River Road to China

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by Milton Osborne


  There is one notable exception to this generalisation. For the first time the Mekong has been bridged. Opened in 1994, a bridge more than one kilometre in length now links Thailand and Laos, from Nong Khay on the Thai side of the river to a location on the Laotian left bank, a little to the south of Vientiane. The construction of this bridge represents change indeed and may be a sign of greater changes still to come. There is talk of a second bridge and discussion continues to take place of future dams, either along the Mekong's tributaries, or even on the river itself.

  One thing has not changed in any important fashion over the past two decades. The hopes that were so central to the French explorers' mission of the Mekong becoming a trade route into China remain unrealized. So the Mekong is still what it has always been. It provides opportunities for relatively limited local water-borne traffic. But more importantly it is an essential element in the life of the men and women along its course whose lives are linked to agriculture and to fishing. When the Mekong floods it deposits rich layers of silt along that runs back from its bank. Far to the south from its source, in the Mekong Delta, the river spreads to form a region of rich fecundity that is once again being exploited in an atmosphere of political calm. Through the enormous volume of water that flows down the Mekong, Cambodia's Tonle Sap river is turned around to flow backwards into the Great Lake, where vast numbers of fish breed. When the waters reverse once again, the fish are harvested in huge quantities to form an essential part of Cambodian peasants' diet.

  The Mekong is still the ‘Great River’ that so fascinated Lagrée, Garnier and their companions. With its origins only finally discovered in 1995 in the high plateaus of eastern Tibet, it still embodies mystery as well as bringing life to the lands through which it flows. Still known by many names at different points along its length, the passage of another score of years will leave it what it has always been – the great and dominating physical feature of the Indochinese world.

  Milton Osborne,

  April 1996

  SOURCES

  Anyone who seeks a more detailed account of the events and individuals described in this book must turn to the writings of the explorers themselves and to the rich and fascinating holdings of the French Archives. In the course of intermittent research in Paris, over a period of nearly ten years, I have come upon information of interest and importance for the Mekong expedition and the abortive episode in Tonkin of 1873 in the following dépots: Archives Nationales de France; Archives Nationales de France, Section Outre-Mer; Archives du Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres (Quai d'Orsay); Archives de la Marine; Service Historique de l'Armée de Terre, Section Outre-Mer.

  The listing of printed sources below is far from exhaustive. It does, however, provide some suggestion of the most important, if not always readily available, Western language sources. There is no need, perhaps, to emphasize the fact that modern Vietnamese historians hold a very different view of the efforts mounted by Garnier and Dupuis to seize Tonkin, in 1873, from that offered by French writers of the nineteenth century.

  Aymonier, E. Voyage dans le Laos. 2 vols. Paris, 1895–97.

  Beauvais, R. de. Louis Delaporte, Explorateur (1842–1925). Paris, 1929.

  Berval, R. de. Kingdom of Laos. Limoges, 1959.

  Cady, J. F. The Roots of French Imperialism in Eastern Asia. Ithaca, N. Y., 1954.

  Carné L. de. Travels in Indo-China and the Chinese Empire. London, 1872.

  Clifford, H. Further India. London, 1904.

  Colquhoun, A. R. Amongst the Shans. London, 1885.

  Conder, J. The Modern Traveller. London, 1830.

  Delaporte, L. Voyage au Cambodge. Paris, 1880.

  Dupuis, J. Les Origines de la question du Tong-Kin. Paris 1896.

  —, Le Tong-kin et I'intervention Françise (Francis Garnier et Philastre). Paris, 1898.

  —, Le Tonkin de 1872 à 1886. Paris, 1910.

  Dutreb, M. L'Amiral Dupre et la conquête du Tonkin. Paris 1923.

  FitzGerald, C. P. The southern Expansion of the Chinese People. New York, 1972.

  Francis, G. (Francis Garnier). La Cochinchine frangaise en 1864. Paris, 1864.

  Garnier, F. Voyage de'exploration en Indo-Chine, effectué pendant les années 1866, 1867 à 1868. 2 vols. Paris, 1873.

