Beard On Bread

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by James Beard

Spoon the batter into buttered rings placed on a moderately hot griddle to a depth of about ½ inch. Cook until dry and bubbly on top. Remove the rings, turn the crumpets, and brown lightly on the other side. Let cool. To serve, toast and flood with butter.

  Yeast Griddle Cakes or Pancakes

  These are simply wheat-flour pancakes made with a starter. In earlier times people kept a starter going especially for pancakes. Nowadays we usually make the starter the night before, which is what we are doing in this case. It makes light, puffy, absolutely delicious pancakes.

  [About 12 to 14 cakes]

  1 package active dry yeast

  1 cup warm water (100° to 115°, approximately)

  2 to 3 tablespoons granulated sugar

  2 cups all-purpose flour

  1 egg

  ½ teaspoon salt

  3 tablespoons melted butter

  1 cup evaporated or fresh milk

  The night before making the pancakes combine the yeast, water, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 cup of flour in a mixing bowl. Cover with a cloth and leave overnight to rise. The next morning beat the egg well in a mixing bowl and add 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar. Beat again, add the yeast mixture, and stir in the salt, butter, and the second cup of flour; add milk if mixture seems too thick. However, the batter should be a little thicker than is customary. The pancakes should be baked on a well-buttered griddle. Serve at once with melted butter, syrup, or honey, and bacon, ham, or even a little steak.

  Yeast Buckwheat Cakes

  Buckwheat cakes have had a strong part in American cookery for the last 150 to 200 years, epitomizing the hearty fare of country life. The batter would be left to rise overnight, then in the morning the cakes were mixed and baked and served spanking hot for breakfast with good slices of country ham, bacon, or sausages and sometimes with all three, as well as with maple syrup, honey, or treacle, and tons of butter.

  [About 20 small pancakes]

  1 package active dry yeast

  2 cups warm water (100° to 115°, approximately)

  1 teaspoon salt

  1 cup all-purpose flour

  1 cup buckwheat flour

  2 tablespoons molasses

  ¼ teaspoon baking soda

  1 tablespoon melted butter

  The night before, mix the yeast with the water in a large bowl, add the salt and the flours, and cover the bowl with a cloth. Let the batter stand all night in a warm place. In the morning, add the molasses, baking soda, and melted butter to make a very, very thin batter. Bake on a well-buttered griddle two or three cakes at a time, and serve them on a hot plate with plenty of melted butter and warm syrup or honey.

  NOTE

  If you want to perpetuate the starter for future use: Dissolve a package of yeast in 3 cups lukewarm water. Add 1 teaspoon salt and 1 cup each of white and buckwheat flour. The next morning take out 1½ cups of the starter and add ¾ cup warm milk, 2 tablespoons molasses, ¼ teaspoon soda, 1 tablespoon melted butter, and another ¾ cup white flour and ¾ cup buckwheat flour. Proceed to bake as described in the master recipe. Cover the remaining starter loosely and refrigerate. The night before using, again add 1 cup lukewarm water, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 cup each of the flours, and in the morning proceed as described in the beginning of the Note. Again store the starter. This will work for quite some time if you renew the starter frequently.

  Index

  additives

  all-purpose flour

  almonds

  in banana nut bread

  in Kugelhopf

  in pain de fruits

  in raisin and nut bread

  Alvin Kerr’s zephyr buns

  Anadama bread

  anchovies

  in pissaladière

  aniseed

  in Swedish limpa

  apple bread, raw

  apricot

  bread

  glaze for rich sour-cream coffee cake

  Armenian

  bread

  thin bread

  baguette(s)

  loaves

  baking soda

  see also soda breads

  baking powder

  baking powder bread(s) and biscuits

  apple, raw

  apricot

  baking and mixing of

  biscuits

  cream

  Carl Gohs’ zucchini

  Clay’s cornsticks

  cranberry

  orange

  quick

  sauce

  fruit, quick

  Helen Evans Brown’s corn chili

  lemon

  pain de fruits

  prune

  banana

  bread

  nut bread

  barley flour

  in Norwegian flatbread

  barley meal

  bars, maple

  basic home-style bread

  basic white bread

  basic yeast bread and other white-flour breads

  basil

  in pizza loaf

  batter bread(s)

  dill-seed

  English muffin

  for microwave oven

  golden cake

  Sally Lunn

  Bavarian rye bread

  beer

  in Finnish sour rye bread

  in verterkake

  biscuits

  baking powder

  crackling

  black bread

  Boston brown bread

  Bourbon

  in persimmon bread

  bowls, how to grease

  bran

  brandy

  in rich sour-cream coffee cake

  bread(s)

