Day 53 (Weston sub Edge to Bledington - (16 miles)
I was treated to an amazing cooked breakfast by Lucy, and we then headed off south. We were now in the Cotswolds in the wealthy county of Gloucestershire, and the houses were certainly the smartest I’d seen on my travels so far. The start of the day was a sharp climb up to Chipping Campden, a classic Cotswold village, which looked unchanged from centuries past. Onwards took me to Moreton in Marsh, where I picnicked in the square watching the slow bustle of people going about their business. No-one was in the least fussed by Marv grazing on the verge at the centre of the village.
Marv in Chipping Camden and Moreton in Marsh Our next pit stop was a roadside rendezvous with Charlie the local farrier, who managed to track me down and who re shod Marv in a lay by. This was prearranged and we hoped this would be the last pair of shoes needed until the end.
Pit stop in a layby for new front shoes The last few miles today were not as picturesque as the morning, but we found Pebble Hill Stud just outside Bledington and I introduced myself. I had managed to secure a stable here for Marv through a former girlfriend of mine Sally, who worked there as a professional dressage groom. She was away on holiday, but her boss Jackie had said we could stay. The setup was high quality, and Marv received a huge box and feed to match. I was given keys to Sally’s flat above the stables and from it you could watch all the horses in their boxes through internal windows. It was ideal to keep a check on Marv. After a shower, Jackie and her boyfriend very kindly took me out to supper at a local popular Cotswold hostelry.
Day 54 (Bledington to Carterton - 14 miles)
The rain finally caught up with us, and it was on with the waterproofs soon after the off. We passed through Shipton under Wychwood and I grabbed some food for the both of us from the Post Office there. After lunch, I was heading into familiar territory again, as I had lived at Carterton three times in my life when my late father was posted to the Parachute Training School at RAF Brize Norton. So for 9 years this had been my home. I started to recognise the area as we approached Swinbrook. My father used to canoe here regularly (when I was young) to practice his slalom turns on a course of poles built by the weir next to the pub on the River Windrush. I had this poignant memory in mind when we passed the same spot 30 years later. No slalom gates now, but the weir and pool on the Windrush were still the same
A couple of miles further, and after crossing the busy A40, we reached Carterton (which is probably the least attractive town anywhere in the Cotswolds). It has grown massively due to the expansion of the nearby RAF base. It seems that half the town is made up of nasty pre-fabricated boxes serving as married quarters for RAF families. We had stayed in three of these quarters during our time there. I was to be staying in another one tonight, courtesy of my Army friend Chris and his wife Nicky.
(L) Stuck at the gate, (R) saying hello though the kitchen window Nicky was a navigator on VC10s at RAF Brize Norton, and so they lived in a married quarter together. Their house was identical to the ones we had lived in, so it was a bit surreal going back there. Marv was to be located in the back garden for the night. Unfortunately, Chris had just cut the grass, so we took Marv out to a local play area and let him loose so he could get an hour of proper grazing. Chris and I kept an eye on him and caught up over a gin & tonic. Once back in the garden, we opened the kitchen window and Marv spent the next hour with his head inside the house as we continued to catch up. All the local RAF kids had heard that Chris and Nicky had a horse in their garden and came to see Marv. Marv then came down the tight walkway by the side of the house and garage and stood at the side gate to see the kids out the front. However, he was then stuck and couldn’t reverse to the back garden, so I led him out and turned him round. Day 55 (Carterton to Shrivenham - 16 miles)
First thing in the morning we all rushed out to count how many poos Marv had done in their garden, as we had all guessed the number over dinner the evening before and Chris won with nine. We said our farewells and headed off out of town, on another familiar road, which in the past I had completed training runs on. The hamlets were still very pretty; Kencot, Langford and then the outskirts of Lechlade on Thames. Lechlade is almost the source of the River Thames, and a few years ago where I had started a trip to canoe the length of the Thames with Army mate Jody (a Gurkha officer). We only managed two days with one night’s bivi out, before bailing out at Oxford as our double canoe was taking on water.......something we may return to and complete one day.