  —, De Paris au Tibet. Paris, 1882.

  —, Voyage de'exploration en Indo-Chine. Paris, 1885.

  Gautier, H. Les Frangais au Tonkin (1787–1883). Paris 1883.

  Julien, F. Lettres d'un précurseur: Doudart de Lagrée au Cambodge et en Indo-Chine. Paris, 1886.

  Laffey, E. “The Frenchman as an old China hand: Jean Dupuis and the Garnier Affair,” Journal of Southeast Asian Studies, Vol 6. No 1.1975.

  Levy, P. “Le Voyage de Van Wuysthoff au Laos (1641–1642) d'après son Journal (Inédit en Frangais),” Cahiers de I'Ecole Française d'Extrême-Orient, 1944.

  Lintingre, P. “Permanence d'une structure monarchique en Asie: Le royaume de Champassak,” Revue Françgaise d'Historie d'Outre-Mer, 1972.

  McAleavy, H. Black Flags in Vietnam: The Story of a Chinese Intervention, the Tonkin War of 1884–85. London, 1968.

  Mallaret, L. “Aspects inconnus de Francis Garnier,” Bulletin de la Société des Etudes Indochinoises, 1952.

  Mouhot, H. Travels in the Central Parts of lndo-China (Siam), Cambodia and Laos. 2 vols. London, 1864.

  Moura, J. Le Royaume du Cambodge. 2 vols. Paris, 1883.

  Petit, E. Francis Garnier: Sa vie, ses voyages, ses oeuvres, d'après une correspondence inédite. Paris, 1894.

  Pouvourville, A. de. Francis Garnier. Paris, 1931.

  Reinach, L. de. Le Laos. Paris, 1911.

  Romanet du Caillaud, F. Histoire de I'intervention française au Tonkin, de 1872 à 1874. Paris, 1880.

  Taboulet, G. La Geste française en Indochine. 2 vols. Paris, 1955–56.

  —, “Le Voyage d'exploration du Mekong (1866–1868): Doudart de Lagrée et Francis

  Garnier,” Revue Française d'Histoire d'Outre-Mer, 1970.

  Thorel, C. Notes médicates du voyage d'exploration du Mékong et de Cochinchine. Paris, 1870.

  Truong Buu Lam. Patterns of Vietnamese Response to Foreign Intervention: 1858–1900. New Haven, Conn., 1967.

  Valette, J. “Origines et enseignements de I'expédition du Mékong,” Bulletin de la Société d'Histoire Modeme, 1968.

  —, “L'Expédition du Mékong (1866–1868) à travers les témoinages de quelques-uns de ses membres,” Revue Historique, 1972.

  Vercel, R. Francis Garnier à I'assaut des fleuves. Paris, 1952.

  Villemereuil, A. B. de. Explorations et missions de Doudart de Lagrée. Paris, 1883.

  INDEX

  Note: This index does not provide entries for the Mekong River. In the case of the six principal French explorers, and Jean Dupuis, initial index entries are followed only by entries to specific events.

  Alévy, interpreter, 52, 82, 119, 123, 126, 133, 134

  Alexander of Rhodes, Father, 38–9

  Amnat, 80

  Angkor, 24–5, 34–5, 36, 41–2, 54, 62, 75, 77, 84, 86, 87–8, 91, 215, 231

  Angkor Wat, temple, 42

  Ang Mey, Queen, 25–6

  Antwerp, 217

  Attopeu, 73, 77

  Bangkok, 23, 58–9, 77, 80, 96–8, 101, 105, 111–112, 115, 116, 220

  Ban Mouk, 84–5

  Ban Passang, 121

  Bassac, 66–72, 74–7, 84, 232

  Bhamo, 119

  Black Flag bandits, 200, 207–19

  Bonard, Admiral, 48

  Bouilleveaux, Father, 41

  Boun Oum, Prince of Champassak, 232

  Carné, Louis de, 14, 22; joins Mekong expedition, 52; resents Lagrée's discipline, 73; criticism of Garnier, 138; travels to Ta-li, 166, 171–80; criticism of Garnier, 183, 187–89; dies 1871, 189

