Postcards from Stanland

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Postcards from Stanland Page 37

by David H. Mould


  journalism education, 63–66, 71, 208, 217

  Kadyrzhanov, Kairat, 242–43

  Kakimzhanova, Gulsum, 244

  Kalman, Maira, 9

  Kalmykov, Dmitry, 222–25, 234, 244

  Kant, 88, 94

  Kara Balta, 94, 104

  Karachaganak (gas condensate field), 266, 270

  Karaganda (Qaragandhy), 177, 188, 198, 206, 218, 219, 220, 225, 234, 236, 238, 239; climate, 216, 219; coal mining, 213–14, 225, 230; ethnic Germans, 215; growth during World War II, 214; history of, 213–15; iron and steel industry, 214; perceptions of, 213, 215–16; pollution, 213; reputation for crime, 214–15; as transportation center, 214; underground economy, 214–15

  Karaganda Magnitka (Temirtau steel plant), 227–29

  Karaganda State Medical University, 240

  Karaganda State University, 216–17

  Karakol (Przhevalsk), 94, 96, 98, 99, 102; architecture, 100, 100–101figs.; location, 100; name change, 102; settlement of, 95

  Karakorum, 182, 183, 200

  Kara-Kyrgyz, 33

  Karimov, Islam, 35, 120, 137, 280

  Karlag (labor camp system), 218–22, 225, 235

  Karpov, Sergey, 128–30, 145, 300

  Kashagan (oil field), 268, 270

  Kashgar, 20, 250

  Kazakh National University (Almaty), 170–71

  Kazakh SSR, 33, 152, 162, 175, 188, 221, 228, 229, 266

  Kazakhstan, xiii, 1, 4, 5, 7, 8, 19, 93, 131; agriculture, 161, 167–69, 260, 262–65; autonomous region, 146; comparison with other Central Asia countries, 277; economy, 134, 148, 158–59, 173, 188, 230–31, 276; environment, 222–25, 230–31; ethnic mix, 34–35, 147–49; as Eurasia, 135, 183, 200, 206; geography, 132; higher education, 172–73, 206, 261; human rights, 134, 274; international image, 136–37, 183, 184, 186, 205; language, 151–52, 153, 154–57, 206; map, 132; media, 139, 155–57, 274–75; migration, 148–49, 220, 229–30, 268, 271, 281; mineral resources, 150, 188, 225, 230, 242, 260, 270; oil, 188, 265–72, 281; move of capital, 183, 187–88; national identity, 146, 151–52, 153, 154, 155; Nazarbayev’s vision, 276, 282, 283; nuclear zone, 188, 222, 223, 233–45; perceptions of, 132, 133–34; population and demography, 133, 148–49; presidential elections, 136, 138–42, 207, 256, 276; press freedom, 134, 156–57, 275; quality of life, 134–35; religion, restrictions on, 201; settlement of, 143–44, 146; sports, 135, 197–98; transportation and communication, 133; wealth gap, 134, 282–83

  Kazakhstan Institute for Management, Entrepreneurship and Strategic Research (KIMEP), Almaty, 173–74

  KazMunayGaz (KMG), 136, 266, 268, 270, 272, 273

  Keiderling, Kelly, 74–75, 299

  Kerry, John, 4–5

  Khan Shatyr, 202, 203fig., 204, 288

  Khiva: city of, 120; khanate of, 28, 30, 45, 265

  Khokand: city of, 121; khanate of, 30, 31, 44, 146, 162

  Khonin, Gennadiy, 175, 177, 178, 178fig.

  Khrushchev, Nikita, 46, 148, 167, 188, 189, 226, 260

  khrushchevka (apartment), 46–47, 108, 163

  Khudaiberdiev, Khalijan, 92–93

  Khusainov, Renat, 24, 103, 300

  kinship and family ties, 18, 23, 60–61, 67, 154, 257

  Kipling, Rudyard, 30

  Kirol, Paul, 179

  Kist, Viktor, 177

  Klimemko, Olesja, 179

  Koch, Natalie, on perceptions and depiction of Astana, 184–86, 201, 204

  Kolbin, Gennadiy, 152, 163

  kolkhoz, 110, 147, 168, 221, 226, 227, 263

  komuz, 5, 52fig., 77

  Kopack, Robert, 233–34, 239, 241–42

  Koreans, deportation of, 33, 147–48,

  Kostanai (Qostanay), city of, 188; history of, 260; location, 259–60; population, 260

