Britain’s Last Frontier

by Alistair Moffat

  Where in a gale

  I spread my batwing jacket and jumped farther

  Than I’ve jumped since. There’s where I used to sail

  Boats looped from rushes. On the jetty there

  I caught eels, cut their heads off and watched them slew

  Slow through the water. Ah – Cape Finisterre

  I called that point, to show how much I knew.

  While Hamish sketches, a crofter tells me that

  The Scalpay folk,

  Though very intelligent, are not Spinozas . . .

  We walk the Out End road (no need to invoke

  That troublemaker, Memory, she’s everywhere)

  To Laggandoan, greeted all the way –

  My city eyeballs prickle; it’s hard to bear

  With such affection and such gaiety.

  Scalpay revisited? – more than Scalpay. I

  Have no defence,

  For half my thought and half my blood is Scalpay,

  Against that pure, hardheaded innocence

  That shows love without shame, weeps without shame,

  Whose every thought is hospitality –

  Edinburgh, Edinburgh, you’re dark years away.

  Scattering snowflakes riddling the hard wind

  Are almost spent

  When we reach Johann’s house. She fills the doorway,

  Sixty years of size and astonishment,

  Then laughs and cries and laughs, as she always did

  And will (easy glum, easy glow, a friend would say) . . .

  Scones, oatcakes, herrings from under a bubbling lid.

  Then she comes with us to put us on our way.

  Hugging my arm in her stronger one, she says,

  Fancy me

  Walking this road beside my darling Norman!

  And what is there to say? . . . We look back and see

  Her monumental against the flying sky

  And I am filled with love and praise and shame

  Knowing that I have been, and knowing why,

  Diminished and enlarged. Are they the same?

  What this beautiful piece of writing shows is something simple – that it is possible to catch the intimate essence of a culture without knowing (much) of its language. In other work, MacCaig claims incomprehension, especially when his Aunt Julia spoke quickly in Gaelic. A real family link existed, no doubt, but that is not an uncommon connection and one which would could apply to many hundreds of thousands of Scots and exiles.

  Sorley MacLean so admired Norman MacCaig’s Highland poems that he wrote that, in them, he had given the landscape of Sutherland new meaning. He had honoured his Gaelic-speaking ancestors by writing in very beautiful English. Here is his:

  Neglected Graveyard, Luskentyre

  I wade in the long grass,

  Barking my shins on gravestones.

  The grass overtops the dyke.

  In and out of the bay hesitates the Atlantic.

  A seagull stares at me hard

  With a quarterdeck eye, leans forward

  And shrugs into the air.

  The dead rest from their journey from one wilderness to Another.

  Considering what they were,

  This seems a proper disorder.

  Why lay graces by rule

  Like bars of a cage on the ground? To discipline the unruly?

  I know a man who is

  Peeped at by death. No place is

  Atlantics coming in;

  No time but reaches out to touch him with a cold finger.

  He hears death at the door.

  He knows him round every corner.

  No matter where he goes

  He wades in long grass, barking his shins on gravestones.

  The edge of the green sea

  Crumples. Bees are in clover.

  I part the grass and there –

  Angus Macleod, drowned. Mary his wife. Together.

  Perhaps Norman MacCaig’s elegant Highland poems point to a future without Gaelic, a literature in English able to describe a thoroughly different culture at least adequately. Perhaps it will simply fade. This is the last verse of MacCaig’s ‘Praise of a Man’, lines that might make an elegy for Gaelic, for all that experience on the other side of Britain’s Last Frontier.

  The beneficent lights dim

  but don’t vanish. The razory edges

  dull, but still cut. He’s gone: but you can see

  his tracks still, in the snow of the world.

