meunière, 58
normande’, 250–51
See also shellfish
Flanagan’s, Baker Street, 155
flour for breadmaking, 136–7
fondues, see cheese
fonduta, 14, 157, 281, 283
Fontina cheese, 118, 281
fools, fruit, 237–45, 246
Fowler, H.W., 14n.
Frampton, Judith, 232–4
France, food in
bread, 74, 76, 78, 203
butter, 262
cheeses, 70, 77, 156–8, 160–61, 261–2, 271–3
classic cookery, 176, 179, 182–3, 249–50
deterioration of restaurant cooking, 51, 66–70, 79–80, 149, 178
French attitudes, 47–9, 66, 263–7
French notions of English food, 62, 153–6, 241
genius for presentation, 266
markets of, 72–3, 76–8, 255–74
regional cookery, 250–52
regional specialities in Paris, 89–90
wines, 52, 58, 64–5, 71, 79, 82, 84, 271
See also restaurants
Franche-Comté cheese and fondue, 77, 157–8, 161 Freeman, Mrs Bobby: First Catch Your Peacock, 299
frittata con i loertis, 112
fromage normand, 253
fruit creams/fools, 237–45, 246
fruit, tampering with, 179
frying, 51, 220
funghi, 280–81
galantines of duck, 58, 62, 65
game
pheasant à la Hannibal, 132
à la Normande, 189–90
potted, 223–4
geoduck, 138
German cheeses, 15 8–9
Gigondas, 80, 82, 84
Gilbert, Philéas: La Cuisine de Tous les Mois, 287
gin, 190, 223
gingerbread, George Washington’s mother’s, 159
ginger cream, 290
Ginny (Guinea) pepper, 119n.
Glasse, Hannah: The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, 199, 240
glyka, 29
Go, 9, 17, 192–7
Goldsmith, Oliver, 198
Good Food Guide, 49
goose with chestnut and apples, 292–3
goose fat, 293
gooseberry
cream, 242
fool, 238, 239, 240–41
travesty of, 299
huff, 242
trifle, 240
Gourmet, 120–24, 249–53
Greek Anthology, the, 125, 133
Greek food, 22–3, 29, 151
Green, Patricia, 66
Greene, Graham, 125, 130
greengrocers in Britain, 47, 209
Grenfell, Joyce, 288
Grey, Diana, 106
grillade des mariniers du Rhône, 252, 273
grouper, 142
grouse, potted, 223–4
Guérard, Michel, 11
Cuisine Gourmande, 181–2, 184, 185n.
Guide Bleu 85
Guide Michelin, 49, 53–4, 63, 68–9, 84
ommissions, 88
red R, 69
unreliability of one-star quality, 56, 67, 79–81, 282
value at two-star hotels, 56–7
Guinness, 160
haddock, Arbroath smokies, 217–18
ham, potted, 222
Hamilton, Gerald, 164
Hamilton, Iain, 10
Hammond, Elizabeth: Modern Domestic Cookery, 238, 240
Hannibal, 272
Harper’s Bazaar, 9
Heath, Ambrose: Good Food, 190
Henry IV of France, 278
Henry VIII, 198
Herbal Review, The, 106–12
Herbert, Col. Kenney, 10
Herbodeau, Eugène, and Paul Thalamas: George Auguste Escoffier, 216
Hièly restaurant, Avignon, 79–81
Hill, Derek, 117, 119
Hill, Jason, 165
homard à l’américaine, 145, 179
honey, 285
tomato, 213
hop-shoots, 106–13
buds, no
hop-top soup, 111
omelette, 112
soup (zuppa di luppoli), 110–11
Hôtel du Midi, Lamastre, 53–63
House and Garden, 9–10, 85–7, 292–3
huff, 242n.
Hughes, Therle: Sweetmeat and Jelly Glasses, 237n.
ice cream, 240
ginger, 290
India, 10, 195
Inglis, Brian, 10
Irish coffee, 159–60
Italy
cheeses of, 118, 281
food of, 14, 98–9, 104, 106–13, 113–19, 280–83
wines of, 101–4, 117, 283
See also restaurants
jam, 29, 46–7, 151
rhubarb, 299
tomato, 212–13
James II, 269
James, Henry: A Little Tour of France, 72
Jewish cookery, 181–2
John Dory, 141, 191, 270
Johnson, Hugh, 17, 246
junket rennet, 206
Kaufeier, M., 39
Kent, Countess of: A Choice Manual, 243
Kettner’s, 195
kipper paste, 227
Kiwi fruit, 209n.
