by John Fisher
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Pireás transport
The metro takes about twenty minutes from Omónia to Pireás. Bus #40 (every 10min 5am–midnight, hourly 1–5am) runs to and from Sýndagma; #49 from Omónia (every 15min 5am–midnight, hourly 1–5am). Bus #904 runs from near the metro to Zéa Marina, trolley-bus #20 to Mikrolímano. Taxis cost €6–7 at day-tariff from the centre of Athens – worth considering, especially if you’re heading for Zéa Marina or Mikrolímano, which are a long walk from the metro.
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Pireás Archeological Museum
Hariláou Trikoúpi 31 tel 210 45 21 598. Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm; €3.
An excellent little museum, many of whose displays were dragged from the harbour bed. Specially good are the second-century-AD stone reliefs of battles between Greeks and Amazons, apparently mass-produced for export to Rome; and a huge grave monument that’s more like a miniature temple. The star of the show, however, must be the bronze kouros (idealized male statue) of Apollo; dating from 530–520 BC, this is the earliest known life-size bronze.
Glyfádha and around
The southern suburbs of Athens form an almost unbroken line along the coast all the way from Pireás to Vouliagméni, some 20km away. This is Athens’ summer playground, and the centre of it - for shopping, clubbing, dining or posing on the beach – is Glyfádha and its neighbour Voúla. At weekends half of Athens seems to head down here. The epicentre is around the crescent of Leofóros Angélou Metáxa, which curves away from the coast road by Glyfádha’s main square. Virtually all the beaches here, and certainly all the more pleasant ones, charge for entry and offer all manner of activities: for a quiet swim it’s better to continue to Kavoúri or Vouliagméni, where you still have to pay but the atmosphere is much more serene. Vouliagméni itself is very upmarket, its beautiful cove beaches a traditional hang-out of Athens’ rich and famous. There is also pleasant (and free) swimming to be enjoyed from the rocks between here and the resort of Várkiza, the last stop for the local buses.
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Glyfádha transport
From central Athens take bus #A2 (which continues to Voúla), #E2 express, #A3 or #B3: all of them leave from Akadhimías. For other beaches along the coast, transfer onto local services #114 (Glyfádha–Kavoúri–Vouliagméni) or #115/6 (Glyfádha–Vouliagméni–Várkiza). The new coastal tram line should also start running in 2004, from Fáliro to Glyfádha.
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Shops
Central Prince Oliver
Angélou Metáxa 23, Glyfádha.
Upscale designer gear, predominantly for men.
Ensayar
Angélou Metáxa 22 & 24–26, Glyfádha.
Men’s and women’s fashion in two shops (one apiece) from designer names such as Dolce and Gabanna, and Voyage. This street is lined with similar, if less glitzy, places.
Gallé
Kolokotróni 10, Kifissiá.
Fashion store with clothing, accessories and shoes from the likes of Paul Smith and Givenchy as well as local designers. Marginally easier on the wallet than neighbours like Gucci and Kenzo.
Glou Exclusive
Koloktróni 9, Kifissiá.
In the very heart of the Kifissiá shopping area, this Greek men’s fashion chain is reasonably priced, though the Exclusive bit of the name indicates that it’s only the upper end of their range on offer here.
Kaloyirou
Panayítsas 5, Kifissiá; Kýprou 72, Platía Espéridhon, Glyfádha.
Long-established designer shoe store (also with branches downtown). Men’s and women’s ranges, from Prada to Miu Miu, are stocked.
Li-La-Lo
Grigoríou Lambráki 16, cnr Angélou Metáxa, Glyfádha.
Big, glitzy jewellery store specializing in silver.
Preview
Panayítsas 6, Kifissiá.
Designer footwear – good range of lesser-known brands, though still expensive.
Cafés
Ammonites Café-Restaurant
Othónos 100, in the Gaia Centré Goulandhrís Museum complex, Kifissiá.
Relaxed and luxurious, but the sandwiches and light meals here come with a hefty price tag.
Déja Vu Lifestyle Café
Platía Kefalaríou, Kifissiá.
The name says it all – come here to see and be seen while lingering over your cappuccino freddo or salad lunch.
MoBi
Adhrianoú cnr Dhragoúmi, Kifissiá.