  Kostanai oblast, 259, 261, 262; climate, 263–64; mineral deposits, 260; wheat production, 262–64

  Kostanai State University, 260–61

  Kozlov, Vladimir, 155, 273, 274, 279

  Kulibayev, Timur, 273, 275, 283

  Kumtor (gold mine), 97–98

  Kunayev, Dinmukhamed, 152

  Kungey Ala Too (mountain range), 17, 94

  Kurchatov, Igor Vasilyevich, 235; nuclear test facility, 235, 236, 238, 246

  Kurmanjan Dakta: street name, 20, 24, 26; tribal chief, 26, 31

  Kyrgyz Ala Too (mountain range), 15, 17, 104, 107

  Kyrgyz ASSR, 15, 33

  Kyrgyz SSR, 21, 33, 36

  Kyrgyzstan, xiii, 1–3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 12, 41, 42, 43, 62, 69, 277; clans and social organization, 18, 23; climate, 18, 60, 95; economy, 21, 22, 36–38, 49–51, 58, 73, 91; environment, 97; ethnic conflict, 16, 21–22, 91–92, 93; ethnic mix, 21–22; geography and topography, 17–19, 94–95; gold mining, 97–98; history, 15–16, 45; infrastructure, 18; language, 77; map, 18; media, 19, 22, 69, 70, 76–83, 89–90, 92–93; nationalism, 21–22, 92–93; natural resources, 17; north-south divide, 18–19, 89; politics and elections, 65, 89, 93; population and demography, 18, 21; Tulip Revolution, 88; 2010 revolution, 90–92

  Kyrgyzstan Chronicle, 54

  Kyrgyz State National University (KSNU), 63, 64, 65; journalism faculty, 63–75, 118

  Kyrgyz State Radio and Television Company (KRT), 76–77, 79, 90

  Kyzlorda, 133, 162

  labor camps, 148, 176, 177, 213, 218–22

  language, xiii, 77; English, 205–7; Kazakh, 151–52, 153, 154–57, 206, 251–52; Kazakh alphabet, 157, 252, 260; Kyrgyz, 77; and spelling choices, xiii, 157

  Lenin, 36; as statue and symbol, 14–17, 46, 171, 171fig.; as street name, 15, 26

  libel, as criminal offense (Kyrgyzstan), 83–85

  Litke, Maria, 219–20, 220fig.,

  Lodi, Sultan Ibrahim, 28

  Lonely Planet Guide to Central Asia, 20, 42, 45, 120, 127, 213, 215

  Lutherans, 177–78

  Mackinder, Sir Halford, 9, 11, 29, 281

  Makanbayev, Turat, 78, 299

  Malloy, Eileen, 49, 58–59

  Manas (Kyrgyz epic poem), 250, 285, 288

  Manas air base, 87–89, 281

  Manas airport, Bishkek, 86, 87

  Mangystau oblast: migration to, 271; mineral deposits, 270; oil fields, 270, 272

  maps, mental, 6–7; as history and ideology, 12, 132–34, 135

  marshrutka, 26, 48–49, 120

  Maryland, state of, 1–3

  Masimov, Karim, 224, 261

  Matayev, Seytkazy, 275

  Medeo winter sports complex (Almaty), 163

  Medvedev, Dmitry, 89

  Merrill, Martha, 64, 65, 300–301

  Metzger, USAF Major Jill, 88

  Meyer, Karl E., 6, 28–29, 96, 279, 280

  Meyerowitz, Rick, 9

  migration, 148–49, 220, 229–30, 268, 271, 281; and social tensions, 271

  military installations, 96, 106, 222

  Mikhailovka: district (Karaganda), 215; inlet (Issyk Kul), 96

  Mittal, Lakshmi, 230

  Moghul dynasty, 27–28

  Mongol empire, 182–83

  Mongolia, 8, 128, 195, 230, 246

  Moore, Rowan, 181, 182

  Morrison, Alexander, 30

  Mould, Richard, 113, 118, 119, 121, 124

  Musabayev, Talgat, 223, 224

  Myrzakhmetov, Melisbek, 92–93

  Nametov, Askar, 261

  name changes: cities and towns, 45, 102, 265–66, 275, 284; streets, 15, 25, 46, 142, 143–44, 284

