There is one notable exception to this generalisation. For the first time the Mekong has been bridged. Opened in 1994, a bridge more than one kilometre in length now links Thailand and Laos, from Nong Khay on the Thai side of the river to a location on the Laotian left bank, a little to the south of Vientiane. The construction of this bridge represents change indeed and may be a sign of greater changes still to come. There is talk of a second bridge and discussion continues to take place of future dams, either along the Mekong's tributaries, or even on the river itself.
One thing has not changed in any important fashion over the past two decades. The hopes that were so central to the French explorers' mission of the Mekong becoming a trade route into China remain unrealized. So the Mekong is still what it has always been. It provides opportunities for relatively limited local water-borne traffic. But more importantly it is an essential element in the life of the men and women along its course whose lives are linked to agriculture and to fishing. When the Mekong floods it deposits rich layers of silt along that runs back from its bank. Far to the south from its source, in the Mekong Delta, the river spreads to form a region of rich fecundity that is once again being exploited in an atmosphere of political calm. Through the enormous volume of water that flows down the Mekong, Cambodia's Tonle Sap river is turned around to flow backwards into the Great Lake, where vast numbers of fish breed. When the waters reverse once again, the fish are harvested in huge quantities to form an essential part of Cambodian peasants' diet.
The Mekong is still the ‘Great River’ that so fascinated Lagrée, Garnier and their companions. With its origins only finally discovered in 1995 in the high plateaus of eastern Tibet, it still embodies mystery as well as bringing life to the lands through which it flows. Still known by many names at different points along its length, the passage of another score of years will leave it what it has always been – the great and dominating physical feature of the Indochinese world.
Milton Osborne,
April 1996
SOURCES
Anyone who seeks a more detailed account of the events and individuals described in this book must turn to the writings of the explorers themselves and to the rich and fascinating holdings of the French Archives. In the course of intermittent research in Paris, over a period of nearly ten years, I have come upon information of interest and importance for the Mekong expedition and the abortive episode in Tonkin of 1873 in the following dépots: Archives Nationales de France; Archives Nationales de France, Section Outre-Mer; Archives du Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres (Quai d'Orsay); Archives de la Marine; Service Historique de l'Armée de Terre, Section Outre-Mer.
The listing of printed sources below is far from exhaustive. It does, however, provide some suggestion of the most important, if not always readily available, Western language sources. There is no need, perhaps, to emphasize the fact that modern Vietnamese historians hold a very different view of the efforts mounted by Garnier and Dupuis to seize Tonkin, in 1873, from that offered by French writers of the nineteenth century.
Aymonier, E. Voyage dans le Laos. 2 vols. Paris, 1895–97.
Beauvais, R. de. Louis Delaporte, Explorateur (1842–1925). Paris, 1929.
Berval, R. de. Kingdom of Laos. Limoges, 1959.
Cady, J. F. The Roots of French Imperialism in Eastern Asia. Ithaca, N. Y., 1954.
Carné L. de. Travels in Indo-China and the Chinese Empire. London, 1872.
Clifford, H. Further India. London, 1904.
Colquhoun, A. R. Amongst the Shans. London, 1885.
Conder, J. The Modern Traveller. London, 1830.
Delaporte, L. Voyage au Cambodge. Paris, 1880.
Dupuis, J. Les Origines de la question du Tong-Kin. Paris 1896.
—, Le Tong-kin et I'intervention Françise (Francis Garnier et Philastre). Paris, 1898.
—, Le Tonkin de 1872 à 1886. Paris, 1910.
Dutreb, M. L'Amiral Dupre et la conquête du Tonkin. Paris 1923.
FitzGerald, C. P. The southern Expansion of the Chinese People. New York, 1972.
Francis, G. (Francis Garnier). La Cochinchine frangaise en 1864. Paris, 1864.
Garnier, F. Voyage de'exploration en Indo-Chine, effectué pendant les années 1866, 1867 à 1868. 2 vols. Paris, 1873.
