The Purrfect Guide to Thinking Like a Cat

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The Purrfect Guide to Thinking Like a Cat Page 4

by Emma Milne


  182.KITTEN WORMING

  All kittens should be dewormed every 2 weeks from the age of 3 weeks until they are 9 weeks old. Then perform worm treatments monthly until 6 months of age.

  183.FROM 6 MONTHS OF AGE

  From the age of 6 months, kittens are wormed like adult cats. This should be done every 1 to 3 months for all types of worms, depending on how much the cats hunt. Talk to your vet about your individual situation.

  184.TAPEWORMS

  You will sometimes see tapeworm segments on your cat’s fur or in the cat’s bed. Fleas spread a very common tapeworm. Rodents spread other types. Tapeworm species vary worldwide.

  185.VULNERABLE AGES

  Tapeworms are usually a problem only in older cats, but if your kitten has fleas, you should also get treatment for tapeworms. Make sure any product you use is safe for kittens.

  186.OTHER WORMS

  Depending on where you live, your cat or kitten may also pick up lungworms, heartworms, hookworms, and even eyeworms! Find out what’s living in the area where you live.

  187.WHAT TO USE

  Be VERY careful about the products that you use on cats. Some dog products can easily kill cats. Ask your vet what to use and how often you should administer it—or how often to apply it, in the case of spot-ons. Not all products kill all worms, so ensure you have everything covered.

  INSURANCE

  188.MONEYBAGS!

  Unless you are extremely wealthy, having pet insurance is a very good idea if it’s available. Vets have state-of-the-art capabilities these days, and costs can be very high. It’s very distressing to see people turn down treatments due to finances.

  189.COVER FOR LIFE

  Be very careful to read the wording of your insurance policy. Some policies say, “cover for life,” but this means the life of the animal, not each condition. You may think you have adequate have coverage, only to find a condition is excluded after 12 months, so check your policy very carefully and ask questions.

  190.MOGGIES VERSUS PEDIGREES

  A moggy, or mixed breed, tends to be pretty healthy, but if your cat is hit by a car or gets a chronic condition, such as asthma or skin problems, the costs can very quickly escalate. Some pedigrees are quite prone to disease and should definitely be insured.

  191.CANCELLATION

  Think very carefully before canceling a policy or even switching companies. Anything you’ve already made a claim for almost certainly won’t be covered by a new policy.

  192.FRAUD

  Please don’t ask your vet or nurse to lie on an insurance form. This is fraud and is one of the biggest reasons that vets lose their practices.

  STRINGING YOU ALONG

  193.MISCHIEF

  Kittens are very good at getting into mischief. They are prone to injuries from certain activities, such as mistiming jumps, misjudging landing areas, or overestimating what they can do! They also like to play with stringy things.

  194.WOOL AND STRING

  A common cause of surgery, especially in young cats, is what vets call linear foreign bodies. Your kitten starts playing with a piece of string, swallows a bit, and then ends up swallowing a length of it.

  195.THE LONG AND WINDING ROAD

  As the string passes through the intestines, it becomes stretched along and stuck in certain places. The intestines gather into ruches and get blocked, and the string has to be surgically removed. This can damage long parts of bowel.

  196.TAKE CARE

  Many cat toys have string on them, and lots of people have string or wool sitting around the house. Make sure your kitten is never left alone with these items, or they can quickly disappear down the hatch!

  WHEN TO GO TO THE VET

  197.DR. GOOGLE!

  Vets and doctors the world over are now competing with Dr. Google! Please remember that speaking to your vet is the easiest way to be sure the advice you’re getting is legitimate.

  198.EAGLE-EYED

  The more observant you are, the sooner you’ll get to know what is normal for your cat or kitten. When you know what’s normal, you’ll quickly pick up on subtle changes and be able to act.

  199.WHAT’S NORMAL?

  Try to have an idea of your cat’s normal appetite and feeding pattern, and how much or how often your cat drinks. If using a litter box, know what’s normal for wee and poop, and how often the cat goes there.

