Encyclopedia of Jewish Food

by Gil Marks

  Schnecken arrived in America with German immigrants. As with many German baked goods, they first became popular in Pennsylvania, which was once the site of the country's largest German community. Shortly before the Civil War, these rolls began appearing in bakeries in other areas with large German and German Jewish populations, most notably New York, Chicago, and Cincinnati. This European treat, however, did not remain restricted to Germans for long. By 1886, it could already be found in the Kansas Home Cookbook, an early fund-raising work, in which it was called "Snail's House Cake." Among American Jews from Germany, schnecken became a beloved Sabbath morning treat. Some people, particularly in Baltimore, mistakenly call rolled crescents made from a sour cream dough, which are akin to kipfel and rugelach, by the name schnecken, but real schnecken is a spiral roll.

  By the end of the nineteenth century, the name schnecken had transitioned into "cinnamon rolls" and "sticky buns." In the first edition of The Settlement Cook Book (Milwaukee, 1901), by an author from a German Jewish background, the pastry was entitled "Cinnamon Rolls or Schnecken," while in later editions the name was trimmed to just "Cinnamon Rolls." The book's instructions, which included baking the pastries close together in a large pan, are akin to directions for modern cinnamon buns.

  The schnecken came to America with German immigrants, and served as the inspiration for the widely popular cinnamon roll. The poppy seed variation, however, failed to make a similar impact.

  Subsequently, schnecken could be found in almost every cookbook from American Jewish sisterhoods and women's organizations. The Neighborhood Cook Book by the Council of Jewish Women (Portland, Oregon, 1912) included a recipe in which raisins, nuts, and a gooey topping were added, and the rolls were baked individually in a gem pan, the forerunner of the muffin pan.

  Following World War II, the appearance of tubes of frozen ready-to-bake cinnamon rolls in supermarkets further spurred the popularity of these pastries in mainstream America. As with many other European imports, the American version grew into monstrous, excessively sweet proportions. In the late twentieth century, cinnamon rolls became one of America's favorite treats, with some chain stores focusing exclusively on this delectable, slightly gooey kuchen. Whatever the size or, for that matter, time of the day, few foods are as satisfying or tasty as these small (or massive) coffee cakes.

  German Cinnamon Rolls (Schnecken)

  about 36 small pastries

  [DAIRY]

  Dough:

  1 package (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast or 1 (0.6-ounce) cake fresh yeast

  ¼ cup warm water (105°F to 115°F for dry yeast; 80°F to 85°F for fresh yeast)

  ¼ cup sugar

  1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

  3 large egg yolks or 2 large eggs

  1 cup sour cream or plain yogurt

  ¼ cup milk

  ½ teaspoon vanilla extract or ¼ teaspoon lemon extract

  ½ teaspoon table salt or 1 teaspoon kosher salt

  About 4 cups (20 ounces) bread or unbleached all-purpose flour

  1 cup granulated or brown sugar, or ½ cup each

  1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

  ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

  1 cup dried currants or chopped raisins

  1 cup chopped pecans or walnuts (optional)

  1. To make the dough: Dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Stir in 1 teaspoon sugar and let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, beat the butter until light and fluffy. Gradually beat in the remaining sugar. Beat in the egg yolks, one at a time. Blend in the yeast mixture, sour cream, milk, vanilla, salt, and 1½ cups flour. Gradually add enough of the remaining flour to make a smooth, very soft dough. Place in an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and let stand in a warm, draft-free place for 30 minutes, then refrigerate overnight or up to 3 days.

  2. Line a baking sheet or 2 large baking pans with parchment paper or lightly grease the sheet or pans. Punch down the dough. Fold over and press together several times. Divide in half; let stand for 15 minutes.

  3. Combine the sugar and cinnamon. Roll out each dough piece into a ¼-inch-thick rectangle, about 9 by 5 inches. Brush with the melted butter and sprinkle with the cinnamon-sugar, raisins, and, if using, nuts, leaving a ½-inch border. Starting from a long side, roll up jelly-roll style. Using a sharp knife or dental floss, cut into ½-inch-thick slices.

