Texas Prison Museum
491 Hwy. 75 North
936-295-2155
www.txprisonmuseum.org
Huntsville also has the Sam Houston University and the HEARTS (Helping Every American Remember through Serving) Veterans Museum.
HEARTS Veterans Museum
463 Hwy. 75 North
936-295-5959
www.heartsmuseum.com
The great outdoors should not be overlooked with the state park and the Blue Lagoon, where artesian springs feed into an old rock quarry. You can even scuba dive. Before you leave, be sure to visit King’s Candies and Ice Cream.
King’s Candies and Ice Cream
1112 Eleventh St.
936-291-6988
At this old-fashioned ice-cream parlor and candy factory, you can get sandwiches, soups, and salads, as well as old-fashioned fountain delights. Oh yes! My kind of place.
El Paso
Driving Diva Sharing: The real reason I came to El Paso (besides that it was on the way) was that my friend, Nancy P., who was traveling with me for part of this odyssey, had not been to the city since her husband was stationed there during the war. More importantly, she told me that their first daughter had been born there. I knew it would mean a lot to her to see the area and the hospital. And it did.
Camino Real Hotel
101 S. El Paso St.
915-534-3024
www.caminoreal.com
Located in downtown El Paso, this hotel definitely has a Mexican feel. It was not hard to find, but check-in was only okay. I was expected, and my name was in the computer, but we just didn’t get a warm welcome. How could anyone not be happy and friendly in such an attractive property?
I was to be in El Paso only until noon the next day, so I decided to take a walk around the area. It was hot, the shops were closing for the day, and I did not really feel that comfortable.
In 1912, the Camino Real Hotel was an elegant gem in the center of El Paso—and it is still a gem. The lobby is attractive with the focal point being a very impressive Tiffany glass dome. The chandeliers are beautiful, as are the stained glass windows. I could quickly discern that a lot of planning and pennies went into the building of this property. The hotel seemed slightly incongruous to the area—like a diamond in the rough.
It has 359 large rooms and suites. The accommodations were nice and clean, and the general decor was attractive. The Dome dining room and bar was relaxed and beautiful. Jason, the server, was excellent, not only in his service but also in relating the history of the area and hotel. This type of hotel personnel is extremely valuable. The light fare (by choice) was delicious. The bread basket contained a mix of hot, home-baked rolls, one of which was a biscuit with a walnut crust. Butter and jalapeno cream cheese were served with the bread basket. You could easily make a meal of the breads. For breakfast, you could choose from a large Mexican buffet or order American fare.
Upon leaving, I realized that this hotel represents a definite meeting of the old and new worlds and of America and Mexico. The area east of downtown was under development, and there are at least two large malls. There is a lot to discover.
Driving Diva Mileage: I-10 East is a good interstate, but the drive to San Antonio is long and straight. In fact, it is over five hundred miles, with long stretches without a thing. Keep an eye on the gas gauge.
If you are hungry on the way to San Antonio, stop at Camp House BBQ in Ft. Stockton (population approximately 8,500).
Camp House BBQ
1216 N. Hwy. 285
432-336-9791
It was very good and not too greasy. I definitely recommend it.
The Ft. Stockton press states that it is “the Friendliest Town in Texas.” I discovered the following: The Texas Main Street Program helps revitalize historic downtowns, and it is one of the most successful in the nation. I read that Ft. Stockton has one thousand motel rooms, pecan orchards, a museum, Ste. Genevieve Wines (432-365-2417), an eighteen-hole golf course, a B&B, and RV sites. Interesting.
San Antonio
Arriving in San Antonio, I immediately felt joy and friendship. I think you will feel it too.
FYI: The street to remember as a landmark is Broadway.
Hotels
Menger Hotel
204 Alamo Plaza
210-223-4361
www.mengerhotel.com
It was not difficult to find the downtown area where the historic Menger is located, right across from the Alamo (www.thealamo.org). The advertisement reads, “On the Riverwalk.” I pictured it on the banks of a river. More on this very wrong assumption later!
There are lots of traditions and history at the Menger, as well as several culinary features, one being the mango ice cream, which has been on the menu for over a hundred years. The Colonial Room (the main dining room) was previously known for its wild game and exotic dishes, such as wild turkey stuffed with chestnuts, soft-shell turtle soup made from turtles caught in the San Antonio River, dried buffalo tongue, and potted antelope. Does this mean intoxicated antelope? Just joshing. These exotic choices are no more, but the more regular choices are excellent.
The oldest hotel in San Antonio, the Menger proves to be a history lesson of sorts for all who are on property. Check-in was friendly and efficient. It is a delightful historic hotel, and although I could see that fine tuning was needed, I knew I would have a most pleasant stay. Major domo Ernesto Malacara, who has been with the hotel for over twenty-eight years, proved to be an interesting and friendly guide, as well as a wealth of information about the hotel and the area. The Menger is convenient to many attractions.
