by John Fisher
The theatre, however, is just one component of what was one of the most important sanctuaries in the ancient world, dedicated to the healing god Asklepios. A place of pilgrimage for half a millennium, from the sixth century BC into Roman times, it’s now a World Heritage site. Close by the theatre is a small museum, which is best visited before you explore the rest of the sanctuary – most of the ruins visible today are just foundations, so calling here helps identify some of the former buildings.The finds displayed show the progression of medical skills and cures used at the Asklepion; there are tablets recording miraculous cures alongside advanced-looking surgical instruments.
Náfplio
A lively, beautifully sited town, Náfplio exudes a grand, slightly faded elegance, inherited from the days when it was the fledgling capital of modern Greece in the early nineteenth century. The postcard-pretty old town, with its paved and mostly pedestrianized streets, has an abundance of colourful and tastefully decorated restaurants and handicraft shops, and there’s a pleasant buzz that you don’t often witness in Greek towns. For the fit, the climb up to the twin fortresses of Palamídhi (daily: summer 8am–7pm; winter 8am–6.30pm; €4),out on the headland and overlooking the old town, is well worth the effort. The town’s third fort, the stunning Boúrtzi, occupies the Ayíou Theodhórou islet offshore from the harbour, and was built in 1473 by the Venetians to control the shipping lane to the town and to much of Árgos bay.
Café life – swelled at weekends by crowds of visiting Athenians – reaches the heights of urban chic in the well-patronized cafés lining the palm-tree fringed western seafront of Bouboulínas. Things are quieter on Platía Syndágmatos, where places stay open late.
Youcan get to Náfplio by bus or – much slower but much more attractive – by twice-daily train. Both bus and train stations are within a 500m walk of the old town precinct.
Tiryns
Daily: summer 8am–7pm; winter 8.30am–3pm. €3.
In Mycenaean times the ancient fortress of Tiryns (Tíryntha) commanded the coastal approaches to Árgos and Mycenae. The Aegean shore, however, gradually receded, leaving this impressive structure stranded on a low hillock in today’s plains, surrounded by citrus groves, alongside a large modern prison. The setting is less impressive than that of its showy neighbour Mycenae,which in part explains why this highly accessible, substantial site is relatively empty of visitors; the opportunity to wander about Homer’s “wall-girt Tiryns” in near-solitude is worth taking. The site lies just to the east of the main Árgos–Náfplio road, and frequent local buses drop off and pick up passengers outside.
Mycenae
Tucked into a fold of the hills just east of the road from Kórinthos to Árgos, the citadel at Mycenae (Mykínes) (daily: summer 8am–7pm; winter 8.30am–3pm; €6) bears testament above all to the obsession of the German archeologist Heinrich Schliemann (who also excavated the site of Troy) with proving that the tales of Homer had their basis in fact.
The extensive site is made up of two parts – the citadel itself and the Treasury of Atreus. The most visually arresting part of the citadel is the Lion Gate, whose huge sloping gateposts and walls were considered Cyclopean by later Greeks, who could only imagine that a Cyclops could have constructed them. Beyond the Lion Gate is an impressive Grave Circle known as “A” and originally thought by Schliemann to be the actual tomb of Agamemnon. It was here that the famous gold death mask was found in 1876. The rest of the site is scattered over the hillside, while just down the road is the tremendously impressive Treasury of Atreus, which is what is now described as the Tomb of Agamemnon. This was certainly a royal burial vault at a late stage in Mycenae’s history, so the attribution to Agamemnon or his father is as good as any. Whoever it might have belonged to, this beehive-like structure is an impressive monument to Mycenaean building skills.
Égina
Barely an hour and a half from Pireás, the rural island of Égina can easily be visited in a day. Most visitors spend their day ambling around the boat-packed waterfront or through the back streets of the island’s main town – also called Égina. Making use of the decent local bus service, you could also head for the exceptionally well-preserved, beautiful fifth-century BC Temple of Afaia (Mon–Fri 8.15am–7pm daily; €4), which stands in lonely vigil at the northeastern corner of the island; or the low-key fishing village of Pérdhika with its cosy harbour and fish tavernas that are often frequented by Athenian yachties; or perhaps the east coast resort village of Ayía Marína.
