusting
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons sesame seeds (optional)
1. Dissolve the yeast in ¼ cup water. Stir in the sugar and let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the yeast mixture, remaining water, anise, optional caraway, salt, optional oil, and 2 cups flour. Gradually add enough of the remaining flour to make a mixture that holds together.
2. On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough until smooth and elastic, 10 to 15 minutes. Place in an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours.
3. Punch down the dough, knead briefly, divide in half, and shape each piece into a ball. Cover and let rest for at least 15 minutes.
4. Sprinkle a large baking sheet with cornmeal, or line the sheet with parchment paper. Shape each dough ball into a flat 6-inch round and place on the prepared sheet. Cover and let rise until almost doubled in bulk, about 1½ hours.
5. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
6. With the tines of a fork or a toothpick, prick the dough around the sides at ¾-inch intervals. Brush with the egg white and, if using, sprinkle with the sesame seeds.
7. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300°F and bake until golden brown and hollow sounding when tapped on the bottom, about 30 minutes. Transfer the loaves to a wire rack and let cool.
Kheer
Kheer is a creamy cardamom-flavored rice pudding.
Origin: India
Other names: Southern India: payasam.
Kheer, from the Sanskrit word ksheer (milk), is a rice pudding from northern India. Records of kheer date back at least two thousand years. Milk is actually the predominant element, and instead of rice, some versions are made with barley and semolina. A version made with coconut milk, common in the south, is prepared for kosher meat meals. Neither eggs nor additional starch are added. Instead, the pudding is thickened by cooking the rice or other grain until it breaks down to a creamy consistency of a porridge. The preferred rice is basmati (literally "queen of fragrance"), which is aromatic and flavorful.
Kheer is a favorite treat among the Bene Israel of Mumbai, who commonly serve it at special occasions and to break a fast.
Indian Rice Pudding (Kheer)
5 to 6 servings
[DAIRY]
3 quarts milk
½ cup basmati rice or other long- or medium-grain rice
3 to 5 green cardamom pods, bruised, or ¼ to 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
½ to ¾ cup jaggery or sugar
Pinch of salt
½ cup raisins (optional)
About ¼ teaspoon saffron strands (optional)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract or 2 to 3 teaspoons rose water
½ cup chopped almonds and/or pistachios for garnish
1. In a large, heavy saucepan, bring the milk to a low boil over medium heat. Add the rice and cardamom, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, uncovered, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until reduced by about half and t
hickened, about 1¼ hours. If using cardamom pods, remove them.
2. Add the sugar, salt, and, if using, raisins and/or saffron. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the flavors meld, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Serve warm or chilled. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming. Garnish with the nuts.
Khenaghi
These dumplings—incorporating the Georgian favorite, walnuts—are popular Passover fare. They are served warm in chicken or lamb soup, or cool with a pomegranate sauce (narsharab) or walnut sauce (bazha).
Georgian Walnut Matza Balls (Khenaghi)
about 18 dumplings
[PAREVE]
2 cups finely ground walnuts
½ cup matza meal
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup minced yellow onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or flat-leaf parsley
About 1 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper to taste
2 large egg whites
1. In a large bowl, combine the walnuts, matza meal, eggs, onion, oregano, salt, and pepper. In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry and fold into the walnut mixture.
2. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Using moistened hands, shape the batter into 1½-inch balls. Drop the khenaghi into the boiling water and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon. Serve hot or cold with a savory sauce or in chicken soup.
Khoresh
Khoresh is a sauce-stew of meat and seasonings that is slow-cooked.
Origin: Persia
Other names: horisht, khoresht.
Before the advent of refrigeration, inspired cooks had to find ways to preserve foods. In Persia, meat was cut into one-inch cubes and sautéed in fat with favorite spices. These meat cubes, called gheimeh, were then stored in crocks in a cool place and, when needed, cooked in a small amount of water to produce a sauce-stew known as khoresh (derived from the Persian word khordan, "to eat"). The basic meat is usually stretched and complemented with the addition of seasonal produce, fruit, and herbs to create a vast array of stews that serve as regular fare. Jews, unlike Muslims, do not use butter in their stews. The combination of khoresh over chelow (rice), called chelow khoresh, constitutes the essence of Persian cuisine.