  Chaigneau, J.-B., 39

  Chamdo (Ch'ang-tu), 237

  Chao-Anou, King of Vientiane, 96–7

  Chao Phraya, river, 36, 37, 111

  Charbon
nier, Sergeant, 76, 83, 88

  Chiang-ch'uan, 154–58

  Chiang Khan, 100–102

  Chiang Kong, 102–103, 116–17

  Chiang Mai, 100–101, 106, 111

  Chiang Rai, 98

  Chien-shui, 139, 146, 147, 148, 152, 153

  Cholon, 43, 45–6

  Chou Ta-kuan, Chinese traveler, 34

  Ch'ü-ching, 165, 169

  Chungking, 196

  Conder, Josiah, 37–8

  Cruz, da, Father, 35–6

  Delaporte, Louis, 21–2; joins Mekong expedition, 52; surveys Khone falls, 65; curbs escort's indiscipline, 72; travels to Ta-li, 166, 171–80; dies 1925, 216

  Dien-Bien-Phu, 222

  Doudart de Lagrée; Ernest-Marc-Louis de Gonzague, 15, 21; appointed leader of Mekong expedition, 49–50; explores Bolovens Plateau, 73–4; falls ill at Attopeu, 74; onset of terminal illness, 112–13; decides to continue exploring Mekong beyond Luang Prabang, 113–15; travels to Keng Tung, 121–24; obtains permission to enter China, 128–29; abandons exploration of Mekong, 136–37; agrees to attempt to reach Ta-li, 163; unable to travel beyond Hui-tse, 163; authorizes Gamier s travel to Ta-li, 163; final illness in Hui-tse, 166–70; dies March 1868, 170; buried in Saigon, 182

  Duperré, Admiral, 213–14

  Dupré, Admiral, 197–99, 202, 205–207, 211–13

  Dupuis, Jean, 141; meets Garnier in Hankow 1868, 181; surveys Red River 1871, 194, difficulties in Tongkin, 197, 199–205; joins forces with Garnier, 206–207; claims discovery of Red River's navigability, 214–15; dies 1912, 215

  Duval, Sergeant, 141

  Duyshart, King of Thailand's geographer, 102–103, 159

  Eugénie, Empress of France, 29,185

  Fenouil, Father (Kosuto), 133, 140, 161, 162–66, 169, 173, 219

  Garnier, Claire (née Knight), 48, 190–93, 195–97, 205–207, 212, 216

  Garnier, Francis, 14, 15, 22; appointed “prefect” of Cholon, 45; advocates exploration of Mekong, 46–7; joins Mekong expedition, 49; shoots Pre-atapang rapids, 60–1; falls ill in Stung Treng, 62–3 returns to Stung Treng, 70–1; travels from Ubon to Phnom Penh, 82–7; travels to rejoin main party at Uthen, 88–91; origins of controversy over expedition's leadership, 137–38; travels independently to Chien-shui, 146–48; attacked in Chien-shui, 149–51; leads party to Ta-li, 166, 171–80; assumes leadership of expedition, 180; meets Jean Dupuis in Hankow 1868, 181; controversy over leadership of expedition, 187–89, 193; serves in Franco-Prussian War 192–93; plans travel to China, 194–96; travels in China, 196–97; accepts mission to Hanoi, 205; captures Hanoi citadel, 207; killed December 1873, 210; buried in Saigon 1876, 213–14

  Garnier, Léon, 196, 205, 215–16

  Gai Long, first Nguyen Emperor of Vietnam, 40

  Hankow, 181–82, 194, 197, 200, 215

  Hanoi, 199–213 passim, 216, 229

  Harmand, Jules, 211

  Hoang Ke Vien, Vietnamese general, 208

  Hong Kong, 203

  Hsien Feng, Emperor of China, 129

  Hue, 105, 114, 207, 229

  Hui-li, 171–72, 180

  Hui-tse, 165–69, 170, 180

  I-pin, 180–81

  Islamic rebellion in Yunnan, 53, 103, 110, 115, 131, Chapter VIII passim, Chapter IX passim, Chapter X passim, 200, 234

