The Uncommercial Traveller

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by Dickens, Charles

of deserted houses. They hold no companionship except that

  sometimes, after dark, two of them will emerge from opposite

  houses, and meet in the middle of the road as on neutral ground, or

  will peep from adjoining houses over an interposing barrier of area

  railings, and compare a few reserved mistrustful notes respecting

  their good ladies or good gentlemen. This I have discovered in the

  course of various solitary rambles I have taken Northward from my

  retirement, along the awful perspectives of Wimpole-street, Harleystreet,

  and similar frowning regions. Their effect would be

  scarcely distinguishable from that of the primeval forests, but for

  the Klem stragglers; these may be dimly observed, when the heavy

  shadows fall, flitting to and fro, putting up the door-chain,

  taking in the pint of beer, lowering like phantoms at the dark

  parlour windows, or secretly consorting underground with the dustbin

  and the water-cistern.

  In the Burlington Arcade, I observe, with peculiar pleasure, a

  primitive state of manners to have superseded the baneful

  influences of ultra civilisation. Nothing can surpass the

  innocence of the ladies' shoe-shops, the artificial-flower

  repositories, and the head-dress depots. They are in strange hands

  at this time of year - hands of unaccustomed persons, who are

  imperfectly acquainted with the prices of the goods, and

  contemplate them with unsophisticated delight and wonder. The

  children of these virtuous people exchange familiarities in the

  Arcade, and temper the asperity of the two tall beadles. Their

  youthful prattle blends in an unwonted manner with the harmonious

  shade of the scene, and the general effect is, as of the voices of

  birds in a grove. In this happy restoration of the golden time, it

  has been my privilege even to see the bigger beadle's wife. She

  brought him his dinner in a basin, and he ate it in his arm-chair,

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  and afterwards fell asleep like a satiated child. At Mr.

  Truefitt's, the excellent hairdresser's, they are learning French

  to beguile the time; and even the few solitaries left on guard at

  Mr. Atkinson's, the perfumer's round the corner (generally the most

  inexorable gentleman in London, and the most scornful of three-andsixpence),

  condescend a little, as they drowsily bide or recall

  their turn for chasing the ebbing Neptune on the ribbed sea-sand.

  From Messrs. Hunt and Roskell's, the jewellers, all things are

  absent but the precious stones, and the gold and silver, and the

  soldierly pensioner at the door with his decorated breast. I might

  stand night and day for a month to come, in Saville-row, with my

  tongue out, yet not find a doctor to look at it for love or money.

  The dentists' instruments are rusting in their drawers, and their

  horrible cool parlours, where people pretend to read the Every-Day

  Book and not to be afraid, are doing penance for their grimness in

  white sheets. The light-weight of shrewd appearance, with one eye

  always shut up, as if he were eating a sharp gooseberry in all

  seasons, who usually stands at the gateway of the livery-stables on

  very little legs under a very large waistcoat, has gone to

  Doncaster. Of such undesigning aspect is his guileless yard now,

  with its gravel and scarlet beans, and the yellow Break housed

  under a glass roof in a corner, that I almost believe I could not

  be taken in there, if I tried. In the places of business of the

  great tailors, the cheval-glasses are dim and dusty for lack of

  being looked into. Ranges of brown paper coat and waistcoat bodies

  look as funereal as if they were the hatchments of the customers

  with whose names they are inscribed; the measuring tapes hang idle

  on the wall; the order-taker, left on the hopeless chance of some

  one looking in, yawns in the last extremity over the book of

  patterns, as if he were trying to read that entertaining library.

  The hotels in Brook-street have no one in them, and the staffs of

  servants stare disconsolately for next season out of all the

  windows. The very man who goes about like an erect Turtle, between

  two boards recommendatory of the Sixteen Shilling Trousers, is

  aware of himself as a hollow mockery, and eats filberts while he

  leans his hinder shell against a wall.

  Among these tranquillising objects, it is my delight to walk and

  meditate. Soothed by the repose around me, I wander insensibly to

  considerable distances, and guide myself back by the stars. Thus,

  I enjoy the contrast of a few still partially inhabited and busy

  spots where all the lights are not fled, where all the garlands are

  not dead, whence all but I have not departed. Then, does it appear

  to me that in this age three things are clamorously required of Man

  in the miscellaneous thoroughfares of the metropolis. Firstly,

  that he have his boots cleaned. Secondly, that he eat a penny ice.

  Thirdly, that he get himself photographed. Then do I speculate,

  What have those seam-worn artists been who stand at the photograph

  doors in Greek caps, sample in hand, and mysteriously salute the

  public - the female public with a pressing tenderness - to come in

  and be 'took'? What did they do with their greasy blandishments,

  before the era of cheap photography? Of what class were their

  previous victims, and how victimised? And how did they get, and

  how did they pay for, that large collection of likenesses, all

  purporting to have been taken inside, with the taking of none of

  which had that establishment any more to do than with the taking of

  Delhi?