Laboureur, J.E., 164–6
La Chapelle, Vincent: The Modern Cook, 240n.
Lamastre, 53–62, 272
lamb
breast of, Ste. Ménéhould, 38–9
carré d’agneau Mistral, 250
gigot bouilli à l’anglaise, 153–4
undercooked by English standards, 60
Lancaster, Osbert, 126
Larousse Gastronomique, 301
Latini, Antonio: Lo Scalco alla Moderna, 119
La Varenne, François: French Cook, 241
Lawrence, D.H., 131
left-overs, 146, 153
Lehmann, John, 22
lemons, 198–201
cheese-cake, 200
curative properties, 201
curd, English, 199–200
grating, 199
juice, 198–9
pie, 200
preserved in cloves, 201
syllabub, 234
lentils, 198, 272
Levin, Bernard, 10
Llanover, Lady: Good Cookery, 161, 293–9
Llanover, Lord (Benjamin), 293
lobster, 187, 189
à l’américaine, 145, 179
cooking of, 32
Courchamps, 190–2
potted, 226–7
locust bread, 143
Lowinsky, Ruth: Lovely Food, 239–40, 246
Lowinsky, Thomas, 239, 246
Luke, Sir Harry: The Tenth Muse, 10, 150–51, 248
lump sugar, 199
luppoli (hop-shoots), 108, 110–11, 112
Lyon, 70–72
Lyons, J., & Co., 11–12
McGovern, William, 98n.
MacIver, Susannah: Cookery and Pastry, 238
Mackenzie, Faith Compton, 126
McLeod, Ian, 10
McNeill, Marian: The Scots Kitchen, 235
mangetout (sugar peas), 104
Manzoni, Alessandro, 112
markets in France, 72–3, 76–8, 255–74
Marples, Ernest, 148n.
Martigues, 267–70
Martino, Maestro: Epulario, 248
Mason, Mrs Charlotte: The Lady’s Assistant, 111
Maupassant, Guy de: Boule de Suif, 263
May, Robert: The Accomplisht Cook, 231–2, 238, 242–3
mayonnaise, 25–7, 191
mazapan, 96
Mediterranean, food of the, 22–4, 76–8, 94–7, 198, 208–10, 139–42, 208–10, 270
Mendl, Lady: Recipes for Successful Dining, 186
menus in Edwardian days, 194–7
Merle’s Domestic Dictionary and Household Manual, 226
Michelin, see Guide Michelin
Middle East, food of the, 21–5, 143, Midland Hotel, London, 192–4
Mikes, George, 19
milk chee
ses, see cheese
Miss Leslie’s Complete Cookery, 213
Mistral, Frédéric, 250
Montpellier, 263–5
Mont-St-Michel, 49
Moorish food, 143
Morra truffle paste, 282
Morris, Cedric, 165
Mortimer, Raymond, 15, 56
Muffet, Dr: Health’s Improvement, 108–9
mulberries, 247–9
and almonds, 248
cream, 242
as dessert fruit, 249
sauce (sapore di morone), 248
summer pudding, 247
water ice, 248
mullet, red, 133
Murrell, J.: A New Book of Cookerie, 110
museau de porc en salade, 253
mushrooms, 86–7
chanterelles, 33
cultivated, baked in vine leaves, 33–4
of Piedmont, 280–81
mussels, 14, 85–7, 89–90, 191
cleaning of, 88–9
croûtons a la marinière, 87
size of, 87
mutton, boiled, 153–4
Nantes, 13–14, 88–9, 275–8
Néo-Physiologie du Goût, 192n.