  Select Bibliography

  Allan, John R. North-East Lowlands of Scotland, Yeadons 2009

  Allan, John, R. Farmer’s Boy, Birlinn 2009

  Barrie, J.M. A Window in Thrums: Auld Licht Idylls, Classic Reprint 2009

  Birley, Anthony Tacitus, Agricola and Germania, Oxford Paperbacks 1999

  Cameron, David Kerr The Ballad and the Plough, Birlinn 1997

  Cunliffe, Barry The Ancient Celts, Penguin 1997

  Daiches, David Scotch Whisky, Birlinn 1995

  Devine, Tom The Scottish Nation, Penguin 2000

  Glendinning, Miles and Martins, Susanna Wade Buildings of the Land: Scotland’s Farms 1750–2000, RCAHMS 2009

  Grassic Gibbon, Lewis A Scots Quair, Polygon 2006

  Hamilton, Ian Stone of Destiny, Birlinn 2008

  Maclean, Alasdair Night Falls on Ardnamurchan, Birlinn 2011

  Marsden, John Kings, Mormaers, Rebels, John Donald 2010

  McGeachie, Lynne Beatrix Potter’s Scotland, Luath 2010

  McKean, Charles The District of Moray, Scottish Academic Press 1987

  Moffat, Alistair The Highland Clans, Thames & Hudson 2010

  Munro, Neil Para Handy, Birlinn, 2002

  Shirley, Elizabeth Building A Roman Legionary Fortress, Tempus 2001

  Smout, T.C. A Century of the Scottish People, Fontana 2010

  Stevenson, David Rob Roy, Birlinn 2004

  Wightman, Andy The Poor Had No Lawyers, Birlinn 2010

  Williams, Ronald Sons of the Wolf, Lochar 1988

  Index

  Aberdeen ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8

  St Machar’s Cathedral ref 1

  University ref 1, ref 2

  Aberdeen Angus cattle ref 1, ref 2

  Aberfoyle ref 1

  Aberlour ref 1

  Achmelvich ref 1

  Adams, President John Quincy ref 1

  Agricola ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9, ref 10, ref 11, ref 12, ref 13

  Aikey Fair ref 1, ref 2

  Ailsa Craig ref 1

  Alasdair mac Mhaighstir Alasdair ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Alba, Kingdom of ref 1, ref 2

  Albany, Duke of ref 1

  Albert, Prince ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Alexander III, King ref 1

  Allan, John R. ref 1

  Anderssen, Andreas ref 1

  Angles, invasion by ref 1

  Anglo-Saxon Chronicle ref 1, ref 2

  Angus, King of Moray ref 1

  Anti-Burghers ref 1

  Appin Stewarts ref 1

  Applecross ref 1

  Arbroath Abbey ref 1

  Arbroath, declaration of ref 1, ref 2

  Arbuthnott ref 1, ref 2

  Ardnamurchan ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6

  Ardoch Roman fort ref 1

  Ardtornish ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Assynt ref 1, ref 2

  Atholl, Marquis of ref 1, ref 2

  Atholl Brigade ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Attacotti (‘the Old Ones’) ref 1, ref 2

  Auld Lichts ref 1

  Baillie, The ref 1

  Ballindalloch cattle herd ref 1

  Balliol, John see John I, King

  Balmoral ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6

  Balquhidder ref 1

  Banff ref 1, ref 2

  Bannockburn, Battle of ref 1, ref 2

  Barbarian Conspiracy ref 1, ref 2

  barber-surgeons of Edinburgh ref 1

  Barnyards o
’Delgaty ref 1, ref 2

  Barrie, J.M. ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6

  Battersea Shield ref 1

  Battle of the Clans ref 1, ref 2

  Battle of the Seven Sleepers ref 1

  Battle of the Standard ref 1

  Bede of Jarrow ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Beinn Bhreac ref 1

  Ben Cruachan ref 1

  Ben Ledi ref 1, ref 2

  Ben Lomond ref 1, ref 2

  Benbecula ref 1

  Bennachie ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9, ref 10, ref 11

  Prayer Field ref 1, ref 2

  Benton, Sylvia ref 1, ref 2

  Bertram, Charles ref 1, ref 2

  Berwick-on-Tweed ref 1

  Birkin, Andrew ref 1

  birlinns (war galleys) ref 1, ref 2

  Birnam ref 1

  Black Cuillin ref 1

  Black Watch (Am Freicadan Dubh) ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Blair, Prof. Hugh ref 1, ref 2

  Blair Atholl ref 1

  Blairgowrie ref 1, ref 2

  Bloody Bay, Mull ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Blucher (battleship) ref 1, ref 2

  bondagers ref 1

  Bonnie Prince Charlie see Stuart, Charles Edward

  Bothwell Brig, Battle of ref 1

  bothy ballads ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Boudicca ref 1

