Driving Diva Factoid: Jackson is the name of the actual town, while the valley is called Jackson Hole.
In the past several years, the cultural environment has improved and grown in Jackson. A good example is the Grand Teton Music Festival.
Grand Teton Music Festival
4015 N. Lake Creek Dr., No. 100, Wilson
307-733-3050
www.gtmf.org
The festival started in 1962 and struggled until it achieved today’s prominence. For many years, the performances were held under a tent, but then in 1974 Walk Festival Hall was opened.
Visitors Center
25 S. Willow, Ste. 10
307-732-0629
www.gtnpf.org
Opened in the summer of 2007, this multi-million-dollar structure is grand. The big glass windows frame the Teton Range, providing a splendid backdrop to the great exhibits.
There are many western presentations in Jackson to enjoy, including the world’s longest-running shoot-out, which is held six times a week in the Jackson Town Square. On the third Saturday in May, there is the world’s only public auction of elk antlers. This too takes place in the square. The National Elk Refuge (307-733-9212, www.fws.gov/nationalelkrefuge) is located on the north edge of town. The Boy Scouts collect shed antlers, which are then auctioned; the proceeds go to the elk-feeding program. (I adore such events and programs.) Like every tourist, you must have your picture taken at one of the four famous Antler Arches in downtown Jackson.
To list all the eateries and lodgings in Jackson would take pages. Suffice it to say, there is something for everyone, and, of course, you can always picnic or camp out, if that is your desire.
Parkway Inn
125 N. Jackson St.
307-733-3143
www.parkwayinn.com
This is very convenient to town and to many of the local events. The on-site parking is easy. The decor in the rooms is pleasing, with attractive antiques and handmade quilts on the beds. A delicious complimentary breakfast is served in the breakfast lounge. Everyone seems to meet here and discuss his or her Wyoming agenda.
There are many upscale hotels to choose from if your budget permits.
The private homes and ranches are impressive with primarily western decor. I enjoyed seeing the homes, viewing the area, and visiting with people—especially school chums. But this water lover began to feel a tiny bit landlocked after a while, even with all the beautiful lakes and the Snake River.
Regardless, this awesome area is a should- and must-see.
Reel Women Inc.
PO Box 24, Wilson
307-413-6671 or 208-787-2657
reel-women.com
I could not leave this tidbit out. I insert this here as so much of Reel Women Inc.’s activity takes place in Jackson Hole. The mailing address is above.
Lori-Ann Murphy, founder and instructor, runs this fly-fishing school. Here you will find everything pertinent to the sport and its adventures. Lori-Ann is an advisor for the Orvis Company and consulted for Meryl Streep and Kevin Bacon in the movie The River Wild. She has won awards and can often be found at sport shows and banquets, demonstrating and speaking about her passion—fly-fishing. The popular women’s fly-fishing school is held in Jackson Hole. There are various other fishing trips. If time permits, take a two-day course. And don’t you love the name Reel Women Inc.?
Important Driving Information
Leaving Jackson, heading west, you will go through Wilson. The road west from Wilson into Idaho, the Teton Pass, is a brake burner for a short time, but it is beautiful. Listen for road updates, and pay careful attention.
Montana
The largest of the Rocky Mountain states, Montana is truly beautiful and runs all the way from Glacier National Park in the north to the Montana side of Yellowstone National Park in the south.
Driving Diva Factoid: The very real town of West Yellowstone is in Montana, which is not to be confused with Yellowstone in Wyoming.
Three Forks (Population Approximately 1,500)
On your way to or from Yellowstone or Glacier national parks, or if you just happen to be in the area, Three Forks is a must-stop. It may not be just around the corner, but you’ll wish it was. You will have a very delicious experience.
Wheat Montana Farms and Bakery
10778 Hwy. 287
800-535-2798
www.wheatmontana.com
Driving in Montana for long stretches, you will notice the huge grain farms, which serve to get you in the mood to stop at Wheat Montana. Here, you will find almost everything that has to do with wheat—flour, grains, cereals, legumes, and seeds. You’ll also find their cookbook, bread machine mixes, wheat chili mix, aprons, and more. In the bakery department, you can get possibly one of the best sandwiches you will ever consume. Now you will know what bread is supposed to taste like! Try their products even if you have to obtain them by mail.
For three generations the Folkvord family has been involved with grain production. Their operation now includes twelve thousand acres of the most productive soil in Montana. At five thousand feet above sea level, it is the highest elevation at which grain is grown in North America. Elevation, weather, and attention to quality versus quantity all enhance this fine product.
Depending on the time of year, as you drive you will see huge parcels of land crowned with waving grains—not unlike a graceful dance—that seem to stretch all the way to the horizon. You’ll see a line of combines harvesting grain. The sight is awesome. It looks choreographed, and in a way it is.
Driving Diva Factoid: If you store grains in a plastic pail with an oxygen absorber in a temperature-stable environment, the grains should last six to eight years, and perhaps even longer. Flour or any other processed product should be used within a year (info from www.wheatmontana.com).
