by David Rees
STEP ONE: MAKING YOURS A CLEAN MACHINE
The first rule of hand-crank pencil sharpeners is: “A clean machine is a mean machine.”
Unless the sharpener is “fresh from the box,” you should begin by examining the cylinder blade. Most single-burr hand-crank sharpeners allow visual and physical assessment of the blade via the shavings drawer—remove the drawer and look upwards, into the device’s interior. (Remember to replace the shavings drawer before use!)
Use a soft-bristle toothbrush to clean the blade.
If you’d like a closer look at the blade and gears, removing the sharpening mechanism from the housing is usually a simple affair. I recommend this deeper level of examination for first-time users, as it goes a long way towards demystifying the engineering of the hand-crank sharpener—if you’ve always wondered why the CARL Angel-5 produces a longer point than the Dahle 166, removing and comparing the devices’ sharpening components will reveal a difference in cylinder-blade angles that should settle the issue definitively.
Once you are assured the pencil sharpener is clean and running smoothly, it is time to put it to use.
STEP TWO: MINIMIZING TRUNCATION
Many hand-crank sharpeners offer dialed adjustment for different points via the extension or retraction of a tiny slat within the shaping sleeve. The slat limits how deeply the pencil is allowed to intrude within the sleeve while being sharpened by the circling blade.1
Attentive readers will conclude that this system doesn’t actually affect the conical shape of the cedar point, but rather the amount of graphite extending from the collar top before being cut off: “The adjustment is one of truncation,” they cry, “and as such, offers a flat tip at every setting except the one which allows for a true tip!”
They are correct, and should be commended for their acuity and enthusiasm.
If your device offers different pencil points, set the dial for the sharpest setting before beginning.
STEP THREE: PREPARING TO SECURE THE PENCIL
Unlike the single-blade pocket sharpener or the pocketknife, the single-burr hand-crank sharpener does not require that the pencil turn against the cutting mechanism, either continuously (like the pocket sharpener) or in discrete rotations (like the pocket knife). Heavy-handed daredevils may attempt to rotate the pencil against the cylinder blade, but the effect on the point is negligible, and certainly not worth the increased risk of cedar scuffing, graphite breakage, or other damage.
Make no mistake: This technique requires a stable pencil, and said stabilization will be provided by the sharpener. Whether that sharpener is the man or his machine is another matter.
Please understand, some hand-crank pencil sharpeners feature a spring-loaded intake mechanism that stabilizes the pencil, while others offer no such appendage, leaving the job of pencil-stabilization to the sharpener operator’s hand.
The correct method of hand-stabilizing a pencil in a hand-crank pencil sharpener will be addressed in Chapter 10; in this chapter we will focus on those devices with extendable stabilizing faceplates.2
There are two intake mechanisms common to the hand-crank sharpener, distinguished by the location of their aperture controls. (The aperture secures the pencil shaft within retractable teeth.) Some machines, like the Swordfish Scholar, the Classroom Friendly Supplies sharpener, and the ELM-148, have two tabs on top of the extendable faceplate; as the tabs are brought together, the aperture opens.
The sharpener pictured here (the Dahle 166) finds its aperture operated by a button on the body of the sharpener.
Be aware that the serrated teeth of intake apertures may leave indentations where they grab the pencil. If you are sharpening a pencil for display, such imperfections may dissuade you from using a spring-loaded intake. You may enjoy better results with a hand-crank sharpener in which you hold and guide the pencil.
8.1: PHRASES IN PROMOTIONAL/INSTRUCTIONAL COPY FOR HAND-CRANK SHARPENERS THAT SHOULD MAKE ONE WARY OF THEIR PURCHASE AND/OR USE
Does not work on pencils
The manufacturer shall not be held liable for
Usually does not smell like an old lady’s foot
Elevate the bleeding appendage
Sustained ringing in the ears
Tetanus shot
Does not necessarily mean your finger will fall off
Risk of blindness
A further series of anal suppositories
Our little friend is hungry.
