by Sheri Speede
Dedication
This book is written in loving memory of
Sara Katherine and Lena Pearl.
And it is dedicated to the volunteers: You brought your open hearts and enthusiasm from Australia, Brazil, Cameroon, Canada, England, Finland, France, Holland, Hungary, Ireland, Israel, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United States. You survived pit latrines, cold baths, couscous, cockroaches, long exhausting workdays with far too little rest, and candlelit nights for months on end. Sanaga-Yong Chimpanzee Rescue Center was built on your backs. Only a few of you are mentioned by name in the following pages, but with deep gratitude and respect, I dedicate this book to all of you.
Contents
Dedication
Introduction
One: Road to Cameroon
Two: Commitment
Three: At the Atlantic Beach Hotel
Four: Mean Streets
Five: The Mbargue Forest
Six: Shackled
Seven: The Village
Eight: Nothing Works, but It All Works Out
Nine: Forced Seizure
Ten: Who’s the Boss?
Eleven: Fateful Alliances
Twelve: Challenges on My Side of the Fence
Thirteen: Pregnancy and Motherhood
Fourteen: Dorothy Finds Her Strength
Fifteen: The Unspeakable
Sixteen: Heroes
Seventeen: Necessary Trade-Offs
Eighteen: Farewell to Our Sassy Girl
Nineteen: Dorothy’s Legacy
Epilogue
Acknowledgments
Index
Photographic Insert 1
Photographic Insert 2
About the Author
Copyright
About the Publisher
Introduction
On September 24, 2008, beloved elder chimpanzee Dorothy lay down on the grass at the edge of the forest in a somewhat obscure African sanctuary and died. About five decades earlier, when Dorothy was an infant, poachers supplying the illegal ape meat trade killed her mother and took her captive. She spent most of her sad life chained by her neck as a hotel tourist attraction, but she died among friends who loved her at Sanaga-Yong Chimpanzee Rescue Center in Cameroon’s Mbargue Forest.
The morning after Dorothy’s death we conducted a small funeral service for volunteers, our African staff, and people from the village community who came to pay their respects. Afterward, Dorothy’s longtime caregiver, Assou Francois, pushed her body in a creaky wheelbarrow toward her gravesite, which had been prepared beside the twenty-acre forested enclosure where she had lived. With a small procession of staff and volunteers, I followed behind. As we neared the enclosure, the twenty-five chimpanzees who had lived with Dorothy heard the wheelbarrow and came out of the forest. As they lined up at the fence line, straining to see her body, I instructed Assou to pull the wheelbarrow close to the fence and stop. As I caressed Dorothy’s head, and the chimpanzees she loved best gazed at her a final time in silent grief, volunteer Monica Szczupider snapped a photo.
After we buried Dorothy, I saw Monica’s picture and hardly gave it a second thought, but this snapshot of emotion soon would be seen around the world. After Monica won a National Geographic photo contest and the magazine published the funeral photo in a glossy double-page spread, numerous other magazines and newspapers also published it. Several journalists interviewed me about it. Invariably, they asked me if I had been surprised by the chimpanzees’ reactions to Dorothy’s death.
“No, I wasn’t surprised in the slightest,” I always answered honestly.
After working closely with chimpanzees for years, I took for granted their capacity for a broad range of deep emotions. I had always been deeply sympathetic to the suffering of animals; their particular vulnerability and innocence awakened the compassionate defender in me, enough so that I had dedicated my career to it even before coming to Africa. But my direct experience with captive adult chimpanzees was something different. They were so much more similar to me than either of us was to any other animal. In these chimpanzees I recognized another kind of people, like me in many ways, unlike me in others. They were also animals, they were also apes, and so was I an animal and an ape. In the face of the chimpanzees’ profoundly familiar ape consciousness and in the genuine friendships that grew between us, I became a more fully realized human animal. I knew chimpanzees to be charismatic and complicated. Not all were always nice. I had seen callous cruelty in their hierarchical societies, and I also had seen kindness and compassion. As the founder and director of this African sanctuary, I was equally committed to every single chimpanzee who lived here, but I cannot say I liked them all equally. Dorothy was kind. I admired her, I loved her, and I knew the chimpanzees loved her too.
