Science City at Union Station
30 W. Pershing Rd.
816-460-2000
www.unionstation.org
Nelson-Adkins Museum of Art
4525 Oak St.
816-751-1278
www.nelson-atkins.org
Negro Leagues Baseball Museum
1616 E. Eighteenth St.
816-221-1920
www.nlbm.com
Kansas City Art Institute
4415 Warwick Blvd.
800-522-5224
www.kcai.edu
Driving Diva Factoid: You will discover that I-70 is one of the straightest roads in the United States. There are probably others, but this one is long and straight. The bucolic scenery all around you looks like a Grandma Moses picture, full of flat farmed fields.
Humorous Sighting:
Atlasta Motel
17395 Hwy. 87, Boonville
660-882-5770
This hotel has twenty-five units.
Hermann
This place is unique, picturesque, inviting, caring, and special. How did I find out about Hermann? A public relations friend in Clayton told me if I was heading east from Kansas City, I should stop in Hermann. Promptly researching, I found the town and discovered that Hermann is Missouri’s B&B capital (with forty properties) and home to Stone Hill Winery. About three hours from Kansas City and an hour from St. Louis in the Missouri River valley, Hermann was founded by the German Settlement Society of Philadelphia in the early 1800s. Settlers thought they would find farmable land but instead discovered harsh ground. With true German tenacity and ingenuity, they planted grapes and developed vineyards that subsequently became very successful. Unfortunately, fate brought Prohibition, the Depression, and then a war that prompted hostile feelings toward the Germans. In spite of these adversities, Hermann remained an original, which was its saving grace. It is a picture-book community with rolling hills, original buildings, and church steeples accenting the landscape and sky.
Lydia Johnson Inn
204 Market St.
573-486-0110
www.lydiajohnsoninn.com
I spent my first night in Hermann at this inn. I was greeted by Betty Hartbauer. She and her husband, Chuck, are the innkeepers. Immediately I felt at home. My room was on the main floor. For more of the story, see below.
Stone Hill Winery
1110 Stone Hill Hwy.
800-909-9463 (WINE)
www.stonehillwinery.com
Anxious and curious, I headed for my scheduled visit to the winery. I followed the signs up a small hill pass with manicured grapevines and parked in the designated area. Little did I realize what I was going to experience. Fabulous would be an understatement. I was amazed by how many other people were also there. The parking lots were quite full. Without further adieu, here is the history of the winery, itself as special as the wine it produces.
Stone Hill Winery is truly a family operation. Established in 1847, it became the second-largest winery in the United States and, by the end of the nineteenth century, was shipping over 1 million gallons of wine per year. The underground arched cellars were the largest in America. Then, in the 1920s, Prohibition brought the winery to a screeching halt. The vaulted cellars were then used to grow mushrooms!
In 1965, Jim and Betty Held, with their four children in tow, bought Stone Hill and started the long and arduous process of restoring the winery. What a job they have done! Today, they produce more than two hundred thousand plus gallons of award-winning wine on their 182 acres with the help of their state-of-the-art equipment.
Two of the Held children are on board—all hold degrees in enology and viticulture (the sciences of wine making and grape growing.) Also on board is one of the country’s best winemakers, Dave Johnson.
In 1979, with the same care they use in producing wines, the Helds restored the winery’s former carriage house and horse barn, preserving as much of the original decor and ambiance as they could. They did a great job, and the Vintage Restaurant (573-486-3479) serves thousands of delighted guests, who order from a menu that includes many German specialties as well as steaks and fresh seafood. I was fortunate to have dinner here with Jim and Betty Held. I definitely give both the dinner and the unique setting accolades.
Be certain to plan a tour of the winery and see firsthand the arched cellars and production facilities, then, of course, stop in the wine-tasting room. Here you will readily see why the awards to the winery have been ongoing. There is also a very sensibly stocked gift shop.
Driving Diva Factoid: There are two other Stone Hill Winery locations in Missouri, one in New Florence at the junction of I-70 and Hwy. 19 and the other in Branson.
After a wonderful Stonehill evening, I returned to the Lydia Johnson Inn, driving through a totally quiet, peaceful town. I enjoyed a pleasant night in my cozy room. The next morning, since it was just me, I insisted on not breakfasting alone in the dining room but joined Betty in the kitchen. Breakfast was delicious. It was so much fun to talk with Betty as we sat at the kitchen table. I enjoyed her homemade Lydia’s Strawberry Custard Muffins and even received a copy of the recipe.
Wine Valley Inn
403 Market St.
573-486-0706
www.wine-valley-inn.com
A bit more “downtown” and also termed a bed-and-breakfast, Wine Valley is definitely more of an inn. It is in Hermann’s historic Begermann Building, and when I was there, it was operated by Gloria Birk and Pamela Gillig. They have retired. From the stories I heard, getting the inn to where it is today entailed many challenges. The eight beautiful suites are not fancy, just very nice. Every suite has a kitchenette, dining area, and television. Five come with a Jacuzzi-style tub. My accommodations were delightful, cozy, and creative. My one suggestion would be to have a door on the bathroom. Maybe there is one now. A full, complimentary breakfast is served every morning on the first floor. There is an elevator if needed. Make a reservation and enjoy.