Marv inspects a herd of curious cows After Lechlade it was a fairly flat and easy distance over to Watchfield, the village adjacent to the Royal Military College of Science (RMCS) at Shrivenham. Here we had a field organised for Marv courtesy of my good friend Dave. He was one of the colleagues who I had been riding with at Larkhill in our young Gunner officer training days. He was now a Major and was on his Staff officer’s course at the RMCS. As it was the weekend, he had kindly organised for me to use his room in the College. Dave had also promised to be there to meet me for the weekend, but alas on this occasion, Dave’s social life in London took priority.
I managed to get in the main gate of the camp, and found the field that the saddle club had organised. The camp was deserted, as all the military students head off at the weekends. After getting Marv sorted, I went off to find Dave’s room, and I thought that this might be a bit of a quiet weekend being here on my own. I got on the phone and called Army mate Matt who lived at nearby Upavon, and who I had booked in to stay with early next week. Matt was incredible. He would not hear of me staying at RMCS on my own, and drove up immediately to collect me. We spent half an hour picking ragwort from the field first, as I was paranoid about Marv not getting ill. Then it was back to his large married quarter to stay with his wife Fee and son Freddie for the weekend. It was such a welcome surprise to have Matt and his family for company and to be looked after so well. Through my limited press coverage, Marv’s adventure came to the attention of Pippa Winkworth, who was an equine physiotherapist. She lived in Sussex I think, and she had agreed to drive up to Shrivenham to give Marv a free back massage. Amazing! Matt drove me back up to Shrivenham, and then Pippa turned up after her long drive, and gave Marv an hour of rigorous equine sports massage treatment. Pippa commented afterwards that she was amazed how healthy and relaxed his back was after the many hundreds of miles. I thanked her profusely for the treatment, and was comforted in the knowledge that Marv’s back was sound. Pippa had just started her own business and was keen to use Marv’s treatment as a PR story, which I thought a great idea.
After Marv’s equine massage at Shrivenham Today was a fully relaxing one with the Sunday papers, and eating great food. I managed to do some trip admin and catch up with my diary for the week. It was great to be able to spend quality time with Matt and Fee and a very enjoyable weekend was had.
Enjoying his rest day too
Week 9 (64 miles) Week 9 (total 64 miles)
Day 58 (Shrivenham to Marlborough - 16 miles) We left Upavon early to drop Freddie at Nursery and then Matt dropped me back at RMCS. It was raining hard and the outlook didn’t suggest an improvement. We had stopped at the Co-op for carrots and apples to raise Marv’s damp spirits. Matt fed Marv under a tree for shelter, whilst I saddled him up. We were both cold and so as soon as we left camp I started running to warm us up. In full waterproofs this occurred quite quickly, and within a mile I had to take the leggings off. First stop was the local Post Office to send back my photo sim card and diary to Fi. A very considerate lady who had chatted to me in the Post Office then bought me a hot sausage roll with coffee and a snack for Marv. This was great for morale.
Off we trotted down the back lanes of Wiltshire and crossed over the M4 motorway. The rain held off and we utilised the scenic route of the Old Ridgeway, which led into the Marlborough Downs as we passed by Barbury Castle racecourse. The surrounding views were well worth the climb. It was clear that we were now entering prime real estate, as all around us were immaculate fields, smart fenci
ng, tree lined avenues and numerous gallops for training racehorses. Inspired by the equine theme I pushed Marv on with some long canters down the well maintained grass verges, pretending that we too were part of the racehorse fraternity.
