Head up the wide road heading out from the west exit to reach Sakae Supermarket (サカエ), on the right at the end of the first block (9am-6pm).
Polka Happy Town (ポルカ天満屋ハピータウン)
Continue down the main road past Sakae Supermarket, then take the first left at the next traffic light and walk down for 10 minutes. Polka Happy Town has a Daiso 100 Yen shop (10am-9pm), a Little Mermaid bakery (10am-6pm) with bread from 129 yen and a ramen restaurant (11am-9pm) with bowls from 660 yen.
Water bottle refill spots
Bring plenty of water, or buy some cheap drinks before at the above supermarket before heading up to the castle. As this is Japan, there are vending machines on the way, but you can save a bit by buying your drinks at the supermarket.
How to get there and away
If using a rail pass, from Okayama take a limited express train to Bitchu-Takahashi station (35 mins). Otherwise, take a local train on the JR Hakubi Line to Bitchu-Takahashi station (50 mins, 840 yen). Recommended rail passes: Japan Rail Pass
Tourist information (観光案内所)
There is a small tourist information center just up the main road from the west exit. A must visit before you begin (9am-5pm).
Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道)
This mega cycling route is becoming an increasingly popular, but still relatively quiet cycling route across the islands connecting the mainland and Shikoku island. The 60 kilometer route has been designed for cyclists in mind and the temperate climate helps to make the ride enjoyable and not too physically demanding. Along the way there are some eye-catching shrines, museums and some amazing sights over the sea.
Cycle and save!
Bicycles are available to pick up or drop off from terminals all along the route, so you don’t need to do the whole route. The route is clearly signposted, with blue lines on the road showing the way and frequent multi-lingual maps. Pick up a free copy of the map when you rent your bike as well. Along the way, there are a few alternative routes, so see how you feel when you do it. Some say the route is tough, others have no problems.
Renting bikes
Renting a bike costs 1000 yen (children 300 yen), plus a 1000 yen deposit (children 500 yen), which is not returned if you drop off at a different spot. It’s still best to drop off somewhere else though, as ferries often charge extra for carrying these back and you may miss the closing time on your return. From Onomichi, enquire at the tourist information center for rentals (rental park open 7am-7pm). Further spots for renting or dropping off are noted on the free maps given out there, or at http://www.go-shimanami.jp/global/english/bicycle/. Note that while the bridges over the islands are at time of writing toll free, this may change in the future.
Budget food and shops
Tourist centers along the way have restaurants, but they are quite overpriced. Along the main road, you will never be 10/15 minutes ride from the next convenience store, so best to get food at these, or bring your own. In Onomichi, there is an Aeon supermarket (イオン尾道店). To get there, head out of the north exit of Onomichi station, walk to the left to reach the bicycle park, then take the road on the right. Go up a few hundred meters until you get to the Aeon mall (7am-9pm).
Water bottle refill spots
Some of the tourist centers along the way have public water fountains, but budget travelers should buy a large bottle at the supermarket before heading off, or bring their own large bottle.
100 yen shops
Can Do (キャンドゥ) - Located in the Aeon mall. 9am-9pm
Free wifi locations
Free wifi is available at the tourist restaurants along the route.
How to get there and away
On Honshu (Japan’s main island), cyclists start from Onomichi. You can also start from Imabari in Shikoku, going the opposite direction. At present, it’s not advised to use the bridge over from Onomichi to the first island of Mukaishima. Instead of this, head to the ferry terminal to the south of the station and use the ferry to Mukaishima (110 yen).
With a Japan Rail Pass or other pass
From Osaka (90mins) or Kyoto (100 mins), take the Shinkansen to Fukuyama, then transfer to the Sanyo Main Line to Onomichi. Imabari is a limited express stop between Matsuyama and Okayama/Takamatsu.
Without a rail pass
Both Imabari and Onomichi are connected to highway bus networks. Local and express trains also stop at both.
Getting back on the bus or ferry
If you are ready to finish along the way and return back, there are a variety of bus and ferry services. Buses go all along the route, but a transfer may be required (2250 yen all the way). Double check latest times at the information centers before heading off. The ferry services are:
Onomichi Port – Shige Higashi Port – Sawa Port – Setoda Port
All the ports have bike terminals nearby. Only four boats per day stop at Sawa Port. 1050 yen (additional 300 yen for bicycle) • 40 minutes all the way • Departures every 1-2 hours
Imabari Port – Tomoura Port – Kinoura Port – Habu Port
There is a cycling terminal near Habu Port. Additional fees for taking the bicycle, and a few ferries don’t allow bikes (ask when you rent the bicycles for latest info). 1750 yen • 75 minutes • Departures about every 2 hours
Tourist information (観光案内所)
There is a tourist information center in Onomichi. Pick up a cycle map from here if you would like, although there are maps and signs along the way.
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Picture Attribution
Tokyo skyline, Harajuku, Ueno and Shibuya pictures ©Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau
Kinkakuji photo: ©Mr Hicks46, used under the Attribution-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic (CC BY-SA 2.0) license. Original file can be found here.
Mount Fuji photo: © Miles Root
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About the Author
Super Cheap Japan was written by Matthew Baxter, a British travel author living in Tokyo, the heart of Japan. Having traveled across the country for several years, without much money, he has built up an extensive knowledge of budget travel in the Land of the Rising Sun. He now writes professionally for several websites and publications, such as the Japan National Tourist Association, Japan Visitor and All About Japan.
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