Umeda (梅田)
Originally an agricultural area when one of the first stations in Kansai was built here, Umeda has grown to become the business and shopping center of northern Osaka city. These days it’s mainly expensive department stores, of which there are several dotted around Umeda and Osaka station. These all offer tax-free shopping options if that 8% off makes the products affordable for you, but apart from these stores there are a few free attractions to see if you are waiting for a train or have a bit of time to kill.
Things to do
Yawaragi-no-niwa Garden
Meaning “Peaceful Garden”, Yawaragi-no-niwa is a stylish open space with a traditional Japanese rock and moss garden, right up on the 10th floor! Above there are some nice benches and tables, so bring a few drinks in the evening and watch over the city from above. FREE • 7am-11pm • 10th and 11th floor of North Gate Building, connected to Osaka station • Google Maps
Tenku-no-noen Farm
A farm on top of a skyscraper? Yes, that’s right! This is a small rooftop farm, growing traditional vegetables from the local region, as well as herbs and fruits. There is even a tiny vineyard as well. Visitors can occasionally have a bit of fun helping out on the farm. FREE • 7am-9pm • Via the stairs from Yawaragi-no-niwa Garden • Google Maps
OPA (梅田ＯＰＡ店)
This shopping mall has a good selection of budget shops, such as ABC Mart for shoes, Daiso for 100 yen items and Thank You Mart for 390 yen goods. There is also a huge new Uniqlo and QU budget clothes store next door. Tax-free shopping available. 11am-9pm • Just east of Hankyu Umeda station (signs may point to ABC Mart) • Google Maps
Budget food
While there are no real budget supermarkets around, there are some small, if a little pricey, food stores and plenty of large convenience stores in the station complexes. Be sure to head underground, as many of them are down there. Note that restaurants in the department stores are very expensive, but it’s always worth checking out the food courts for any free samples to try out!
Head to Shin-Umeda Shokudogai, the underground mall near Subway Umeda station, and HEP FIVE department store, nearby on the east side, for budget options:
First Kitchen (ファーストキッチン) - Cheap soups, burgers and pasta. Pasta from 580 yen, burgers from 370 yen • 7am-11pm • HEP FIVE
Yoshinoya (吉野家) - Gyudon and curry. Bowls from 330 yen • 6am-11:30pm • Shin-Umeda Shokudogai
Sukiya (すき家) - Gyudon and curry. Bowls from 360 yen • 24h • Behind the OPA shopping mall
How to get there and away
The area can be reached via Osaka station if on a JR line, or Umeda station if using the subway, Hankyu or Hanshin lines. If on the subway Tanimachi Line, you can get off at Higashi-Osaka. Recommended rail passes: Enjoy Eco Card, Osaka Visitors’ Ticket, Osaka Amazing Pass
Tourist information (観光案内所)
The Hankyu Tourist Center is located in the Hankyu section of Umeda station (8am-5pm).
Around Kyoto and Osaka
Welcome to the west side. Kansai, the prefecture home to Kyoto and Osaka, has plenty of other great spots for budget travelers to explore. Highlights here are one of Japan’s top three shrines in Ise, the spectacular Buddhist mountain retreat of Koyasan and the ever popular Nara, known for its deer feeding and huge temples. There are a large number of discount transportation passes covering the whole region, as well as some for specific tourist spots.
Discount passes
There are four really great passes in Kansai, so have a read through the guides in this chapter to see where you want to visit, then choose a pass if it’s appropriate. Also consider the Kansai-Hiroshima Area Pass if you are visiting Hiroshima or Miyajima to the west as well.
JR Kansai Area Pass
Allows unlimited use of JR (national rail) trains, within the area stretching from Himeji in the west to Nara and Kyoto in the east. Use of Shinkansen is not permitted, but use of special rapid services, rapid services and local trains is. It covers all the cities in this chapter, with the exception of Koyasan (extra 830 yen from Hashimoto station in Wakayama) and Ise Grand Shrine (cheap buses from Kyoto and Osaka are available). The pass makes a lot of sense if you want to quickly travel to a new city every day. As an example, a one-way ticket from Himeji to Kyoto costs 2270 yen, meaning that visitors start to save money if they travel between quite distant cities each day. Otherwise, buying single tickets may actually be cheaper. Check your routes on Hyperdia to see if savings can be made. Only for those with tourist visas. Purchase online at http://www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/ticket/pass/kansai/, as prices increase slightly if purchasing in Japan. 1 day: Adults 2200 yen, children 1100 yen. 2 days: Adults 4300 yen, children 2150 yen. 3 days: Adults 5300 yen, children 2650 yen. 4 days: Adults 6300 yen, children 3150 yen.