Today, khoresh is generally made fresh and not from stored cooked meat, but the process and seasonings remain the same. Versions are also made with chicken and fish, but those are usually reserved for special occasions. The meat is simmered for an extended time over low heat to build and meld the flavors and tenderize the meat. These sauces, reflecting the Persian tradition of balancing hot and cold, tend toward the tart side, are subtly spiced, and frequently contain fresh herbs. Tartness is typically produced by adding ground dried limes. Two of the most popular dishes are khoresh-e sabzi (with fresh herbs) and khoresh-e geimeh lapeh (with split peas); often served for the Sabbath holidays, and other special occasions. Khoresh-e bay (with quince) is served for Rosh Hashanah. Spring variations typically contain spinach, eggplant, cardoon, celery, or rhubarb; fresh cherries, plums, peaches, tangerines, and okra are popular during the summer. Autumn versions feature apples, pomegranates, quinces, and pumpkins; dried fruits replace fresh ones during the winter.
(See also Chelow/Polow and Fesenjan)
Persian Meat Sauce-Stew (Khoresh)
3 to 4 servings
[MEAT]
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 pound boneless lamb shoulder or beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 leek (white part only) or 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon or ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
About 2 cups water
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lime or lemon juice, or 1 tablespoon dried lime powder (limuomani; see Citrus)
About ¾ teaspoon table salt or 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
About ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1. In a large, heavy pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the meat, leek, cinnamon, turmeric, and nutmeg and sauté until the meat is browned, about 10 minutes.
2. Add the water, lime juice, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer—adding a little more water if too much liquid evaporates—until the meat is tender and the sauce is thick, about 2 hours. The khoresh can be prepared 1 or 2 days ahead and reheated. Serve with rice.
Variations
Persian Beef Stew with Herbs (Khoresh-e Sabzi):
With the water, add 1 pound finely chopped fresh spinach or 20 ounces frozen spinach, 1 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (or ½ cup parsley and ½ cup cilantro), and ½ cup chopped scallions.
Persian Beef And Quince Stew (Khoresh-E Bay):
With the water, add 1 tablespoon sugar. After simmering the stew for 1 hour, add 1/3 cup yellow split peas and simmer for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat; add 2 large peeled, cored, and sliced quinces; and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add to the stew, cover, and cook for another 15 minutes.
Kibbeh
Kibbeh refers to a variety of highly-seasoned pounded meat and bulgur dishes. The most widespread form of kibbeh is a fried torpedo-shaped croquette encased in a thin starchy shell.
Origin: Near East
Other names: Arabic: kibbe, kibbi; Iraq: kubba, kubbeh; Turkey: içli köfte.
Among the recipes in the Roman cookbook by Apicius (c. 400 CE) are stuffed ground meat patties, revealing that the concept of cooking small orbs of forcemeat goes back at least two millennia. Later, meatballs emerged as a prominent part of medieval Persian and Arabic cuisine. In the Near East, people began pounding pieces of lamb with bulgur to make a smooth mixture that they called kibbeh, from the Arabic "form into a ball."
In the Levant, kibbeh encompasses a variety of ground meat dishes, including basic free-form meatballs (also called aqras lahm and kefte); kibbeh nayeh (raw lamb or beef mixed with bulgur wheat); kibbeh bi seniyeh (the meat and bulgur mixture baked in a pan); shurbat al kibbeh (small meatballs cooked in a soup); and the most popular form, kibbeh mahshi, also called kibbeh nabelsieh and aqras kibbeh (stuffed torpedo-shaped meat in a thin starchy shell). The city of Aleppo claims sixty different variations of kibbeh.
