by Mike Ashley
Carwinley. The site of the battle of Arderydd or Arthuret, between Gwenddoleu and his kinsmen Peredur and Gwrgi in 573. Gwenddoleu was killed, and his bard Myrddin lost his wits and ran into the nearby Forest of Celidon. The site is virtually on the Scottish-English border on the banks of the River Esk and Liddel Water between the farms Lowmoat and Highmoat, less than a kilometre north-west of Carwinley (a corruption of Caer Gwenddoleu), north of Longtown.
Outhgill. 12km south of Kirkby Stephen stand the ruins of Pendragon Castle, built in the twelfth century by Hugh de Morville, one of the knights who murdered Thomas à Becket. This was at the height of the first wave of Arthur mania, and de Morville doubtless gave the castle its name out of self grandeur, suggesting it was the castle of Uther Pendragon. There was a local legend that Uther had attempted to alter the course of the River Eden that runs by the castle, but to no avail. There is no evidence of any previous occupation of the site in this lonely stretch of Mallerstang Common, but the name had its effect because Malory incorporated a reference to the Castle in Morte Darthur, making it the home of the renegade knight Sir Brian of the Isles whom Lancelot had ousted from Dolorous Garde and had to oust again for his vile deeds, giving the castle to Sir Brunor the Black. The castle is privately owned and not open to the public.
Penrith. The churchyard of St Andrew’s contains the Giant’s Grave, once believed to be the grave of Urien’s son Owein. In fact the grave, which is actually two graves together, dates from the tenth century. Just south of Penrith at Eamont Bridge is an earthwork known as King Arthur’s Round Table. It dates back at least to the Bronze Age and may once have been the site of a henge, though there is another henge close by at Mayburgh. With a circumference of almost 200m, it could accommodate at least 200 people and might at some stage have been used as a site of council, perhaps by Urien in whose kingdom it was. Just over a km to the east is the site of Giant’s Cave by Brougham Castle. Here Lancelot is supposed to have slain the giant Tarquin who, with his brother Isir, was a cannibal. This is the site of the Roman fort Brocavum, one of the later fortifications which was in use from the second to the fourth century and could have been visited by Lucius Artorius Castus.
Derbyshire
Castleton. Here is Peveril Castle high up on the peak overlooking the town, a possible site for Lancelot’s Dolorous Garde. It was established by William Peverel soon after the Norman Conquest and Henry II visited it in 1157. It was later in the care of Brian de Lisle, Constable of the Peak, who did not want to give it up after King John’s death, and had to be taken by force by William de Ferrers, Earl of Derby. This episode may be replicated in the Vulgate Cycle by Lancelot’s capture of the castle from Brandin of the Isles.
Devon
Lundy. The Isle of Lundy off the North Devon coast is associated with Annwn and Avalon. There has been evidence of occupation on the island since Neolithic times, but no direct links to Arthurian events.
Dorset
Badbury Rings. An Iron Age hill fort suggested as a possible site for Arthur’s battle of Badon Hill. Its location, though, does not support this and there is a lack of any significant archaeological evidence.
Woolland, near Ilchester. Here at Bulberrow Hill are two rivers, the Divelish and Devil’s Brook, that may equate to the site of Arthur’s battles on the River Dubglas.
Durham
Binchester. The old Roman fort of Vinovium may be the site of Arthur’s eighth battle at Fort Guinnion.
Gloucestershire
Forest of Dean. The main forest of southern Gwent and Ergyng, which may have been the British counterpart of the French Briosque and Broceliande. The name is derived from the Saxon word for “valley”, denu, but there might be an earlier association if Lydney was Avalon (see below). The Forest of Briosque was owned by Dyonas, father of the Lady of the Lake, and may have been known to the British as the Forest of Dyonas.
Gloucester. Vortigern’s family came from Gloucester. His grandfather Vitalinus is specially referred to as “of Gloucester” whilst his father was a high official in the town. Ambrosius the Elder may also have been an official. It remained inhabited throughout the fifth century and presumably into the sixth, as Conmail is referred to as a king of Gloucester when he was defeated at Dyrham in 577. Gloucester was where Mabon the Hunter was imprisoned and had to be rescued by Arthur in the story of Culhwch and Olwen.