  4. Place the slices, cut side down, on the prepared baking sheet. Cover and let rise until nearly doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

  5. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

  6. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Transfer the schnecken to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

  Schnitzel

  Schnitzel is a slice of meat or poultry coated with breading and pan-fried.

  Origin: Austria

  Other names: Czech Republic: rizek; Hungary: becsi szelet, ranthotus; Slovakia: rezen.

  A coating not only protects food from the intense heat of frying, but also provides an interesting contrast in texture and flavor. The technique of coating slices of meat in bread crumbs before frying may have originated around the ninth century in the Byzantine Empire, where it was discovered by Arabs, who had transported it across North Africa to Spain by at least the thirteenth century. Sephardim use similar methods in one of their most famous dishes, peshkado frito (pan-fried fish fillets). Perhaps Sephardim brought the concept to Italy in the sixteenth century after the expulsion from Spain. In Milan, around that time, it was adapted specifically for veal, creating the classic cotoletta alla Milanese, consisting of pounded bone-in veal chops dipped into beaten eggs, then dredged in bread crumbs and fried.

  In 1706, the French yielded their possessions in northern Italy, including Lombardy and its capital, Milan, to the Habsburgs of Austria, and the region finally gained independence from the Austrian Empire only in 1859. During this period, the Austrian court brought the best cooks from all parts of its domains to the capital, and pan-fried breaded meat thus traveled the two hundred miles from Milan to Vienna. There cotoletta alla Milanese was transformed by removing the bone from the chops, and dredging the meat first in flour before dipping it into the eggs and finally bread crumbs (semmelbrösel), and the dish was renamed schnitzel (German meaning "little cut/cutlet"). A related word is schnitz, meaning "dried apple slices," which are used in certain Central European pastries. Schnitzel soon became widespread in Germany as well.

  The most famous of all schnitzels is Wiener schnitzel; the term first appeared in Austrian cookbooks around 1880, and the dish is named for the city of Vienna, which is spelled Wien in German. Genuine Weiner schnitzel is made from veal (kalb), usually from the leg or shoulder. Without a prefix, the word schnitzel in Europe denotes a dish that consists solely of veal and is prepared in the classic manner. However, any boneless meat can be breaded and fried as a schnitzel. Austrians refer to poultry schnitzel as hausmeisterschnitzel (poor man's schnitzel), and a variation in which flour is used for both the first dredging and a second coating (instead of the bread crumbs usually used for the second coating), as Pariser schnitzel (Parisian schnitzel). Holsteiner schnitzel is Wiener schnitzel topped with a sunny-side-up fried egg. An American variation is chicken-fried steak; the term was first recorded in 1949, and despite its name, the dish consists of beef slices fried like schnitzel.

  Whatever meat is used, the cutlet is pounded to an even thickness, which slightly tenderizes the meat and, more importantly, allows it to cook evenly. The size of a schnitzel ranges from cutlets the size of a hand to slices that drape over the sides of a large plate. Although European schnitzel is generally fried in clarified butter or lard, in kosher versions schmaltz or oil is substituted. Schnitzel should never be soggy on the outside or dry inside. The meat should be supple and succulent, in contrast to the taste and texture of the thin, crisp, and fluffy breading. Austrians never serve schnitzel with a sauce, which would soften its crispy coating. Many central Europeans
began spritzing schnitzel with lemon juice to hide the taste of meat that had spoiled (a common occurrence in the time before refrigeration) and the practice endures—the dish is typically served with lemon wedges to be squeezed over the top. Schnitzel is commonly accompanied with potatoes (fried, roasted, or salad) and cucumber or beet salad.

  By the beginning of the twentieth century, central Europeans had brought the concept of schnitzel to Israel, where the kibbutzim and moshavim generally raised turkeys and chicken instead of cattle, and Israelis substituted these for veal. Schnitzel was particularly important in a country where few people possessed an oven in their home, as thin cutlets could be easily fried over a flame. Another advantage was that schnitzel fried in oil could be served cold or reheated. For the decade following the establishment of the state of Israel in 1948, the government out of necessity imposed a period of national rationing of many basic food items, known as the tzena (austerity). The new Ministry of Absorption taught the diverse housewives from across the globe how to prepare various simple recipes made from readily accessible, inexpensive items; these dishes included chicken and turkey schnitzel, sometimes called k'tita (pounding) but more commobly referred to simply as schnitzel.