There’s a good selection of accommodation in the port of Égina, and plenty of good tavernas – restaurants here tend to specialize in fish, usually rather cheaper than in Athens or Pireás. The island is also a big producer of pistachio nuts, and during the summer months you can see the orchards around the island laden with them.
Transport to and from the island is frequent and good; you’ve a choice of ferries or hydrofoils, and advance booking is unnecessary – just turn up at the ferry quay in Pireás and buy a ticket from the booths.
Angístri
Just one hour’s ferry trip from Pireás – or fifteen minutes from Égina – Angístri is small enough to be explored on foot, from the port of Skála to the delightful little bay, beach and hamlet of Apónisos, with its two tiny offshore islets. On the way you’ll pass Mýlos (Megalokhóri) and the small farming community of Limenária, set at the edge of a fertile plateau in the southeast corner of the island.
There’s a decent sandy beach at Skála, though you may find a little more seclusion at Halikádha pebble beach (clothing optional), backed by crumbling cliffs and pine-covered hills on the east side of the island.
Póros
Separated from the mainland by just a 450-metre strait, Póros (The Ford) is in fact two islands: Sferiá (occupied almost entirely by Póros Town), and the much more extensive Kalávria. Its proximity to Pireás means it’s hugely popular, making Póros Town, which is exceptionally picturesque, a lively, animated place to be. The cafés, waterfront tavernas and restaurants entertain a seemingly endless flow of customers, while fishermen attempt to sell their catch to passers by. There’s little specific to seek out, although the hilltop clocktower and small, well-labelled archeological museum (Mon–Sat 8.30am–3pm; free) are worth a look. For a more peaceful escape, head over to Kalávria, whose south coast is fringed by a succession of pine-shaded bays.
Ídhra
The port and town of Ídhra(Hydra), with tiers of greystone mansions and white-walled, red-tiled houses climbing steeply up from a perfect horseshoe harbour, make a magnificent spectacle. Both beautiful and peaceful – thanks to an almost total ban on motor vehicles – it is not surprisingly popular. You’ll see it at its best if you visit on a weekday or out of season: on the plus side, the visitors mean plenty of excellent restaurants and cafés, getting less expensive as you head away from the waterfront.
The mansions themselves, most of them built during the eighteenth century on the accumulated wealth of a remarkable merchant fleet, were designed by Venetian and Genoese architects and are still the great monuments of the island. A town map is available if you are interested in seeking any out – some are labelled at the entrance with “Oikía” (home) and the family name.
Ídhra also reputedly has no fewer than 365 churches – a total claimed by many a Greek island, but here with some justice. The most important is the church of Panayía Mitropóleos, with a distinctive clocktower and a Byzantine museum (Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; €2). Thanks to the lack of transport, few people venture away from the town, so a short walk will take you to surprising isolation; there are no real sandy beaches, but numerous rocky coves are accessible (with less effort, you can also get to many by boat or water-taxi from the harbour).
Restaurants
Agora
Behind Égina Town’s fish market on Panayioti Irioti 28, Égina tel 229 70 27 308.
Agora is particularly good for relatively inexpensive seafood, and there’s outdoor seating on the cobbles in summer.
&nb
sp; Ta Alonia
At the junction for the Mount Parnassos ski centre, Aráhova tel 226 70 32 644.
Popular haunt serving excellent pittes and good, solid mountain fare.
Andonis
Pérdhika, 9km from Égina Town, Égina tel 229 70 61 443.
The most popular of the fish tavernas on the harbour here. A little pricey, but the high-quality dishes are still good value
En Etei 1929
Cnr Khr. Smýrnis & Markopoúlou, Náfplio tel 275 20 29 007.
A shade upmarket, but worth it. The cuisine is European with Swiss overtones – fondue is on the menu – and pasta is a good choice.
Epikouros
Pavlou & Fredirikis 33, Dhelfí tel 226 50 83 250.
One of the best eateries in Delphi,the wild boar stew is particularly good here – and the view from the terrace is stunning.
Kakanarakis
Vasilíssis Ólgas 18, Náfplio tel 275 20 25 371. Eves only.
