Romancing the Roads
Page 15
The Cliff House is well situated if you want to discover and explore the area—and there is a lot to do in Manitou Springs. You cannot help but enjoy the area and this property. Even if you just sit on the big porch and watch the scenery, you will be glad you did.
It is said that the Cliff House is expanding. The hotel has received several prestigious awards. All the fine tuning and awards, I believe, are due to the dedicated general manager Paul York. Congratulations!
Two miscellaneous must-dos in the area are the Pikes Peak Cog Railway and the Flying W Ranch.
Pikes Peak Cog Railway
515 Ruxton Ave.
719-685-5401
www.cograilway.com
What a way to spend three hours and ten minutes! The name Cog Railway refers to the “cog wheel” gear that allows the train to climb far steeper gradients than standard railroads.
I have taken this trip twice and would do it again. It is not only an interesting experience, but you see something different every time you look. It is extremely well run.
Reservations are a must. Adult tickets cost $34; children ride for $18.50 (in 2011). Plan ahead.
Everyone has a seat on the train (therefore reservations are mandatory). The pleasant and informative attendants narrate the thirteen-mile trip as you head up Pikes Peak.
The temperature drops thirty degrees between where you board and the top of Pikes Peak. Take a sweater. Also use the facilities before you get on the train as there are no bathrooms on the railroad, and there is no stopping.
Pikes Peak was named after explorer Zebulon Pike. There is a tremendous amount of interesting history about the famous peak and the development of the cog railroad. Initial credit goes to Zalmon Simmons, inventor and founder of Simmons Mattress Company, for promoting the development of the cog railroad. Spencer Penrose, local entrepreneur and builder of the Broadmoor Hotel, eventually purchased the Cog Railway.
Heading up the mountain, you see vistas of extreme expanses, wild animals, trees, wildflowers, and so much more—all composing a magnificent panorama.
The hostess was pleasant and most informative. She related some of the questions she has been asked,
“At what altitude does a deer change into an elk?”
“What is the distance between mile markers?”
She also reminded us that Katharine Lee Bates, who wrote the lyrics to “America the Beautiful,” was inspired by the vistas of Pikes Peak and that Pikes Peak is not the highest mountain in Colorado; that distinction belongs to Mount Elbert.
Due to the altitude, it is not unusual to feel woozy. When you get to the top, walk around. There are lots of souvenir shops, food establishments, bathrooms, and magnificent views. A do-not-miss are the homemade, fresh, warm donuts! So good! They seem to settle woozy tummies.
It is fun to make a call from the top of Pikes Peak.
From what I understand, Colorado Springs believes it encompasses Manitou Springs, but Manitou Springs considers itself a separate entity.
Back in Manitou Springs, Tejon Street is full of shops of all varieties.
Van Briggle Pottery
1024 S. Tejon St.
719-633-7729
www.vanbriggle.com
Started more than a century ago, Van Briggle is one of the oldest active great potteries in the United States. It was founded by Artus Van Briggle, who came to Colorado Springs after years of studying in America and Europe. He and his talented wife, Anne, began making this fine pottery, which was an immediate success. The designs were art nouveau with satin matte glazes. Today their wares are seen in prominent museums in the United States and abroad.
Unfortunately, Artus succumbed at age thirty-five to tuberculosis, but Anne continued their work, establishing a superb legacy that endures today.
While in the Manitou Springs area, be sure to see some of the unique neighborhoods. There are shops of all varieties. Colorado Avenue is a good focal point and landmark to use in the area.
FYI: In the immediate vicinity, there are seven mineral springs that are open to the public free of charge.
Flying W Ranch
3330 Chuckwagon Rd.
719-598-4000 or 800-232-3599 (FLYW)
www.flyingw.com
“Winter, Summer, Spring or Fall, Flying W Ranch has it all” . . . and they aren’t fooling! The Flying W is neither fancy nor glamorous nor boring. It is authentic, fun, and a must-do.