(L) Crossing the M4, (C) view towards Marlborough, (R) near Barbury Castle A delightful meandering lane led us down to Temple Farm, nestled in its own private valley. If I recall correctly, Dave (whilst at RMCS) had managed to speak to fellow army officer Melissa at Shrivenham (as she was on his course). Melissa was into horses and knew Susie of Temple Farm, who kindly offered a stable for Marv. I was met by Sarah, Susie’s head groom, who offered a roomy stable and also the use of a field. She had a Parson Russell terrier, who I played with for at least half an hour, missing Maisie’s antics. I put Marv out for a while to get him some good grazing, before the heavens opened and I quickly moved him indoors for a drier evening. I was met by a friend Nicola, who had driven up from Reading with her boyfriend, to meet Marv. They took me out for dinner in Marlborough to hear about the trip and then dropped me back at Upavon. Day 59 (Marlborough to Larkhill - 22 miles)
Today, it was Fee who took me to Temple Farm with Freddie to start the day off. Marv and I headed out of Temple Bottom and up onto the Wessex Ridgeway, which doubled as a local gallop for Manton (a huge race yard once owned by Robert Sangster). We trooped down into the historic town of Marlborough and sauntered through with no one taking much notice, as they must be so used to horses in the area. Out the other side, it was a steep climb and a few miles on we reached a viewpoint where I could see stretched out before me the wide expanse of Salisbury Plain. This was a military training area I had spent some time on, and even today the Artillery were live firing, as I could hear the guns and see the shells exploding on the impact area in the distance. It was good to be back, and not in uniform.
I would be meeting up today with my good friend, and house mate from University, Heath. Heath had gone to Marlborough School and knew the area well, so it was fitting that he would be joining me today especially. He had driven down from Oxford, and we met at the pub at Wilcot, where he left his car, and we carried on with him in his running kit. Today was a relatively long day so we pushed on with the pace. This had to be interrupted by the obligatory pub lunch at Woodbridge on the A345. I got permission from the landlord to let Marv graze in the pub beer garden whilst Heath and I had a quick pint and food outside at a picnic table.
Heath has always been afraid of horses, and he slowly became more confident being around Marv. Soon after lunch I convinced him to have a short sit on Marv. Heath is 6ft 4” and 15 stone, and I could just imagine Marv’s thinking “you must be joking!” as I legged Heath up. Heath lasted only five seconds, as the girth was too loose. I ran back to catch Heath as he was swinging round Marv’s belly but still clinging on. A second attempt was more successful, and after Heath had broken his fear of horses, I remounted and we continued down the charming Avon valley on a minor road past numerous thatched cottages.
(L) Heath briefly rides Marv, (R) pit stop for a pint We came very close to Matt’s married quarter at Upavon and then through East Chisenbury and Longstreet, where we gave in again to the delights of the country pub for another shandy. At Netheravon, we crossed the river and main road to travel on the training area itself. By using the range road we approached Larkhill camp along the familiar dusty chalk tracks. Larkhill is the home of the Royal Artillery and where I really started to learn to ride. This felt a bit like a pilgrimage, going back to where it all began. We circled around the perimeter of the camp and entered by the main gate. Yet again, I had mixed feelings being back. This had been my home back in 1998, but I was no longer in the Royal Artillery yet still felt a very strong connection.
Where my love of riding really began – Royal School of Artillery stables, Larkhill We arrived at the RA stables on camp, and said hello to Sgt Taff Jeffries (of the King’s Troop) who was in charge of the stables. He was one of the Gun No.1s who had been with me at the Edinburgh Tattoo. We were shown Marv’s stable by two other soldiers who had been in Centre Section with me (Ben Moore and ‘Grandma’ Illingworth). Matt joined us after work, still in his uniform and we had a few photographs taken around Larkhill for Gunner magazine. Matt drove Heath back to his car and then we returned to Upavon for supper and an early night. This was easily one of the best days of the trip by far.
Day 60 (Larkhill to Fovant - 14 miles)
Matt dropped me off early back at Larkhill, before heading off to Wilton and work. I am deeply indebted to both Matt and Fee for being so incredible this week and going out of their way to accommodate me and Marv as we passed through the area. I fed and mucked out Marv, who had clearly been gonking (military term for sleeping) heavily, judging by the amount of shavings he was wearing when I arrived. As today was a short one, Taff and I caught up on King’s Troop news in his office and then we took some pictures in front of the Officer’s Mess which I will always treasure. We headed out the main gate and after a quick shop stop we took the track to Stonehenge.