Lydney. Between Chepstow and Gloucester, this was the site of a major healing sanctuary dedicated to the Romano-British god Nodens. It was built around the middle of the third century and remained in use into the early fourth century. Although of pagan origin, it may have continued to provide healing facilities to Christians. Although it no longer appears to be a physical island, as the name shows (Lydney, Lida’s Island) it was once isolated by two streams, and would have been seen as an island haven in the woods tucked away from the real world (Nodens was also a god of the woods). Lydney could be the original Avalon. The Lydney complex was originally surrounded by lakes, and would be the obvious sanctuary for the Lady of the Lake. At Lydney hundreds of copper bracelets were found, which have long been associated with healing, and this may have been the basis of the ring that the Lady of the Lake gave to Lancelot.
Hampshire
Basing. Old Basing, south of Basingstoke, has been suggested as a possible site for Bassas, Arthur’s sixth battle.
Charford. The favoured site for where Cerdic settled and fought his first battles, probably in the 530s and therefore after the Arthurian period.
Portchester. One of the suggested sites for Llongborth. However, see Llamporth in Dyfed.
Silchester. Between Reading and Basingstoke, this was the Roman town of Calleva Atrebatum. Although any Roman influence had ceased by the early fifth century, a Romano-British occupation seems to have continued right through the fifth and sixth centuries until a simple transition to Anglo-British occupation by the early seventh century. Somehow, perhaps because of a series of defensive ditches such as Grim’s Dyke, Silchester managed to remain independent. The Saxon infiltration was minor and the town was eventually abandoned. It remains today the best preserved shell of all Roman towns. Intriguingly, Geoffrey of Monmouth has Arthur crowned here. This may be because there was some vague tradition of its British independence in the sixth century but I suspect it’s more a case of language confusion. The old Welsh tales give Arthur’s capital at Celliwig and Celli means a grove in a wood. The original Roman name Calleva meant “town in the woods”, and it is believed that the prefix for Silchester came from the British adaptation to Calle-cestre. Curiously, although it is recorded as Silcestre in the Domesday Book (probably under Norman influence), by the next century it was back to Cilcestre. Geoffrey may have genuinely believed that Silchester was the old Celliwig.
Winchester. The Roman town of Venta Belgarum was the capital of the Belgae tribe and later became the capital of Wessex. Although there is evidence of continued Romano-British occupation in the early fifth century, it did not really re-emerge until the West Saxon king Cynegils established a new diocese here in 634 under Bishop Birinus. If it was occupied at all during the Arthurian period it was on a negligible scale. However, Malory chose to make Winchester the site for Camelot since it was here that Arthur’s Round Table was displayed in the Great Hall. The Table is still on display.
Hereford & Worcester
Archenfield, see Ergyng.
Arthur’s Cave, see Ganarew.
Dorstone. Between Dorstone and Bredwardine at the head of the Golden Valley is the impressive burial chamber called Arthur’s Stone. The name really applies to the massive capstone. Although this area has many associations with Arthur the name is relatively recent; when it was first described in an antiquarian’s report in 1728 it was called Artil’s Stone. It is another Neolithic site dating back to at least 3500BC. The site is so significant, though, as a local landmark that it is tempting to think that in Arthur’s day it could have been known as Arthur’s stone to identify a meeting place.
Ergyng.
This was one of the minor Welsh kingdoms that adjoined Gwent, and at times formed part of that kingdom. It was also in the front line of the Saxon and Angle advance across Britain, and much of what was Ergyng now falls into England in Hereford & Worcester (as Archenfield). Ergyng may well have formed a sub-kingdom of Gwent ruled by the heirs to Gwent and it has been suggested that Athrwys ap Meurig ruled as prince of Ergyng though he died too young to inherit Gwent. Caradog Vreichfras is also identified as a king or prince of Ergyng. Arthur’s pursuit of the boar Twrch Trwyth took him through this part of Ergyng where the Dulas Brook, at Ewyas Harold, may be one of the sites for Arthur’s second-to-fifth battles. 10km east of Ewyas Harold, at the delightfully named Wormelow Tump, is Gamber Head, which is the start of the River Gamber fed by the spring known once as Llygad Amr. This is where, according to Nennius, Arthur killed and buried his son Amr. There’s no barrow visible today.
Ganarew. On the bend in the river near Symonds Yat is the hill fort of Little Doward which is where, according to Geoffrey of Monmouth, Vortigern was besieged and his fort burned down by Ambrosius. Below the hill near the river is King Arthur’s Cave, though no one knows what the connection is.