  Bower, Abbot Walter ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Boyd, Lord James ref 1, ref 2

  Braes, Battle of ref 1, ref 2

  Brechin ref 1

  Bridei, King ref 1

  Brigantes people ref 1, ref 2

  Britain, Battle of ref 1

  British Expeditionary Force ref 1, ref 2

  British Socialist Party ref 1

  Broadford ref 1

  bronze working ref 1

  Brown, John ref 1, ref 2

  Browne, James ref 1

  Buchan ref 1, ref 2

  Buchan, Earls of ref 1, ref 2

  Buchan Head ref 1

  Buchanan, James (whisky) ref 1

  Burghead ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Burghers ref 1

  Burns, Robert ref 1

  Burt, Edmund ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5

  Bushmills Distillery ref 1

  Cabrach ref 1

  Cadell, Robert ref 1

  Caereni (‘Sheep folk’) ref 1

  Cairngorm Mountains ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Cairn o’ Mount ref 1, ref 2

  Caithness, Earls of ref 1

  Caledonian Forest ref 1, ref 2

  Caledonian Mercury ref 1, ref 2

  Caledonians ref 1

  Calgacus ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Callander ref 1

  Callanish ref 1

  Cameron, Richard ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Cameron of Lochiel ref 1

  Cameronians ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Campbell, Dhu and Roy ref 1

  Campbell, Donnie ref 1, ref 2

  Campbell, Elizabeth of Clunes ref 1

  Cannon, Col. Alexander ref 1, ref 2

  Cardross, Lord ref 1

  Cargill, Donald ref 1

  Carnish ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Carnonacae (‘People of the Cairns’) ref 1

  Carnwath ref 1

  carnyxes ref 1, ref 2

  Carrick, John Earl of (later King Robert III) ref 1

  Carron Ironworks ref 1

  Carse of Gowrie ref 1

  Castle Stalker ref 1

  Cat Law ref 1

  cat o’nine tails ref 1, ref 2

  caterans ref 1, ref 2

  Cath Gairbheach see Harlaw, Battle of

  cattle farming ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  cave paintings ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Celtic languages ref 1

  Cenel Loairn ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5

  Cenel nGabrain ref 1

  charioteers ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5

  Charles I, King ref 1, ref 2

  Charles II, King ref 1

  Chronicle of Lanercost ref 1

  Church of Scotland ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Churchill, Sir Winston ref 1

  Clach na Cuddain ref 1

  Claidheamh Mor (the Great Sword) ref 1

  Clan Cameron ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8

  Clan Campbell ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Clan Chattan ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Clan Donald ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6

  Clan Fraser ref 1

  Clan Gordon ref 1

  Clan Gregor ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Clan Macaulay ref 1

  Clan Mackay ref 1

  Clan Maclean ref 1

  Clan Macleod of Lewis ref 1

  Clan MacNeil ref 1

  Claudius, Emperor ref 1

  Cleland, Lt Col. William ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Clyde Trust ref 1

  Clydesdale horses ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Cnut/Canute (or Knut), King of England ref 1, ref 2

  coal mining ref 1, ref 2

  Coffey, Aeneas ref 1

  Colquhouns of Luss ref 1

  Comrie ref 1

  Conan Doyle, Sir Arthur ref 1

  Confessor’s (or Coronation) Chair ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Conic Hill ref 1

  Conn of the Hundred Battles ref 1, ref 2

  Constable, Archibald ref 1, ref 2

  Constantine I, King ref 1, ref 2

  Constantine II, King ref 1

  conventicles ref 1

  Cope, Sir John ref 1

  Corgarff Castle ref 1

  Coronation Hill, Scone ref 1

  Corrieyairack Pass ref 1

  Corrour bothy ref 1

  cottars ref 1, ref 2

  Council of the Isles ref 1

  Covenanters ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5

  Covesea ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7

  Cowie Stop Line ref 1

  Craig, Bill ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Craig Phadraig ref 1

  cricket in Scotland ref 1

  Crofters’ Commission ref 1, ref 2

  Crofters’ Holdings (Scotland) Act ref 1

  crofting ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Cromwell, Oliver ref 1, ref 2

  crop rotation ref 1, ref 2

  Crosd, Domhnall Ban ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Cuchulainn ref 1

