Ai Cafe Akiba Place (アイ・カフェ)
Huge choice of comics, drinks and ice cream. Also has free food! Rice bowls, toast and curry on the house. Note the cheapest prices are for cafeteria seats. Night pack (ナイトパック) available from 6pm: 6 hours (6時間ナイトパック) from 1060 yen, 9 hours (9時間ナイトパック) from 1660 yen • Head up Chuo Dori and take first left after Don Quijote • Google Maps
Shibuya
Head down Inokashira Dori, parallel to Center Gai for a good selection of net cafes:
Bagus (バグース)
Large choice of comics, clean showers and good selection of free drinks. Night pack (ナイトパック) available from 9pm: 6 hours (6時間ナイトパック) from 1150 yen. 9 hours (9時間ナイトパック) from 1800 yen • Google Maps
Manbo (マンボー)
Japan’s largest chain. Free showers, comics and drinks. Night pack (ナイトパック) available from 7pm: 6 hours (6時間ナイトパック) from 1300 yen • Google Maps
Media Cafe Popeye (メディアカフェポパイ)
Modern net cafe with free drinks, showers and printing services. Night pack (ナイトパック) available from 6pm: 6 hours (6時間ナイトパック) from 950 yen. 12 hours (12時間ナイトパック) from 1380 yen • Google Maps
Shinjuku
Manbo (マンボー)
This net cafe chain has several chains around the station, so if this branch is full, ask for the others. Free showers, comics and drinks. Night pack (ナイトパック) available from 7pm: 6 hours (6時間ナイトパック) from 1500 yen • Head down Yasukuni Dori, passing east side Yamada Denki LABI. Manbo is just after the Family Mart, on the right • Google Maps
Bagus (バグース)
Similar to Manbo, but generally quieter and with not so bright lights, so it’s easier to sleep. Also has a ladies-only section. Night pack (ナイトパック) available from 7pm: 6 hours (6時間ナイトパック) from 1150 yen. 9 hours (9時間ナイトパック) from 1430 yen • Next block on from above Manbo • Google Maps
Shinjuku (新宿)
Shinjuku Gyoen in autumn
A great place to start of your adventures in Japan, Shinjuku is the main business and entertainment district in Tokyo. While Shibuya is well and truly aimed at younger people, Shinjuku is a bit more sophisticated than its southern brother. It’s therefore a great place to introduce yourself to that Japanese mix of old and new.
A little bit of history
While many people have an image of Tokyo being completely full of skyscrapers, this is in fact not the case, with the city having several pockets of skyscraper districts. In 1923, when the Great Kanto earthquake obliterated most of Tokyo, west Shinjuku was left relatively unscathed due to its seismically stable location. It therefore developed as a business district, full of grand skyscrapers. In the following years, most of Tokyo was destroyed by air raids in World War Two, but the pre-war form of Shinjuku was retained to ease reconstruction, with the exception of Kabukicho. There are still therefore plenty of interesting narrow streets to explore, and a short walk will get visitors away from all the commercial activity.
Things to do
Shinjuku Gyoen Garden (新宿御苑)
Usually a must see for any visitor to Tokyo, Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden is a large, feature-full park next to Shinjuku station. The garden was previously the mansion grounds of the Naito family, feudal lords in the Edo period. Every visitor makes a trip here when coming to Shinjuku, but as this garden is so large and varied it never seems overcrowded. In addition to the traditional Japanese garden and small pavilion, there are French and English inspired gardens, a small forest with Japanese cedar trees and a brand new, ultra-modern greenhouse. Adults 200 yen, Children 50 yen • 9am-4pm • On Foot: From Shinjuku station, make your way to Bicqlo (ビックロ). Walk east (past Isetan Department Store), down Shinjuku Dori (street) until you get to Sekaido stationery shop (世界堂), then turn right and walk down for the entrance. By subway: Take the Metro Marunouchi Line from Shinjuku to Shinjuku-gyoen-mae (2 mins, 165 yen). By bus: Shinjuku Gyoen stop (WE Bus) • Google Maps
Tokyo Metropolitan Observation Decks (東京都庁)