I leave you to read the history of this unique ranch on the Internet. Suffice it to say, the Flying W is a working ranch that has specialized in food and entertainment since the 1950s. It is privately owned and operated by Russ Wolfe. His late wife, Marian, who is dearly missed, was an active participant from the beginning. Now several of their children also help manage this one-of-a-kind enterprise.
What will you enjoy if you buy a ticket (in 2011, $22 for adults, $12 for children ages six to twelve, and $5 for children age three to five)? For starters, it will be a most unique evening. You park and walk through the gates into an authentically restored western town filled with many authentic items from the 1800s and early 1900s. Many of the shops have items to sell. The Blacksmith and Christmas shops, the Dry Goods Store, and the Little Church are there to visit. Be sure to visit Marian’s Cooking Library. You can copy recipes on the free copy machine and then try them at home. Tours of the Flying W run from 5 p.m. to 7:15 p.m.
There is outside seating for fourteen hundred people. You are not crowded. If, as they say, “Mother Nature is not kind,” there is inside seating for fourteen hundred. I have spent a Flying W evening both outside and in. Not to worry. Regardless of where you are, I repeat, you are not crowded, and you will have a good time with lots of smiles and laughs.
Here’s a synopsis of the evening’s format: You will arrive early and tour. The dinner bell will sound, and you will (surprisingly) quickly find your seat at one of the long, outdoors chuckwagon picnic tables. Each table has a number. When your table’s number is called, you go through the chow line. The menu includes your choice of beef or chicken, foil-wrapped baked potatoes, Flying W beans, chunky applesauce, old-fashioned spice cake, coffee, and lemonade.
By now, if you are at all friendly, you will have spoken with a variety of people. It’s so interesting. After dinner, the tables are quickly cleaned, and the show begins. The world-famous Flying W Wranglers entertain and put on a real western show. It’s a little hokey but very genuine and fun. It is a show you will enjoy from start to finish. You will wish it lasted longer, and you will probably by a CD so you can sing along as you recall this most unique evening.
From Boulder or Colorado Springs, Denver is but a short drive.
Denver
Situated at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, this delightful Mile High City, aka the Unsinkable Molly Brown City, is attractive, vibrant, and ever improving. It is also a sporty city, with seven professional sports teams, ninety golf courses, and 650 miles of paved bike trails. It also brews more beer than any other city.
I like to stay downtown and recommend the following hotels, listed in alphabetical order: the Brown Palace, the Magnolia, and the Oxford. There are other noteworthy hotels, but with these three, I speak from experience.
Brown Palace Hotel
321 Seventeenth St.
303-297-3111
www.brownpalace.com
The Brown Palace is grand, stately, and impressive, displaying both Victorian and Italian Renaissance architectural styles. As you stand in the lobby and look upward to the impressive six tiers of cast-iron balconies, the stained glass ceiling showers the lobby with colors. Two of the cast-iron panels were installed upside down. Can you spot them? Instead of the ladies dancing on their feet, they are standing on their heads.
It has been a few years since I stayed at the Brown. My accommodations were attractive. The bat
hroom was all right. A bit of attention was needed, but nothing was objectionable. I recently learned that indeed there has been attention to the rooms, so “good” has probably just become “better and better.”
There is a lot to see in this historic property. Be sure to take a guided tour or get a copy of “A Walking Tour of the Brown Palace Hotel” and discover what the walls reveal. Many presidents have stayed at the Brown, and there are lots of tales to tell. President Dwight D. Eisenhower was practicing his golf swing in his room and made a dent in the fireplace. It is still there in what is now called the Eisenhower Suite.
A unique aspect of the Brown that I like is that its water is drawn from its own artesian well deep below the hotel’s foundation. It requires no added purifiers. This water is also used in the spa.
The Spa at the Brown (303-312-8940) is new since my last visit, but I report some of the general facts. The $3 million spa is fifty-two hundred square feet encompassing two floors. The Brown water is used at the spa. I have read that this is the only place in the United States where Auriege skin care is available. Supposedly these products from the Auriege River have special antiaging elements. All the usual spa treatments are available.