Leintwardine. The Roman town here was Bravonium or Branogenium, and this might have corrupted into Breguein or Breguoin, the name of Arthur’s eleventh battle. It probably also corrupted into Brandigan, the castle of King Evrian in Erec et Enide, a name that survives in Brandon Camp, a hill-fort to the south. See also Knucklas (Powys). The Clun Forest, north-west of the town, is a suggested site for the battle of Coed Celidon.
Hertfordshire
St. Albans. The Roman town of Verulamium was one of the first Christian towns in Britain. It remained occupied and functional as a British town throughout the fifth century and probably into the sixth. Germanus visited it in 429 and perhaps 436, and it must at some stage have been visited by Vortigern and Ambrosius. According to Geoffrey of Monmouth, the Saxons besieged it during Uther’s reign. There are no direct Arthurian connections but as one of the major frontier towns during the Saxon settlement there may have been a confrontation here at some time.
Kent
Barham Down, south of Canterbury. According to Malory this was the site of a battle between Mordred and Arthur following Arthur’s advance from Dover. There may have been a battle here between the British and the Saxons/Jutes in the early days of their settlement but that would be pre-Arthur, possibly part of Ambrosius’s campaign. Malory may have tapped into a local tradition recalling that Barham was the site of the first battle between the Britons and the Romans under Julius Caesar in 54BC. The connection with Arthur may be because the name Barham derives from the Saxon Bioraham and Beora is the Saxon for “bear”.
Dover. In Malory’s Morte Darthur, Arthur fights Mordred here upon his return to Britain. Gawain, already wounded from an earlier battle with Lancelot, dies in the fighting and is buried in the Chapel of Dover Castle. Caxton refers to Gawain’s skull being visible at Dover. This is all legend and has no basis in history. For another burial site for Gawain, see Bosherston in Dyfed.
Lancashire
Lancaster. Here, the estuary of the River Lune has been suggested as a possible site for Arthur’s first battle.
Preston. The River Douglas joins the Ribble here and may be the site of Arthur’s battles on the Dubglas. It is also a suggested site for the battle of Tribruit. East of Preston at Ribchester is the Roman fort of Bremetennacum, which was the main command of Lucius Artorius Castus. The name might also corrupt into Breguoin, the site of Arthur’s eleventh battle.
Lincolnshire
Lindsey. This area, once known as Linnuis, is usually cited as the most likely for Arthur’s four battles at the River Dubglas, even though there is no local river by that name. It was a locale settled early by the Angles and is referred to by Geoffrey of Monmouth in relation to Hengist. As discussed in Chapter 6, this area is more likely as the site of the earlier battles in Vortimer’s or Ambrosius’s campaign. See also Brigg.
Spalding. Near here the River Glen joins the River Welland and it is a suggested site for Arthur’s first battle.
London
Although Malory places the episode of Arthur withdrawing the sword from the stone in London (probably at St. Paul’s), and also has Guenevere seek refuge in the Tower of London (five hundred years before it was built), there are no historical sites in London with direct Arthurian connections.
Northumberland
Alnwick. Suggested by Malory as a possible site for Lancelot’s castle Joyous Garde. See also Bamburgh.
Bamburgh. An impressive castle dominates the skyline here now and even without that it must have been an impressive site in Arthur’s day. It was then known as Din Guayrdi and was probably the capital of the Southern Votadini. Malory suggested it as a possible site for Lancelot’s Castle Joyous Garde. It was here that Ida established his capital in 547 or so. The area is associated with many battles between the British and Angles, some of which may have later become associated with Arthur’s campaign. It was here that Urien was murdered during the siege of Lindisfarne in c590. Its present name is supposed to be derived from Bebba, the Pictish wife of Athelfrith, adopted soon after the defeat of the British at Catraeth.
Corbridge. At Dilston the Devil’s Water may be one of the sites of Arthur’s battles along the Dubglas.
Doddington. Near here the River Glen meets the River Till near Yeavering Bell. It has been suggested as a site for Arthur’s first battle.
High Rochester. The old Roman fort of Bremenium, in British Berwyn, is one of the suggested sites for Arthur’s eleventh battle at Bregouin. The seventh battle in the Forest of Celidon might also have been within this vicinity.