JR Kansai Wide Area Pass
For those who want to travel even further and faster in Kansai, check out the five-day Kansai Wide Area Pass. This also allows the use of the Shinkansen and limited express trains, and the pass extends further west to Okayama and Kurashiki, plus to northern cities in Kansai. If you want to speed up your journeys with the Shinkansen, this pass really starts to pay for itself. For example, a one-way Shinkansen ticket from Okayama to Kyoto costs 7100 yen, which is only 1900 yen short of the price for this five day pass. Only for those with tourist visas. Also purchasable online at http://www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/ticket/pass/kansai_wide/, with slightly higher prices if buying in Japan. Adults 9000 yen, children 4500 yen
Kansai Thru Pass
Allows unlimited use of non-JR train lines, from private networks such as Kintetsu, Hankyu, Nankai and Keihan. It also allows use of local transportation, such as the subways in Osaka and Kobe. Passengers can use the pass from the west in Himeji, south to Koyasan, and to the east to Kyoto, Uji, Osaka and Nara. Ise Grand Shrine still requires a bus or train from Kyoto or Osaka. If you want to include Koyasan, this pass will probably be better than the JR ones, plus it can also be used on non-consecutive days. Travel times will be longer with the Kansai Thru Pass, but the prices are much cheaper than the JR passes. The pass also includes more than 350 discounts at various shops, restaurants and tourist spots in the pass area, so you can save even more. For those with tourist visas only. Purchase at a ticket office of one of the train networks on the pass. 2 days: Adults 2000 yen, children 2000 yen. 3 days: Adults 5200 yen, children 2600 yen
Kintetsu Rail Pass
Unlimited use of the Kintetsu Railway network for five days, which connects Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, Ise and Nagoya. A ‘Plus’ version also includes unlimited use of buses in Nara and Ise, with the extra cost of this pass being less than buying individual day passes in those cities. Does not include limited express trains, so journey times may be a little long. Unlike the other passes though, this one includes access to Ise Grand Shrine, so seriously consider it if going there. In addition to a host of discounts to shops, restaurants and tourist attractions, the Kintetsu Rail Pass also gives 6% (after getting your tax-free discount!) off at Bic Camera electronic shops in Osaka and Kyoto. Purchase from a travel agent abroad, as there are slight price increases if buying in Japan. Normal pass: Adults 3600 yen, children 1800 yen. Plus pass: adults 4800 yen, children 2400 yen
Sample itineraries
Kansai’s best temples and shrines
Get yourself a Kintetsu Rail Pass for this one, and get the ‘plus’ version if you want to use the buses as well. Spend day one at Ise Grand Shrine for arguably Japan’s best shrine, then head to Nara for a more varied selection of shrines and temple for day two and three. On day three, head to Kyoto when you are done with Nara, and continue into the fourth day, enjoying all the UNESCO World Heritage sites Kyoto has to offer. Kyoto has a huge selection, so on your fifth day stay here until you are ready to finish in the big city of Osaka.
Something a little different…
From Osaka, do a quick day trip up into the mountains in Koyasan. On day two,
head to Uji, Kyoto’s sometimes forgotten, but very rewarding, little brother. On the third day, either head west to see Himeji’s new castle or chill out in funky Kobe. Perfect with the Kansai Thru Pass for three days.
Nara (奈良)
Nara is a large city full of UNESCO World Heritage shrines and temples, not far from Kyoto and Osaka. A must-visit for most foreign travelers coming to Japan, Nara has a large park where most of the action is, while there are a few more shrines and temples a short bicycle or bus ride away.
The ancient capital city of Japan from 710 to 794, during the Nara period, the city has had a strong Buddhist influence over the years. Since then Nara has been rather overshadowed by its big brothers in the Kansai region, however Nara is for many travelers more varied in its sights. The fact that most are quickly accessible from the train stations also makes it a great choice for budget travelers.