Discover Hermann by walking around and stopping in the shops. What fun and what a friendly group of people! Some of the places I visited included the following, but there are many more, so walk, discover, and enjoy.
Stuff & Nonsense
114 E. Fourth St.
573-486-4444
Back Home Again
307 Schiller St.
573-486-0581
Antiques Unlimited
207 E. First St.
573-486-8860
Seasonal Treasures & Gifts
226 E. First St.
573-486-0803
St. Louis
St. Louis is a true hub city where several major interstates—I-70, I-55, I-44, and I-64—meet. I was surprised to discover how many other major cities in nearby states are truly just a stone’s throw from St. Louis. Check your map.
For my first visit to St. Louis, I had the hotel fax me specific directions, something everyone should consider when venturing into a city for the first time. (Their directions were excellent.)
St. Louis Union Station Marriott
1820 Market St.
314-621-5262
www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/stlus-st-louis-union-station-marriott
Built around St. Louis’s old rail station, the hotel uses as its lobby the famed Union Station Grand Hall. Inside and out, this old train station is magnificent. Built in 1894 and once deemed the largest and most beautiful terminal in the United States, it has been completely restored, from its barrel-vaulted ceiling with Romanesque arches to its stained glass windows and ornate moldings. So much happened at this station that a self-guided walking tour will bring much of this magnificent structure’s history alive. (Discover the secret of the Whispering Arch.) Also on-site are restaurants, specialty shops, marketplaces, stores,
and (unbelievably) a one-acre lake. Although the name has changed since I was first there, the bones and ambiance of this pleasant hotel are still most appealing.
How Things Were and How They Have Changed
Fred Harvey left England in 1850 and came to America at the age of fifteen. He held many jobs, one as postal clerk and agent for the Burlington Railroad. He traveled a great deal and was absolutely disgusted by what was served at restaurants in railroad stations. He hatched and soon implemented a brilliant idea. The Burlington Railroad didn’t subscribe to it but told him to contact the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe—the fastest growing railroad in the West.
In 1876, Fred Harvey took over the restaurant at the Santa Fe depot in Topeka, and history was made. His name would become synonymous with good food, clean restaurants, and an all-female staff soon called the “Harvey Girls.” To become a Harvey Girl, a woman had to have a high moral character, be between the ages of eighteen and twenty, attractive, and intelligent, and had to vow not to marry for a year after employment. A housemother chaperoned the girls and enforced their 10 p.m. curfew. MGM made a movie titled The Harvey Girls staring Judy Garland. Fred Harvey, thank you, even though only a few recognize your name and acclaim.
Gateway Arch
Do not leave St. Louis without visiting the Gateway Arch on the St. Louis riverfront. The story of its construction is fascinating. In order to get to the top of the arch, one must ride in a small, four-seat “compartment,” an experience not for the claustrophobic. There is also a museum with several displays pertaining to westward expansion.
Clayton
I had no idea what I was getting into. I had only read about Clayton in hotel brochures. After map studying, I decided this probably should be a stop. I had been to St. Louis and done the sights, so it was time to “discover” Clayton—a well-kept secret. Clayton is an upscale “suburb” with a business area. The streets are clean, the people are friendly, and during my stay, the weather was summer perfect.
Clayton on the Park
8025 Bonhomme Ave.
314-290-1500
Clayton on the Park was a state-of-the-art luxury hotel and residential property with the logo “Where Style and Comfort Collide.” I mention this property because is was outstanding in every way possible. It has been converted into a luxury retirement property. So be it . . .
An added perk to this first visit was the Jazz Festival (www.stlouis.com/festivals) in Shaw Park in Clayton.
Driving Diva Factoid: As St. Louis grew, Clayton developed. The area that became Clayton was derived from donated farmlands owned by two Virginians: Ralph Clayton and Martin Hanley.
Seven Gables Inn
26 N. Meramec Ave.
314-863-8400
www.sevengablesinn.com
This National Historic Landmark property has much potential. There is a blend of styles with nothing fancy or ostentatious. It is friendly and convenient to downtown Clayton. While staying there, I discovered that a lot of the staff has been there for years, and there is a definite family feeling. There are no elevators, so one must use the steps. They are obviously original but have now been carpeted, making the actual step tread narrow. I found it a bit hazardous; plus, the small design on the carpet can play tricks on the eyes.
There are thirty-two guest rooms, six of them on the main floor, providing easy access if required. My room was large and had the usual amenities. The bathroom was nice, and though the decor colors were dark, all was clean and the bed comfortable.
I tried (several times) to get firsthand updates but received no response. As of these edits, I learn that a lot has been redone, but I have no specifics. The Molly Darcy’s, a popular Irish Pub, is on the property. I felt comfortable with the parking arrangement. Valet service is available, and the parking area is just across the street.