  for afternoon tea or coffee

  basic white

  for breakfast

  and butter

  cooling

  croutons

  crumbs

  defects, suggestions for remedying

  filled

  flours, 1.1, 2.1

  free-form loaves

  freezing, 1.1, 2.1

  hot

  with hot dishes

  kneading, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3

  knives

  leavening agents used for, 1.1, 2.1

  liquid used in, 2.1, 2.2

  for luncheon

  pans

  rising, 1.1, 2.1

  sandwich

  shaping, 2.1, 2.2

  slashing

  for special diets

  stale

  storing, 1.1, 2.1

  sweetened

  toast, 1.1, 1.2

  testing

  bread sticks

  breakfast breads, listed

  brewer’s wort

  in verterkake

  brioche bread

  brioche dough for pissaladière

  broiled white free-form loaf

  brown bread

  Boston

  Myrtle Allen’s

  “bubble bread”

  buckwheat

  buckwheat cakes, yeast

  bunuelos

  buns

  Alvin Kerr’s zephyr

  water-proofed egg twists

  butter, with bread

  butter flakes

  butterfly rolls

  buttermilk white bread

  cake doughnuts

  “cannon balls”

  caraway seeds

  in black bread

  in George Lang’s potato bread

  in pronto pumpernickel

  in pumpernickel bread I

  in pumpernickel bread II

  in rye bread

  in saffron fruit bread

  in sourdough rye

  in Swedish limpa

  cardamom

  in lefse

  in Swedish limpa

  Carl Gohs’ bread

  Carl Gohs’ zucchini bread

  challah

  Cheddar cheese

  in cheese bread

  cheese

  in baking powder biscuits

  bread

  in pissaladière

  pizza
loaf

  chilis

  in Helen Evans Brown’s corn chili bread

  cinnamon bread

  citron

  candied, in pain de fruits

  in saffron fruit bread

  Clay’s cornsticks

  cocoa

  in black bread

  coffee

  in black bread

  coffee cake(s)

  Kugelhopf

  monkey bread

  Moravian

  pistachio bread

  rich sour-cream

  Cognac

  in currant bread

  in Mother’s raisin bread

  in persimmon bread

  in whole-wheat nut bread

  Cointreau

  in glaze for rich sour-cream coffee cake

  confectioners’ sugar icing

  cooling bread

  corn chili bread, Helen Evans Brown’s

  cornmeal

  in Anadama bread

  in black bread

  in Boston brown bread

  in Clay’s cornsticks

  in Helen Evans Brown’s corn chili bread

  in pumpernickel bread I

  in pumpernickel bread II

  in rye bread

  cornmeal bread

  cornsticks, Clay’s

  cottage cheese

  in dill-seed bread

  country fair bread

  cracked wheat

  cracked wheat bread

  variation on French-style bread

  crackling biscuits

  cranberry

  orange bread

  quick bread

  sauce bread

  cream biscuits

  croutons

  Pullman loaf, used for

  crumbs

  breads recommended for cheese, used for

  Pullman loaf, used for

  crumpets

  “Cuban bread”

  currant bread

  currants

  in monkey bread

  in rich sour-cream coffee cake

  in saffron fruit bread

  dark herb bread

  defects, suggestions for remedying

  dietetic breads gluten

  salt-free water-proofed bread

  dill-seed bread

  dinner breads, listed

  dough gobs

  dough hook

  doughnuts

  cake

  filled

  raised

  drop biscuits

  see baking powder biscuits

  egg breads

  brioche bread

  challah

  country fair

  Italian holiday

  Portuguese sweet

  salt-free water-proofed

  water-proofed

  water-proofed egg twists

  electric mixer

  English muffin bread

  for microwave oven

  feather bread, Italian

  figs, dried

  in pain de fruits

  filberts

  in Carl Gohs’ zucchini bread

  in pain de fruits

  in raisin and nut bread

  in water-proofed egg twists

  filled breads

  lahma bi ajeen

  pissaladière

  pizza loaf

  filled doughnuts

  fillings

  for lahma bi ajeen

  for rich sour-cream coffee cake

  Finnish sour rye bread

  flat breads

  Armenian thin

  lefse

  Norwegian

  pita

  flour(s), 1.1, 2.1

  special

  free-form loaves

  freezing bread, 1.1, 2.1

  French-style bread

  French fruit bread (pain de fruits)

  fried cakes

  buñuelos

  cake doughnuts

  dough gobs

  filled doughnuts

  maple bars

  raised doughnuts

  fried dough

  fruit bread(s)