Because I knew Dorothy and for years had observed her role in her chimpanzee society, I wasn’t surprised by the chimpanzees’ grief over her death. The human reaction to Monica’s photo was a different matter; it did surprise me. Although we share more than 98 percent of our DNA with chimpanzees, and this genetic similarity had become common knowledge, often cited by popular media, I knew that few human people could really comprehend the intelligence and emotional complexity of chimpanzees any more than I had understood it before I worked with them. That this photo showing a simple expression of grief drew such intense interest around the world told me that many of my kind might have opened their hearts to a real understanding that among us animals there is an evolutionary continuum. My initial inspiration to write this book sprang from the world’s reaction to the photo of Dorothy’s funeral procession. My memory of her life was a compelling inspiration throughout it.
Chimpanzees are still killed for meat, taken captive as pets, and cruelly exploited in biomedical and entertainment industries. The stories of Dorothy and her circle of friends and family need to be told and understood. I tell the stories as honestly as I can, not as an unbiased scientist, but more as a loving ambassador who has attempted to understand them. My personal story, while certainly not as important, is inextricably linked to theirs.
One
Road to Cameroon
I was born to a blue-collar family in Jackson, Mississippi, the heart of social conservatism, racial segregation as a matter of right and wrong, and the Baptist Bible Belt. My mother was a very smart and loving woman who appreciated beauty in nature as much as anyone I’ve ever known. She had a great sense of humor, but also an underlying sadness that affected her, and her family, throughout her life. Perhaps it was her suffering that also gave rise to her sweet sensitivity for the world’s vulnerable and downtrodden, which seemed out of place in the 1960s and 1970s South. My father was a firefighter who anticipated every hunting season with the excitement of a child’s countdown to Christmas. Although he brought home the meat of the wild animals he killed many times, I remember him bringing home a whole deer to clean in our backyard only once, when I was quite young. Standing at our back door in my pajamas one winter evening, I watched Daddy, blue eyes twinkling, proud and triumphant, standing over the body of that beautiful buck as he lifted the head by a long antler to facilitate my full appreciation. I took one look at the pretty face and the glazed, lifeless brown eyes and ran to my room sobbing. I would never be a hunter, and as it turned out, my younger brother never took to it very enthusiastically either. I suppose we were a disappointment, but my father tried to make the best of it. He took my mother, my younger brother, and me camping every summer on the Pearl River’s sandbars, where we swam, water-skied, built bonfires, and fished. For the sake of parental tolerance and my love of fried fish and hush puppies, I managed to mostly sublimate my tender feelings for fish. We went weeks without baths or telephones while my father’s beard
seemed to grow longer with every Miller Lite. This was his element, where I thought he was the most competent person in the world. The older I got, the less I liked these escapes from modernity, but they taught me skills and a tolerance for uncomfortable living conditions that would one day be valuable in my travels through rural Africa. Nothing about the outdoors frightened me.
I went to college at Louisiana State University (LSU) in Baton Rouge, three hours from my Mississippi home. During my freshman year on campus, I met an instructor of a Korean martial art called tae kwon do and soon became his student at the school he operated with a partner. Training at the school of these skilled and dedicated teachers awakened the athlete in me. I took my training seriously, and while I was still in college I earned my first-degree black belt; years later I earned my second-degree. Tae kwon do gave me something more than physical fitness and self-defense skills. It taught me to act in the face of fear, including my fear of failure.
Throughout my undergraduate years at LSU, I worked as a waitress to help pay my bills. For a while I made decent tips in country-and-western bars during those urban cowboy days when mechanical bulls became a part of nightlife culture in Louisiana. My parents were delighted when I was accepted into the LSU School of Veterinary Medicine, but it would mean four years of economic hardship for them, as I wasn’t able to work much in the face of the rigorous academic program. They struggled to see me through it.