  200.EATING

  Some cats like to graze, eating just a little at a time but often, while others badger you mercilessly for food. Increases in appetite could be a sign of diabetes or thyroid problems. A drop in appetite is often the first sign of illness, such as fevers, abscesses, or viral infections.

  201.DRINKING

  Cats originated from desert creatures and often don’t drink very much, especially if they have wet food. Increased thirst is a very common sign of kidney problems and diabetes, among other issues.

  202.VOMITING

  Vomiting is serious because if an animal can’t keep fluids down, dehydration happens very quickly. If your cat vomits frequently for more than 12 hours, you must see a vet. Vomiting very soon after eating food, even if your cat is alert, can be a sign of a blockage in the intestines. It needs investigating.

  203.DIARRHEA

  This can be pretty difficult to spot if your cats always relieve themselves outside. Watch for signs such as going out more often or dirty fur around their bottoms. If diarrhea is present for more than a couple of days, you should seek advice.

  204.URINATING

  Problems with urination are very common, most often because of stress, behavioral issues, or cystitis. If you see a cat straining to urinate but passing only drips or nothing at all, this is a medical emergency. Go to the vet whatever the time of day or night. Left untreated, the cat can quickly get kidney failure and die.

  205.LUMPS

  A cat that fights can get nasty abscesses full of pus that can be very painful indeed. Lumps can also be tumors, so always get them checked out. Try to get your cat used to being gently stroked all over from a young age, so you can notice lumps that fur might hide.

  206.BALD PATCHES

  Hair loss is normal, and many owners are constantly covered in cat hair! However, if you see bald patches, with or without scabs, and itching, get your cat checked out. Hair loss can be a sign of parasites, or it can indicate allergies, among other issues.

  207.SNEEZING

  Sneezing is unusual in cats and should always be investigated. It may be a sign of something stuck in the nose, especially if the sneezing starts suddenly. Chronic sneezing with any kind of mucus coming from one or both sides should definitely be checked. It could be a virus, polyps, or even tooth root problems.

  208.BREATHING

  A cat virtually never breathes through its mouth unless stressed or very ill. Try to have an idea of your cat’s normal breathing rate at rest and when playing. If you notice coughing, wheezing, or open-mouth breathing, go to the vet.

  209.SMELLS!

  Lots of things can change the way your cat smells. Watch out for smelly ears, skin, and breath. These can be signs of ear mites, infections, skin allergies, dental disease, and so on.

  210.WEIGHT

  Every time your cat goes to the vet, the cat should be weighed. If you have good scales at home, it’s also worth weighing your cat every month or so. This is quite easy when using a cat basket. Spotting early changes in weight either way can be really helpful.

  211.LETHARGY

  Sometimes it’s hard to tell if your cat is lethargic because some cats will sleep virtually all day! Once again, if you have an idea of your cat’s normal activity levels and daily routine, you’ll spot when something seems wrong.

  212.EYES

  Cat eyes can be damaged from fighting and also from infections. Eyes can be permanently damaged if left untreated. If the whites of the eyes are red or bloodshot, if there’s discharge from one or both eyes, or if you see swollen lids or squinting, see a vet. Squinting or half-closed eyes are usuall
y signs of pain.

  213.TWITCHES AND FITS

  Any neurological signs should be treated as an emergency. Seizures can be life-threatening. A head tilt, weakness, knuckle dragging, facial droop, or twitching can be signs of brain or spinal cord problems. Don’t leave them too long.

  214.BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY

  Vets won’t think you’re stupid or wasting their time if you’re worried about something. It’s better to be on the safe side, so if you’re ever unsure about something, go and see your vet. Lots of people have later regretted that they didn’t.

  DECLAWING

  215.SCRATCHING

  Scratching is a natural and important behavior for cats. It keeps the claws in good condition and is important for territory marking and defense.

  216.WHY DECLAW?