  Istanbul, 164

  Jayavarman II, King, 34

  Jayavarman VII, King, 34

  Joubert, Lucien, Dr., 22; joins Mekong expedition, 51–2; falls ill in Stung Treng, 62; remains with Lagrée in Hui-tse, 167–71; operates on Lagrée in Hui-tse, 169; dies 1893, 216

  Julien, Félix, 215

  Kanting (K'ang-ting), 237

  Keng Hung, 119, 124, 126–30, 133–34, 140, 142, 160, 233

  Keng Khang, 120, 121, 124, 125

  Keng Neua, 129–30

  Keng Tung, 116–20, 121–25, 128

  Khemmarat, 78, 79, 80, 90

  Khone falls, 62–3, 64–5, 69, 71, 76, 99, 216, 232, 237

  Khong, island of, 65–6

  Khu Kan, 84, 90

  Kompong Cham, 42, 228

  Kompong Luong, 54

  Kosuto (see Fenouil, Father)

  Kratie, 54–6, 62–3, 66, 70, 227, 228–30

  Krauchmar, 228

  Kublai Khan, 132

  Kung, Prince, 129, 133, 135

  K'un-ming, 137, 145, 152–53, 156, 161, 164, 194, 198, 203, 219

  La Grandière, de, Admiral, 48–9, 52, 73, 92, 105, 110, 141, 186, 188

  Lagrée, Doudart de (see Doudart de Lagrée)

  Lao-Cai, 147

  Lao Papa (see Ma Te-hsing)

  Le Dynasty, 202, 204, 207

  Leguilcher, Father, 173, 175, 178, 179

  Leria, Father, 99

  Lhasa, 196, 237

  Liu Yung-fu, Black Flag leader, 208

  Livingstone, David, 217

  London, 192, 217

  Louis Napoleon, Prince, 185

  Lovek, 35–6

  Lu, Father, 173–74

  Luang Prabang, 42, 54, 75, 93, 99, 100–109, 110–11, 112–16, 117–18, 120, 122, 126, 158–59, 170, 217, 233

  Luro, Eliacin, 48, 117

  McLeod, Captain, 44, 119, 124–25, 130

  Ma Ju-lung, 156, 161–63, 203

  Malacca, 35

  Mandalay, 44, 114, 116

  Marini, de, Father, 236

  Marseilles, 196, 217

  Ma Te-hsing (Lao Papa), 132, 156, 163–64, 175

  Mecca, 156, 163

  Mekong River Development Project, 229, 235–37

  Menam (see Chao Phraya river)