  Naryn (river), 107

  Nasha Gazyeta (Kostanai), 261–62

  nationalism and national identity, 11, 21–22, 32–35, 92–93, 146, 151, 155, 188, 283–84

  nationalities, construction of, 32–34

  National Nuclear Center (NNC), Kazakhstan, 235, 242, 243, 244

  Nazarbayev, Nursultan, 4, 93, 135, 137, 139, 142, 154, 155, 157, 173, 180, 201, 221, 224, 261, 265; cult and legacy, 199–200, 276–77; education, 226–27; and nuclear program, 237, 243; political career, 152, 163, 227, 229; popular appeal of, 227, 229, 256; and president-for-life campaign,
139–40; representation of, 199–200, 231, 256, 277; as steel worker, 227–28; succession, 276, 277, 284; vision for Kazakhstan, 276, 282, 284; and Zhanaozen, 273, 274

  Nazarbayeva, Sara, 148, 229

  Nazarbayev University (Astana), 134, 182, 204–5

  Nazarov, Guryev, 265

  Nevada-Semipalatinsk Movement, 237

  “New Yorkistan,” 9, 10fig.

  Niyazov, Sapamurat, 277

  nuclear: abandonment, 237, 271; environmental impact, 237, 238–39, 243–45; and food chain, 240–41, 242; impact on health, 236, 237, 240–41, 256; medical research, 240–41; missiles, 188, 237–38; Nevada-Semipalatinsk Movement, 237; Soviet testing program, 235–36, 246

  Nugmanov, Almabek, 264

  Nura (river), 225, 231

  Nur Astana Mosque, 182, 202

  Nur Otan (political party), 139, 140

  oil and gas: Caspian Sea oil fields, 266–68 (map, 267); exploration and production, 265, 266–68; environmental and health impacts, 266; Mangystau oil fields, 270, 272; pipeline, Kazakhstan-China, 268, 281

  Omashev, Namasaly, 192, 208

  Omsk, 248, 250, 260

  Omurzakov, Ryspek, 83–84, 85

  oralmans, 149, 230, 268, 271

  Ordabasy, 143

  Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE), 89, 135, 141–42, 269, 279

  Osh, 2–3, 13, 14, 16–17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 27, 35, 40, 103, 107, 113, 121, 123; 1990 ethnic clashes, 21–22; 2010 ethnic clashes, 91–92; history of, 20–22, 33–34; population, 20–21; travel in, 25–27

  Osh bazaar (Bishkek), 39–40, 47, 48, 50–51, 52–53figs., 87

  Osh Harvest Festival, 103, 109–13, 111–12figs.

  Osh Media Resource Center, 19, 22–24, 40, 103

  Osh TV, 78, 92–93

  overland journeys: Astana to Karaganda, 211–12; Astana to Kostanai, 258–59; Bishkek to Karakol, 98–99 (map, 99); Bishkek to Osh, 102–8 (map, 105); Osh to Samarkand and Bukhara, 119–23

  OVIR, 121, 126

  Oyrats, 143, 246

  Palace of Peace and Accord (Astana), 200–201, 200fig., 206

  Pamir Alay (mountain range), 14, 17, 20, 35, 107

  Panarin, Igor, 165,

  Paryshkura, Mikhail, 83

  Pasha, Enver, 32, 149

  Pavlodar, 223, 238

  Pavlyuk, Gennadiy, 90

  Pearman, Hugh, 200–201

  perestroika, 21, 36, 115, 152, 175, 176, 237

  Petrushka, Irina, 286

  Peytchev, Aleksandr, 268–69

  Piramida TV (Bishkek), 78–80, 82, 86

  Pishpek (Bishkek), 31, 45, 96

  plague, bubonic, 95

  Polo, Marco, 181, 182, 287

  Polygon nuclear testing zone, 188, 222, 223, 233–45, 255; environment, 237, 238–39, 243–45; and food chain, 240–41, 242; health, 236, 237, 240–41, 256; history and society, 234–35; livestock raising in, 235, 242–43, 244; map, 236; mining in, 235, 242; suspicion of researchers, 241–42

  privatization, 96–97, 110–11, 168

  Proton rocket, 223, 224, 225

  Przhevalsky, Nikolai Mikhailovich, 95–96, 102

  Pushkin, Aleksandr, 61, 68, 164

  Pushkin (our cat), 61–62, 87

  Qasimov, Kenisary, 145–46

  Qudayberdiuli, Shakarim, 154, 252, 254

  Qunanbayev, Abai, 154, 234, 251–52, 255, 285

  railroads: Astana to Karaganda, 211–12; Astana to Kostanai, 258–59; impact of, 146, 162