The free Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office offers great views of the city during daytime and evening, plus on clear days you can even see Mount Fuji. You can also buy your name in Japanese characters in the gift shop at the top. Save on the cost of the expensive SkyTree and visit here instead! FREE • 9:30am-11pm (entry ends 30 minutes before closing) • On foot: Walk west for 10 minutes from Shinjuku station in the underground passageway to Tochomae station, then continue five minutes west. By subway: Take the Toei Oedo Line from Shinjuku station to Tochomae station (2 mins, 174 yen). By bus: Shinjuku Washington Hotel stop (WE Bus) • Google Maps
Hanazono Shrine (花園神社)
Lovely respite from the chaos of Shinjuku, a cool place to chill out and have a bento or snack. Hanazono is a Shinto shrine founded in the 17th century and is considered to be one of the most important in Tokyo by locals, which explains why it’s still there with all the huge concrete buildings around it. The shrine has become a favorite for local businessmen to pray for business success and prosperity. FREE • 24h • On foot: Walk down Shinjuku Dori, take a left after Isetan Department Store and walk down (total 15 mins). By subway: Shinjuku-Sanchome exit E2. By bus: Shinjuku Oiwake stop (WE Bus) • Google Maps
Kabukicho (歌舞伎町)
Tokyo’s, and Japan’s, most famous red light district. For budget travelers, it’s a fascinating walk around, taking in all the bright lights, watching the nightclub and bar hosts and hostesses getting up to their business. It’s generally recommended to stay away from bars and restaurants here, as prices are generally high and foreigners have been known to be overcharged. Just bring your camera after dark and take it all in. Just outside Shinjuku station, take the east exit and walk towards Seibu Shinjuku station, right next to Kabukicho • Google Maps
NTT InterCommunication Center (NTTインターコミュニケーション・センター)
Free media, art and communications gallery in Nishi-Shinjuku, the skyscraper district. NTT is Japan’s main telephone provider, and this museum was started to commemorate the 100th anniversary of telephones in Japan. The museum has an excellent selection of innovative, fun and thought-provoking art and multimedia pieces, and shows off some amazing new artists. FREE (extra for special exhibitions, which are FREE with Grutto Pass) • 11am-6pm • On foot: Near the Keio New Line station. Walk along the main road (Shinjuku dori) in the opposite direction of the bridge and Bus Terminal. By subway: From Shinjuku, take the Keio New Line to Hatsudai station (1 min, 124 yen). By bus: Shinjuku Washington Hotel stop (WE bus) • Google Maps
Volunteer guides and tours
The tourist information center in the Tokyo Metropolitan Building (see above) can organize free volunteer tours in English.
Getting around
Once you are at Shinjuku station, everywhere is within walking distance if you don’t mind walking for 5-15 minutes to get between tourist spots. The shops around the station are also close, taking only a few minutes between each one. There are two main streets, Shinjuku Dori to the south and Yasukuni Dori to the north.
Be warned! Shinjuku station is a complete maze and even for people that have worked there for years, it can be easy to get lost. Use the in-station signs to get to one of the above shops or tourist sites if you are completely lost, from where you can get your bearings.
Transportation passes and discounts
There is also a bus service called WE Bus (新宿WEバス) that takes riders around the main spots listed above, from 7am-6pm (100 yen each ride, 300 yen for day pass). Tickets and passes available on the bus, with the most useful route being the Shinjuku Gyoen + Nishi-Shinjuku Route. Starting at the Shinjuku Bus Terminal near Shinjuku station, south exit is recommended, to avoid traipsing around the huge station looking for the right bus stop.
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Budget food
Around the station (east side)
There are so many cheap restaurants around Shinjuku (usually with English menus), we would actually recommend strolling around this fascinating metropolis and seeing what takes your fancy. Here are some of the highlights if you are too hungry to walk around!