Right opposite the metro station, this is a handy place to stop for a quick coffee and a sandwich.
Varsos
Kassavéti 5, Kifissiá.
This old-fashioned patisserie specializing in home-made yogurts, jams and sticky cakes is a Kifissiá landmark, acting as a meeting place for the whole neighbourhood.
Restaurants
Akhinós
Aktí Themistokléous 51, Pireás tel 210 45 26 944.
Wonderful seafood and traditional Greek specialities served on a covered terrace overlooking a small beach just round the corner from the Naval Museum. Pricey if you go for the fish, but less so than harbourfront alternatives. Book at weekends.
Akti
Possidhónos 6, Vouliagméni tel 210 89 60 448.
Taverna right by the sea serving simple, fresh seafood. As ever, fish is expensive but then so is Vouliagméni and by those standards, Akti is good value. Waterfront tables are in great demand, so booking is essential.
Al Mawal
Marangoú 18, Glyfádha tel 210 89 44 227.
The best-value Lebanese restaurant in Glyfádha – authentic food and atmosphere, with belly dancers on Saturday nights.
Beer Garden Ritterburg
Ethnikís Andístasis 214, Kessarianí tel 210 72 22 235. Closed Sun.
Handily situated right at the top of Kessarianí on the main road, this German-themed places serves Schnitzels, sausages and Bavarian specialities, best sampled on a variety plate.
Buffalo Bill
Kýprou 13, Glyfádha tel 210 89 43 128. Eves only, plus Sun lunchtime; closed Sun July–Aug.
Get into the Glyfádha mood at this lively, mid-priced Tex-Mex joint. As you’d expect, there are steaks and chilli on offer, plus margaritas by the jugful.
Dos Hermanos
Kyriazí 24, Kifissiá tel 210 80 17 337. Closed Mon.
Good Mexican food and tasty margaritas in a lively, late-opening bar-restaurant, though with expensive Kifissiá prices.
Hard Rock Cafe
Etolikoú 28 cnr Papastrátou, Pireás tel 210 41 36 750.
Burgers and beers in what seems an unusual location for a branch of the international chain. In fact, this industrial district behind the port is becoming something of a nightlife hot spot, and this is the place to go before moving on to the clubs.
Island
Limanakia Vouliagménis, km27 on Athens-Soúnio road between Vouliagméni and Várkiza tel 210 96 53 563. Summer eves only.
The place to be seen, this bar-restaurant has a magnificent view (if you get a table at the front), simple island decor, and an international menu at international prices. It serves everything from sushi to steak, plus fine wines, and you’ll need to book.
Jimmy and the Fish
Aktí Koumoundhoúrou 46, Mikrolímano, Pireás tel 210 41 24 417.
Excellent, glamorous and inevitably expensive fish taverna occupying the prime position among the harbourside places on Mikrolímano. Booking essential at weekends.
Katsarina
Kifissías 311, Kifissiá tel 210 62 54 072. Closed Wed.
Excellent at the basics – grilled meat and plain Greek dishes. There’s something of a crowd of (mainly Greek) restaurants on this stretch of Leofóros Kifissías, about 700m north of Platía Platánou.
Masa
Ethnikís Andístasis 240, Kessarianí tel 210 72 36 177. Closed Mon.
Straightforward, inexpensive Greek taverna with good, simple food and barrel wines.
Monippo
Dhrosíni 12, Kifissiá tel 210 62 31 440.
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Wide range of mezédhes from all over Greece and smart, modern decor make this a typical Kifissiá hangout. It’s better value than most, though, and often has music on Friday and Saturday nights.
Iy Orea Mykonos
Kilkís cnr Sfakión, Kastella, Pireás.
The hill above Mikrolímano has great views and many restaurants popular with locals. This simple island-style fish taverna, near the open-air theatre, is one of the best, and significantly cheaper than the same fare on the waterfront.
Sotis
Konstantinoupóleos 9, Glyfádha tel 210 89 42 268.
Greek taverna standards at reasonable prices in this elegantly decorated place right at the heart of Glyfádha’s restaurant strip, just off the main square.
TGI Fridays
Koloktróni 35, Platía Kefalaríou, Kifissiá tel 210 62 33 947.
Archetypal Kifissiá: burgers, ribs and mobile phones all round, but considerably classier than the average branch of this chain.