  Lots of people don’t like it when cats scratch their furniture, doorframes, and carpets. The idea of “simply” removing the claws can seem attractive and convenient to some owners.

  217.AMPUTATION

  Declawing is actually not simple at all. It also involves amputating the end bones of your cat’s toes, to remove the claws fully. This is the same as removing human fingers to the first joint.

  218.SHORT-TERM EFFECTS

  Short-term complications of declawing surgery include infections, chewing the feet, pain, and lameness.

  219.LONG-TERM EFFECTS

  Newer research has looked at the long-term implications for declawed cats, and it’s not good news. Declawed cats are more likely to bite people because they can’t defend themselves. They have much more back pain, possibly because their gait is changed after the surgery. Long-term pain in the feet also causes aggression, behavior changes, and problems with the desire to relieve themselves in inappropriate places (such as the carpet.)

  220.MUTILATION

  Declawing cats is a mutilation that causes unnecessary suffering. It stops the animals from being able to behave normally and causes pain and distress. In many countries, declawing is illegal. If it isn’t where you live, it is ill-advised to get it done.

  221.DIVERSION

  It’s relatively simple to train cats not to scratch furniture and to provide places and surfaces for them to scratch to their hearts’ content. Remember, it’s not okay to deprive animals of one of their needs just because it’s inconvenient for their human owners!

  ADULTHOOD

  EXERCISE AND OBESITY

  222.OBESITY

  Obesity is a growing problem in virtually all pets and in humans. Cat obesity is a huge issue. It can be very difficult to get weight off a cat. As we said in the section about kittens, if you keep your cat slim, this is by far the best thing to do.

  223.BODY CONDITION SCORE

  Body condition score, or BCS, is a great thing to get a grip on early. It’s a way of describing how fat or thin an animal is. Some vets and nurses use a scale of 1 to 9, and others use 1 to 5. The middle number on each scale, a 3 or a 5, is ideal, as the higher the number is, the fatter the cat, and vice versa.

  224.FALSE PERCEPTIONS

  These days, many people are so used to seeing fat animals that those that are perfectly slim seem emaciated! We need to switch this perception back again and start seeing slimness as the right way to be.

  225.KNOW YOUR CAT

  Ask your vet early on to teach you how to assess BCS, and try to be always aware. Check your animal once a month, not every day. In this way, you’ll notice a marked change more easily.

  226.FEEDING AMOUNTS

  As cats stop growing and also after they are neutered, their calorie intake needs go down. Some cats are very lazy and hardly seem to move all day. These cats will need way fewer calories. Always feed cats for the weight they SHOULD be. Ask your vet if you don’t know what that should be.

  227.HOW LOW CAN YOU GO?

  If your cat is overweight or getting that way, be very careful about just dropping the ration more and more. Feeding tiny amounts of high-energy food can lead to protein, vitamin, and mineral deficiencies and also a very hungry, unhappy cat. Don’t go below the feeding guide without vet advice.

  228.DIETS

  There are excellent light diets and weight-loss diets available, so talk to your vet about which one suits best. Feeding six to eight small meals and using wet food can also help a cat feel fuller. Timed feeders, as we said before, can really help.

  229.EXERCISE

  Whatever BCS your cat is, encourage exercise. Play with your cat, and have fun things to climb. You can hide food or use puzzle feeders to stimulate and exercise your cat, too. Access to the outside always helps as well.

  230.DISEASE

  Obesity causes lots of problems for cats. It makes it difficult for them to groom and stay clean; it reduces how much they can explore, jump, and climb; it puts strain on joints; it makes them more prone to bladder problems; and it’s also a major cause of diabetes.

  231.TIME TOGETHER

  It’s well established that slim animals live longer. By keeping your cat slim, you’ll not only improve its health and quality of life, but you’ll also get more years with your best friend.

  DIABETES

  232.GROWING PROBLEM

  Diabetes is diagnosed more and more these days, probably because cats have become fatter, a bit like the human population. Diabetes in cats is very similar to human diabetes. It’s called Type 2 diabetes.