  Rashid, Ahmed, 34, 282

  Razzakov, Ishak, 47

  recycling, 53fig., 54–55

  Reeves, Madeleine, 33–34, 91, 93

  Res Publika newspaper (Kyrgyzstan), 83

  Respublika newspaper (Kazakhstan), 286–87

  Revolution, Bolshevik, 9, 32, 146

  Revolution, Tulip (Kyrgyzstan, 2005), 88

  revolution (Kyrgyzstan 2010), 90–92

  Rice, Condoleezza, 5

  Riel, Aleksandr, 178, 178fig.

  Rosengren, Bob, 114, 116, 117

  Rosengren, Jane, 114, 116, 117, 118, 121, 122

  Russia, 5, 15, 19, 38, 77, 88, 133; conquest of Central Asia, 20–21, 28–32 (map, 30), 44–45, 143–46; frontier, impact of, 28, 31, 146; motives for expansion, 28–29; 1916 rebellion in Central Asia, 31–32, 98; policy and interests in Central Asia, 281; role in 2010 revolution, 90; television coverage of Central Asia, 78; trade routes, 246, 265

  Sabitov, Zhas, 140, 283, 300

  Samarkand, 31, 33, 120, 122–23

  Sammons, Elizabeth, 186, 301

  samogon, 39, 55

  Samruk (Kazakhstan sovereign wealth fund), 136, 199, 273, 275

  Sapargaly, Serik, 274

  Semey State University, 252, 253–54

  Semipalatinsk (Semey), 146, 162, 198, 219, 238, 250, 251; climate, 253; in Dostoyevsky’s work, 248; history of, 245–46; location, 245, 246; Polygon nuclear testing program, 235, 236, 245, 246

  Semireche (Russian province), 31, 250

  Seydkhamet, Quttyqadam, 187

  Seyfullin, Sahen, 151, 154

  Shanghai Cooperation Organisation, 135, 281

  Sheremetyevo airport (Moscow), 43

  shirdak, 111, 288, 53fig.

  Shumkina, Galina, 54–55, 62, 300

  Shymbulak ski resort (near Almaty), 164

  Shymkent, 31, 133, 143, 156, 173, 188

  Silk Road, 13, 20, 44, 95, 120, 161

  Silverstein, Ken, 137

  Simanenko, Viktor, 262–63, 263fig., 264, 265

  Solzhenitsyn, Aleksandr, 219

  Soviet Union, Civil War, 9, 31–32, 45, 98, 146, 176, 246; collapse of, 7, 11, 13, 34, 50, 230; collectivization, 147; economy and industry, 36, 38–39, 50, 128, 148; media, 36, 76; nuclear program, 235–37; Virgin Lands program, 148, 188–89

  space program, 222–25; environmental impact of, 224–25; recycling, 225

  Spassk (labor camp), 218

  sports, traditional, 109–10, 111–12figs., 113; and Kazakhstan, 135, 197–98

  Stalin, 45, 219, 220, 286; and deportations, 33, 147–48, 218, 219, 221; and gerrymandering and ethnic mix, 32–35

  stalinka (apartment), 46

  Stan, as suffix, 7, 8–9

  Starr, S. Frederick, 137

  Stawkowski, Magda, 233–35, 239–42, 245, 301

  steppe (Kazakhstan), 167, 168, 211, 234; climate and ecosystem of, 189, 262–63

  Stoddart, Colonel Charles, 29, 123

  street names, Bishkek, 15, 45; Almaty, 142–44; Osh, 26

  subbotnik, 66, 228

  Sufism, 149

  Sughd oblast (Tajikistan), 35

  Suleiman’s Mountain (Osh), 27–28

  Suleimenov, Olzhas, 237

  Suleimenova, Galiya, 186, 300

  Suusamyr Too (mountain range), 107

  Sverdlov, Yakov, 26

  Sydykov, Yerlan, 253, 254, 255, 256; and president-for-life campaign, 139–40, 256