After watching the jaws of the aperture open in hungry anticipation, one may be tempted to insert the pencil, but this would be folly—until the faceplate is pulled away from the body of the sharpener, there will be no tension moving the pencil into the sharpening mechanism.
Create the appropriate tension by drawing the faceplate away from the body of the sharpener. You should feel the strength of the faceplate’s springs as they struggle against your fingers to pull the faceplate back to its resting position.
“Don’t worry, little springs,” you may whisper, “you shall have your rest—but first I have a treat for you to draw into the body of the sharpening mechanism.”
Sure enough, with its aperture open and its faceplate extended, the sharpener is finally ready to receive its pencil.
Let us tarry no longer!
STEP FOUR: INSERTING AND SECURING THE PENCIL
Place the pencil through the toothed aperture and into the entrance hole of the sharpener’s body. Gently remove your finger from the aperture’s release button and allow the teeth to bite into the shaft. You should feel the top of the pencil fitting snugly inside the shaping sleeve as the pencil is stabilized parallel to the surface on which the sharpener rests.
Take a moment to admire your handiwork: You have placed a pencil in a single-burr hand-crank sharpener!
“Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair!”
STEP FIVE: EMPLOYING A CLAMP OR ADMINISTERING DOWNWARD PRESSURE TO STABILIZE THE SHARPENER
Needless to say, the body of the sharpener should not move during the pencil-pointing process. Unexpected or radical movements could surprise the user and lead to a “handle spasm” in which the hand-crank is jerked or its smooth rotation is otherwise interrupted, which could damage the pencil held in the device’s interior or interrupt one’s counting of handle rotations.3
Like many hand-crank sharpeners, the model pictured here ships with a removable clamp. I never use clamps, as I enjoy the flexibility of being able to reposition the device to maximize natural light exposure. Since the pencil is secured via the intake mechanism, I can use my free hand to stabilize the sharpener from above.
If you are using a single-burr hand-crank sharpener that doesn’t feature a spring-loaded intake mechanism, your non-cranking hand must guide the pencil into the device—which means, of course, that you will need to use a clamp or suction base to maintain stability of the device. Some users go so far as to glue their sharpener to the table top!
But enough of these nightmare scenarios: Let us return to the device before us.
Place your hand on top of the sharpener and press down.
There are now two forces acting upon the body of the sharpener: The downward pressure administered by your hand, and an opposite force being applied from the surface on which the sharpener rests.
This simple physics lesson should underscore the importance of resting your sharpener on a stable platform; a weak or wobbly table may not be able to withstand the downward pressure of your hand.
STEP SIX: TURNING THE HANDLE TO SHARPEN THE PENCIL
It is time to begin turning the handle of the sharpener. Rotate the crank evenly at a moderate speed. It should take approximately 4/5 of a second to make a full rotation; your hand should be moving about as quickly as it does while stirring soup. If the burr cylinder is sharp, you will experience only slight resistance while shaping the pencil.
As you turn the handle, make sure the pencil is drawn further into the sharpener by the spring-loaded intake mechanism, as this indicates the top is bei
ng shortened, i.e. shaped.
After fifteen handle-rotations you should feel the resistance give way as the point comes closer to completion and the blades find less wood and graphite to engage. When the handle turns as easily as it did before the pencil’s insertion, and the pencil is no longer moving into the sharpener, and the sharpener’s cacophony has given way to silence, it is safe to release the pencil from the aperture for inspection.
Here we see a point typical of a medium-quality single-burr hand-crank sharpener. The collar-bottom is uniform, with no visible chafing. The exposed cedar of the collar is smooth and even around the cone, showing no irritation or roughness. The collar-top betrays slight inconsistencies in the border with the graphite, but none that will compromise the user experience.