  Schnitzel, not falafel, became to Israelis of all ethnic backgrounds what hamburgers, fried chicken, and pizza are to Americans—it is featured in many restaurants, both fast-food and upscale, as well as offered at home, for either dinner or lunch, both on the Sabbath and during the week. Schnitzel is a common sight at life-cycle events in Israel featuring a meat meal, even some weddings. On Purim, some people add poppy seeds to the breading, while sesame seeds are sometimes mixed in on other occasions. On Passover, matza meal is substituted for the flour and bread crumbs. Leftovers are slipped into a pita along with hummus or ketchup for a favorite sandwich, both as a meal and a popular snack. Israeli food companies even produce commercial vegetarian versions. The Israeli innovation of turkey schnitzel eventually made its way to Austria and became common in the homeland of the schnitzel.

  Israeli Breaded Chicken Cutlets (Schnitzel)

  8 servings

  [MEAT]

  8 (5- to 6-ounces each) chicken or turkey cutlets

  About 1½ cups fine dry bread crumbs or matza meal

  About 1 teaspoon salt

  About ¾ teaspoon ground black pepper

  1 teaspoon paprika (optional)

  About ½ cup all-purpose flour or matza cake meal

  3 large eggs, lightly beaten

  Vegetable oil or schmaltz for frying

  Lemon wedges for garnish

  1. Rinse the cutlets and pat dry. Using a meat mallet or the bottom of a heavy skillet, pound the chicken between two pieces of plastic wrap to an even ¼-inch thickness. Combine the bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and, if using, paprika and place in a shallow dish or plastic bag. Place the flour in a second shallow dish or plastic bag and the eggs in another shallow dish.

  2. In a large, heavy skillet, heat 1/8 inch oil over medium heat to about 355°F. In batches, dredge the cutlets lightly in the flour, shaking to remove the excess. Using one hand or tongs, dip the cutlets in the eggs, then into the bread crumbs to cover.

  3. In batches, add the schnitzel to the pan (do not overcrowd) and fry, carefully moving the skillet back and forth to splash oil over the top, until golden brown on the bottom, about 3 to 4 minutes. Turn and fry until browned but not burnt, about 2 to 3 minutes depending on the thickness. The cutlets are done when they fill springy when touched lightly and the insides are no longer pink. Remove the cutlets and add more oil before frying the next batch. Drain on a wire rack. Serve with the lemon wedges.

  S'chug

  S'chug is a paste made from green chilies and cilantro.

  Origin: Yemen

  Other names: charief, s'hug, skhug, z'chug.

  Yemenite cuisine is fiery and zesty, dominated by chilies, cumin, and cilantro. Yemenites contend that the fire in their dishes helps to cleanse the body, and it is difficult to argue with the results of their diet because Yemenites are usually free of the afflictions of Western society, such as high blood pressure, high cholesterol levels, and diabetes. The predominant Yemenite condiment is s'chug, an herbal, green chili paste with hints of black pepper and other spices. It originated around the seventeenth century, after the arrival of the American chili pepper, as a way of combining several local seasonings that were already being used in most dishes. S'chug eventually emerged as an all-purpose relish, topping, and hot sauce.

  The name s'chug comes from the Arabic skhuk (pounded/ground), a cognate of the Hebrew shachak (to pound/to beat into powder). Traditionally, the chilies, cilantro, garlic, and spices are pounded, each separately, in a mortar or on a flat stone, then mixed together. Experienced Yemenite cooks can crush the ingredients in a few minutes, producing the exact desired texture and consistency. Today, a blender makes the process easier.

  There are no strict rules for making s'chug. However, it should be a relatively thick and slightly rough paste, not a puree or a watery mixture. In Yemen, cooks tended to use a combination of the small fiery and larger sweeter Indian varieties of chilies, but in Israel many cooks adopted the larger North African types and the Mexican jalapeño or serrano. When red chilies are used, rendering fruity undertones, the red paste is called shatta.

