An Omelette and a Glass of Wine

by Elizabeth David

  spiced beef, 288–90

  spices, 284

  spinach à la crème, 273–4

  spirits in cookery, 187–92, 223

  Star and Garter, Richmond, 194

  Stevenson, Robert Louis, 237

  stock, indiscriminate use of, 167–8, 296

  stock-pots, 296, 306

  stout, in cooking, 160

  store cupboard, 22–5, 27–9, 146, 216–17

  strawberry

  cream, 242

  fool, 238

  style moderne, see nouvelle cuisine

  sugar, lump, 199

  summer pudding, 247–8

  Sunday Dispatch, 9

  Sunday Times, 9, 10, 11, 15, 98–100, 134–7, 143–5, 147, 175–81, 184

  Sutcliffe, Mrs Dorothy, 36–7

  Suzanne, Alfred: La Cuisine Anglaise, 154–5

  sweetbreads, 59

  Swinburne, Algernon, 300

  Swiss food, 25, 157, 179–80

  syllabub, 229–37, 241

  synagrida, 142

  synthetic foodstuffs, 25–9, 40–41, 158, 217, 229–30, 264

  of the war years, 11, 19

  table decoration, 185–7, 239–40, 306–7

  taramasalata, 227, 228

  tarragon, 153, 191–2

  Thalamas, Paul, see Herbodeau, Eugène

  Thompson, Sir Henry, 136

  thyme, 119

  tinned food, see canned food

  tomatoes, 208–16

  canned, 24, 211, 212, 216

  coulis de tomates à la moutarde, 260

  à la crème, 178

  crushed, 214–16

  honey, 213

  jam, 171, 212–13

  judicious use of, 119, 208, 211

  Mediterranean, 95–6, 208

  poor varieties in England, 47, 208–9

  salad, 95–6, 208, 210

  sauces, 118–19, 210, 211, 212, 260

  tongue, potted, 221

  Toulouse-Lautrec, Mapie de, 161

  Tours, 63–6

  tourte à la creme, 78

  tranches au fromage, 180

  Tree, Herbert Beerbohm, 229

  trifles, 229–30, 237, 240, 241, 245

  tripe, 39

  trucs de bonne femme, 17–18

  True Gentlewoman’s Delight, 243

  truffles, 14, 249, 280–83

  tuna/tunny fish butter, 228

  Turner, E.S.: What the Butler Saw, 148

  Tuscany, 113–19

  Unexpected guests, 28–9, 146

  utensils, 50–51, 199, 217, 294

  Uzès, 75–8, 81

  Valence, 271–3

  Vauduse, 81, 82–5, 255

  veal

  braised with carrots, 169

  kidneys à la liégeoise, 190

  vegetables

  Dr de Pomiane and, 178, 180–84

  primeurs, 255–6

  served before roast, 170–71

  sweetness of, 103–4

  Venice, 106–8, no, 112–13, 141

  venison, potted, 222

  Verdier, Ernest: Dissertations Gastronomiques, 211

  vichysoisse, crème, 40

  Viel, Robert, 50

  vieille prune, 271

  vine leaves and cultivated mushrooms, 33–4

  Vogue, 9, 16, 53–66, 115n., 255–75, 287–90

  vongole, 29, 87

  Vorarlberg, 133–4

  Wall’s products, 11–12, 27–8

  walnut jam, 29

  Walsingham, Piccadilly, 194–5

  wartime and rationing, 11, 19–21, 24, 137, 159, 216

  water ice, mulberry, 248

  Waugh, Evelyn: Black Mischief, 46

  Weber’s Café, Paris, 145, 156

  Welsh food, 161, 293–9

  Welsh rabbit, French, 159, 161

  Westbury, Lord: Handlist of Italian Cookery Books, 248

  whisky in cooking, 187–90

  White, Sam, 149

  Whitehom, Katharine, 10

  Wilbraham, Anne, see Drummond, J.C.

  Willy (Henry Gauthier-Villars), 162, 164

  wine

  dessert and sweet, 84–5, 104–5, 117

  and cheese dishes, 52

  and egg dishes, 51

  of France, 52, 58, 64–5, 71, 79, 82, 84, 271

  glasses, refilling, 129–30

  of Italy, 101–4, 117, 283

  sur place, 65

  temperature of, 42, 102–3

  and vegetables, 103–4

  and women, 16, 47, 127

  Wine and Food, 53, 124–133, 156–74, 198–201, 293–9, 300–309

  Wine and Food Society, 216

  Quarterly, 17

  Withers, Audrey, 9, 16–17, 53, 55

  Woollams, John, see Collingwood, Francis

  Yellow sausage, 133

  Young, Barbara, 234

  Yvetot, 262

  Zuliani, M.S. de: A Tola Co i Nostri Veci, 112

  zuppa di luppoli, 108, 110–11