Kibbeh nayeh is the national appetizer of Syria and Lebanon. The dish originated among medieval peasants as a way to stretch limited resources, but eventually became popular among all levels of society. The texture of the raw meat and bulgur is completely smooth; none of its ingredients are individually identifiable by taste or sight. Consequently, before the food processor, preparing kibbeh nayeh was a very time-consuming, strenuous process of repeatedly pounding the ingredients in a mortar. It is usually flavored with a little fresh mint or basil. Since kibbeh nayeh is eaten very fresh, it is a traditional dish only on Friday night or other celebrations, never for Sabbath lunch. It is served with fresh tomatoes, chilies, and scallions or onion wedges and frequently accompanied with arak (anise liqueur). Syrians also enjoy a vegetarian version (kibbeh nayeh w'khodrawat) made from red lentils, tomatoes, and bulgur.
Seniyeh, or siniyya, is a round, flat-bottomed, copper or brass Arabic tray, which was typically set on a low stool to act as a table. The tray was also occasionally spread with pounded meat and used for baking. Kibbeh bil seniyeh, also known as kefte bil seniyeh, in essence "baked kibbeh," developed as an easier way to prepare kibbeh without all the individual shaping and frying. Although it can be baked plain, the meat mixture is usually sandwiched between bulgur or mashed potatoes to make the Middle Eastern equivalent of shepherd's pie. Casseroles with a potato topping are common Mizrachi Passover dishes.
For millennia, the time before any special occasion in the Levant was preceded by the measured thumping of a pestle (madaqqa) repeatedly hitting a mortar (jurn), as the kibbeh ingredients were pounded into a smooth paste. Today, a fo
od processor makes the task immeasurably easier. In the Middle East, various forms of kibbeh became popular Sabbath and holiday dishes.
(See also Kebab, Kibbeh Mahshi, Kubbeh, and Kufta)
Kibbeh Mahshi
Kibbeh mahshi is a deep-fried torpedo-shaped ground meat croquette with a starchy outer shell (typically made of bulgur, semolina, or rice).
Origin: Levant
Other names: Azeri: kiufta; Egypt: kobeba, kubeba; India: kooba, kubba; Iraq: kubat halab, kubba, kubbeh; Israel: kubbeh; Lebanon: aqras kibbeh, kibbeh qrass; Syria: kibbeh nabilseeyah, kibbeh nabulsieh; Turkey: kofte; Yemen: kubi.
Encasing a filling in a thin shell and deep-frying it is an old Arabic culinary technique. The cookbook Kitab al-Tabikh (Baghdad, 1226) included a recipe for "Aqras Mukarrara," consisting of a ball of almond paste dipped into a thin batter and fried in sesame oil. Centuries later, the term aqras kibbeh was applied to a ball of spicy ground meat encased in a thin shell of semolina, bulgur, or rice, typically shaped into a torpedo, and either fried or grilled. If the torpedoes are fried in a skillet, they are called kibbeh bi ma'ala (in the frying pan); when grilled, they are kibbeh mashwiyya; and when deep-fried, they are kibbeh maqliyya. In Aleppo, these torpedoes were called kibbeh nabelsieh, from the town of Nablus. They are also widely known simply as kibbeh.
When deep-fried, these kibbeh develop a crispy, firm exterior and a moist, flavorful center. The shells and seasonings vary from place to place; bulgur is the most common casing in the Levant and semolina in Iraq. The bulgur casing is made with just the grain, resulting in a crunchier texture, or mashed with meat in the manner of kibbeh nayeh (raw kibbeh). There is even a Passover version using matza meal. Lamb, from the leg or shoulder, is the preferred meat. Toasted pine nuts, chopped walnuts, chopped pistachio nuts, or pomegranate seeds are frequently mixed in with the meat. The spice blend varies from place to place: Syrians generally add allspice, cinnamon, cumin, and black pepper, while Lebanese favor sumac, nutmeg, and pomegranate molasses. The presence of tamarind paste in the filling is characteristic of Jewish kibbeh. Lebanese near the coast and Iraqis make a fish adaptation (samakeyah) and there are even vegetarian versions filled with mashed potatoes or lentils.