Newnham-Davis, Col., 192–7
Nicholas, Elizabeth, 17
Normandy, 49–50, 74, 86–7, 250–51, 253, 261–3
nouvelle cuisine, 11, 13
and Dr de Pomiane, 181–5
Nova, 9, 13, 17, 203–12, 219, 246
œufs à la neige, 80
olive oil, 26–7, 68, 83–4, 198, 275, 279, 284–5, 286
Oliver, Raymond, 156–7
olives, 96–7
black, of Provence, 47–8, 83–4, 260, 269
omelettes, 49–52
hop-shoot (frittata con i loerti), 112
Molière, 52
Orioli, Pino, 126
oules, 275
Owen, Mrs, of Penrhos, 244
oysters in wine, 132
pay all, 91–3
pain d’écrevisses sauce cardinal, 59, 61
Paris, 89–90, 149, 178
Park Railings, 39
partridge, potted, 223
Parmentier, Antoine, 77
pasta
draining of, 116
Norman Douglas on, 122, 123
spaghetti with chicken livers and lemon, 115–16
pastry, short, 200
peas, 59
mangetout (sugar peas), 104
Pellaprat, Henri, 88–9
Penzance, 30
Pepper, Beverly: Pot-Luck Cookery (review), 145–7
pepper, Ginny/Guinea, 119n.
peppers
preserved (conserva di peperoni), 113–15
salad, 78
Perrier, Bernard, 62–3
pesto sauce, 33
petits pois à la française, 59
Petits Propos Culinaires, 15, 66–74, 113–19, 247–9, 278–9
Petit Suisse cheeses, 262
pheasant
à la Hannibal, 132
à la Normande, 189–90
picarel, 141
Piccini, Giulia, 117–19
picnics in France, 72, 74, 184, 271–2
Piedmont, 14, 119, 280–83
pigeon, 143
pilchard, Cornish, 276
pimentos, see peppers
pipérade, 170
piperna, 119
Pisanelli, Dr B.: Trattato delta Natura dei Cibi, 109
pissaladière 76, 98–100
pizza, 76, 91–2
debasing of, 11, 25, 40
Sardenara casalinga, 98–9
Pomiane, Dr Edouard de, 175–85
Cooking with Pomiane, 181, 185
Cooking in Ten Minutes, 181, 184
La Cuisine en Plein Air, 184, 263–4
influence on nouvelle cuisine, 181–5
menus and recipes, 176–81
365 Menus, 365 Recettes, 176
pork
American spare-ribs, bread-crumbed, 39
loin, stuffed and rolled, 102–3
museau de porc (pig’s cheek) en salade, 253
noisettes de porc au pruneaux, 63–6
sausages, yellow, 132
Port-Salut, 161
Portuguese cooking, 210
Postgate, Raymond, 25
potatoes, poor varieties in England, 77, 195
pot-au-feu provençal, 257–60
potted fish and meat, 216–29
definition of, 221
chicken with ham, 222
chicken livers, 222–3
cod’s roe paste, 228
crab, 226
fish (pastes), 216–17, 225–8
game, 223–4
ham and chicken, 222
kipper paste, 227
lobster, 226
pork, 224
rillettes, 224
salmon, 225–6
salt beef, 222
sardine butter, 168–9, 227
serving, 219–20
shrimps, 217
smoked haddock paste, 227
smoked salmon butter, 227–8
storage, 218–19
tongue, 221
tunny fish butter, 228
venison, 222
‘Potter, A.’: Pottery, 216–17
Poulard, Annette (Mère), 49–50
poularde de Bresse, 59–60, 71
poularde en vessie, 59–60
poulet de grain, 62
poutargue, 269
Powell, Anthony: The Kindly Ones, 149
Praga, Mrs Alfred: Dainty Dinner Tables, 186–7
Price, Pamela Vandyke, 17
primeurs, 255–6
Proust, Marcel, 267
Provence
cookery/meals, 46–9, 51–2, 99–100, 210, 249–50, 255–60, 267–71
markets of, 76–8, 255–7, 267–70
restaurants of, 49, 79–81
wines of, 52, 82, 83–5
prunes, 63–6, 242–4
Prunier, Mme, 12
public relations persons, 10–11, 12, 25, 27–9, 36, 39, 156–157, 159, 209, 286, 288
pulses, 198, 259
Punch, 11, 39–41
quails à la normande, 35
Queen, 246
quiche, 11, 25, 39–40, 70
quince fool, 244
rabbit, cost of in Provence, 79
Raffald, Elizabeth: The Experienced English Housekeeper, 222, 225–6, 234