During my first year of veterinary school, I witnessed my “mentors” cruelly dehorning cows and castrating baby pigs, both without anesthesia, as was standard practice in the agriculture industry. Soon afterward, I swore off eating mammals forever. I wouldn’t play a part in that kind of animal suffering, even as a consumer. A few years later I decided that chickens and fish were safe from me, too, thereby coming to my vegetarianism gradually.
As a young veterinarian I was restless for change and adventure, enough so that I was willing to move with my dogs and cats and few possessions to new places and endure the loneliness of being a stranger to everyone. I’m not sure what I was looking for exactly, maybe just a place where I could really feel at home. I moved from Louisiana to my first job just outside of Nashville, Tennessee, then to a clinic in Santa Fe, New Mexico, and finally landed in a bigger veterinary hospital in Portland, Oregon, where I settled down, or so I thought. I worked very hard proving my worth, and after only a year, the two owners of Pacific Veterinary Hospital offered to finance my buy-in to the practice. I became a one-third owner, making my parents very proud. For a few years I was content saving animal lives and interacting with the humans who loved them. The people who stood before me seeking help for their beloved pets were motivated, at least during the time they were with me, by what was best in them—their love and concern for someone vulnerable who depended on them, someone they chose to care about. After a few years, though, I got thirsty for challenge, for some adrenaline in my life, and I just felt I should be doing something different. Against the advice of my parents and other cooler heads, I sold my interest in the veterinary practice to take a lower-paying job with In Defense of Animals (IDA), a nonprofit animal advocacy organization based in Mill Valley, California. I opened its new Northwest office in Portland and became the first Northwest director.
“I want to use my credibility as a veterinarian to advocate for animals in a bigger way,” I said to anyone who asked. Making a decent living—maximizing my earning potential—seemed by comparison a trivial goal.
During my first three years with IDA, I benefited from the mentorship and friendship of its founder and director, Dr. Elliot Katz, who was also a veterinarian. I called him frequently for advice, and he was usually a willing sounding board for my ideas. On behalf of the organization, I filed two successful public records lawsuits to get information about biomedical experiments on monkeys, and I led an effort that ended the sale of dogs and cats from an Oregon animal shelter for biomedical research. In addition and perhaps most consequentially in the long run, as a representative of IDA I was able to provide veterinary care to animals in sanctuaries, eventually including primates in Cameroon, Africa.
I met Peter Jenkins and Liza Gadsby, native Oregonians who had cofounded the conservation organization Pandrillus for drill monkeys and chimpanzees in Nigeria and had recently begun a partnership with the government in neighboring Cameroon to convert the dilapidated Limbe Zoo into the Limbe Wildlife Center (LWC). This zoo-turned-wildlife-center, in the pretty but impoverished coastal town of Limbe, served to educate visitors about the endangered status of wildlife while it acted as a primate sanctuary, receiving and caring for orphaned chimpanzees, gorillas, and monkeys. Stretched thin by their bigger project in Nigeria, Peter and Liza needed veterinary supplies and skill in Cameroon, and I was eager to help them. The exoticism of the location and the opportunity to work with chimpanzees and gorillas held a huge attraction for me.
In January 1997, sponsored in part by Dr. Shirley McGreal and her renowned International Primate Protection League and accompanied by Kathy Pearson, a technician from my old veterinary clinic, I spent one month in Cameroon providing veterinary care at LWC, mostly to young chimpanzees, gorillas, and monkeys who had been orphaned by hunters who’d killed their mothers for the meat trade.