1) Senka Soba (千曲そば) - Various styles of simple soba and udon available, with simple traditional toppings such as tempura or egg. Soba from 250 yen • 24h • From the south-east exit, take the wide stairs down and walk ahead, it’s on the corner • Google Maps
2) Yoshinoya (吉野家) - Gyudon eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 330 yen • 24h • Next to Yamada Denki (LABI) on Yasukuni Dori • Google Maps
3) Hidakaya Ramen (日高屋) - Tokyo’s super cheap ramen chain. Fried rice and gyoza dumplings also available. Ramen from 390 yen • 24h • Opposite Seibu-Shinjuku station, or next to Yamada Denki (LABI) on Yasukuni Dori • Google Maps
Around the station (west side)
Hakone Soba Honjin (箱根そば本陣) - Classic train station soba, nice and simple. Other simple dishes like curry are also sometimes available. Soba from 290 yen • 6:30am-11pm • Near ticket gates for Odakyu trains on west side of station • Google Maps
4) Coco Ichiban Curry House (CoCo壱番屋) - The true taste of Japanese curry, and officially the largest curry restaurant chain in the world. Curry + rice from 500 yen • 24h • Just outside exit D3, from Shinjuku-Nishiguchi station on the Toei Oedo Line • Google Maps
5) Matsuya (松屋) - Gyudon and burger eat-in and takeaway. Gyudon bowls from 290 yen • 24h • Around the corner from the above Coco Ichiban • Google Maps
6) Ootoya (大戸屋) - Various Japanese set meals. Meals from 750 yen • 11am-midnight • Opposite from above Coco Ichiban restaurant • Google Maps
7) Oedo Sushi (回転寿司 大江戸) - Reliable conveyor belt sushi joint. Sushi plates from 140 yen • 11am-11pm • Next to the above Ootoya • Google Maps
North-west of the station
Take exit D5 of Shinjuku-Nishiguchi station, or walk from Shinjuku station. The following are in the order you’ll see them:
8) Mos Burger (モス) - Mid-range burger chain, for those that need a western food fix with some Japanese twists, like ‘rice burgers’. Burgers from 220 yen • 5am-2am • Google Maps
9) Sukiya (すき家) - Curry and gyudon eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 360 yen • 24h • Google Maps
10) Burger King (バーガーキング) - Cheaper burgers than Mos Burger, and a few odd Japan-only burgers. Occasionally has all-you-can eat whopper deals! Burgers from 150 yen • 7am-11pm • Google Maps
Shinjuku Dori (Street)
There are not so many budget options heading east down Shinjuku Dori from Shinjuku station, but it’s still a supremely cool street to check out.
11) Shakey's (シェーキーズ) - All-you-can-eat pizza restaurant, with Japanese and seasonal themed flavors. Expect to be surprised by this imaginative menu! Lunch time: adults 1160 yen, teens 880 yen, under junior high school age 500 yen. Dinner time: 1650 yen, 1000 yen, 500 yen • 11am-10:15pm • On right side, just before Isetan Department Store • Google Maps
12) Sweets Paradise (スイーツパラダイス) - Stuff yourself at this all-you-can-eat sweets and cakes buffet. Adults 1530 yen, children 860 yen • Look for the old Bic Camera building on your right as you exit from Shinjuku station, east exit. Sweets Paradise is just to the right, away from Shinjuku Dori • Google Maps • http://www.sweets-paradise.jp/guide/index_english.html
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
There are no cheap supermarkets in Shinjuku, but there are plenty of convenience stores around to buy some cheap noodles, sandwiches or the like.
Nightlife
Piss Alley / Omoide Yokocho (思い出横丁)
Super cramped bar and counter restaurant area, this place requires a photo or two for being such an authentic Japanese night out spot. Prices have been increased to catch out tourists at some bars, so be careful if you want to eat or drink here. Head out of Shinjuku west exit and then down to the right, or go out of exit D3 near Coco Ichiban restaurant. Bar area is around and behind here • Google Maps • http://www.shinjuku-omoide.com/english/
Golden Gai (新宿ゴールデン街)
A maze of more than 100 tiny bars to explore. Staff are often chatty and will offer great travel advice. Many of the bars have a cover charge, so look at the board outside or ask inside. Still really worth a walk around if you are not going in though, just to see how crammed in all the bars are. Head east down Yasukuni Dori until you get to Mister Donut on the left after five to 10 minutes. Walk down the spiraling path • Google Maps
Water bottle refill spots
The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office and Shinjuku Gyoen have water fountains, plus Isetan Department store has a water cup machine on the stairs up from the 1st floor.
