Date Data: Many consider dates nature’s candy. They are low in fat and sodium, contain no cholesterol, are high in fiber and magnesium, contain more potassium than bananas, and are rich in iron.
Note: In the 1940s, Gen. George Patton had two desert training camps here, and in 1942 three airstrips were built for training B-25 bombers. Most of this is gone, although due to the hot desert heat, the military still uses the Dateland area for training troops going to Iraq.
Gila Bend
On entering the town, you’ll see a sign reading,
Gila Bend
Welcomes You
Home of 1700 Friendly People
And 5 Old Crabs Ele. 737
The name Gila Bend comes from the fact that the Gila River makes a 90-degree “bend” to the north here. Gila Bend is about fifty miles southwest of Phoenix; a shortcut to the metropolis is to take Route 85 at Gila Bend north to I-10. I have done this several times, and Route 85 is a good road, though without the services of an interstate.
About forty miles outside of Phoenix, there is one of the largest prisons imaginable, including a large juvenile correctional center, where a road sign reads, “Do Not Stop for Hitchhikers.” Hmmm.
Phoenix and Scottsdale
Phoenix and Scottsdale are so close together that they practically lie on top of one another. A thriving oasis in the middle of the dessert, Phoenix is not difficult to navigate. The key is to become familiar with the main thoroughfares and keep an eye on “the Camel,” imposing Mount Camelback, as a point of reference.
Whether a camel or a camelette . . . at first it might be hard to discern. The camel is “seated” on all fours. Focus and you will soon see it. It’s an excellent landmark.
The Phoenix/Scottsdale area is a veritable heaven on earth for women, with its spas, restaurants, golf courses, pools, and shopping. Here are my recommendations, based on my several visits to this fabulous desert oasis.
Hotels
Royal Palms Hotel
5200 E. Camelback Rd.
800-672-6011
www.royalpalmshotel.com
What a fabulous oasis it is! From the second you see this gem, you know it is special. Immediately you get a feeling of intimacy and quiet delight. As you drive the small, circular cobblestone driveway and park your car, attired attendants greet you with a smile, even in 110-degree heat.
When you enter, you feel like you are walking into a private home—no, a mansion—which the Royal Palms once was. Its history from home to hotel is interesting:
In the early 1920s, New York financier Delos Cooke pursued his dream to build a winter home in Phoenix and commissioned the building of a mansion in the grand Spanish colonial style. A world traveler, Delos and his wife, Florence, filled their mansion with wondrous treasures from their travels around the world.
After Cooke’s untimely death in 1931, the home was sold to a series of private parties, who added various rooms, including an in-house chapel. After World War II, a group of investors purchased the Cooke property with the intention of developing a first-class resort. A new era for the estate began.
Named for the regal, towering trees lining each side of the entryway, the Royal Palms Inn opened to guests in the winter of 1948. It became a destination of choice for discriminating travelers from around the world, including celebrities such as Groucho Marx and Helena Rubenstein.
In 1995, local Arizona businessman Fred Unger purchased the landmark property and went about the task of restoring Royal Palms to its original charm and elegance. Today, after a multi-million-dollar restoration, the preservation of this historic property has been assured.
There are rooms, suites, casitas, deluxe casitas, a camelback villa, and a honeymoon villa. I was traveling in the summer and was upgraded to a magnificent deluxe casita. The room was absolutely charming and cozy with its wrought iron bed frame, fireplace, private patio, and custom-designed furniture. Though wonderful, it needed a bit of fine tuning: The oversize stuffed chairs could have used an ottoman between them; the switch on the bed lamps was not an easy reach; the door on the TV entertainment center didn’t fold back all the way. These little things could easily be corrected.
A Female Tidbit: If you have a private patio, you can rinse out your items and hang them discreetly on a patio chair, where they will dry almost instantly. Don’t leave them out at night, because that’s when the sprinklers go on.
Everyone at the Royal Palms was extremely friendly, capable, and knowledgeable. The courtyard and all the inside areas and gardens are beautiful.