  But, these are small oases, and I am soon back again in

  metropolitan Arcadia. It is my impression that much of its serene

  and peaceful character is attributable to the absence of customary

  Talk. How do I know but there may be subtle influences in Talk, to

  vex the souls of men who don't hear it? How do I know but that

  Talk, five, ten, twenty miles off, may get into the air and

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  disagree with me? If I rise from my bed, vaguely troubled and

  wearied and sick of my life, in the session of Parliament, who

  shall say that my noble friend, my right reverend friend, my right

  honourable friend, my honourable friend, my honourable and learned

  friend, or my honourable and gallant friend, may not be responsible

  for that effect upon my nervous system? Too much Ozone in the air,

  I am informed and fully believe (though I have no idea what it is),

  would affect me in a marvellously disagreeable way; why may not too

  much Talk? I don't see or hear the Ozone; I don't see or hear the

  Talk. And there is so much Talk; so much too much; such loud cry,

  and such scant supply of wool; such a deal of fleecing, and so

  little fleece! Hence, in the Arcadian season, I find it a

  delicious triumph to walk down to deserted Westminster, and see the

  Courts shut up; to walk a little further and see the Two Houses

  shut up; to stand in the Abbey Yard, like the New Zealander of ther />
  grand English History (concerning which unfortunate man, a whole

  rookery of mares' nests is generally being discovered), and gloat

  upon the ruins of Talk. Returning to my primitive solitude and

  lying down to sleep, my grateful heart expands with the

  consciousness that there is no adjourned Debate, no ministerial

  explanation, nobody to give notice of intention to ask the noble

  Lord at the head of her Majesty's Government five-and-twenty

  bootless questions in one, no term time with legal argument, no

  Nisi Prius with eloquent appeal to British Jury; that the air will

  to-morrow, and to-morrow, and to-morrow, remain untroubled by this

  superabundant generating of Talk. In a minor degree it is a

  delicious triumph to me to go into the club, and see the carpets

  up, and the Bores and the other dust dispersed to the four winds.

  Again, New Zealander-like, I stand on the cold hearth, and say in

  the solitude, 'Here I watched Bore A 1, with voice always

  mysteriously low and head always mysteriously drooped, whispering

  political secrets into the ears of Adam's confiding children.

  Accursed be his memory for ever and a day!'

  But, I have all this time been coming to the point, that the happy

  nature of my retirement is most sweetly expressed in its being the

  abode of Love. It is, as it were, an inexpensive Agapemone:

  nobody's speculation: everybody's profit. The one great result of

  the resumption of primitive habits, and (convertible terms) the not

  having much to do, is, the abounding of Love.

  The Klem species are incapable of the softer emotions; probably, in

  that low nomadic race, the softer emotions have all degenerated

  into flue. But, with this exception, all the sharers of my retreat

  make love.

  I have mentioned Saville-row. We all know the Doctor's servant.

  We all know what a respectable man he is, what a hard dry man, what

  a firm man, what a confidential man: how he lets us into the

  waiting-room, like a man who knows minutely what is the matter with

  us, but from whom the rack should not wring the secret. In the

  prosaic "season," he has distinctly the appearance of a man

  conscious of money in the savings bank, and taking his stand on his

  respectability with both feet. At that time it is as impossible to

  associate him with relaxation, or any human weakness, as it is to

  meet his eye without feeling guilty of indisposition. In the blest

  Arcadian time, how changed! I have seen him, in a pepper-and-salt

  jacket - jacket - and drab trousers, with his arm round the waist

  of a bootmaker's housemaid, smiling in open day. I have seen him

  at the pump by the Albany, unsolicitedly pumping for two fair young

  creatures, whose figures as they bent over their cans, were - if I

  may be allowed an original expression - a model for the sculptor.

  I have seen him trying the piano in the Doctor's drawing-room with

  his forefinger, and have heard him humming tunes in praise of

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  lovely woman. I have seen him seated on a fire-engine, and going

  (obviously in search of excitement) to a fire. I saw him, one

  moonlight evening when the peace and purity of our Arcadian west

  were at their height, polk with the lovely daughter of a cleaner of

  gloves, from the door-steps of his own residence, across Savillerow,

  round by Clifford-street and Old Burlington-street, back to

  Burlington-gardens. Is this the Golden Age revived, or Iron

  London?