The ratio of exposed graphite to cedar is approximately 1:3, indicating a stable fulcrum capable of withstanding moderate pressure. A point with this ratio is appropriate for drafting a letter of complaint or any other dispatch in which the user’s emotion may lead to a slight increase in pressure applied to the pencil in its journey across the page.
Looking closely, we notice a slight irregularity in the reflected light on the graphite, approximately halfway between the collar-top and the tip. This is likely due to the graphite composition itself, rather than the sharpener—though it behooves one to record such imperfections in one’s log, as repeated irregularities may indicate a flaw in the device rather than the pencil.
The stopper has done its job: far from being over-sharpened, the tip of the pencil is flat and perpendicular to the pencil shaft, ensuring even wear as long as the pencil is rotated during deployment. Those who desire a sharper point can finish the job with construction paper or high-grit sandpaper.
In summary, this is a handsome, functional point that doesn’t call attention to itself—perfect for middle-management professionals and khaki-trouser enthusiasts. Not recommended for drafting or engineering work, as the point is relatively stocky and as such offers limited visibility-of-line at some angles.
Its ease of production further recommends this point (and the tool which shaped it) to the non-specialist, especially in cases when many pencils must be sharpened in one sitting.
All in all, a pleasant (if un-extraordinary) experience awaits those who take this pencil in hand.
Renewing a point with a hand-crank sharpener is recommended only after moderate use, as the cylinder blade may have difficulty finding purchase on a point that retains more than 80% of its original shape.4
ANTIQUE PENCIL SHARPENERS: A REVERIE
An early example of hand-crank sharpener technology, the Planetary Pencil Pointer (ca. 1896) retains its power to astonish thanks to its exposed gears and iron construction. Using this device affords satisfactions no doubt familiar to certain participants in the Medieval Inquisition.
Your author’s favorite antique pencil sharpener dealer calls the Roneo Model 6 (ca. 1910) “a very distinctive and unique pencil sharpener and an absolute must for any serious pencil sharpener collection,” a verdict no sane man dare contradict. The massive base is actually a shavings receptacle, recommending this device for high-volume jobs. The Roneo is notable for being one of the first sharpeners to feature an extendable faceplate mechanism. It is further notable for looking unbelievable.
1 Most hand-crank sharpeners—even those without adjustment dials—feature a stopper at the far end of the shaping sleeve to prevent over-sharpening. Although this eliminates the occurrence of irregular pin-tips, it may entail a separate finishing process for those who want a perfect point.
2 The terms “spring-loaded intake mechanism” and “extendable stabilizing faceplate” will be used interchangeably in this chapter; both refer to the pencil sharpener’s spring-loaded, extendable intake stabilizing faceplate mechanism.
3 Remember, for this and every other form of pencil sharpening, the rule: Unexpected movement leads to loss of control; loss of control leads to inconsistency of blade engagement; inconsistency of blade engagement leads to a compromised pencil point.
4 Percentage is approximate and based on personal experience.
CHAPTER 8:
USING A MULTIPLE-HOLE, MULTIPLE-STAGE POCKET SHARPENER
EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST:
• Multiple-hole sharpener
• Dust mask (optional)
• Pencil
ANY POCKET SHARPENER WITH TWO HOLES IS, technically, a multiple-hole sharpener—but not necessarily a multiple-stage multiple-hole sharpener of the type within this chapter’s purview. A pocket sharpener with one #2-sized hole (5/16") and a second, larger hole is actually a “two-in-one” device, with the larger hole designed for oversized color pencils. As this book deals exclusively with #2 pencils, such a device is of no interest to us; any that cross your path may be freely discarded.
The multi-stage, multi-hole pocket sharpener offers more control in shaping the pencil point than the single-blade pocket sharpener. The single-blade device allows minimal flexibility, insofar as cedar and graphite are simultaneously honed by one blade at a set angle. The device covered in this chapter breaks the sharpening process into two discrete stages; once the graphite is exposed, the user decides how much of it to shape and with what intensity by calibrating its contact with the second blade.