The heavenly Alvadora Spa is what I call a boutique spa—small, intimate, and serene. You definitely do not feel like a number lost among pseudo smiles. The technician who gave me an “Orange Blossom Body Buff” was skilled and professional and generally seemed to care about what she was doing and how I was feeling. I recommend this treatment without a doubt. In the spa world, there are many kinds of treatments applied by technicians whose experience varies, from the perfunctory body rub with smelly oil and several minutes of gonging sounds to oils carefully applied until you are comfortably in la-la land. The Alvadora was definitely in the latter category; providing one of the best spa treatments I’ve received. Prices can range from $30 to $400 for a four-hour spa package. (An 18 percent gratuity is automatically added to your bill.) There are many different options, so study the (then) difficult-to-read brochure carefully. You have nothing to think about except you and your experience. Alvadora proves that size doesn’t matter when it comes to a first-rate experience.
The Royal Palms’s principal restaurant, T. Cook’s, features not just a maître d’ but a “director of romance.” Even if romance is not on the evening’s agenda, the director oversees everything with enthusiasm and his restaurant gamesmanship. My dining experience at T. Cook’s was exceptional. I enjoyed soft-shell crab with sweet pepper relish and warm bacon dressing; toasted beet and chèvre salad with watercress, mâche, and walnut vinaigrette; spit-roasted chicken with baby green beans, creminis, and beurre rouge. Ice cream was my dessert, and it was served on appropriately chilled plates. Hot plates, cold plates, large plates, small plates, decorated plates—it was truly a delicious dinner delight, and the presentations were perfect. Prices are sensible. T. Cook’s is very popular, so reservations are recommended.
T. Cook’s also has outdoor patio dining—perhaps not a great idea in midsummer, though the area is cooled by a misting system. This makes alfresco dining bearable with a fun twist. Forget your hair! The bar at T. Cook’s is in the courtyard. There is bar seating for about thirteen, in addition to several overstuffed leather chairs and a 1930s-style sofa. Music from the baby grand piano fills the air. The Cigar Room is located at the bar and seats approximately twelve people in plush chairs and sofas over a red leather floor. I did not see any “men only” signs, so ladies too can enjoy.
Royal Palms offers cold bottled water on departure—a classy gesture befitting a classy place.
The Phoenician
6000 E. Camelback Rd.
480-941-8200
www.thephoenician.com
You hear about some places over and over again until they develop a sort of legendary status in your mind. The Phoenician lives up to its reputation and more.
Though huge, slick, and glamorous, the Phoenician is not intimidating. The complex is well run, pleasant, and inviting, even though it sprawls over 250 acres, contains 654 rooms, and boasts 27 holes of championship golf, 12 tennis courts, 9 heated pools, and a 165-foot waterslide (which this mother thoroughly enjoyed after several moments of hesitation).
Note: Foot protection is vital by the pools due to the heat of the walkways.
The Phoenician is indeed big but not gaudy. The art is tasteful, and the decor is well designed. It is not hard to find your way around once you get your bearings, but the staff is most helpful if you get
lost. I stayed in the Canyon Building, which is kind of a resort within the resort. Just a few steps outside my room was the pool for the building, where I enjoyed a delightful late-night swim under the stars. Conveniently, the Canyon Building also has its own self-park garage downstairs.
The first night I had drinks at the Thirsty Camel Lounge with then director of public relations Debora Bridges, who gave me an outstanding verbal tour of the property. (She definitely knows her profession.) The Thirsty Camel is the perfect spot to wind down, with its spectacular views and relaxing classical music in the background.
Dinner was at Mary Elaine’s, located on the top level of the main building. The views are magnificent, and the attention to detail was to the max. Then women would receive a “perch” on which to place their purses.
During dinner I met Greg Tresner, the master sommelier, who succinctly and interestingly explained the wines being served.
FYI: There are only forty-two master sommeliers in the United States and ninety-seven worldwide, as noted in Arizona Food & Lifestyle.