Kathy and I landed at the airport in the city of Douala late one afternoon. We descended from the plane along a steep portable metal staircase at the edge of the runway and walked across the tarmac to the interior of the airport. The sun was bright and the air humid, hot, and familiar. While the ambient temperature and air quality were dramatically different from those of Oregon in January, it felt like going home to Mississippi. A long-term LWC volunteer named Lolly, a native of Britain in her late twenties, met us inside the airport. As we were all leaving the baggage area, hordes of aggressive porters bore down on us from every direction, speaking at us in French, all at the same time. When one tried to pry the handle of my roll-on suitcase out of my hand, we engaged in a brief but intense tug-of-war until Lolly ended it by pointing to two other men in the crowd of needy faces. They were the ones we would hire, and it was fair play I supposed, because all the men who weren’t chosen fell silent and unceremoniously dispersed to find work elsewhere. When we reached the old Land Rover that Lolly would drive to Limbe, there was a dispute about the amount she would pay the porters. I couldn’t follow it, but there was boisterous discussion before it was finally resolved.
As we rolled along at a snail’s pace through the crowded rush-hour streets of Douala, the strange and lively scenes outside our windows absorbed Kathy and me. I was glued to the front-seat window and she to the back, hardly speaking during the trip. Vehicles on the roadway included a few packed minibuses, which I later learned to call bush taxis, a few private cars like our Land Rover, and some motorcycles, but mostly small yellow car taxis filled the road as far as I could see, more Toyotas than anything else. They all pushed forward competitively and managed to create four packed lanes on a roadway built for two. The beeping of their horns created a continual din that puzzled me at first, until I realized that the horns were positioning signals, a necessary part of the driving dance. It was how they managed to keep from hitting each other more often than they did, but judging from the scratches on the sides of all the cars, they hit each other plenty. In addition to the countless crawling cars, pedestrians also claimed the streets. Streams of dark-skinned African people, moving faster than the cars, traveled along the sides of the roadway or squeezed between the packed cars to cross it. A little boy and girl, neither older than ten, held their palms out toward us as they crossed in front of us and navigated the maze of cars to arrive on the other side of the road. How could they be on the streets alone? I wondered silently. Set back a yard or two from the road at various places, women sat on low stools grilling some kind of food on small barbecue pits, and people stopped to buy it. A waitress served huge bottles of beer to customers sitting at open-air tables in front of a wooden building with cracking white paint. From just inside the
doors of this bar, large speakers blasted customers and commuters alike with extremely loud African music. A minute later, Dolly Parton took over the speakers with an equally loud and somewhat crackly rendition of “I Will Always Love You.” A variety of pungent smells came and went along our route, creeping into the invisible fog of car exhaust. Only a few yards from the road, I saw a huge undulating pile of stinking garbage, several yards wide and five feet high in places. A number of thin dogs scrounged around its periphery.
After we broke free from the traffic jam near the outskirts of Douala, military police stopped our Land Rover to ask for Lolly’s driving permit, the papers for the car, and each of our passports. Lolly stared silently ahead as she handed documents out the window. I would learn that checkpoints such as this one dot the roadways of Cameroon, manned by officers ostensibly looking for bandits, and certainly looking for bribes. But on this first night I experienced no sense of the intrusion, and when one grim-faced officer looked from my passport photo to my face, I smiled broadly and gave him a little wave. Caught off guard, he smiled back as he returned my passport. And off we went careening down the darkening road toward Limbe.
Kathy and I stayed in the Miramar Hotel, located in Limbe’s beautiful botanical garden on a low cliff right above the rocky Atlantic coast. Our hotel room was in a row of picturesque royal blue and white cottages, nestled upon a bed of lush green manicured grass, accented here and there with bright tropical flowers. It had two single beds and an oscillating floor fan. On the bathroom wall hung a hot water heater, but it didn’t work, and the clerk told us that at the moment none of the other rooms had hot water either. Taking cold showers was the one hardship I couldn’t bear without complaint. Each morning we started our day with coffee and bread in the hotel’s open-air restaurant, facing the ocean. The wood-paneled restaurant had walls on only two sides, so we had a beautiful panoramic view of the blue-gray sea, the birds gliding gracefully above it and the few fishermen moving quietly in small wooden boats on its surface.