Oxfordshire
Dorchester. A possible site for the Golden Isle in Renaud’s story Le Bel Inconnu and a possible site for Arthur’s Round Table as described by Bèroul in his story of Tristan, which sets Arthur’s court at Sinadon. The Sinodun Hills, also known as Wittenham Clumps, are to the south of Dorchester.
Faringdon. Badbury Hill is a suggested site for Arthur’s battle of Badon Hill.
Wootton. Near here the River Glyme joins the Dorn, a suggested site for Arthur’s first battle.
Shropshire
Baschurch. Suggested as a possible site for Bassas, Arthur’s sixth battle.
Clun. The Clun Forest is a suggested location for Arthur’s seventh battle at the Forest of Celidon. It may also be related to his first battle on the River Glein.
Wroxeter. The site of the Roman fort at Viriconium, within site of the massive hill-fort of the Wrekin. Viriconium remained occupied well into the fifth century and even had improvements made and encouraged visitors. It may well have been the capital of Vortigern and Ambrosius, and even of Arthur, making it a possible site for Camelot. It has been suggested that Badon may have been fought here, at the Wrekin.
Somerset
Arthur’s Bridge. Bridge over the river Alham near Ditcheat. It may be associated with Arthur’s Lane, see Cadbury Castle.
Bath. One of the major towns of Roman Britain, Aquae Sulis, and the site suggested by Geoffrey of Monmouth (and perhaps Nennius) as the location for the siege of Mons Badonicus, which might have taken place on the surrounding hills at Bathampton Down or Solsbury Hill (see Chapter 7). Chrétien de Troyes, who had probably never been to Britain, refers to Bath/Bade as one of the cities of King Bagdemagus, see Gorre.
Brent Knoll, near Burnham-on-Sea. An imposing Iron Age hill-fort where the Romans also built a temple. William of Malmesbury tells a legend that the hill, then called the Mount of Frogs, was the home of three giants. Arthur set out to fight them but Yder went on ahead. By the time Arthur arrived Yder had killed the giants but had himself collapsed. The locality is also known as Battleborough, apparently after a battle between Alfred the Great and the Danes in 875, but it has been suggested that this could have been the site of one of Arthur’s twelve battles, possibly Bregwyn.
Bristol. The suburb of Catbrain near Filton
Airport has been suggested as being originally Cat-bregyon, which might be the same as Arthur’s eleventh battle at Breguoin.
Cadbury Castle, a massive Iron Age hill fort at South Cadbury, which has been linked with Camelot ever since John Leland identified it in 1542, when he referred to it as “Camallate”. The connection may have been derived from the nearby villages of Queen Camel and West Camel, which were known simply as Camelle in the Domesday Book and a century earlier as Cantmael. It is uncertain how long the locals had associated it with Arthur and Camelot but within the vicinity as you climb the hill are Arthur’s Well and the crest is called Arthur’s Palace. There are traces of an old track running from the hill towards Glastonbury, called Arthur’s Lane.
A series of excavations, especially those under the direction of Leslie Alcock from 1966 to 1970 (one of the most thorough archaeological undertakings at any suspected Arthurian site), showed several periods of occupation stretching from around 3000BC to about 1000AD, with at least twelve distinguishable “settlements”. The one during the Arthurian period was dubbed “Cadbury 11”. It began in around 470 when there was a significant refortification of the hill after a period of disuse. At the summit, which the locals called Arthur’s Palace, was found evidence of a timbered hall, measuring roughly 19m by 10m. The fortification of the hill was substantial and it was estimated that the site could house 1,000 warriors plus their families and workers.
The occupation at Cadbury lasted for at least two generations, to about 550, which is precisely the Arthurian period. The inevitable temptation is to suggest that the refortifications were instigated by Ambrosius and that the site continued to be occupied by Arthur. There is, alas, no direct evidence to support this, but it would be remarkable if Ambrosius were not connected, since we know from Gildas that his campaign started around the 460s/470s, and only a commander of some authority could have organised such a substantial fortification. There may be some clue in the name of Cadbury itself, as it means “Cada’s fort.” It is tempting to leap at Cada and imagine this may be Cador, Arthur’s elder half brother, who was called Duke of Cornwall. Cada is more likely to be a Saxon name, though it could have been an adoption of a long-substantiated British name. Alcock provides full details of his excavation in By South Cadbury is that Camelot (London, 1972) with an update in Economy, Society & Warfare Among the Britons and Saxons (Cardiff, 1987).