Faerie Knitting
Page 9
Author photo by Alyssa Peek at PeekPhotography.nyc
Lisa Hoffman
Lisa Hoffman, knitwear designer and knitting teacher, lives in New York City with her husband, Andrew. She has three grown children living near and far. Lisa Hoffman’s designs have been published in Vogue Knitting, Interweave Knits, and knit.wear magazines. She has projects published in books including Alice Hoffman’s Survival Lessons, Vogue Knitting: Mittens & Gloves, Iris Schreier’s One + One series, and 60 Quick Baby Blankets, among others. She has original patterns for sale on her Ravelry.com site, Lisa Hoffman Knitting. She currently works and teaches knitting classes in New York City. Connect with Lisa at LisaHoffmanKnits.com, on Instagram (@lisahoffmanknits), or on Facebook (@lisahoffmanknits).
Share photos of your finished knits, see behind-the-scenes photos, and connect with Alice and Lisa at FaerieKnitting.com, on Facebook (@faerieknitting), at Ravelry (www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/faerie-knitting/patterns), or on Instagram (@faerieknitting).
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GLOSSARY
ABBREVIATIONS
1/1 LC: 1 over 1 left cross.
1/1 LPC: 1 over 1 left purl cross.
1/1 RC: 1 over 1 right cross.
1/1 RPC: 1 over 1 right purl cross.
3/3 LC: 3 over 3 left cross.
3/3 RC: 3 over 3 right cross.
BOR: Beginning of round.
CDD: Centered double decrease.
Dpn(s): Double-point needle(s).
K: Knit.
K1b: Knit 1 into the stitch below.
K1tbl: Knit 1 through the back loop.
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together.
K3tog: Knit 3 stitches together.
Kf/b: Knit front/tback.
KYOK: Knit, yarn over, knit into same stitch.
M1: Make 1 stitch.
M1L: Make 1 left.
M1R: Make 1 right.
P: Purl.
P2tog: Purl 2 stitches together.
Pm: Place a marker.
Ppm: Place a permanent marker.
Psso: Pass slipped stitch over.
Rem: Remain(ing).
Rep: Repeat.
RS: Right side.
S1: Slip 1 stitch purlwise.
Selv: Selvedge.
Sm: Slip marker.
Ssk: Slip, slip, knit.
St(s): Stitch(es).
WS: Wrong side.
Wyib: With yarn in back.
Wyif: With yarn in front.
Yo: Yarn over.
TECHNIQUES
Cast Ons and Bind Offs
Thumb cast on
Wrap working yarn around left thumb from front to back. Insert right needle into the loop just created by wrapping yarn.
Lace bind off
Knit 1, *knit 1, pass first stitch over second stitch, yarn over and hold yarn to back, pass stitch over yarn over; repeat from * to end.
3-needle bind off
With the right sides of the two pieces together and the needles parallel, insert a third needle into the first stitch on each needle and knit them together. Knit the next 2 stitches the same way. Slip the first stitch on the third needle over the second stitch and off the needle. Repeat for 3-needle bind off.
Increases
Knit, yo, knit (KYOK)
Make 3 stitches from 1 by knitting into front of next stitch (Figure 1), do not drop stitch off left needle (Figure 2), yarn over right needle (Figure 3), knit into front of same stitch again, drop stitch from left needle (Figure 4).
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Kf/b
Increase 1 stitch by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch.
M1
Make 1 stitch by lifting the bar between 2 stitches with left needle from front to back (Figure 1) and knitting this lifted stitch through the back loop to create a twisted stitch (Figure 2).
Figure 1
Figure 2
M1L
See M1.
M1R
Make 1 stitch leaning right by lifting the bar between 2 stitches with left needle from back to front (Figure 1) and knitting this lifted stitch through the front loop to create a twisted stitch (Figure 2).
Figure 1
Figure 2
Decreases
Centered double decrease (CDD)
Slip 2 stitches together knitwise to right needle, knit 1, pass 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch.
K2tog
Knit 2 stitches together.
K3tog
Knit 3 stitches together.
P2tog
Purl 2 stitches together.
Ssk
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit these 2 stitches together through back loops.