Shopping Discoveries
The ScholarShop
8211 Clayton Rd.
314-725-3456
www.sfstl.org
Across from the St. Louis Galleria Mall (www.saintlouisgalleria.com), this sizeable shop specializes in “new and gently used designer and brand name clothing and accessories for the entire family—all at resale prices!” Proceeds support area students through the Scholarship Foundation of St. Louis (www.sfstl.org), “a non-profit organization that provides access to higher education to members of our community without financial resources.” I definitely arrived on the right day—just a little late. If I had only known!
Immediately, I knew this was my type of store, but little did I realize how much so. I walked in and was immediately handed a large brown grocery bag. My perplexed expression provoked the response, “Everything you can fit in the bag will be $25!” I smiled and quickly refrained from charging around like a bull in a china shop. Within a blink of an eye, my bag seemed half full. Suddenly someone came over and informed me that if I folded or rolled items tightly, I could fit more in the bag. Grateful for the tip, I was thrilled by how tightly I could suddenly roll items! I was in hog heaven!
Obviously this bag day is not a daily happening. It is also obvious that this is a professionally run shop. I can attest to the fact that it is organized and clean. The staff is most friendly, and I look forward to visiting this treasure shop again . . . even if I have to detour a bit.
Woman’s Exchange
9214 Clayton Rd.
314-997-4411
www.stlouiswomansexchange.com
A nonprofit organization created in 1934, the Woman’s Exchange today has venues throughout the United States. The goal is to create a market for items made by talented craftspeople. Through the sale of these incredibly beautiful articles, the artists are able to help support themselves in a productive manner.
This beautiful St. Louis Woman’s Exchange not only includes exquisite items for sale but has a fantastic tearoom. I had the salad bowl, a lemon square for dessert, and coffee—absolutely delicious. Had “space” permitted, I would have tried the Exchange’s signature yellow cake smothered with coconut butter frosting. I was given a taste, and it was outrageous. Since the tearoom is a charity organization, there is no tax. All the personnel were so friendly.
FYI: They also do carryout. It’s always good to know where you can get a takeaway meal that is not fast food.
About one hundred miles from Clayton I saw a sign for Nostalgiaville, USA.
Nostalgiaville, USA
Junction of I-70 and U.S. 54, Kingdom City
573-642-7955
www.nostalgiavilleusa.com
Wouldn’t you stop? Of course, and so did I. The business card reads:
Nostalgiaville USA
“Where Elvis, Marilyn & the Duke Hang Out”
Judi Dunwoody Gwynne LaRue Ron Dunwoody
Mayor City Manager Town Fool
Barbara Chaill and Helen Willingham
Phillis Dunwoody Sarah Dunwoody
Collectors of Revenue
Nostalgiaville USA is a collection of buildings that, from the outside, actually look like props from a movie set. The signs on the stores read “Goody’s Candy Store,” “Heartbreak Hotel,” “G. C. Dunwoody,” and “Mercantile.” The ad says, “Largest Selection of 50s, 60s, 70s Collectibles & Memorabilia.”
Inside you will find Elvis videos, 1950s fashions, photos, and items pertaining to Elvis, Marilyn Monroe, the Three Stooges, James Dean, The Dukes of Hazzard, Barney Fife (of The Andy Griffith Show), Betty Boop, and on and on. Looking for saddle shoes? Here they are.
Driving Diva Factoid: The Truck Stops of America are excellent places to stop. I feel safe, and they are generally friendly and clean. They usually carry state pins, which I collect, and miscellaneous car items of every variety can be found at these truck stops.
Iowa
I-80 West from Chicago was a little ro
ugh when I last I drove it—but perhaps by now the road has been repaired.
Davenport (Population Approximately 98,000)
Between the state line and Des Moines, there are plenty of places to stop for the night, but I favored the Hampton Inn in the sizable city of Davenport. This particular one has moved, but another Hampton Inn is just a very short distance away.
Hampton Inn
5290 Utica Ridge Rd.
563-441-0001
www.hamptoninn.com
I was just there for one night, but as I initially drove about in the late afternoon, I discovered interesting places within walking distance. After checking in and finding my room, I went out to investigate. The people were friendly, and the area was clean and inviting. I did not feel like a stranger. I enjoyed walking around, peeking into shops, then getting a sandwich and taking it back to my room.
FYI: The Mississippi (that big M really gets around!) traces Iowa’s east border, and Davenport is very close to the river. Riverboat gambling is just a mile away.
Walcott
Walcott boasts the world’s largest truck stop.
Iowa 80
755 W. Iowa 80 Rd. (I-80, Exit 284)
563-284-6961
www.iowa80truckstop.com
Iowa 80 Truck Stop: Largest in America—this is a must-stop. Aside from big trucks, lots of cars and colorful signs, you are greeted by a sign reading “Chapel Dentist Massage.” What a combo! When I stopped, I was not in need of these services, but the concept of the trio prompted me to seek out the marketing director, who told me that the three “offerings” are often required by long-haul truckers. She also provided me with the following Iowa 80 fun facts:
In thirty-six years of being in business, 12.5 million eggs have been served, 1.5 million cups of coffee are served per year, and over 55 million customers have been served. It has been a while since I was here, and I am sure the stats have increased.
Romancing the Roads Page 5