Discount pass: Nara Bus Pass
Not up for walking all day? With this pass visitors get unlimited use of Nara Kotsu buses, which can take visitors to all the main spots in Nara (wide pass also usable to outer temples such as Horinji Temple). Also includes discounts to 40 plus restaurants and shops, plus a handy map to make using the buses super easy. Pick up from a bus information center in JR Nara station or just outside Kintetsu Nara station. Note that if buying a Kintetsu Rail Pass, there are also ‘1-day’, ‘2-day’ and ‘Plus’ versions that include bus travel in Nara. 1 Day Pass 500 yen, 1 Day Wide Pass 1000 yen, 2 Day Pass 1500 yen (children half price)
A little bit of history
Back in the 3rd century AD, the Yamato clan rose to power to become the original Japanese emperors, leading to the area being named the Yamato Plain. During the period up to the 7th century Japan had no permanent capital and usually the capital was moved when each emperor passed away, according to Shinto beliefs at the time. As Buddhism started to gain more popularity in Japan, this taboo started to become less important for the Japanese nobility and the practice died out when the entire country joined together under imperial control in 646.
Nara was selected as the capital, but this lasted for just 75 years due to the rather naughty priest named Dōkyō. He managed to seduce his way into taking over the throne, and the capital was moved away from Nara’s powerful religious clans to Kyoto. While Nara was capital for only a short time, the influences of Chinese culture at the time had profound effects on Japanese arts and ways of life. The temples and shrines in Nara still remained powerful, giving the city the nickname “South Capital”. It has left a surprisingly good number of mind-blowing shrines and temples for visitors to enjoy today.
Things to do
Nara Park Area (奈良公園)
The park has all the main temples and shrines, so if you just have one day focus on here. Nara Park is well signposted and easy to get around.
Todaiji Temple (東大寺)
Founded all the way back in 728, this is Nara’s main Buddhist temple and was once part of the ‘Seven Great Temples’, a once very powerful and influential group. Inside the complex the Great Buddha Hall features the world's largest bronze Buddha statue, known as Daibutsu. Inside there is a famous wooden column you can walk through for good luck and deer, regarded as messengers of god by the temples followers, roam the grounds. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a must-visit in Nara. Download the free ‘Nara Audio Guide’ before on your phone or tablet for the audio guide. Adults 800 yen, children 400 yen • Open from 9:30am, closes 4:30pm (Nov - Feb), 5pm (Mar), 5:30pm (Apr - Sept), 5pm (Oct) • Google Maps
Deer Spots
Say hello to the cute deer and feed them some biscuits if you or your children want to try it out. Just be careful of any deer that jump at you for food! Usually located in Nara Park and up towards Kasuga Taisha Shrine, difficult to miss. Biscuits for feeding from 150 yen.
Kasuga Taisha Shrine (春日大社)
The main Shinto shrine in Nara, famous for its bronze statues and eerie stone lanterns that lead up to the shrine. Just like the other World Heritage sites, Kasuga Taisha has a long and rich history, being founded in 768 AD. From 1871 to 1946 it was a Kanpei-taiha (1st rank shrine). Nearby is the Kasugayama Primeval Forest, a sacred area which is considered a good spot for a light hike or somewhere to relax for a while. The forest contains over 170 kinds of frees, 60 bird types and countless species of insects. Leave plenty of time to explore this fascinating, vast complex. 500 yen • Apr - Sept: 6:00-18:00, Oct - Mar: 6:30am-5pm • Google Maps
Kofukuji Temple (興福寺)
Another of the eight World Heritage sites in Nara, this is a lovely temple complex right next to Kintetsu Nara station and one of the greatest temples from the 8th century. Originally built in Kyoto, but moved to Nara when it became the capital in 710, Kofukuji features both a three-storey and five-storey pagoda (the second highest in Japan), an old bath house and a host of well looked after Buddhist structures. Adults 600 yen, junior/high school children 500 yen, primary 200 yen • 9:00am-5pm• Google Maps
Nara National Museum (奈良国立博物館)
Not an essential visit, but check this out if you want to know a little more about the area. Nara National Museum has a large selection of exhibits about the history and culture of Nara. Well stocked with Japanese paintings and writings, ancient bronzes, Buddhist sculptures and decorative arts. Adults 520 yen, college students 260 yen, high school and below free. Free on May 5, May 18, third Monday of September, February 3 • Tues-Sun 9:30pm-5pm (open when Monday is national holiday, closed next day) • Google Maps
Sarusawa Pond (猿沢池)
Relaxing pond on the way to the park, and a good place to chill out with some drinks or a bento box. Apparently it has some turtles, but we didn’t see any!