  Méquet, Admiral, 192

  Miche, Bishop, 37, 183

  Mindon, King of Burma, 116

  Ming Mang, Emperor of Vietnam, 41

  Mo-chiang, 143

  Mong Lin, 118–20

  Mong Long, 126

  Mongol Dynasty, 132

  Mong Yawng, 122–25

  Mouëllo, French sailor, 63, 97, 166, 167, 169, 181, 216

  Mouhot, Henri, 41–2, 62, 74, 83, 93, 96–7, 99, 103–104, 106–107, 170

  Moulmein, 100

  Murchison, Sir Roland, 217

  Nakhon Phanom, 82

  Nam-Dinh, 207

  Nam Kan, river, 106

  Nam Ou, river, 114

  Napoleon III, Emperor of France, 21, 40, 185–86

  Nguyen Dynasty, 39, 202

  Nguyen Tri Phuong, Marshal, 206–207

  Nguyen Van Tuong, Ambassador, 212

  Nong Khay, 96

  Norodom, King of Cambodia, Chapter I passim, 50–1, 54, 70, 88, 225

  Nucheat Khatr Vorpheak, Princess, 56, 231

  Olivier, V., 39

  Om, Alexis, interpreter, 54, 70, 75, 77, 84, 87, 89

  Oudong, 23, 25–6, 41

  Pak Lay, 42, 99, 103

  Pallu, Bishop, 39

  Paoshan (Pao-shan), 237

  Paris, 15, 46, 49, 183, Chapter XI passim, 202, 204, 211, 213, 217

  Park, Mungo, 42

  Peking, 111, 115, 129, 135, 143, 162, 196, 221, 234

  Perre, Joseph, 191, 193

  Phayre, Arthur, 44

  Philastre, Paul, 211–14

  Phnom Penh, 13, 14, Chapter I passim, 33, 34–6, 41, 54, 66, 68–72, 75, 77, 82, 87–9, 91, 105, 108, 117, 225–30

  Pigneau de Behaine, Bishop, 39

  Pin-ch'uan, 175–6

  Pires, Tomé, 35

  Polo, Marco, 35, 92, 171, 218

  Pou Kombo, Cambodian rebel, 70, 78, 102

  Preatapang rapids, 58, 62, 69

  Protteau, Father, 159–62

  P'uerh, 133–40, 142

  Puginier, Bishop, 204, 208, 211

  Rama III, King of Thailand, 96–7

  Rande, French soldier, 72, 76, 83

  Red River, 41–4, 145–48, 151–53, 158, 168, 182, 194, 197–98, Chapter XII passim, 222

  Renaud, French sailor, 60–1, 67, 69, 76, 83–4

  Saigon, 14, 24, 27, 41–4, 45–7, 49, 50, 54, 69, 73, 83, 88, 92, 110, 117, 123, 130, 134, 141, 158, 169, 182, 187, 196–98
, 202–204, 205, 213–14, 217, 220, 223–24, 229

  Salween, river, 37, 44, 237

  Sambor, 33, 50, 56–9, 61, 70, 75–6, 101, 227, 229, 230–31

  Sangkeak, 84

  Saravan, 73

  Savannakhet, 229

  Se Don, 67, 73

  Séguin, interpreter, 52, 72, 96

  Se Kong, river, 59, 62, 73

  Se Moun, river, 75–6, 78–9, 83, 90

  Shanghai, 164, 182, 195–98, 203

  Shih-p'ing, 153

  Siemlap, 120–21

  Sihanouk, Prince Norodom, 56–7, 225, 231

  Singapore, 164, 214

  Sisaket, 83

  Sisowath, King of Cambodia, 30

  Son–Tay, 208

  Sop Yong, 121

  Soukrom, 85

  Ssu-mao, 115, 128, 130, 132–36, 138, 141

  Stung Treng, 58–60, 62–3, 66, 69–70, 72–5, 77, 91, 228, 231

  Surin, 84

  Ta-li, 134, 137, 150, 156, 163–64, 166, 171, 173, 176–80, 196

  Tei, Vietnamese escortman, 83, 86, 89–91, 133, 146–47, 150, 166, 180

  Thakhek, 82

  Thieu Tri, Emperor of Vietnam, 40

  Thonburi, 98

  Thorel, Clovis, Dr., 22; joins Mekong expedition, 51; travels to Ta-li, 166, 171–79; dies 1911, 216

  Tonle Sap, river, 26, 33, 34–5, 88

  Touron (Tourane, modern Da-Nang), 38, 41

  T'ung-hai, 153–54

  T'ung-kuan, 142

  Tu Wen-hsiu, Sultan of Ta-li, 132, 177–79

  Ubon, 75–6, 78, 82, 86, 87–90, 91

  Uthen, 82, 91–3, 95

  Vannier, P., 39

  Vientiane, 36, 62, 68, 93, 95–9, 101, 105, 216, 233

  Villemereuil, de, Captain, 215

  Wat Phu, temple, 66–7, 231

  Wuysthof, Geebaerd van, 36, 93, 95–6, 98

  Yang-lin, 164

  Yangtze river, 164, 167, 171–73, 181, 200

  Yellow Flag bandits, 200

  Yen-Bay, 194, 202

  Yüan-chiang, 143–45, 148, 158

 

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