Time
Skouzé 14, Pireás tel 210 42 85 937.
The cosmopolitan nature of Pireás is very much in evidence here: this authentic, inexpensive Indo-Pakistani restaurant caters largely to locals, in the midst of a small ethnic and red-light quarter.
Trata
Platía Anayeníseos 7–9, Kessarianí tel 210 72 91 533. Closed Aug.
Well-known fish restaurant on a square with several tavernas just off Ethnikís Andístasis. Fish is always pricey in Athens, but this is good value.
Vincenzo
Yiannitsopoúlou 1, Platía Espéridhon, Glyfádha tel 210 89 41 310.
Fine, reasonably priced Italian fare, including excellent pizzas from a wood oven.
To Voliótiko 1911
Goúnari 9, Pireás tel 210 42 25 905.
Traditional Greek taverna right in the heart of the port area. Gastronomy isn’t this area’s forte, but this is good value, and a good option if you’re waiting for a ferry.
Bars
Action Folie
Aktí Dhilavéri 9–11, Mikrolímano, Pireás tel 210 41 74 325.
Café-bar that’s open all day and most of the night, every day. The tables outside make a good place to check out all the action of this buzzing nightlife area.
Appaloosa
Aktí Koumoundoúrou 62, Mikrolímano, Pireás tel 210 42 20 138.
A pub-bar that’s open all day and late into the night. Terrace seating on the waterfront, and a menu as varied as cheese fondue, souvlaki and spaghetti, plus breakfasts and Murphy’s stout.
Sofa Café
Possidhónos 32, Glyfádha tel 210 98 16 092.
Tranquil café-bar, with ambient music in the evenings, a popular place to chill out among the big clubs along the seafront boulevard.
Sussex Inn
Dhousmáni 8–10, Glyfádha tel 210 89 41 736.
An English Pub right in the heart of Glyfádha – with dartboard, rock music, Caffrey’s and a quiz night every Thursday.
Tesseres Epohes
Platía Ayíou Dhimítriou 13, Kifissiá tel 210 80 18 233.
An unpretentious little bar where you can enjoy drinks, snacks, and excellent, unamplified live Greek music.
Clubs
New York Summer
Ethnárkhou Makaríou 10, Fáliro, near Stádhio Filías & Irínis tel 210 48 34 190.
Oriental in decor, the music remains firmly Western, with popular dance sounds as well as Greek hits.
Sidera Fire Club
Egáleo 21 cnr Mesolongíou, Pireás tel 210 46 12 777.
Big club with three bars and a mix of music from Greek to modern dance.
Studio 54
Ríbas 1, Várkiza tel 210 96 56 150.
Recently reinventing itself into one of the hot spots in this buzzing seaside suburb, Studio 54 plays standard dance vibes.
Venue
Km 30 on the Athens–Soúnio road, Várkiza tel 210 89 70 333.
Venue’s lush setting and eclectic selection of dance music – including some Greek – attracts a young crowd.
Attica
Attica (Attikí), the region encompassing the capital, is not much explored by tourists – only the great romantic ruin of the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Soúnio is well-known. Yet a trip out here makes for a pleasant break, with much of Greece in microcosm to be seen within an hour or two of the capital. There’s mountainside at Párnitha, rewarding archeological sites in Brauron and Ramnous, and, if the heat is getting to you, plenty of beaches too. Combine a couple of these with a meal at one of the scores of seaside psarotavernas (fish restaurants), always packed out on summer weekends, and you’ve got a more than worthwhile day out.
Cape Soúnio
A dramatic vantage point from which to look out over the Aegean,Cape Soúnio(Akrotíri Souníou)has for centuries been a landmark for boats sailing between Pireás and the islands. On its tip stands the captivating Temple of Poseidon (Tues–Sun 10am–sunset; €5), the heart of what was once a major sanctuary to the sea god. Doric in style, it was built in the time of Pericles, probably by the architect of the Hephaisteion in the Athens Agora. It owes much of its fame to Byron, who visited in 1810, carved his name on the nearest pillar (an unfortunate and much-copied precedent) and immortalized the place in verse. The setting is wonderful – on a clear day the view takes in the islands of Kéa, Kýthnos and Sérifos to the southeast, Égina and the Peloponnese to the west – and the temple’s picturesque semi-ruined state makes this as evocative a site as any in Greece. Come early or late, though, if you want to avoid the crowds.