Update: After nearly twenty years, J&G Steakhouse (480-214-8000) has replaced Mary Elaine’s, but not a morsel of excellence has been diminished. The sommelier is still present, but the pocketbook perch is gone. From what I have learned, this is a most special eating experience. It is a Jean-George Vongerichten creation.
Il Terrazo (480-423-2530), featuring American Italian cuisine, is another dining area serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, and an excellent Sunday brunch. Casual dining can be found at the Relish Burger Bistro, overlooking the championship golf course.
I had an excellent facial at the spa (800-843-2392), and there are numerous choices. The space is big, gracious, and appealing.
My experience at the Phoenician was very memorable. You will feel at home and comfortable in spite of its size. You will enjoy.
Arizona Biltmore and Spa
2400 E. Missouri Ave.
602-955-6600 or 800-950-0086
www.arizonabiltmore.com
Designed by consulting architect Frank Lloyd Wright and opened in 1929, the Arizona Biltmore was later bought by William Wrigley Jr. For the next forty-four years, the Wrigley family owned and operated this unique property. In 1973 it was sold to Talley Industries. There have been several expansions and renovations to the Arizona Biltmore, but it has always retained its special style. In spite of its size, you will not feel overwhelmed here, though more signage would definitely help to keep you from getting lost in the maze of corridors. The spa (602-381-7632) is most pleasant, and one of the unique features of the resort is a giant chessboard cut into the lawn. The resort has three restaurants: the Café for casual, healthy eating; Frank & Alberts; and Wright’s (602-381-7632), the resort’s signature restaurant, where I found the food and ambiance exceptional.
This property, known as the “Jewel of the Desert,” has 738 guest rooms, eight swimming pools, seven tennis courts, six restaurants and lounges, and a full spa, salon, and fitness center. There are two eighteen-hole championship golf courses, the Links and the Adobe, and an eighteen-hole putting course. Everything you could possibly want can be found at this magnificent resort, though it is anything but glitzy. The Wright-influenced design is subdued but attractive, and the landscaping is superb. The resort was recently added to the Waldorf-Astoria Collection in the Hilton Hotel system.
Driving Diva Factoid: Irving Berlin composed “White Christmas” sitting poolside at the Arizona Biltmore.
Even at the height (and in the heat) of summer, the Arizona Biltmore is a busy place, hosting business meetings as well as family vacations.
Camelback Inn Marriott Resort and Spa
5402 E. Lincoln Dr.
480-948-1700 or 800-242-2635 (CAMEL)
www.camelbackinn.com
Upscale but relaxing, accommodations here consist of extremely attractive casitas, some of which are in fact duplexes, with the bedroom and bath on the loft level and the living room, dining and kitchen areas, and powder room on the lower level. Walk in the gardens. Perhaps the cacti will be blooming. This is a nice oasis.
Phoenix-Scottsdale Shopping
This area is notoriously upscale, but I have found a good diversity of stores from consignment shops to the usual big-box outlets.
Camelback Colonnade
1919 Camelback Rd.
602-953-6412
www.camelbackcolonnade.com
Here you’ll find Last Chance (602-248-2843), a huge Nordstrom’s outlet and shopper’s paradise. It consists of Nordstrom’s “mistakes” (Yes!). Overbought clothing lines that are now being liquidated are available at fabulous sale prices, and you will not believe how much there is to choose from. Have fun!
A must-stop for any shopper is a complex of stores on the 2000 block of East Camelback:
My Sister’s Closet, My Sister’s Attic, and Well Suited
2033 E. Camelback Rd.
602-954-6080
My Sister’s Closet (www.mysisterscloset.com) has recycled designer apparel; My Sister’s Attic (www.mysistersattic.com) has recycled home furnishings; Well Suited (www.shopwellsuited.com) has clothing for men. The stores are operated by Eco-Chic Consignment Inc., whose philosophy is “recycled stuff for humans and their homes.” (I confess, I left a few pennies at My Sister’s Closet.)