Lively place serving a variety of reasonably priced and dependably good mezédhes, plus dishes such as braised cockerel with noodles, and kokkinistó (meat simmered in tomato sauce).
Karathanasis
Aráhova tel 226 70 31 360.
Filling soups in the cooler months, alongside draft wine and assorted meat dishes year round and roof-terrace seating in summer.
Karavolos
Póros tel 229 80 26 158. Eves only.
Busy taverna serving karavólos (snails) and other imaginative fare such as saganáki (small skillet) dishes. It’s signposted from the western waterfront.
Taverna Leonides
Epidauros tel 275 20 22 115.
A friendly spot with a garden out back; book ahead if your visit coincides with a performance at the ancient theatre. Actors eat here after shows – photos on the wall testify to the patronage of Melina Mercouri, the Papandreous, François Mitterrand and Sir Peter Hall.
Mandraki
Skala, Angístri.
Moderately priced unfussy grills and home cooking.
Moita
Ídhratel 229 80 52 020.
Just inland from the waterfront, Moita serves interesting seafood and Mediterranean fusion dishes. For that special evening it’s worth splashing out.
Mykinaiko
Mykínes, Mycenae tel 275 10 76 724.
One of the best in the village in terms of both quality and value, with excellentoven-cooked dishes and a robust draft red wine known as “Blood of Hercules” to wash it down.
O Naftis
Douzína 66, Póros tel 229 80 23 096.
Popular with the yachting set, Naftis has a varied menu of grills, fish and mezedes as well as a relaxing location.
Oasis
Póros tel 229 80 22 955.
One of the longer-established harbourside tavernas on Póros, the moderately expensive Oasis has a regular and faithful clientele – a good indication of its commitment to quality cooking.
Panagiota
Aráhova tel 226 70 32 735.
A friendly, family-style taverna high above Aráhova, with fine, good-value lamb dishes, home-baked bread and rich chicken soup.
Taverna Parnassos
Metókhi, Angístri.
It’s worth the walk up the hill for the views and the good food here. Dine on mayireftá and enjoy the relaxing view down towards Skála.
Platanos
Póros tel 229 80 24 249.
High up overlooking Póros port from a little square hosting a clutch of less obvious tavernas, Platanos specializes in meat dishes, and you can dine in the shade of a large plane tree.
To Steki
Panayioti Irioti 34, Égina tel 229 70 23 910.
A small mezédhes place behind Égina Town’s fish market, with inexpensive to moderate prices. The grilled octopus is particularly good.
I Taverna tou Stelara
Bouboulínas 73, Náfplio tel 275 20 28 818.
A good spot for home-cooked ladherá (olive-oil-based dishes) and the fried calamari is also well done.
Vasilis
Staïkopoúlou 20–24, Náfplio tel 275 20 25 334.
In a street where most of the establishments serve similar menus, Vasilis stands out through the freshness of its ingredients. Very reasonably priced, too.
Vakchos
Apollonos 31, Dhelfí tel 226 50 83 250.
One of the better quality establishments in a village not particularly well known for great eateries. The view from this family place is quite stunning, and the food is good-quality traditional fare that’s reasonable value for your euros.
Xeri Elia
Ídhra tel 229 80 52 886.
Acosy and relatively inexpensive fish taverna in an old stone house that puts an inventive twist on filling mayireftá dishes.
Yambeia
Aráhova tel 226 70 32 730.
Moderate-value bar-restaurant on the main street of Aráhova, operating as a café during the morning. The dishes are Italian-influenced dishes, and there’s a small wine list, attentive service and pleasant ambience.
Yeitoniko
Ídhra tel 229 80 53 615.
This popular taverna, about 500m inland from the port, has tables on its roof and a small veranda. Serves great home cooking and the pasta and vegetarian dishes are excellent value.
Accommodation
Hotels
Hostels
Campsites
Hotels
Prices for accommodation are highly seasonal and in the lead-up to the Olympics well over half the city’s hotels seemed to have been refurbished, raising their rates accordingly. The prices quoted in this guide represent the hotel’s cheapest double room in high season; much of the year, you’ll find rates are lower than this. By law, every room has to display its official rates on the back of the door: it is illegal for a hotelier to charge more than this, and you can normally expect to pay less. Most places have triple and even four-bed rooms, which can be a significant saving for a family or group.