  apple, raw

  apricot

  banana

  banana nut

  cranberry orange

  cranberry, quick

  cranberry sauce

  lemon

  pain de fruits

  persimmon

  prune

  quick

  saffron

  garlic

  in dark herb bread

  in lahma bi ajeen

  in pissaladière

  in pizza caccia nanza

  George Lang’s potato bread with caraway seeds

  gift breads

  Carl Gohs’ bread

  golden cake batter bread

  Maryetta’s oatmeal

  pain de fruits

  raw apple

  gingerbread

  variation with candied ginger

  girdle scones

  glaze for rich sour-cream coffee cake

  gluten

  gluten bread

  golden cake batter bread

  graham bread

  graham flour

  in Boston brown bread

  variation on refrigerator potato bread

  Grand Marnier

  in glaze for rich sour-cream coffee cake

  griddle breads

  crumpets

  girdle scones

  potato scones

  yeast buckwheat cakes

  yeast griddle cakes or pancakes

  Gruyère cheese

  in cheese bread

  in Helen Evans Brown’s corn chili bread

  hard-wheat flour, 1.1, 1.2

  in buttermilk white bread

  in country fair bread

  in pita bread

  in pizza loaf

  whole-wheat bread made with

  hand-milled whole wheat

  in William Melville Child’s health bread

  Helen Evans Brown’s corn chili bread

  herb bread, dark

  herbs

  in baking powder biscuits

  in dark herb bread

  see also basil, dill-seed, parsley, rosemary

  holiday bread(s)

  country fair

  Italian

  Kugelhopf

  saffron fruit

  home-style bread, basic

  hot breads, listed

  hot dishes, breads suggested as accompaniments for

  icing, confectioners’ sugar

  Irish whole-wheat soda bread

  white-flour variation on

  Italian

  feather bread

  holiday bread

  Jane Grigson’s walnut bread from Southern Burgundy

  jelly doughnuts

  kneading, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3

  knives, bread

  Kugelhopf

  lahma hi ajeen

  lamb, ground

  in lahma hi ajeen

  leavening

  lefse

  lemon bread

  limpa, Swedish

  liquid used in breads, 2.1, 2.2

  luncheon, breads and rolls suggested for

  Madeira

  in prune bread

  maple bars

  Maryetta’s oatmeal bread

  meals

  Melba toast

  microwave oven

  English muffin bread for

  Middle Eastern bread

  milk, use in bread

  milk toast

  mixer, electric

  monkey bread

  Monterey Jack cheese

  in Helen Evans Brown’s corn chili bread

  Moravian coffee cake

  Mother’s raisin bread

  mozzarella cheese

  in pizza loaf

  Mrs. Elizabeth Ovenstad’s bread

  Myrtle Allen’s brown bread

  Norwegian

  flatbread

  sweet bread (verterkake)

  whole-wheat bread

  nut bread(s)

  banana

&n
bsp; pistachio

  and raisin

  whole-wheat

  nuts

  in apricot bread

  in banana bread

  in lahma hi ajeen

  in pain de fruits

  in persimmon bread

  in quick cranberry bread

  in raw apple bread

  in rich sour-cream coffee cake

  in water-proofed egg twists

  oatmeal

  in cornmeal bread

  in verterkake

  in William Melville Child’s health bread

  oatmeal bread

  with cooked oatmeal

  Maryetta’s

  olives

  in pissaladière

  onions

  in dill-seed bread

  in Jane Grigson’s walnut bread

  in lahma hi ajeen

  in pissaladière

  orange

  cranberry orange bread

  orange, candied

  in quick fruit bread

  in Swedish limpa

  orange flower water

  in quick fruit bread

  pain de fruits (fruit bread)

  pain de mie

  pancakes

  yeast

  pans, bread

  how to grease

  Parker House rolls

  Parmesan cheese

  in cheese bread

  in pissaladière

  in pizza loaf

  parsley

  in dark herb bread

  in lahma bi ajeen

  peanuts, unsalted

  in raisin and nut bread

  pecans

  in quick cranberry bread

  in raisin and nut bread

  in raw apple bread

  in water-proofed egg twists

  persimmon bread

  pine nuts

  in lahma bi ajeen

  in whole-wheat nut bread

  pissaladière

  pistachio bread

  pistachios

  in variation on quick fruit bread

  pita bread

  pizza caccia nanza

  pizza loaf

  plain saffron bread

  poppy seeds

  in bread sticks

  in challah

  in sourdough rye

  in variation on Parker House rolls

  Portuguese sweet bread

  potato bread

  with caraway seeds, George Lang’s

  refrigerator

  potatoes

  in Moravian coffee cake

  in pumpernickel bread I

  whole-wheat bread with

  potato scones

  pronto pumpernickel

  proofing yeast

  prune bread

  prunes

  in quick fruit bread

  Pullman loaf (pain de mie)

  pumpernickel

  bread I

  bread II

  pronto

  quick cranberry bread

  quick fruit bread

  “race” track coffee cake

  raised doughnuts

  raisin bread

  Mother’s

  and nut

  raisins

  in Kugelhopf

  in pain de fruits

  in persimmon bread

  in variation on Boston brown bread

  in verterkake

  in whole-wheat nut bread

 

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