There are several places to dine at the Brown: The Palace Arms is continually rated as one of the best Denver restaurants, where fine dining is the norm. The Churchill is a cigar bar and restaurant where some of the finest cigars can be purchased and enjoyed. The bar is open every day, with hours varying. Lunch and dinner are served. The Ship Tavern is a casual restaurant, which serves its own mircobrewed beer on tap plus a large selection of bottled beers. Casual dining here can include prime rib, seafood, Maine lobster sandwiches, Buffalo burgers, and such. Watching a sporting event on the plasma TV is a given. Ellyngton’s is for upscale breakfast, lunch, and dinner or a lavish Sunday Dom Perignon Brunch. The Atrium Lobby is the place for tea or cocktails.
The Brown Palace is convenient to a lot of downtown. (See the Sixteenth Street Mall below.)
Magnolia Hotel
818 Seventeenth St.
303-607-9000
www.magnoliahoteldenver.com
Convenient to downtown attractions (i.e., the Sixteenth Street Mall, Coors Field, the Mile High Stadium), this attractive property has a lot going for it. The staff are very friendly and helpful, and parking is on the premises—so convenient!
The following comments are based on my stay. The decor was more modern than traditional. The rooms were not fancy, floral, or frilly, but they were nice and comfortable. The lighting was fair, the clock was broken, and a bulb was out. My accommodations must have been considered a suite as all suites have kitchen accommodations. There is no turn down service at night, which is not a big deal! On the lower level, called the Club, there is a very nice complimentary breakfast bar. I have learned that in the Club, a pool table and a poker table have been added, and all the rooms have been renovated; the suites will follow suit. For guests, the drinks at Harry’s Bar are discounted. Cookies and milk are served in the evenings. There were far more pluses than minuses. I look forward to seeing the refurbished rooms and suites at the Magnolia Hotel. I am certain that it is all wonderful. When I was there and as of this writing, the general manager is a woman. Yes! They do add a certain charm to a property.
I have stayed at the Magnolia Hotel in Dallas and in Omaha and recommend both.
The Oxford
1600 Seventeenth St.
303-628-5400
www.theoxfordhotel.com
I made another return visit to this historic Victorian boutique hotel and, as always, found it to be an antique gem with modern conveniences. Immediately upon arrival, as you check in at the antique original front desk, you sense old-world charm with quiet calm. The key to your room is a real key on a large, beautiful tassel. Nice!
The eighty guest rooms—no two are alike—are well appointed with several French and English antiques. I adored the small-tile bathroom floors, the pedestal sink, and the long bench for items. The bathtub was yellow in a black-and-white bathroom. The tub knobs were well marked, and the toilet seat was not a horseshoe shape. Yes! The bathroom soap was most pleasantly aromatic. The bed was very comfortable, and although the sheets didn’t really fit tightly, a tag stated that they were 100 percent Egyptian cotton, but no thread count was given.
Now all has changed. There have been upgrades, new decor, and so forth. From the pictures I have seen, all has been done to perfection and in the proper way. Of course, each room has all the modern requirements mixed with antiques.
I love that the rug in the elevator states what day it is. How original! How easy it is to forget the day, especially when traveling. Complimentary morning coffee is served in the hallway on each floor and also in the lobby. All the oversized furniture is attractive and comfortable with new coverings.
The hotel is located conveniently to Coors Field, the Pepsi Center, and the Denver Performing Arts Complex; it is also just a few blocks from the Sixteenth Street Mall.
The Oxford Hotel was built in 1891 by the same architect who designed the Brown Palace a year later, making the Oxford Hotel Denver’s oldest grand hotel. It was reported back then that the hotel was basically ahead of its time with gadgets and opulence, its own power plant, the most perfect steam heating, electric and gas lighting, and such. And on “each floor bathrooms had separate water closets with the latest improved sanitary appliances.” The report also added that the kitchen was situated so that none of the cooking aromas could penetrate into the hotel. With everything from a barber shop, to a pharmacy, to a Western Union, to stables, to, of course, a saloon, the Oxford was really a city within a city. It had a “vertical railway,” now called an elevator. It was, and today it still is, a tiny modern gem.