Driving Diva Observation: When you enter freeways or highways in Arizona (and possibly in other states as well), a caution light blinks red or green, telling you if cars are approaching on the road—so you know whether to enter or wait. This is excellent. Of course, you need the input from your eyes as well.
South of Phoenix
Heading southeast out of Phoenix toward Tucson and Green Valley on Route 10, one comes across a number of curiosities, such as the ominously imposing Picacho State Prison, where once again you are urged not to pick up hitchhikers.
Rooster Cogburn’s Ostrich Ranch
17599 E. Peak Ln., Picacho
520-466-3658
www.roostercogburn.com
This is the largest ostrich ranch in the United States. Have you ever fed an ostrich? It’s a hoot. You buy the proper ostrich food for a very small amount of money, then go feed these funny-looking birds. At first I thought they would bite the hand that was trying to feed them, but no. A quick thrust of the neck over the high fence, and the food is safely plucked away from you. D. C., Lucille, and Danna Cogburn own and operate the ranch; Lucille was there when I visited. Most friendly and knowledgeable, Lucille can tell you everything you ever wanted to know about ostriches (and then some). The ranch sells everything from ostrich eggs to ostrich feather dusters.
Note: Rooster Cogburn’s is closed on Wednesdays. If you miss visiting, you can look the ranch up on the Internet.
Tucson
One of the oldest cities in the United States, Tucson has a lot going on. I spent a short time there, but without a doubt, it is vibrant, artistic, interesting, and historic. I should go back.
FYI: From firsthand experiences, I report that St. Mary’s Hospital is more than first rate.
St. Mary’s Hospital
1601 W. Saint Mary’s Rd.
520-872-3000
www.carondelet.org
I hope you do not need it, but I provide the information just in case.
Green Valley and Amado
Green Valley, a growing suburb of Tucson, is charming, friendly, clean, and attractive. A few miles south of Green Valley on I-19 is Amado, the place the Hollywood crowd would getaway to in the 1930s. If you exit at Arivaca Road, you will see a huge concrete cow’s skull that marks the entrance of a cantina, the Longhorn Bar & Grill.
Longhorn Bar & Grill
28851 S. Nogales Hwy.
520-398-3955
www.longhornamadoaz.com
Rumor has it that the nigh
tly specials are terrific.
Across the way is the popular and famous Cow Palace Restaurant.
Cow Palace Restaurant
28802 S. Nogales Hwy.
520-398-1999
www.cowpalacerestaurant.com
You can’t miss it. The building is red and white with a cow statue on the roof. Opened in 1920, the palace was frequented by such celebrities as John Wayne and the unique Griz Green, the Gabby Hayes look-alike who was an occasional movie extra.
Prescott and Jerome: North of Phoenix
Prescott (pronounced “press-kit”) is charming, and it’s hard not to feel welcome in this rather upscale western town. Boasting gentle seasons, recreational activities of all types, and major cultural events, it is home to the world’s oldest rodeo as well as Prescott College. There are wonderful antique stores, craft shops, and boutiques. A memorable Prescott experience is an evening gathering in the town square by Courthouse Plaza. One night there might be square dancing; the next night there will be something else.
There’s a lot of history in Prescott; over 450 buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places. Whiskey Row (www.whiskeyrow.us) is directly across from the Courthouse Plaza.
Hotel St. Michael
205 W. Gurley St.
928-776-1999
www.stmichaelhotel.com
The old Hotel St. Michael is a true step back in time.
Palace Restaurant and Saloon
120 South Montezuma
928-541-1996
www.historicpalace.com
The Palace Restaurant has a friendly western ambience and excellent food.
Hassayampa Inn
122 E. Gurley St.
928-778-9434
www.hassayampainn.com
This sixty-eight-room historic property sits right on the street and is full of charm. Built in 1927, it is not without modern amenities. Nothing is pretentious at the Hassayampa Inn; everything seems just right. A meal in the three-star Peacock Dining Room (928-777-9563) is a delicious delight. I enjoyed every second at the inn and in Prescott.
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