  233.INSULIN

  Insulin is a hormone produced by the pancreas. It takes glucose out of the blood and allows it to be absorbed by the body in fat, muscle, and liver cells. The cells use insulin to make different things and to produce energy.

  234.FAT CATS

  As we said, diabetes is far more common in fat cats. Being overweight reduces the amount of insulin the body produces and also makes cells less sensitive to insulin. This double whammy means glucose stays in the bloodstream and can’t be used by the body.

  235.SERIOUS CONSEQUENCES

  If left untreated, diabetes can be very serious. It causes weight loss, blindness, muscle problems, weakness, coma, and even death.

  236.COMMON SIGNS

  The most common early signs are increased drinking, urinating, and hunger. Unexpected or unplanned weight loss is also common. Cats with diabetes often look scruffy because their coats lose condition.

  237.HOPE

  If diabetes is picked up early, and you do as much as possible to manage it, many cats can go into remission.

  238.TREATMENT

  A multi-pronged approach is best. This includes a change of diet and weight loss if your cat is obese. Offering high protein and low-carbohydrate food, as well as small, frequent meals, can help. So can insulin therapy and home monitoring.

  239.ADVICE

  There is excellent advice on the treatment and long-term management of cats with diabetes on the International Cat Care website.

  240.PREVENTION

  As always, prevention is better than cure. Remember that overfeeding isn’t kind, and it can even be deadly. Keep your cat slim, and the chances of diabetes and related problems will be lessened.

  CREEPY-CRAWLIES

  241.BLOOD SUCKERS!

  Ticks are eight-legged creatures that suck blood. They are egg-shaped and range in size from around 0.04 inches (1mm) to 0.4 inches (1cm) in length. Adult ticks that are engorged with blood can be pretty impressive!

  242.DROP IN FOR A BITE

  Ticks don’t fly or jump but get picked up when your cat brushes past vegetation or sits on it. Ticks will also drop from overhanging plants onto your cat and sometimes you!

  243.HOT SPOTS

  In theory, you could get ticks in a multitude of places, and you could also bring them home on your clothing, so indoor cats are not totally guaranteed a tick-free life. That said, some areas are much bigger hot spots for ticks. If you live near or in wooded areas and grassland, be vigilant. Also areas where deer or livestock graze tend to have higher numbers.

  244.SPREAD OF DISEASE

  Many ticks are important hosts f
or spreading disease. Some of the diseases they spread, such as Lyme’s disease, are contagious to humans as well. Ticks carry different diseases, depending on where you live.

  245.GET OFF!

  There are many theories out there on how to remove ticks. You need to be sure that you don’t leave the head buried in your cat because this can lead to inflamed and infected skin around the head. DON’T burn them out. It’s ineffective, and you’ll likely hurt your cat and get bitten!

  246.HOOKED

  You can buy tick hooks very cheaply. These clever little devices slide under the body of the tick, and a few turns bring out the whole wriggling creature. Ask your vet’s office or local pet store if they stock the hooks.

  247.VIGILANCE

  Look out for ticks on your cats, and try to check your cats over when they come in from outside. If you find the ticks before they attach, they can do no harm. Aim for prevention, too. Not all spot-ons and sprays kill ticks as well as fleas, so make sure you know what you’re using and that it’s safe for cats.

  248.YIKES!

  Fleas spend most of their life off the cat, and for every flea you see, there are about 100 in the house! They can cause irritation in most cats and severe allergies in some.

  249.BITES

  Fleas bite to drink blood. A female flea needs nourishment for egg production and consumes up to 15 times her own body weight every day in blood. Imagine if we had to do the same!

  250.SALIVA

  It is a reaction to the flea’s saliva that causes the redness where a flea has bitten. Most animals are slightly annoyed by this, as with a mosquito bite, but allergic animals can literally tear themselves to pieces. The self-trauma done by allergic animals can lead to secondary infections and very nasty skin damage.

 

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