  The Dentist's servant. Is that man no mystery to us, no type of

  invisible power? The tremendous individual knows (who else does?)

  what is done with the extracted teeth; he knows what goes on in the

  little room where something is always being washed or filed; he

  knows what warm spicy infusion is put into the comfortable tumbler

  from which we rinse our wounded mouth, with a gap in it that feels

  a foot wide; he knows whether the thing we spit into is a fixture

  communicating with the Thames, or could be cleared away for a

  dance; he sees the horrible parlour where there are no patients in

  it, and he could reveal, if he would, what becomes of the Every-Day

  Book then. The conviction of my coward conscience when I see that

  man in a professional light, is, that he knows all the statistics

  of my teeth and gums, my double teeth, my single teeth, my stopped

  teeth, and my sound. In this Arcadian rest, I am fearless of him

  as of a harmless, powerless creature in a Scotch cap, who adores a

  young lady in a voluminous crinoline, at a neighbouring billiardroom,

  and whose passion would be uninfluenced if every one of her

  teeth were false. They may be. He takes them all on trust.

  In secluded corners of the place of my seclusion, there are little

  shops withdrawn from public curiosity, and never two together,

  where servants' perquisites are bought. The cook may dispose of

  grease at these modest and convenient marts; the butler, of

  bottles; the valet and lady's maid, of clothes; most servants,

  indeed, of most things they may happen to lay hold of. I have been

  told that in sterner times loving correspondence, otherwise

  interdicted, may be maintained by letter through the agency of some

  of these useful establishments. In the Arcadian autumn, no such

  device is necessary. Everybody loves, and openly and blamelessly

  loves. My landlord's young man loves the whole of one side of the

  way of Old Bond-street, and is beloved several doors up New Bondstreet

  besides. I never look out of window but I see kissing of

  hands going on all around me. It is the morning custom to glide

  from shop to shop and exchange tender sentiments; it is the evening

  custom for couples to stand hand in hand at house doors, or roam,

  linked in that flowery manner, through the unpeopled streets.

  There is nothing else to do but love; and what there is to do, is

  done.

  In unison with this pursuit, a chaste simplicity obtains in the

  domestic habits of Arcadia. Its few scattered people dine early,

  live moderately, sup socially, and sleep soundly. It is rumoured

  that the Beadles of the Arcade, from being the mortal enemies of

  boys, have signed with tears an address to Lord Shaftesbury, and

  subscribed to a ragged school. No wonder! For, they might turn

  their heavy maces into crooks and tend sheep in the Arcade, to the

  purling of the water-carts as they give the thirsty streets much

  more to drink than they can carry.

  A happy Golden Age, and a serene tranquillity. Charming picture,

  but it will fade. The iron age will return, London will come back

  to town, if I show my tongue then in Saville-row for half a minute

  I shall be prescribed for, the Doctor's man and the Dentist's man

  will then pretend that these days of unprofessional innocence never

  existed. Where Mr. and Mrs. Klem and their bed will be at that

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  time, passes human knowledge; but my hatter hermitage will then

  know them no more, nor will it then know me. The desk at wh
ich I

  have written these meditations will retributively assist at the

  making out of my account, and the wheels of gorgeous carriages and

  the hoofs of high-stepping horses will crush the silence out of

  Bond-street - will grind Arcadia away, and give it to the elements

  in granite powder.

  CHAPTER XVII - THE ITALIAN PRISONER

  The rising of the Italian people from under their unutterable

  wrongs, and the tardy burst of day upon them after the long long

  night of oppression that has darkened their beautiful country, have

  naturally caused my mind to dwell often of late on my own small

  wanderings in Italy. Connected with them, is a curious little

  drama, in which the character I myself sustained was so very

  subordinate that I may relate its story without any fear of being

  suspected of self-display. It is strictly a true story.

  I am newly arrived one summer evening, in a certain small town on

  the Mediterranean. I have had my dinner at the inn, and I and the

  mosquitoes are coming out into the streets together. It is far

  from Naples; but a bright, brown, plump little woman-servant at the

  inn, is a Neapolitan, and is so vivaciously expert in panto-mimic

  action, that in the single moment of answering my request to have a

  pair of shoes cleaned which I have left up-stairs, she plies

  imaginary brushes, and goes completely through the motions of

  polishing the shoes up, and laying them at my feet. I smile at the

  brisk little woman in perfect satisfaction with her briskness; and

  the brisk little woman, amiably pleased with me because I am

  pleased with her, claps her hands and laughs delightfully. We are

  in the inn yard. As the little woman's bright eyes sparkle on the

  cigarette I am smoking, I make bold to offer her one; she accepts

  it none the less merrily, because I touch a most charming little

  dimple in her fat cheek, with its light paper end. Glancing up at

  the many green lattices to assure herself that the mistress is not

  looking on, the little woman then puts her two little dimple arms

  a-kimbo, and stands on tiptoe to light her cigarette at mine. 'And

  now, dear little sir,' says she, puffing out smoke in a most

  innocent and cherubic manner, 'keep quite straight on, take the

  first to the right and probably you will see him standing at his

  door.'

  I gave a commission to 'him,' and I have been inquiring about him.

 

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