Needless to say, taking up the multi-hole sharpener is recommended only to those users who have mastered the single-hole, single-blade sharpener discussed in Chapter 5.
STEP ONE: (FIRST STAGE) SHAPING THE COLLAR AND EXPOSING THE GRAPHITE CORE
(It is assumed the reader understands that cleaning the blades of debris is required before using the sharpener; refer to Chapter 5 if need be.)
As we are presented with two holes, we must choose our first with care. Fortunately, most devices (like the KUM/Palomino Long Point sharpener) clearly label the proper sequence of holes; others, like the Alvin Magnesium Triple Hole pencil sharpener (used for this chapter)1 indicate the proper sequence via their engineering—the hole with the longer blade is used first, with the second, shorter blade reserved for the finishing process (see below).
Insert the pencil into the first hole as if you were using a single-blade pocket sharpener, observing the same principles: sharpener stabilized against the thumb and forefinger; moderate forward and torsional pressure applied to the pencil shaft; steady rotation of the shaft against the blade; and close observation of the proceedings, with a mandate to abort the process in the event of catastrophe.
This initial process will feel, in its opening moments, identical to that associated with the single-blade pocket sharpener. The pencil shaft will move deeper into the body of the sharpener; shavings will flow from the slit between the blade and the sharpener casing; the odor of cedar will tickle the nostrils.
Continue until you are rewarded with the sight of unshaped graphite moving through the sharpener’s body and into the open air.
STEP TWO: MONITORING THE EGRESS, NOT OF SHAVINGS, BUT OF THE GRAPHITE CORE ITSELF!
There is nothing quite so amusing and poignant as a novice using a multiple-hole pocket sharpener in the manner of a single-blade pocket sharpener—that is, turning a pencil in the starter hole with the expectation of sharpening it entirely. Should you come across such a misguided specimen, loiter a moment in his or her company; you will be rewarded with shrieks of bewilderment as they watch an unsharpened graphite core make its way through the exit hole.
“Dear God!”
“What’s going on?” they will sob, “This sharpener doesn’t work! My pencil isn’t sharp at all!” Now is the time for intervention, as you place your hand on their shoulder and murmur, “Friend, you have made a delightful error in judgment. You see, the device you have in hand features two separate holes for different stages of the sharpening process. You have made use of the first hole—and competently, at that, for observe the fine collar shaped by your labors!—but now you must make use of the second. Don’t feel ashamed, as yours is a common mistake. The business card I have just slippe
d in your pocket contains my address, should you feel compelled to reimburse me for the kindness and consultation I have provided.”
Reiterate that, with the graphite core now freed from its cedar casing and exposed to the elements, it is primed for the discipline and focus of the second blade.
STEP THREE: REMOVING THE PENCIL FROM THE FIRST HOLE AND REVIEWING ITS STATUS BEFORE INSERTING IT INTO THE SECOND HOLE
Below is the admittedly unsettling image of our half-finished pencil: The collar has been shaped, but the graphite core remains untouched, having passed through the larger aperture of the first sharpening casement unscathed.
There are some for whom this blunderbuss will be sufficient, offering as it does the maximum diameter of the graphite core.2 Although there are wider marking surfaces available to pencil points, such surfaces require the pencil be applied at an acute angle to the page. Not so this battering ram: It offers its widest mark when deployed at a perfect right angle, which, in turn, means a minimal risk of breakage, as there is no oblique force acting against it.
“Wednesday’s child” … but not for long.
Of course, our goal is a sharpened pencil point in the traditional style, which demands tooling this recently exposed graphite rod. Thus are we compelled to put the pencil inside the sharpener’s second hole and begin its refinement—provided the length of the exposed core offers a canvas of sufficient size for our masterwork.3
STEP FOUR: (SECOND STAGE) SHAPING THE GRAPHITE