The interstate as you head north is long and straight and goes on and on and on. Because of the beauty that surrounds you, you may get a bit weary, but only briefly, as the land and sky are awesome, and you do not want to miss a single cloud or gentle breeze.
As you drive along I-15, you can’t help but wonder how often the inhabitants of these big ranches visit their neighbors. How often do they go shopping? How close is the grocery store? Neighbors are not close by for borrowing a quick cup a sugar. If you go to a barber, by the time you get home, it’s almost time for another trim!
Driving in Montana is an experience—one that you will want to have many times.
Great Falls (Population Approximately 55,000)
You can take I-15 north to Shelby, then take Highway 2 to Browning, and then drive on into Glacier. Or right outside of Great Falls, you can take Highway 89 to Browning and then drive on into Glacier. Either way, the countryside is magnificent, and as you near Glacier, you begin to feel the aura of the fantastic national park you are about to enter. It is awesome and magical.
Glacier National Park
Entering Glacier National Park, you embark on the experience of a lifetime. There is so much to see. The following are my discoveries and highlights, but do your own research to learn as much as you can before you visit this magnificent place.
I read a Glacier logo and it proved so accurate: “Experience a Dream, with Your Eyes Wide Open.”
Places to Stay in the Park
Glacier Park Lodge
1 Midvale Rd., East Glacier Park
406-226-5600
www.glacierparkinc.com
This establishment is large and impressive.
Many Glacier Hotel
774 Railroad St., Columbia Falls
406-732-4411
www.glacierparkinc.com
This establishment is also large and impressive.
Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and Cabins
406-732-5531
www.glacierparkinc.com
This establishment is rustic and wonderful.
Lake MacDonald Lodge
406-888-5431
www.glacierparkinc.com
This lodge is delightful.
Izaak Walton Inn
290 Izaak Walton Inn Rd., Essex
406-888-5700
www.izaakwaltoninn.com
This establishment is charming and attractive.
I have stayed and dined at Glacier Park Lodge, Many Glacier Hotel, and the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. What wonderful places! They are perfect and not pretentious. But that describes Glacier in general.
Lake MacDonald Lodge and all the places are very friendly. Prices vary, but they’re worth every penny. All the wonderful lodges have restaurants and a most special ambiance.
Bears: Remember that you are on their turf. Respect the bears, and keep your distance. They may look and act docile, but that can change in a flash. You cannot run fast enough to escape their reach. Wildlife abounds: Enjoy, respect, photograph, remember, and then have the joy of reflecting.
Must-do’s
Red Bus Tours
406-892-2525
www.glacierparkinc.com
The Red Bus Tours use bright red motor coaches built originally in 1936 by the White Motor Company. Today, the legacy continues, and the coaches have been upgraded and refurbished by the Ford Motor Company. The drivers, known as “jammers,” originally got their nickname because they had to jam the gears as they traveled the roads. The Red Bus Tour is a big must-do, so make reservations. The fee is sensible.
The Sun Road
This is part of the Red Bus Tour, but you can also drive it yourself. Fifty-two-miles-long, it is a bit of a challenge and can be a white-knuckle experience in places. I definitely recommend leaving your car and letting the experienced “jammers” drive, answer questions, and show you the sights.
The Red Bus Tours make various stops along the way. These red buses have canvas roll-back tops that allow for unbelievable views as you feast your eyes on awesomeness. You will go along the Garden Wall, cross the Continental Divide at Logan Pass (elevation 6,646 feet), and descend to St. Mary Lake. This road is an absolute engineering feat.
Driving Diva Factoid: Take a sweater. Although there are blankets in the bus, a sweater will also feel good as the temperature drops in the afternoon, and the canvas tops are closed. If you are driving, you should try to go in July or August, when the roads are at their best. Snow can come very early in Glacier.
FYI: By 2030, there is a good possibility that all the glaciers in Glacier National Park will have melted!
Many Glacier Boat Tours
Seeing Glacier’s beauty from the water is another special experience. There is a fee, and spaces are limited. Make a reservation (406-257-2426).
Eateries near Glacier Park
Serrano’s Mexican Restaurant
29 Dawson Ave., East Glacier
406-226-9293
www.serranosmexican.com
This restaurant is nonsmoking, informal, and sensibly priced.
Babb Bar Cattle Baron Supper Club
Hwy. 89, Babb
406-732-4033
This is a real western restaurant serving what some claim is “the best beef in the West.” My beef dinner was very good. The large restaurant is on the second floor over the bar. The staff really gets a daily workout going up and down the steps and back and forth to the kitchen. You must be hungry when you dine, and don’t rush as it is deliciously special.
I didn’t see anything else in Babb (population approximately 500), so maybe the Babb Bar Cattle Baron Supper Club is Babb.
Whistle Stop
1024 U.S. Hwy. 49, East Glacier
406-226-9292
The sign adds “World Famous” to the name. Go hungry and be prepared for a unique breakfast experience! I recommend you split whatever you order. You’ll be lucky if you are hungry again by dinner time. It is not fancy and not to be missed.