ras el hanoot, 143
raspberry
cream, 242
fool, 238
summer pudding, 247–8
ravioles, 77–8
Ray, Cyril, 9, 10, 14, 66
redcurrant
fool, 239
summer pudding, 247–8
red mullet, 133
Renaudet, Benjamin: Les Secrets de la Bonne Table, 153–6
restaurants
IN BRITAIN, 41–8, 80, 148–9, 155, 165, 172–4, 192–7, 209–11, 217–18, 219, 266, 294, 299
See also names of individual restaurants
IN FRANCE, 41, 46–7, 49–84, 86, 88–90, 143–5, 149, 156–7, 165–6, 170, 178, 189, 203–4, 209, 271
Au Caneton, Orbec, 263
Chez Maria, Paris, 89
L’Escale, Carry-le-Rouet, 269
Esplanade, Rians, 49
Hièly, Avignon, 79–81
Hôtel du Midi, Lamastre, 53–63
Hôtel de la Poste, Duclair, 261
Mère Brazier, Lyon, 70
La Sirène, Nantes, 88
Soleil d’Or, Montignac, 271
IN ITALY
Buoi Rossi, Alba, 283
Cipriani, Torcello, 106–7
Romano’s, Burano, 107
restaurants, origin of, 145
Rhône, 58, 272–3
rhubarb
fool, 245
jam, 299
rice, Italian, 110, 118
riso in bianco, 119
riso ricco, 117–18
riso secco, 118–19
Richard III, 288
rillettes, 221, 224
‘rillettes écossaises’, 217–18
ris de veau, 59
risotto, hop-shoot, 107, 109, 110, 112
Ritz, César, 195–6
Ritz Hotel, 192, 194–5
Robertson, Jean, 10
Romano’s, London, 192
Rome, 109–10
Ross-on-Wye, 20–21
Roubaud, Château, 82
Rouff, Marcel, 250–51
rum, white, 190, 223
Russell, Leonard, 15–17, 135, 147
Sacchi, Bartolomeo: De Honesta Voluptate, 248
saffron, 97, 129, 284
Saint-Ange, Mme: Livre de Cuisine, 35, 169
Saintsbury, George, 223
salade niçoise, debasing of, 40, 251
salads, 178, 292
green, 139
museau de porc en salade, 253
salade de pois chiches, 259
tomato, 95–6, 208, 210
salmon, potted, 225–6
salt beef, potted, 222
salt duck, Welsh, 294–7
sardenara casalinga, 98–100
sardines, 275–9
butter, 168–9, 227
American/Canadian/Norwegian, 276
sauces
aioli, 259–60
apple, 35–7
cheese, 117–18
coulis de tomates à la moutarde, 260
Courchamps, 191–2
cream, 273
for fish, 190–92
mayonnaise, debased, 25–7
mulberry, 248
pesto, 33
tomato, 118–19, 212, 260
au vin de Médoc, 66
saucisse en feuilletage, 61
sausages, yellow, 132
Savoy Hotel, 192, 195–6, 214
scallops, 182–3, 191
Scappi: Opera, 109n.
Scott, Sir Walter, 234
Scottish food, 234–5, 238
Scott-James, Anne, 14n.
Scurfield, G. and C: Home Baked (review), 135–7
Seneca, 127
Senn, Herman, 26–7, 306–7
shad with sorrel, 64–5
shellfish
anisette liqueur with, 190–91
crab, 32–3
lobster
à l’américaine, 145, 179
Courchamps, 191–2
mussels, 14, 85–90, 87
oysters in wine, 132
pain d’écrevisses sauce cardinal, 59, 61, 62
potted, 226–7
scallops, 182–3, 191
shortbread, almond, 245–6
short cakes, Gwent, 294, 298
Simon, André, 16, 17, 166–7, 217, 309
Simpson, John: Complete System of Cookery, 288, 290
Simpson, N.F.: One Way Pendulum, 22
Simpson’s, Strand, 192
Smith, E.: Complete Housewife, 231
smoked fish pastes, 227, 228
Smollétt, Tobias, 134, 136
sole
meunière, 58
normande, 250–51
soups
au fromage, 158
hop, 110–11
thickened with bread, 18
vegetable, too thick in England, 59
vichysoisse, 40
zuppa di luppoli, 108, 110–11
Soyer, Alexis, 154, 305
spaghetti with chicken livers and lemon, 115–17
Spain, 92, 93, 94–7, 208
Spectator, 9–11, 14, 19–39, 41–8, 82, 94–7, 137–41, 148–56, 185–7, 275–8, 283–6, 300–303
An Omelette and a Glass of Wine Page 37