—, De Paris au Tibet. Paris, 1882.
—, Voyage de'exploration en Indo-Chine. Paris, 1885.
Gautier, H. Les Frangais au Tonkin (1787–1883). Paris 1883.
Julien, F. Lettres d'un précurseur: Doudart de Lagrée au Cambodge et en Indo-Chine. Paris, 1886.
Laffey, E. “The Frenchman as an old China hand: Jean Dupuis and the Garnier Affair,” Journal of Southeast Asian Studies, Vol 6. No 1.1975.
Levy, P. “Le Voyage de Van Wuysthoff au Laos (1641–1642) d'après son Journal (Inédit en Frangais),” Cahiers de I'Ecole Française d'Extrême-Orient, 1944.
Lintingre, P. “Permanence d'une structure monarchique en Asie: Le royaume de Champassak,” Revue Françgaise d'Historie d'Outre-Mer, 1972.
McAleavy, H. Black Flags in Vietnam: The Story of a Chinese Intervention, the Tonkin War of 1884–85. London, 1968.
Mallaret, L. “Aspects inconnus de Francis Garnier,” Bulletin de la Société des Etudes Indochinoises, 1952.
Mouhot, H. Travels in the Central Parts of lndo-China (Siam), Cambodia and Laos. 2 vols. London, 1864.
Moura, J. Le Royaume du Cambodge. 2 vols. Paris, 1883.
Petit, E. Francis Garnier: Sa vie, ses voyages, ses oeuvres, d'après une correspondence inédite. Paris, 1894.
Pouvourville, A. de. Francis Garnier. Paris, 1931.
Reinach, L. de. Le Laos. Paris, 1911.
Romanet du Caillaud, F. Histoire de I'intervention française au Tonkin, de 1872 à 1874. Paris, 1880.
Taboulet, G. La Geste française en Indochine. 2 vols. Paris, 1955–56.
—, “Le Voyage d'exploration du Mekong (1866–1868): Doudart de Lagrée et Francis
Garnier,” Revue Française d'Histoire d'Outre-Mer, 1970.
Thorel, C. Notes médicates du voyage d'exploration du Mékong et de Cochinchine. Paris, 1870.
Truong Buu Lam. Patterns of Vietnamese Response to Foreign Intervention: 1858–1900. New Haven, Conn., 1967.
Valette, J. “Origines et enseignements de I'expédition du Mékong,” Bulletin de la Société d'Histoire Modeme, 1968.
—, “L'Expédition du Mékong (1866–1868) à travers les témoinages de quelques-uns de ses membres,” Revue Historique, 1972.
Vercel, R. Francis Garnier à I'assaut des fleuves. Paris, 1952.
Villemereuil, A. B. de. Explorations et missions de Doudart de Lagrée. Paris, 1883.
INDEX
Note: This index does not provide entries for the Mekong River. In the case of the six principal French explorers, and Jean Dupuis, initial index entries are followed only by entries to specific events.