Driving Diva Confession: It was early evening and time to discover the Riverwalk and areas around the Menger. There were lots of people and police in the area, so I felt safe. Remember that the ad says, “The Menger on the Riverwalk”? Well, I expected to see a river close by. I walked, and I looked and looked. No river. Finally, sheepishly, I asked a policeman, “Where is the river?” He replied with a smile, “You have to go downstairs,” and pointed to steps descending from the street. I smiled perplexedly, as I thought, Down the steps to the River? Descend I did, and, indeed, there you find another world. The “river” was perhaps more accurately described as an underground canal. Truthfully though, it is a river, or part of one, that surfaces on the grounds of the University of the Incarnate World. All along the river there are shops, restaurants, people, noise, lights, music, and gaiety. You won’t have a problem finding things to do but rather just deciding what you want to do. It is fun.
Menger history: In 1840 many German immigrants came to Texas. Two of them were Will Menger and Mary Baumschleuter, who married soon after arriving in Texas. Will Menger built his first beer brewery shortly afterward, and Will’s beer became very popular. Since so many people were enjoying too much of it, he decided a hotel was needed for the sleepy partiers. In 1857, Menger contracted for the construction of a hotel. In 1871, Menger died, and his good German wife continued to run the hotel for the next ten years. The Menger continues today and has become a true and significant San Antonio historic landmark.
The Menger Bar is a replica of the House of Lords Pub in London. It was in this bar that Teddy Roosevelt recruited some of his Rough Riders, or volunteers for the cavalry who fought during the Spanish-American War. The bar was carefully dismantled during Prohibition and finally reassembled in its present location.
Obtain the complimentary brochure for a self-guided tour. It is well done and explains the many attributes of the hotel, as well as its decorative arts.
This oldest continually operated hotel west of the Mississippi has ghosts. Ernesto Malacara, director of public relations, will relate stories from his experiences. These are not just about bumps in the night and flying objects but sightings of people without full bodies. Unfortunately, I did not e
xperience any apparitions, but the stories are fascinating. Here’s my favorite: Captain R. King, founder of the King Ranch, appears entering his room, the King Suite. He does not enter through the present door but through the wall where the door was when he had his suite. Many guests and employees have seen Captain King.
The Menger’s accommodations were pleasant but needed updating, which I hear, as of this writing, have been done. The hallways are long and of medium width. The walls are thick, as in all older construction; therefore sounds are muffled, and quiet prevails. The Menger is a place to stay or visit for sure.
Hotel Havana San Antonio Riverwalk
1015 Navarro St.
210-222-2008
www.havanasanantonio.com
Located at the northern end of the Riverwalk, this twenty-eight room (nonsmoking) property is upscale, whimsical, and bohemian, with absolutely beautiful antique decor. It was built in 1914, and there were many ups and downs in the beginning. In 1992, Theresa Greer, realizing its undeniable potentials, purchased the property and made it the unquestionable glowing gem that it is today. All is well appointed, eclectic, tasteful, modern, and unique. It is also romantic. The hotel is a state and national historic landmark and has received numerous well-deserved travel accolades.
After a tour of the Havana’s rooms and hallways, the next stop on the property was the patio overlooking the Riverwalk. Here, at OCHO Lounge, one can dine or just imbibe. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served as well as a late night fare. There are several different sitting areas, my favorite being where one can watch the river action and gaiety. In 2005 they received the Best New Restaurant award and in 2011 they were voted one of the fifty best small hotels in the world I can truly say that I did not spy a thing that was not perfection.
Shopping and Sightseeing
Market Square
514 W. Commerce St.
210-207-8600
www.marketsquaresa.com
Here, in this bustling area, is El Mercado (www.marketsquaresa.com), comprising thirty-two shops modeled after an authentic Mexican market. What a collection of items of all varieties. Don’t hesitate to bargain. There are also about eighty shops in this area called the Farmers Market Plaza. The smiling faces, the strains of mariachi music that fill the air, and the bright colors indeed create an exciting atmosphere at Market Square.
St. John’s Company Store
7959 Broadway, Ste. 406
210-829-5366
www.stjohnknits.com
St. John’s is about twelve minutes from downtown, and although I did not have time to shop all the boutique stores in the area, I did manage to stop here. This attractive store has friendly personnel, the manager being Debra Fox. The sophisticated designs are pricey, but not quite as pricey as those at other shops. There is something special about a St. John’s knit.
Dining
Mi Terra
218 Produce Row
210-225-1262
www.mitierracafe.com
Mi Terra is said to be “a little loco and a lot of fun.” I agree, and what a way to start the day! For some reason I knew that anything I ordered would probably be enough food for several days. My guess proved correct.
Mi Terra provides a delicious mix of aromas, large spaces, gaiety, bright colors, and twinkling Christmas lights of all sizes hanging from the ceiling and everywhere! Mexican music plays in the background. You enter near the bakery area, where you can purchase, or just feast your eyes on, the Texas-sized cookies, pralines, biscuits, and more. Nothing is pocieto (Spanish for “small”)! The prices are very sensible. You cannot be anything but happy and very full at Mi Terra.