The Oxford Hotel today has true old-world charm. It is one of “Colorado’s Most Romantic Hotels” and one of the “50 Best Hotels in the World,” according to Hemisphere Magazine. The Oxford’s card states, “Where the past and present join to perfection.” I agree.
Be certain to take a tour of the hotel; see the oversized men’s necessities downstairs and find out about the tunnels leading away from the hotel. All I add is, “Men will be men.”
The hotel’s Cadillac car with friendly driver is at your disposal, at no charge, to chauffeur you to any place within two miles. You can call for the car to come get you when you are ready to return to the Oxford. This is a wonderful service, particularly for women.
The Cruise Room (303-825-1107) off the hotel’s lobby opened in 1933 and is in the style of the cocktail lounge on the famed Queen Mary cruise liner. It is art deco in style, and the atmosphere is absolutely friendly. Everyone always raves about the drinks, and I can attest to their quality, especially the lemon martini or was it a vodka gimlet? The chrome-with-red-leather seats add to the comfort of this bar, as do the delicious liquids.
McCormick’s Fish House & Bar (303-825-1107) adjoins the hotel and Cruise Room. I have not eaten here, but from reports, McCormick’s has maintained its acclamation of being a longtime national favorite. At the ever-lively front bar, a favorite for neighborhood residents as well as evening guests, in the 1970s you could often bump elbows with John Denver or Peter, Paul, and Mary. McCormick’s is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Prices are sensible. McCormick’s will also serve you in the Cruise Room.
Il Fornaio is also under the Oxford’s roof. You can charge your meal to your room. I have not eaten there, but the sign says, “Serving Regional Selections in an Authentic Setting.”
The award-winning Oxford Spa & Salon (303-628-5435) is adjacent to the hotel. A small, full-service spa, it is friendly, professional, and very convenient. The health club is free to all guests. Yoga, Pilates, and cardio classes are available. The decor has a western aura—earth tones and dark colors. Hotel guests receive a 10 percent discount for spa use and spa products. Go and enjoy!
1717 Champa St.
303-296-1717
www.monaco-denver.com
I have tried several times to stay at this colorful hotel, whose decor alone entices me. The hotel’s mascot “Lillie,” a Jack Russell terrier, is often in the front lobby to greet you. Perhaps one day I will be able to stay onsite and look the property over firsthand.
Panzano
909 Seventeenth St.
303-296-3525
www.panzano-denver.com
One of the many perks of research trips is the serendipities. The following is one of the best. Often one finds a restaurant where the food is excellent, but the attitude is shoddy and the service slack or the decor out of style. Not here! Panzano is close to perfect. Why don’t I just say, “It is perfect!”
First visit: I first visited Panzano after a long drive, and a major meal was not under consideration. I was impressed that, despite my not wanting a big meal—perhaps just a salad—the attentions from the staff were most pleasant and understanding. The suggested salad was very delicious. The total atmosphere is wonderful. You can see the open brick oven where the breads are made daily. Warm breads are served immediately. Try not to eat too much bread (which is hard to do) as the meal, regardless of what you order, promises to be outstanding.
Second visit: This most special of Italian restaurants is under the aegis of creative, talented, hospitable, and knowledgeable executive chef Elise Wiggins. Upon entering you see the sparkling glassware, the bright white tablecloths, the dark wood furniture, the accessories, and the smiling personnel. Everything seems—and actually is—just right. Nothing is ostentatious or gimmicky.
Once seated, you begin a most positive gastronomic experience. Water of your choice is immediately offered, and breads are delivered.
Warning: I repeat, the breads are delicious, but do not consume too many. The best is yet to come.