  Syr Darya (river), 20, 107, 109, 143, 285

  Tabaldiev, Kuban, 19, 20, 22

  Tajik SSR, 33, 122, 129

  Tajikistan, xiii, 6, 7, 8, 35, 122, 123, 125, 128, 129, 277

  Talas, 90

  Talas Ala Too (mountain range), 104

  Tamurlane (Timur), 27, 34, 122, 285

  Tanner, Nic, 91–92

  Taraz (Zhambyl), 31, 133

  Tashkent, 31, 32, 45, 120, 121, 146, 161, 162, 285

  taxis, 26–27, 44

  teaching, university, 63–64, 66–68, 169–71, 172, 207–10

  Tekebayev, Omurbek, 85

  telephone system, 25–26, 56–57

  Temirtau, 225–31, 226fig.; environment, 231; history of, 225–26; revival of industry, 230–31; steel plant, 225–26, 227–29

  Tengiz (oil field), 266–67, 268

  Thubron, Colin, 6

  Tian Shan, 44; glaciers, 165, 166; trek in, 113–18

  Tobol (river), 262

  Toktogul, 94, 103, 107

  Toktomushev, Sovietbek, 64, 71–72, 73

  Tolchok bazaar (Bishkek), 50
r />   Tor-Ashuu (mountain pass), 104, 106

  tourism, 17, 96–97, 114–15, 118, 120, 127, 270–71

  Trans-Siberian Railway, 162

  Trebek, Alex, 131

  Trudarmiya (labor army), 148, 175, 178, 218–19

  Tsvetkov, Andrey, 78–80, 300

  Turkestan (Greater), 8, 32, 281

  Turkestan ASSR, 162

  Turkey, 5; policy and interests in Central Asia, 281

  Turkmen SSR, 33

  Turkmenistan, xiii, 7, 8, 34, 35, 120, 277

  Turksib (Turkestan-Siberia Railway), 162, 245; Almaty district, 162, 177

  Turner, Frederick Jackson, 31

  Tyup, 115

  Uighurs, 8, 281

  Ukraine, 133, 188, 222, 22

  Ullughbek, 122–23

  United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), 111, 168

  United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO), 19, 23, 24, 28, 69, 70, 158, 165, 300

  United States: forecast of collapse, 165; government shutdowns (1996), 41–42; policy in Central Asia, 278–80, 281

  United States Agency for International Development (USAID), 58, 82, 111, 161, 278–79

  United States Embassy, Bishkek, 49, 160; Astana, 190–91, 195, 210

  United States Information Service (USIS), 19, 23, 40, 47, 86, 299

  Ural (river), 135, 265, 266

  Uralsk, 133, 188, 246, 266

  Ust-Kamenogorsk, 188, 237, 246

  Uzbek SSR, 21, 33, 122

  Uzbekistan, xiii, 5, 7, 8, 19, 35, 42, 107, 157, 230; human rights, 280; travel in, 120–23; US aid to, 279–80

  Uzen (oil field), 272

  Uzgen, 21

  Valikhanov, Chokan, 250–51, 253

  Vecherniy (Evening) Bishkek, 84–85

  Velska, Irina, 169, 170, 193, 206–7, 215, 225, 231, 232, 300

  Virgin Lands program, 148, 167, 188–89, 260, 263

  Virtanen, Tarja, 158, 300

  Volga Germans, 50, 175–76; deportation of, 33, 148, 175–76, 218–19

  Weidergeburt (Rebirth) Association, 175, 179, 219

  wheat, in Kazakhstan, 148, 167, 188–89, 260, 262–64

  Wilhelm, Hubert, xiii, 287, 288

  William of Rubruck, 182–83

  Witt, Daniel, 141–42

  workshops and training, 165–66, 170, 192, 269

  World War I, rebellion in Central Asia, 31–32, 98

  Wrangel, Baron Aleksandr, 248, 249

  Xinjiang, 8, 17, 268, 281

  Yeleusizov, Melis, 138–39, 138fig.

  Yeltsin, Boris, 34, 69, 176, 177

 

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