Alévy, interpreter, 52, 82, 119, 123, 126, 133, 134
Alexander of Rhodes, Father, 38–9
Amnat, 80
Angkor, 24–5, 34–5, 36, 41–2, 54, 62, 75, 77, 84, 86, 87–8, 91, 215, 231
Angkor Wat, temple, 42
Ang Mey, Queen, 25–6
Antwerp, 217
Attopeu, 73, 77
Bangkok, 23, 58–9, 77, 80, 96–8, 101, 105, 111–112, 115, 116, 220
Ban Mouk, 84–5
Ban Passang, 121
Bassac, 66–72, 74–7, 84, 232
Bhamo, 119
Black Flag bandits, 200, 207–19
Bonard, Admiral, 48
Bouilleveaux, Father, 41
Boun Oum, Prince of Champassak, 232
Carné, Louis de, 14, 22; joins Mekong expedition, 52; resents Lagrée's discipline, 73; criticism of Garnier, 138; travels to Ta-li, 166, 171–80; criticism of Garnier, 183, 187–89; dies 1871, 189
Chaigneau, J.-B., 39
Chamdo (Ch'ang-tu), 237
Chao-Anou, King of Vientiane, 96–7
Chao Phraya, river, 36, 37, 111
Charbon
nier, Sergeant, 76, 83, 88
Chiang-ch'uan, 154–58
Chiang Khan, 100–102
Chiang Kong, 102–103, 116–17
Chiang Mai, 100–101, 106, 111
Chiang Rai, 98
Chien-shui, 139, 146, 147, 148, 152, 153
Cholon, 43, 45–6
Chou Ta-kuan, Chinese traveler, 34
Ch'ü-ching, 165, 169
Chungking, 196
Conder, Josiah, 37–8
Cruz, da, Father, 35–6
Delaporte, Louis, 21–2; joins Mekong expedition, 52; surveys Khone falls, 65; curbs escort's indiscipline, 72; travels to Ta-li, 166, 171–80; dies 1925, 216
Dien-Bien-Phu, 222
Doudart de Lagrée; Ernest-Marc-Louis de Gonzague, 15, 21; appointed leader of Mekong expedition, 49–50; explores Bolovens Plateau, 73–4; falls ill at Attopeu, 74; onset of terminal illness, 112–13; decides to continue exploring Mekong beyond Luang Prabang, 113–15; travels to Keng Tung, 121–24; obtains permission to enter China, 128–29; abandons exploration of Mekong, 136–37; agrees to attempt to reach Ta-li, 163; unable to travel beyond Hui-tse, 163; authorizes Gamier s travel to Ta-li, 163; final illness in Hui-tse, 166–70; dies March 1868, 170; buried in Saigon, 182
Duperré, Admiral, 213–14
Dupré, Admiral, 197–99, 202, 205–207, 211–13
Dupuis, Jean, 141; meets Garnier in Hankow 1868, 181; surveys Red River 1871, 194, difficulties in Tongkin, 197, 199–205; joins forces with Garnier, 206–207; claims discovery of Red River's navigability, 214–15; dies 1912, 215
Duval, Sergeant, 141
Duyshart, King of Thailand's geographer, 102–103, 159
Eugénie, Empress of France, 29,185
Fenouil, Father (Kosuto), 133, 140, 161, 162–66, 169, 173, 219
Garnier, Claire (née Knight), 48, 190–93, 195–97, 205–207, 212, 216