(L) In front of the Officers Mess at Larkhill, (R) Marv gazes on Stonehenge Previously, when the King’s Troop was temporarily based up at Larkhill for a show, I had been out hacking alone on one charger with another in hand. It was at this location, on a track near Stonehenge that I had decided that cantering the two horses would be ok, as the track was in the middle of nowhere and was quite straight. However the two horses started racing and we were soon galloping along with no easy way of stopping. The busy A303 road was fast approaching and I did just manage to bring them back to a walk in time. I have no regrets over the incident as it was very exciting at the time.
This time though with Marv it was much more sedate. I had a rendezvous with another Army mate Jody. Jody had been in my Platoon at Sandhurst, he was a career soldier and probably should have won the Sword of Honour. He joined the Gurkhas, is very keen and green and may yet one day reach the rank of General. Jody met up with me at Great Wishford. Jody was in his running kit too, and had cycled over on his lunch break from nearby Wilton, to join me for a few miles and a pub lunch.
Some quick miles and lunch with Jody at Dinton It was great to catch up again and we made good time, as Jody also needed to do some training for a forthcoming 100km race on the South Downs. We had an outdoor lunch at Dinton, with Marv doing his customary graze about the beer garden. After the obligatory photo call, Jody ran the 10km back to his bike and I carried on the few remaining miles to Fovant.
Once at the village, I soon found Neil’s house. When Ellie (Neil’s wife) opened the front door Marv started to walk in to the house thinking that maybe it was his home for the night. We backed Marv up a bit and dropped off his saddle and bags, before walking him through the village to a local livery yard owned by Linda. Linda took great care of Marv for his two night stay in Fovant.
Neil was another Army mate, with whom I had survived Rowallan Company, then the Commissioning Course and finally the RA Young Officers’ course at RSA Larkhill together. I also joined Neil at the King’s Troop, as he had been posted there a year before me. Neil arrived straight from work in his uniform, and we thereafter spent the evening catching up. Neil showed me his two pigs which he had recently bought to go with his four chickens and two geese in his garden. Very Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall…. and they do look oddly similar too?
Day 61 (Fovant - day off to meet the Queen)
Today we (Neil, Ellie and I) were off to see the 60th anniversary of the King’s Troop parade which was being held in Hyde Park, London. Neil lent me the requisite suit and tie, and we drove to Twickenham, where we then caught a train into central London. We had lunch with Mike who was the vet when we were both serving with the King’s Troop, before walking over to take our positions adjacent to Park Lane. Major Erica Bridge led the King’s Troop parade which included a canter past in front of the Queen. Erica was the Adjutant when Neil and I were at the Troop. After the parade it was into the marquee for tea and sandwiches with members of the Troop, ex
Troop officers and the Queen, before heading back to Fovant after a memorable day. It was very fortuitous that I had been at Fovant at this particular time to enable the London visit to happen. Marv benefited from an extra day off mid-week, and it was great to catch up with friends in London mid trip.
(L) The King’s Troop RHA parades for the Queen in Hyde Park, (R) drinks afterwards with Rob (fellow Troop officer) and HRH
Day 62 (Fovant to Shaftesbury - 12 miles) I got up early to say goodbye and thanks to Neil as he left for work, before going back to bed to catch up on my diary. I didn’t have many miles to do today, and it was raining, and so no rush to leave. Ellie made me a superb breakfast with their own free range eggs. Les from Free N’ Easy arrived for my second en route saddle check. We headed round the corner to see Linda, and Les made some minor adjustments on Marv’s saddle. It was good to see Les again, who was down in the south west doing his regular customer care round trip.
(L) At the front door of Neil & Ellie’s house in Fovant, (R) at Gear’s Mill As my rendezvous tonight was not to be before 1700, I stayed around to have a surprise lunch with Neil again. After another great spread I nipped back to the yard to collect Marv. I returned on him bareback to collect his saddle and bags. He was fresh and certainly on his toes. So much so, that when Ellie was holding him whilst I loaded him up, he accidentally knocked her over and stood on her foot! Not a great way to say goodbye to such fantastic hosts. Marv was also so impatient to get going he broke his reins whilst tied up. I could see that Marv needed some work to settle him down again. His fitness was apparent and he wasn’t doing well being overly rested.
Long Trot Page 10