Yoshikien Garden (吉城園)
The cheapest Japanese garden in Nara, as some of the others are crazily overpriced. Features a Japanese tea ceremony house, moss gardens and a pleasant pond. 250 yen (free for foreign tourists) • 9pm-5pm • Google Maps
Mount Wakakusa (若草山)
342 meter high mountain to the east of Nara Park, giving an unobstructed view over the cities World Heritage listed shrines, temples and pagodas. The climb up is gentle, taking 40-50 minutes to reach the peak. Also a good place to visit during the cherry blossom season, when the mountain is full of sakura trees and visitors can see even more scattered over Nara. 150 yen • 9pm-5pm (closed mid-December to late March) • 10-minute walk past Todaiji and Kasuga Taisha • Google Maps
West side
Heijo Palace (平城宮跡)
Previously the imperial residence when Nara was the capital. The grand palace and lawn were inspired by the Chinese city of Chang’an, which at the time was a prosperous powerhouse. Heijo Palace is therefore a worthwhile choice for those who may be a little tired of too many Japanese palaces or castles. The complex also features some interesting excavation grounds of the living quarters and ceremonial buildings. Free (bring your passport, as museum is free for foreign visitors) • 9:00am-4:30pm • Take the train from Kintetsu Nara to Yamato-Saidaiji station (5 mins, 210 yen), then walk 5 mins (local buses also pass from JR Nara or Kintetsu Nara) • Google Maps
Toshodaiji Temple (唐招提寺)
Founded as a place of training for Buddhists in the 7th century under the guidance of the Tang Dynasty in China and the first in Japan to be devoted to the Chinese Buddhist sect of Nanzan. Located in what used to be the center of capital Nara, Toshodaiji is considered to be a classical style of Buddhist temple. The main attraction is the recently renovated Golden Hall (kondō), a wide, tiled roofed building written about in many classical Japanese poems. Adults 600 yen, junior/high school children 400 yen, primary 200 yen • 8:30am-5pm • From Kintetsu Nara, take a train via Yamato-Saidaiji to Nishinokyo (12 mins, 260 yen), then it’s a 10 min walk. Buses no. 70, 72 and 97 from JR Nara and Kintetsu Nara (260 yen, 15 mins) also stop nearby • Google Maps
Yakushiji Temple (薬師寺)
Build by Emperor
Tenmu to cure the ills of his empress over 1000 years ago, with the original eastern pagoda still intact. One of the most famous imperial Buddhist temples, other buildings, monuments and pagodas have been faithfully reconstructed and well displayed. The prices are a little steep, so we would say this is skippable if you're running low on today’s budget and are going to see other pagodas on your trip. Adults 800 yen, junior/high school children 500 yen, primary 200 yen • 8:30am-5pm • From Kintetsu Nara, take a train via Yamato-Saidaiji to Nishinokyo (12 mins, 260 yen). Buses no. 70, 72 and 97 from JR Nara and Kintetsu Nara (260 yen, 15 mins) also stop nearby • Google Maps
Cycle it!
The west side is a bit tricky to get too on bus, and spots are close enough to make individual bus rides troublesome and far enough from each other that walking can be too much for some. We recommend renting a bicycle and spend an afternoon around the west side temples.
Volunteer guides and tours
NPO Nara Guide - http://nara-guide-club.com/
Available in multiple languages, this group can take visitors to the main sites in and around Nara. Had the quickest responses to emails and super helpful.
Nara SGG Club - http://narakanko.jp/sgg/
The main volunteer club in Nara, they have ‘model courses’ to help you plan your visit. They can also get you in touch with other associated groups.
Nara Student Guide - http://www.narastudentguide.org/
Super Cheap Japan Page 17