Garnier, Francis, 14, 15, 22; appointed “prefect” of Cholon, 45; advocates exploration of Mekong, 46–7; joins Mekong expedition, 49; shoots Pre-atapang rapids, 60–1; falls ill in Stung Treng, 62–3 returns to Stung Treng, 70–1; travels from Ubon to Phnom Penh, 82–7; travels to rejoin main party at Uthen, 88–91; origins of controversy over expedition's leadership, 137–38; travels independently to Chien-shui, 146–48; attacked in Chien-shui, 149–51; leads party to Ta-li, 166, 171–80; assumes leadership of expedition, 180; meets Jean Dupuis in Hankow 1868, 181; controversy over leadership of expedition, 187–89, 193; serves in Franco-Prussian War 192–93; plans travel to China, 194–96; travels in China, 196–97; accepts mission to Hanoi, 205; captures Hanoi citadel, 207; killed December 1873, 210; buried in Saigon 1876, 213–14
Garnier, Léon, 196, 205, 215–16
Gai Long, first Nguyen Emperor of Vietnam, 40
Hankow, 181–82, 194, 197, 200, 215
Hanoi, 199–213 passim, 216, 229
Harmand, Jules, 211
Hoang Ke Vien, Vietnamese general, 208
Hong Kong, 203
Hsien Feng, Emperor of China, 129
Hue, 105, 114, 207, 229
Hui-li, 171–72, 180
Hui-tse, 165–69, 170, 180
I-pin, 180–81
Islamic rebellion in Yunnan, 53, 103, 110, 115, 131, Chapter VIII passim, Chapter IX passim, Chapter X passim, 200, 234
Istanbul, 164
Jayavarman II, King, 34
Jayavarman VII, King, 34
Joubert, Lucien, Dr., 22; joins Mekong expedition, 51–2; falls ill in Stung Treng, 62; remains with Lagrée in Hui-tse, 167–71; operates on Lagrée in Hui-tse, 169; dies 1893, 216
Julien, Félix, 215
Kanting (K'ang-ting), 237
Keng Hung, 119, 124, 126–30, 133–34, 140, 142, 160, 233
Keng Khang, 120, 121, 124, 125
Keng Neua, 129–30
Keng Tung, 116–20, 121–25, 128
Khemmarat, 78, 79, 80, 90
Khone falls, 62–3, 64–5, 69, 71, 76, 99, 216, 232, 237
Khong, island of, 65–6
Khu Kan, 84, 90
Kompong Cham, 42, 228
Kompong Luong, 54
Kosuto (see Fenouil, Father)
Kratie, 54–6, 62–3, 66, 70, 227, 228–30
Krauchmar, 228
Kublai Khan, 132
Kung, Prince, 129, 133, 135
K'un-ming, 137, 145, 152–53, 156, 161, 164, 194, 198, 203, 219
La Grandière, de, Admiral, 48–9, 52, 73, 92, 105, 110, 141, 186, 188
Lagrée, Doudart de (see Doudart de Lagrée)
Lao-Cai, 147
Lao Papa (see Ma Te-hsing)
Le Dynasty, 202, 204, 207
Leguilcher, Father, 173, 175, 178, 179
Leria, Father, 99
Lhasa, 196, 237
Liu Yung-fu, Black Flag leader, 208
Livingstone, David, 217
London, 192, 217
Louis Napoleon, Prince, 185
Lovek, 35–6
Lu, Father, 173–74
Luang Prabang, 42, 54, 75, 93, 99, 100–109, 110–11, 112–16, 117–18, 120, 122, 126, 158–59, 170, 217, 233
Luro, Eliacin, 48, 117
McLeod, Captain, 44, 119, 124–25, 130
Ma Ju-lung, 156, 161–63, 203
Malacca, 35
Mandalay, 44, 114, 116
Marini, de, Father, 236
Marseilles, 196, 217
Ma Te-hsing (Lao Papa), 132, 156, 163–64, 175
Mecca, 156, 163
Mekong River Development Project, 229, 235–37
Menam (see Chao Phraya river)
Méquet, Admiral, 192
Miche, Bishop, 37, 183
Mindon, King of Burma, 116
Ming Mang, Emperor of Vietnam, 41
Mo-chiang, 143
Mong Lin, 118–20
Mong Long, 126
Mongol Dynasty, 132
Mong Yawng, 122–25
Mouëllo, French sailor, 63, 97, 166, 167, 169, 181, 216
Mouhot, Henri, 41–2, 62, 74, 83, 93, 96–7, 99, 103–104, 106–107, 170
Moulmein, 100
Murchison, Sir Roland, 217