Established in 1940 by Pete and Cruz Llanes Cortez, Mi Terra has been open twenty-four hours a day serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner ever since its opening day. The Cortezes started this small business and proudly named it Mi Terra (meaning “my country”). Pete Cortez would often say, “I am an American by choice not by chance.” Their children and grandchildren are seeing that the traditions are maintained. Many of the employees are considered family—some having worked there for over twenty-five years.
The breakfast specialties are:
Huevos rancheros $8.25
Chorizo con huevo $7.25
Chilaquiles $9.25
Steak and eggs $9.50
In my notes on Mi Tierra, I found this good quote: “It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees.”
The Alamo
300 Alamo Plaza
210-225-1391
www.thealamo.org
Of course, you cannot miss visiting the Alamo, which is just a few steps from the Menger. At this famous Texas spot in 1836, 189 brave and determined soldiers defended the old mission for thirteen days from 4,000 Mexican troops led by Gen. Antonio López de Santa Anna. The Alamo fell on March 6, 1836. Standing on the actual ground of a history-changing event is unforgettable.
A stone’s throw from the Menger and the Alamo is the post office. What an impressive building! It is also a court house.
San Antonio is a thriving, happy gem. A wonderful place.
Austin
Driskill Hotel
604 Brazos St.
512-474-5911
www.driskillhotel.com
The Driskill Hotel is a formidable edifice, with evident elegance and opulence. It was built by Jesse Driskill, who came from Missouri and later became a Texas cattle baron. Driskill wanted to build “one of the finest hotels in the whole country.” In 1886 he did just that, and so the traditions began. In the 1880s, the Driskill family lost their fortune and sold the hotel. But Driskill is not forgotten. His life-size portrait hangs in the lobby today.
In December 1995, Great American Life Insurance purchased the hotel, announcing plans to spend $30 million to restore it totally. What a restoration was done! Of course, there was an impressive building to start with, but the foresight of the restoration teams can only be admired.
I wasn’t hesitant to turn my car over to the pleasant and helpful front-door staff. The lobby is definitely august and dignified. The stained glass in the center of the ceiling reflects on the glossy marble floor, as do the chandeliers. The large floor-to-ceiling pillars define the lobby. The colors are primarily beige and maroon, and large potted palms with graceful bending branches add softness to the area.
The hotel has twelve floors and 188 rooms. When I got off the elevator to go to my room, I felt like I was in a private library with a bookcase lining every wall. As I walked down the hall, I realized the hallways are art galleries.
The room accommodations were nice, but as I was to discover, some attention to details and changes needed to be made. I have recently been informed that the rooms have been updated without losing their historical integrity.
I report on my experience. The room was rather Victorian with dark colors. Lace curtains with heavy damask draperies were on the windows. The quilt was of a very heavy variety with too many decorative throw pillows. The lamps were finely decorated but not good for reading. There was an oversized pullout sofa, which was really too big for the area. The air conditioner vent was right over the bed—not good. The closet was too small, and you couldn’t open the door fully to use the mirror. The bathroom definitely needed tuning. I did not mind the fact that it was not large. It was a nice size. The magnifying mirror could have had a light. The glass shower door did not fit well. Water escaped onto the floor. There were few places to hang a towel. And there was a horseshoe toilet seat.
The hangers were of the moveable variety (thank you!), so I could hang up a dress and then hang it in the bathroom for a little bit of steaming. There was no coffeemaker in the room, and as I was to find out, the Driskill has no concierge or club floor.
I have just learned (but not seen) that there has been a lot of fine tuning at the prop
erty. Maybe some of my comments were learned via osmosis and have been considered.
I visited the acclaimed Driskill Grill (512-391-7162), which has a beautiful setting indeed. I ate in the 1886 Café and Bakery, which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and on Friday and Saturday until midnight. The café is most pleasant and attractive, and the prices were sensible.
Sightseeing
Texas Capitol Visitors Center
112 E. Eleventh St.
512-305-8400
www.tspb.state.tx.us/SPB/capitol/texcap.htm
The capitol building is an impressive pink granite structure with a brilliant gold dome that sits high and prominently on the Austin skyline.
University of Texas at Austin
1 University Station
512-475-7348
www.utexas.edu
The University of Texas at Austin has fifty thousand students.
Tours of both the capitol and the university are available.
Lake Austin is near downtown and offers bike and hiking trails, as well as paths for jogging and walking. A short walk from the Driskill you find the eclectic downtown area. I would not hesitate to walk alone in the area in the daytime, but late at night is a slightly different story.
Art, music, history, and pleasant lifestyles all contribute to Austin. The more I read about this area, the more I realize how much this Texas town has to offer.
Driving Diva Serendipity: Approximately fifty miles north of Austin on I-35 North, I saw a sign for Salado, Texas, and the steering wheel pulled. Yes!
Salado
As reports state, Salado is a historic—definitely touristy—town famous for its shopping and its bed-and-breakfast inns. It is a shopper’s destination with (as I was informed) one hundred shopping venues. It is definitely not a mall. There is a little bit of everything, including art, gifts, antiques, clothing, jewelry, handcrafts, and more. What an absolutely charming place. Visit even if you have to detour.
Romancing the Roads Page 11