General Techniques
I-cord
With dpn, cast on 3 stitches. Knit 3. *Slide stitches to right end of your right needle (Figure 1), move needle to left hand without turning work, with yarn in back pull yarn from last stitch worked, knit 3 (Figure 2). Repeat from * to desired length. Bind off.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Knit 1 below (k1b)
Insert right needle into stitch 1 row below the next stitch on the left needle (Figure 1). Knit as normal, letting the stitch on your left needle drop (Figure 2).
Figure 1
Figure 2
Kitchener stitch
Hold needle tips parallel, pointing in the same direction, wrong sides facing in. Set up stitches by threading tapestry needle through first stitch on closest (front) needle purlwise, leaving stitch on needle. Thread tapestry needle through first stitch on back needle knitwise, leaving stitch on needle. Repeat the following steps on the remaining stitches: Pull yarn through first stitch on front needle knitwise, letting stitch drop from needle (Figure 1). Pull yarn through first stitch on front needle purlwise, leaving stitch on needle (Figure 2). Pull yarn through first stitch on back needle purlwise, letting stitch drop from needle (Figure 3). Pull yarn through first stitch on back needle knitwise, leaving stitch on needle (Figure 4).
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Pick up stitches knitwise
Insert needle from front to back into the center of the stitch closest to the edge; wrap the working yarn around the needle as if to knit; use the tip of the needle to pull that yarn through to the front of the fabric.
Pick up stitches purlwise
Insert needle from back to front into the center of the stitch closest to the edge; wrap the working yarn around the needle counterclockwise as if to purl; use the tip of the needle to pull that yarn through to the back of the fabric.
Place permanent marker (Ppm)
Place a permanent marker, which will stay in the same place until finishing, by hanging a split ring or locking stitch marker or by tying a strand of contrast yarn on the bar between the last stitch worked and the next stitch.
Faerie Knitting Notes
Make copies of this page for each of your faerie knits.
Project
Start Date
Completed Date
Fiber
Needle Size*
*Always start with a gauge swatch to check your needle size, and measure your swatch to be sure it matches the pattern gauge.
* * *
* * *
* * *
“Writing and knitting have a lot in common: You have to have patience, imagination, and a willingness to work on your mistakes. And of course, you have to possess the desire to create something beautiful.”
—ALICE HOFFMAN
US/Metric Conversion Charts
Length Conversions
To convert
to
multiply by
Inches
Centimeters
2.54
Centimeters
Inches
0.4
Feet
Centimeters
30.5
Centimeters
Feet
0.03
Yards
Meters
0.9
Meters
Yards
1.1
Knitting Needle Size Conversions
Metric Size
US Size
2mm
0
2.25mm
1
2.75mm
2
3mm
2.5
3.25mm
3
3.5mm
4
3.75mm
5
4mm
6
4.5mm
7
5mm
8
5.5mm
9
6mm
10
6.5mm
10
7mm
10.75
8mm
11
9mm
13
10mm
15
12.5mm
17
15mm
19
19mm
35
25mm
50
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Copyright © 2018 by Alice Hoffman and Lisa Hoffman.
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First Adams Media hardcover edition September 2018
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Cover and interior design by Frank Rivera and Stephanie Hannus
Photography by Steve Parke
Additional images © Getty Images and 123RF
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Hoffman, Lisa (knitwear designer), author. | Hoffman, Alice, author.
Faerie knitting / Alice Hoffman and Lisa Hoffman.
Avon, Massachusetts: Adams Media, 2018.
LCCN 2018011466 (print) | LCCN 2018016060 (ebook) | ISBN 9781507206553 (hc) | ISBN 9781507206560 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Knitting--Patterns. | Fairy tales--United States. | BISAC: CRAFTS & HOBBIES / Needlework / Knitting. | CRAFTS & HOBBIES / Fashion. | CRAFTS & HOBBIES / Needlework / Lace & Tatting.
Classification: LCC TT825 (ebook) | LCC TT825 .F34 2018 (print) | DDC 746.43/2041--dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018011466
ISBN 978-1-5072-0655-3
ISBN 978-1-5072-0656-0 (ebook)
Many of the designations used by manufacturers and sellers to distinguish their products are claimed as trademarks. Where those designations appear in this book and Simon & Schuster, Inc., was aware of a trademark claim, the designations have been printed with initial capital letters.