Nakhon Phanom, 82
Nam-Dinh, 207
Nam Kan, river, 106
Nam Ou, river, 114
Napoleon III, Emperor of France, 21, 40, 185–86
Nguyen Dynasty, 39, 202
Nguyen Tri Phuong, Marshal, 206–207
Nguyen Van Tuong, Ambassador, 212
Nong Khay, 96
Norodom, King of Cambodia, Chapter I passim, 50–1, 54, 70, 88, 225
Nucheat Khatr Vorpheak, Princess, 56, 231
Olivier, V., 39
Om, Alexis, interpreter, 54, 70, 75, 77, 84, 87, 89
Oudong, 23, 25–6, 41
Pak Lay, 42, 99, 103
Pallu, Bishop, 39
Paoshan (Pao-shan), 237
Paris, 15, 46, 49, 183, Chapter XI passim, 202, 204, 211, 213, 217
Park, Mungo, 42
Peking, 111, 115, 129, 135, 143, 162, 196, 221, 234
Perre, Joseph, 191, 193
Phayre, Arthur, 44
Philastre, Paul, 211–14
Phnom Penh, 13, 14, Chapter I passim, 33, 34–6, 41, 54, 66, 68–72, 75, 77, 82, 87–9, 91, 105, 108, 117, 225–30
Pigneau de Behaine, Bishop, 39
Pin-ch'uan, 175–6
Pires, Tomé, 35
Polo, Marco, 35, 92, 171, 218
Pou Kombo, Cambodian rebel, 70, 78, 102
Preatapang rapids, 58, 62, 69
Protteau, Father, 159–62
P'uerh, 133–40, 142
Puginier, Bishop, 204, 208, 211
Rama III, King of Thailand, 96–7
Rande, French soldier, 72, 76, 83
Red River, 41–4, 145–48, 151–53, 158, 168, 182, 194, 197–98, Chapter XII passim, 222
Renaud, French sailor, 60–1, 67, 69, 76, 83–4
Saigon, 14, 24, 27, 41–4, 45–7, 49, 50, 54, 69, 73, 83, 88, 92, 110, 117, 123, 130, 134, 141, 158, 169, 182, 187, 196–98
, 202–204, 205, 213–14, 217, 220, 223–24, 229
Salween, river, 37, 44, 237
Sambor, 33, 50, 56–9, 61, 70, 75–6, 101, 227, 229, 230–31
Sangkeak, 84
Saravan, 73
Savannakhet, 229
Se Don, 67, 73
Séguin, interpreter, 52, 72, 96
Se Kong, river, 59, 62, 73
Se Moun, river, 75–6, 78–9, 83, 90
Shanghai, 164, 182, 195–98, 203
Shih-p'ing, 153
Siemlap, 120–21
Sihanouk, Prince Norodom, 56–7, 225, 231
Singapore, 164, 214
Sisaket, 83
Sisowath, King of Cambodia, 30
Son–Tay, 208
Sop Yong, 121
Soukrom, 85
Ssu-mao, 115, 128, 130, 132–36, 138, 141
Stung Treng, 58–60, 62–3, 66, 69–70, 72–5, 77, 91, 228, 231
Surin, 84
Ta-li, 134, 137, 150, 156, 163–64, 166, 171, 173, 176–80, 196
Tei, Vietnamese escortman, 83, 86, 89–91, 133, 146–47, 150, 166, 180
Thakhek, 82
Thieu Tri, Emperor of Vietnam, 40
Thonburi, 98
Thorel, Clovis, Dr., 22; joins Mekong expedition, 51; travels to Ta-li, 166, 171–79; dies 1911, 216
Tonle Sap, river, 26, 33, 34–5, 88
Touron (Tourane, modern Da-Nang), 38, 41
T'ung-hai, 153–54
T'ung-kuan, 142
Tu Wen-hsiu, Sultan of Ta-li, 132, 177–79
Ubon, 75–6, 78, 82, 86, 87–90, 91
Uthen, 82, 91–3, 95
Vannier, P., 39
Vientiane, 36, 62, 68, 93, 95–9, 101, 105, 216, 233
Villemereuil, de, Captain, 215
Wat Phu, temple, 66–7, 231
Wuysthof, Geebaerd van, 36, 93, 95–6, 98
Yang-lin, 164
Yangtze river, 164, 167, 171–73, 181, 200
Yellow Flag bandits, 200
Yen-Bay, 194, 202
Yüan-chiang, 143–45, 148, 158
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