Park Café & Grocery
U.S. Hwy. 89, St. Mary
406-732-4482
www.parkcafe.us
Located at the East Glacier entrance to Glacier National Park, this colorful, noisy, crowded, and popular café is known for its delicious pies. My favorite was a blueberry, blackberry, and raspberry mix called Razzleberry. The establishment serves about forty pies per day! Go and enjoy. You might have blue teeth for a while, but it’s oh so worth it! The café’s motto on a tie-dyed shirt read, “Pies for Strength.”
Two Sisters
U.S. Hwy. 89, Babb, four miles north of St. Mary
406-732-5535
This funky, fun place is delicious and offers reasonable prices. Try the burger with Creole sauce, followed by a piece of buttermilk chocolate cake.
Museums
Blackfeet Heritage Center & Art Gallery
333 Central Ave. W., Browning
406-338-5661
www.siyehdevelopment.com/heritage.html
Promoting the heritage of Native Americans, this gallery is well worth the stop. It is not large, but you will learn a lot.
Museum of the Plains Indians
U.S. Hwy. 2 and 89 West, Browning
406-338-2230
www.browningmontana.com/museum.html
The hours vary by season. You will find an interesting and varied display of arts by the Northern Plains Indians. The array of historic clothing, weapons, household items, and daily goods is informative. The exhibitions and sale items by outstanding contemporary Indian artisans are impressive.
Driving Diva Tip: There is so much to see and do in Glacier, it would be a good idea to plan your itinerary with professionals at the National Park Service or your hotel. Also, get suggestions from others who have been to Glacier.
FYI: Working at one of the national parks is a wonderful experience. I hope to do so in a few years. There are all types of jobs for all ages. I think mine will be in the Glacier Gift Shop (www.glaciergiftshop.com). It has to be a rewarding, interesting way to spend the summer.
Leaving Glacier: Going West
The roads out of Glacier are good. Highway 2 takes you into Whitefish (population approximately 5,032) and then into Kalispell, which is the largest town in the Flathead valley. Big Sky country, as this Montana area is termed, is rapidly gaining in popularity.
Kalispell (Population Approximately 17,149)
Main Street Kalispell
There are many old, original buildings, lots of shops, and lots of stoplights on Main Street. I discovered another Wheat Montana Bakery (www.wheatmontana.com) here!
Apple Barrel
3250 U.S. Hwy. 2 E.
406-755-7753
This place was very friendly and sold very fresh produce.
50,000 Silver Dollar Bar
Frontage Rd. W., Haugan
406-678-4242
Exit 16 off I-90, which is about ten miles east of the Idaho border and ninety miles east of Spokane, is the perfect place to stop. Here you will find the $50,000 Silver Dollar Bar, one of those “should I really stop here?” kinds of places. The answer is yes! It is a wonderful spot with all sorts of sensibly priced items. The food area and ladies room were clean. The employees were friendly. The food prices were reasonable and the food good. Also Montana’s largest gift shop, it sells lots of trinkets of all varieties and prices. I have also learned that this fun stop is a third-generation enterprise.
Driving Diva Tip: This is not a quick in and out unless you make it so. Plan accordingly.
Grassrange (Population Approximately 144)
One trip, leaving Glacier, I took I-15 at Shelby and then headed south to Great Falls, where I got on U.S. 87 South. After getting ga
s in Lewiston, I came upon Grassrange, where a country store loomed temptingly. What a delight this two-part establishment turned out to be! The store half is on one side, overseen by men. The restaurant half is on the other side, and it, of course, is run by women. When I arrived, the homemade sweet buns were just coming out of the oven. Wow! It was a wonderful stop. If you are ever in Grassrange, be sure to stop. You will be welcomed and just might learn a thing or two.
Mammoth Hot Springs
Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel
100 Grand Loop Rd., Yellowstone National Park
307-344-7311
Another good road trip is to travel from Glacier to the Montana-Wyoming border, where you will find the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel in Wyoming. This is such a delight! Each time I stay there, I discover more and more. The scenery is beautiful, and the elk casually grazing around the property form natural props. There are many types of accommodations, all most comfortable.
Suggestion: Find the hot pots. You will see cars parked along the side of the road in Montana. There is a shed where you can change into your bathing suit and put on your wading sneakers or such—which hopefully you have not forgotten! You can then go carefully (the rocks are very slippery) into the very warm spring and waterfall pool. It is fabulous! What a day!
For more details on the Mammoth Hot Springs, see the Wyoming chapter.
Gardiner (Population 852)
The original entrance to Yellowstone National Park—and the only entrance open year-round—is in Gardiner. The famous Roosevelt Arch, dedicated by Teddy Roosevelt in 1903, is prominent; it can be seen from two miles outside of town. Aside from walking and sightseeing, there are hiking, biking, and rafting in this beautiful area. From my very first visit, the unique charm and total realness got me.
Gardiner is less than a ten-minute drive from Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel in Wyoming. Remember to look for animals, big animals, which are often on the road.
Gardiner is one of those towns that, at first glance, you are not quite sure why you are there, but then within minutes you are glad you came. This tiny hippie town is rustic and low-key, but with hints of real savvy. Situated in Paradise Valley with the Yellowstone River running right through it, this little place is worth a visit.
Romancing the Roads Page 18