  Cumin and black pepper are the most commonly added spices, but other ones, particularly those typical of the Yemenite spice mixture hawaij, notably cardamom, cloves, and turmeric, are used or substituted. Many Yemenites insist on grinding the spices just before using or simply stir in a little of the hawaij at hand. S'chug is sometimes served with rotav aghtaniyot (crushed tomatoes) or diluted with a little hilbeh (fenugreek relish) or tahini (sesame seed paste) to soften the potency. At dairy meals, yogurt is commonly kept nearby to help douse the heat.

  Yemenites use s'chug as a condiment, especially with chicken, meats, rice, lahuh (pancake bread), melaweh (flatbread), and jachnun (flaky rolls), and add a little or a lot to hummus, stews, salads, and sauces. S'chug appears on a Yemenite dining table for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It is not atypical for some Yemenites to carry a small jar of s'chug with them to add to food eaten outside their homes.

  In the early twentieth century, Yemenites were the primary proprietors of falafel stands in Israel, where they offered their favored s'chug as one of the condiments and, consequently, today it remains a common and fiery addition to Israeli falafel and shawarma. In particular, during the period of rationing in the 1950s, s'chug was among the few available seasonings to brighten the rather bland cuisine; thus s'chug, or charief (fiery), the Hebrew name by which it is generally known, became one of Israel's national condiments. In Israel, s'chug can be commonly purchased in groceries, although some insist on making it fresh at home. More recently, companies in the United States selling Israeli salads have also begun offering s'chug, both green and red.

  Yemenite Chili Paste (S'Chug)

  about 2 cups

  [PAREVE]

  9 ounces green chilies, any combination jalapeño, serrano, and milder New Mexico chiles, stemmed and cut into thirds

  1 to 1½ cups chopped fresh cilantro, or ¾ cup cilantro and ¾ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

  4 to 5 cloves garlic, crushed

  1 teaspoon ground cumin

  3 to 5 green cardamom pods, ¼ to ¾ teaspoon ground cardamom, or 3 whole cloves, ground (optional)

  1 to 2 teaspoons ground black pepper

  About 1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt

  About 2 tablespoons olive oil

  Using a mortar and pestle, puree all the ingredients separately, then mix to produce a paste. Or using a blender, gradually grind the chilies, beginning with a few and gradually adding the rest until ground. In 3 or 4 additions, add the cilantro and grind, then add the garlic and process until ground. Add the cardamom, turmeric, pepper, salt, and olive oil and process until mixed. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

  Sebi
t

  The Sabbath to a Syrian family revolves around the keneese ("synagogue") and the dining table. To mark special events, such as birthdays and anniversaries, Syrians host a festive buffet lunch following Sabbath morning services called sebit or sabt (Arabic meaning "Saturday"). The buffet is held either at home, if the house is large enough to accommodate all the guests, or in the synagogue or a catering hall. A sebit always features plenty of food, both hot and cold. While the Sephardic desayunos (brunches) are always dairy, sebits tend to feature meat dishes, although some Syrians make vegetarian substitutes of favorites such as kibbeh nabelsieh (fried ground meat torpedoes) and miniature lahamagine (meat pizzas) for dairy occasions.

  Seder

  According to the Bible, the first night of Passover, the fifteenth of the month of Nisan, is a "lail sheemurim [night of vigil/protection] for all generations." It is a night established for the redemption from Egypt and subsequently sanctified by future generations through the Seder, a series of rituals centering around a meal. The word seder, found in the Bible only in the Book of Job, is actually Aramaic in origin, the equivalent of the Hebrew arukh (to arrange/to order). By the time of the Mishnah, the term had become widely used among Jews—not in reference to Passover, but to fast days, benedictions, the daily offering in the Temple, and the sounding of the shofar. The same word also gave rise in the early medieval period to the siddur, the Jewish prayer book. During the Geonic period (the time from about 700 to 1000 CE when the geonim, the heads of two major Talmudic academies in Babylonia, served as the principal authorities of Jewish law and tradition), the term Seder took on its current usage, denoting an order of ritual on the first night of Passover. Many of these rituals involve food.