Shopping
East side
Yamada Denki LABI
Modern electronics megastore, with tax-free and electronics for use abroad. 10am-11:30 pm • From Shinjuku station, east exit, head north along the tracks, it’s on the right on Yasukuni Dori • Google Maps
Don Quijote (ドン・キホーテ)
Chaotic megastore full of any item you could imagine, from cheap souvenirs to fancy dress costumes to travel goods. This store is maybe the premier ‘what the hell is going on?’ Don Quijote experience. Great prices and tax-free options available. 24h • Opposite Yamada Denki LABI on Yasukuni Dori • Google Maps
Bicqlo (ビックロ)
Bic Camera (huge electronics store with tax-free shopping) + Uniqlo (huge budget clothes store with tax-free shopping) = a budget traveler heaven! Also has GU, Uniqlo’s new budget shop brand. 10am-10pm • East down Shinjuku Dori, not far from station • Google Maps
Takashimaya (髙島屋)
While the prices might be out of your range in the main department store section, downstairs is where the real action is for budget travelers. The food court is an amazing window shopping spot, with constantly-changing shop fronts and inventive flavors to try out, with occasional free samples on offer. Tax-free shopping is available. 10am-8pm • Shinjuku station new southern exit, to south east of station • Google Maps
LAOX Duty Free (ラオックス)
Mainly aimed at Chinese and Korean tourists looking to buy tax-free bags, jewelry and perfume. Worth having a quick look inside to see if a bargain can be had. 9am-9pm • Across the road from Isetan • Google Maps
Tokyu Hands (東急ハンズ)
Tokyu Hands has everything from stationery to DIY goods to funny souvenirs and drinks. A bit more upmarket than Don Quijote, but prices can still be reasonable if doing tax-free shopping and looking out for special offers. 10am-9pm • Connected to Takashimaya • Google Maps
ABC Mart (ABCマート)
Cheap shoe shop chain, with everything from sneakers to business shoes. 11am-9pm • Down Shinjuku Dori, just before Bicqlo • Google Maps
West side
Yamada Denki LABI
Another branch of the electronics chain, with same features but rather quieter. 10:30am-10:30pm • Near Keio New Line station • Google Maps
Free sample hotspots
Isetan Department Store on Shinjuku Dori and the above Takashimaya have massive food courts in their basement floors. While the average item is quite pricey, there are plenty of free samples to be had, and it’s also a fascinating window shopping experience. Just keep an eye out and don’t make it look too obvious if you’re not going to buy anything!
100 yen shops
Silk (シルク) - Near Yodobashi Camera on the east side. 10am-11pm
Seria (セリア) - Inside Marui Annex on Shinjuku Dori. 11am-9pm
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
Matsumoto Kiyoshi (マツモトキヨシ) has a shop opposite Bicuro (9am-10:30pm), while on the west side the best is Daikoku Drug (�
�イコクドラッグ), near Yamada Denki (8am-midnight).
How to get there and away
Shinjuku is on the circular Yamanote Line, Toei Oedo Line, Metro Marunouchi Line or Metro Shinjuku Line. From Tokyo station, take the Chuo Line to Shinjuku station (14 mins, 190 yen). From Shibuya station, take the Saikyo Line to Shinjuku station (6 mins, 150 yen). Recommended rail passes: Tokyo Subway Ticket, Tokyo Metro 24-hour Ticket, Tokyo Metropolitan District Pass
Tourist information (観光案内所)
A large tourist information center is found on the 1st floor of the Tokyo Metropolitan Building. It has excellent, free maps for hiking (9:30am-6:30pm). Shinjuku Bus Terminal also has one (6:30am-11pm).
Shibuya (渋谷)
Outside Shibuya station, looking towards the pedestrian scramble
One of Tokyo’s most lively and colorful neighborhoods, Shibuya is most famous as a youth fashion hotspot and the busiest road crossing you will ever see. Originally the site of a castle belonging to the Shibuya clan, since the introduction of the Yamanote Line it has become one of the main clubbing, shopping and entertainment areas in Tokyo.
The station is a real maze, so use the locations on the map (e.g. Hachiko or Shibuya Hikarie) with the boards inside the station that direct visitors to the corresponding exits.
Things to do
Free activities near station
Shibuya pedestrian scramble (スクランブル交差点)
Every few minutes thousands of people walk over the world’s most famous road crossing. Make sure you bring a camera! Best spot is to head to the second floor of Starbucks. Hachiko exit • Google Maps
Hachiko statue (ハチ公)
The famous statue and meeting point in Shibuya. After his owner died, a dog called Hachiko came to the station every day to meet his owner. The dog became famous and this statue was made in dedication to him. A cute cat has also made the statue its home, so be sure to take a photo of Shibuya’s most iconic spot. Hachiko exit • Google Maps
Super Cheap Japan Page 4