Breakfast is included in the price at the more expensive hotels and is almost always available at extra cost if it’s not included; check what you’ll get, however, as the standard Greek hotel breakfast of a cup of weak coffee accompanied by a piece of dry cake and some jam is rarely worth paying for. Most of our recommendations will offer more than that – usually some form of bufffet.
The quarters of Pláka, Monastiráki and Sýndagma are atmospheric and within easy walking distance of all the main sites; hotels here are also relatively expensive, however, and may be noisy. Formerly gritty and sleazy but rapidly being gentrified, Omónia’s bazaar area is the city at its most colourful, while nearby Thissío is rather smarter and airier. For more night-time peace, and better value, though, there’s a lot to be said for heading for one of the quieter neighbourhoods a little further out. Koukáki and Pangráti are attractive parts of the city, and though slightly out of the way – twenty minutes’ walk from Sýndagma or the heart of Pláka – compensate with excellent neighbourhood tavernas and cafés. Around Exárhia and Platía Viktorías, to the north of Omónia, you are again out of the tourist mainstream, but benefit from good-value local restaurants and the proximity of cinemas, clubs and bars.
Pláka
Acropolis House
Kódhrou 6 tel 210 32 22 344, fax 210 32 44 143. Metro Sýndagma.
A very clean, well-sited 150-year-old mansion much favoured by students and academics, who return year after year. Furnishings are eclectic and some rooms have private baths across the hall. Rates include breakfast. €60.
Adonis
Kódhrou 3 tel 210 32 49 737, fax 210 32 31 602. Metro Sýndagma.
A modern, low-rise pension across the street from Acropolis House, with some suites. The rooftop café has a stunning view of the Acropolis and central Athens; breakfast included. €60.
Byron
Výronos 19 tel 210 32 53 554, fax 210 32 20 276. Metro Akrópoli.
Set on a quiet side street within walking distance of the Acropolis and Pláka mus
eums, the Byron is a fairly basic place, attractively renovated with a/c and TV in each room. A few upper rooms have impressive Acropolis views. €80.
Kouros
Kódhrou 11, Pláka tel 210 32 27 431. Metro Sýndagma.
A slightly faded atmospheric pension, but with adequate facilities: shared baths and sinks in rooms. Doubles are overpriced but singles are better value. Some balconies overlook the pedestrianized street, the continuation of Voulís. €60.
Nefeli
Iperídhou 16 tel 210 32 28 044, fax 210 32 25 800. Metro Sýndagma.
The entrance of this modern-looking hotel is actually at Hatzimiháli 2. Comfortably faded rooms all come with TV and a/c, though the lower floors do suffer from some noise at night and service can be mixed. Discount for stays of more than two days. €80.
Phaedra
Herefóndos 16, cnr Adhrianoú tel 210 32 27 795, fax 210 32 38 461. Metro Akrópoli.
Simple, newly renovated place that’s one of the best deals in Pláka. Quiet at night, thanks to its location at the junction of two pedestrian streets, with polite, welcoming management. The cheaper rooms share bathrooms but all rooms have TV and a/c. €50.
Student’s Inn
Kydhathinéon 16 tel 210 32 44 808, www.studenttravellersinn.com. Metro Akrópoli.
This long-established travellers’ haunt is a mixture of hotel and hostel, recently renovated and painted. All rooms have en-suite baths, and there are some triples and quadruples, as well as dorm beds. Not the quietest location, but nice otherwise, with a small courtyard and Internet facilities open to non-residents. Dorms €22–25, rooms €60.
* * *
Booking accommodation
Athens hotels can be packed in midsummer, especially August – yet for most of the year there are enough beds in the city to go around, and to suit most wallets and tastes. It makes sense to book in advance if possible, or to find a phone and ring around on arrival, rather than walk the streets looking: almost every hotel and hostel will have an English-speaking receptionist.
The best rates may well be offered on the Internet – type “Athens hotels” into any search engine and you’ll come up with dozens of hotel search sites, often with excellent-value special offers. If you do just set out and do the rounds, try to start as early as possible in the day. Especially in the cheaper hotels, standards can vary greatly between rooms, so try to see alternatives before you check in.