  Cullen, Battle of ref 1

  Culloden, Battle of ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9, ref 10, ref 11, ref 12, ref 13, ref 14, ref 15, ref 16, ref 17, ref 18, ref 19, ref 20, ref 21, ref 22, ref 23

  Cumberland, Duke of ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6, ref 7, ref 8, ref 9, ref 10, ref 11

  Cuthill (or Cothill) ref 1

  Daiches, David ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Dalgleish, John ref 1

  dal Pozzo, Francesco ref 1

  Dalriada, kingdom of ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6

  Dalriadan rocks ref 1

  Dalrymple, Lady ref 1

  Dalwhinnie ref 1

  David I, King ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  David II, King ref 1

  Day of the Seven Sleepers ref 1, ref 2

  de Bohun, Henry ref 1

  Decantae (‘Noble Kindred’) ref 1

  decapitation ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Deemsters ref 1, ref 2

  Denness, Mike ref 1

  Desert Fathers ref 1, ref 2

  Deskford ref 1

  DiCaledonii people ref 1

  Dingwall Castle ref 1, ref 2

  Disarming Acts ref 1

  Distillers Company ref 1, ref 2

  DNA markers ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Doggerland ref 1

  Domitian, Emperor ref 1

  Donald of the Isles ref 1

  Donaldson, Prof. Gordon ref 1

  Doric tongue ref 1

  Doune ref 1

  draught horses ref 1

  drove roads
and droving ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Drumclog, Battle of ref 1

  Drumquhassle fort ref 1

  Drymen ref 1

  Dufftown ref 1, ref 2

  Dumbarton Rock ref 1

  Dunadd fort ref 1, ref 2

  Dunbar, Battle of ref 1

  Dunbar, Rev John ref 1

  Dunbar, Thomas see Moray, Earl of

  Duncan, King ref 1, ref 2

  Dundee, Viscount (John Graham of Claverhouse) ref 1

  Dundonald Castle ref 1

  Dunkeld ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5, ref 6

  sacking of ref 1, ref 2

  Dunlop, William ref 1

  Dunoon ref 1

  Dunsinane Hill ref 1

  Durness ref 1

  Durness limestone ref 1

  Durno Roman camp ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Dysart ref 1, ref 2

  Eachann, Mairead Inghean ref 1

  Eachann of Strathnaver ref 1

  East Aquhorthies stone circle ref 1, ref 2

  Eddy, Jack ref 1, ref 2

  Edinburgh ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  anti-Jacobite feeling in ref 1

  Arthur’s Seat ref 1

  Castle ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Holyrood Palace ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Mercat Cross ref 1

  Royal Mile ref 1, ref 2

  University ref 1, ref 2

  Edward I, King ref 1, ref 2

  Edward IV, King ref 1, ref 2

  Eilean Donan Castle ref 1

  Elgin ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5

  enclosure of land ref 1

  Epidii (‘Horse People’) ref 1, ref 2

  Episcopalian Church ref 1, ref 2

  Eriksen, Col Birger ref 1

  Essie, Battle of ref 1

  excisemen (gaugers) ref 1, ref 2

  Falkirk, Battle of ref 1

  Falkirk Trysts ref 1, ref 2, ref 3

  Falkland Palace ref 1

  farm life ref 1, ref 2

  farming

  development of ref 1, ref 2

  fee system ref 1

  improvements in ref 1

  poor quality of land ref 1

  Farquharson, Shaw ref 1

  Farquharsons of Invercauld ref 1

  Farr ref 1, ref 2

  Ferguson, Adam ref 1, ref 2

  Ferguson tractors ref 1

  Fergusson, John ref 1

  Ferintosh whisky ref 1

  fermtouns ref 1

  Fetteresso Forest ref 1, ref 2

  Fianna (warriors) ref 1

  Fife, Robert Earl of ref 1

  Finlaggan, Islay ref 1

  Fingal’s Cave ref 1

  First Secession of the Church ref 1, ref 2

  First Statistical Account of Scotland ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  First World War ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4

  Firth of Clyde ref 1, ref 2, ref 3, ref 4, ref 5

  Firth of Forth ref 1