The rest of the site is of more academic interest. There are remains of a fortification wall around the sanctuary; a propylaion (entrance hall) and stoa; cuttings for two shipsheds; and the foundations of a small Temple of Athena. The port of Lávrio, a little further round the coast, has numerous cafés and restaurants, as well as a one-room Archeological Museum (Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–3pm; free) with finds from the site.
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Attica transport
Soúnio buses depart on the hour and half-hour from the KTELterminal on Mavrommatéon at the southwest corner of the Pedhíon Áreos Park; there’s also a more central (but in summer, very full) stop ten minutes later on Filellínon, south of Sýndagma at the corner of Xenofóndos. There are both coastal (paraliakó) and inland (mesoyiakó) services, the latter slightly longer and more expensive. The coast route normally takes around two hours; last departures back to Athens are posted at the Soúniostop.
There are frequent buses to Rafína (40min) and several a day to Marathónas (many via the beaches at Skhiniás), Loútsa and Pórto Ráfti (Pórto Ráfti buses sometimes give the final destination as Avláki).
For Vravróna it’s easiest to go to Loútsa, and then transfer to the local bus that plies up and down the coast road: this bus stops right outside the site (look for the Club Med, directly opposite) and terminates just beyond. Ramnous is not realistically accessible by public transport, though you should get a lift for the final few kilometres if you take a bus to Ayía Marína (several daily) and hitch from the junction.
Buses to Párnitha run from Platía Váthis twice daily, at 6.30am (6.40am weekends) and 2.30pm, with extra services on Sunday at 8am and 3.40pm. Buses to Fylí also leave from Platía Váthis.
For Eleusis take bus #A16 from Platía Eleftherías, on Pireós. Ask to be dropped at the “Heroön” (Sanctuary), to the left of the main road, a short way into Elefsína. A trip to Eleusis is easily combined with Dhafní, which you pass on the way.
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The east coast: Rafína to Pórto Ráfti
The east coast is a favourite weekend and holiday escape for jaded Athenians. The main route out of the city heads straight for the little port of Rafína, from where you can head off to numerous islands, including nearby Évvia. Boats aside, the appeal of the place is mainly gastronomic: the little fishing harbour’s line of roof-terrace seafood restaurants is one of the most inviting spots on Attica’s coast, with views of the comings and goings of the por
t a free extra.
There are local beaches in easy walking distance, and others, all with more seafront dining, further away along the coast. To the north, en route to Marathon or Ramnous, Néa Mákri lies at the heart of a string of small beach developments. South, there’s continual development down through Loútsa to Vravróna. Pórto Ráfti, just beyond, is more attractive, with a scattering of popular waterfront restaurants and, in summer, a thriving nightlife scene.
Marathon
The site of the most famous and arguably most important military victory in Athenian history is not far from the village of Marathónas, 42km from Athens. Here, in 490 BC, a force of 9000 Athenians and 1000 of their Plataian allies defeated a Persian army 25,000 strong. After the victory a runner was sent to Athens to declare the news: having run the first marathon, he delivered his message and dropped dead.
Just 192 Athenians died in the battle (compared to some 6000 Persians), and the burial mound where they were laid, the Týmvos Marathóna (Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm; €3), can still be seen, off the road between Rafína and Marathónas. Consisting only of overgrown earth piled ten metres high, now rather overgrown and neglected, it is a quietly impressive monument. The Mound of the Plataians,where the eleven Plataians (including a ten-year-old boy) who died were laid to rest, is about 5km away near the edge of the mountain; there’s also an archeological museum here (Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm; €3), with a sparse collection of artefacts, mainly from the local Cave of Pan, a deity felt to have aided the victory.
Marathónas village itself has plenty of places to eat, but there are many more attractive options if you head for the coast.
Skhiniás
Skhiniás, a long, pine-backed strand with shallow water, is one of the best free beaches within easy reach of Athens. Big enough to allow some chance of escaping the crowds, its southern parts are relatively developed, with a number of cordoned-off pay-beach sections and beach clubs offering showers, umbrellas and watersports. Further north there’s far less development apart from scattered tavernas on the sand.
Ramnous