Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit

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by Barry Estabrook


  One Sunday morning: Sara Olkon, “Pesticide Drift to Be Investigated: Churches Fear Effect of Toxin,” Miami Herald, February 22, 2001.

  Subsequent air tests: Described in a joint press release from the Farmworker Association of Florida and the Friends of the Earth (February 22, 2001).

  initiated thirty-nine investigations: Frederick M. Fishel and J. A. Ferrell, “Managing Pesticide Drift,” The University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pi232.

  “This will kill agriculture”: This and the quotation later in the paragraph come from an article by Richard Dymond, “Growers Don’t Like the Smell of Zone Bill,” Bradenton Herald, June 9, 2007.

  according to a 2009 report: Mark Mossierm, Michael J. Aerts, and O. Norman Nesheim, “Florida Crop/Pest Management Profiles: Tomatoes,” University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, CIR 1238 (revised March 2009).

  a team led by Karen Klonsky: K. M. Klonsky and R. L. De Moura, “Sample Costs to Produce Processing Tomatoes,” University of California Davis, Cooperative Extension (2001); and “Production Practices and Sample Costs for Organic Processing Tomatoes in the Sacramento Valley,” University of California Davis, Cooperative Extension (1993–1994).

  In Florida, nematodes: Stephen M. Olson and Bielinski Santos, eds., Vegetable Production Handbook for Florida 2010–2011, University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (2010): pp. 29–38, 47–54.

  the fumigant was approved: See “Extension of Conditional Registration of Iodomethane (Methyl Iodide),” U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, August 13, 2009, http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/iodomethane_fs.htm.

  despite a letter of warning: The letter was sent by Robert G. Bergman of the University of California Berkeley and Ronald Hoffmann of Cornell University to Stephen Johnson at the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency on September 24, 2007.

  A report by the federal government: This was from U.S. State Department document “USA CUN11 SOIL TOMATOES ­Open Field,” a federal government application for an exemption to the methyl bromide ban on tomatoes submitted in 2009 for the year 2011.

  There are already signs: Jacob Adelman, “Calif. Pesticide Opponents Deploy Florida Report,” San Jose Mercury News, September 14, 2010.

  Dr. J. Routt Reigart: From the February 28, 2008, deposition of John R. Reigart, Case No. 06-001725, Circuit Court of the Thirteenth Judicial District in and for Hillsborough County, Florida, Division B, Francisca Herrera and Abraham Candelario v. Ag-Mart Produce, Inc.

  Dr. Kenneth Rudo: From the July 9, 2007, deposition of Kenneth Mark Rudo, Case No. 06-001725, Circuit Court of the Thirteenth Judicial District in and for Hillsborough County, Florida, Division B, Francisca Herrera and Abraham Candelario v. Ag-Mart Produce, Inc.

  On the morning of June 23, 2006: From the June 23, 2006, deposition of Francisca Herrera, Case No. 06-001725, Circuit Court of the Thirteenth Judicial Circuit in and for Hillsborough County, Florida, Division B, Francisca Herrera and Abraham Candelario vs. Ag-Mart Produce, Inc.

  After a break: From the June 23, 2006, deposition of Abraham Candelario Alphonso.

  Cisneros and I agreed: Interviewed Cisneros on June 4, 2010. She also repeated much of what we spoke about during our lunch at her September 13, 2006, deposition. See above.

  When word reached him: John Lantigua, “Produce Firm President Talks to Parents of Children with Defects,” Palm Beach Post, March 26, 2006.

  Yaffa’s five-hour deposition: The deposition took place on August 22, 2006. See above.

  To Yaffa’s disappointment: Laura Layden and Janie Zeitlin, “Health Officials: Pesticides Not Likely at Fault for Birth Defects,” Naples Daily News, October 13, 2005; and Geoffrey M. Calvert, Walter A. Alarcon, Ann Chelminski, Mark S. Crowley, Rosanna Barrett, Adolfo Correa, Sheila Higgins, Hugo L. Leon, Jane Correia, Alan Becker, Ruth M. Allen, and Elizabeth Evans, “Case Report: Three Farmworkers Give Birth to Infants with Birth Defects Closely Grouped in Time and Place—Florida and North Carolina, 2004–2005,” Environmental Health Perspectives vol. 115, no. 5 (May 2007): pp. 787–91.

  FROM THE HANDS OF A SLAVE

  In 2008 Moody’s rated greater Naples: See http://www.city-data.com/forum/business-finance-investing/314367-richest-cities-us-statistics.html.

  Immokalee’s per capita: Data from the U.S. Census Bureau: http://factfinder.census.gov/servlet/ACSSAFFFacts?_event=Search&geo_id=&_geoContext=&_street=&_county=immokalee&_cityTown=immokalee&_state=04000US12&_zip=&_lang=en&_sse=on&pctxt=fph&pgsl=010.

  Your chances of becoming a victim: From http://www.neighborhoodscout.com/fl/immokalee/crime/.

  As a United States attorney: I interviewed Molloy on October 21, 2008.

  From 2005 to 2007: Much of this information was obtained through court records related to United States of America v. Cesar Navarrete, Geovanni Navarrete, Villhina Navarrete, Ismael Michael Navarrete, Antonia Zuniga Vargas, United States District Court, Middle District of Florida, Fort Myers Division, Case no. 2:S07-cr-136-FtM-29DNF. On several occasions, I also interviewed members of the Coalition of Immokalee Workers who had knowledge of the case. U.S. Attorney Douglas Molloy and Collier County Sherriff Charlie Frost sat for lengthy interviews. Anyone writing about the conditions in Immokalee owes an enormous debt to Amy Bennett Williams for her ongoing coverage of a story that most Floridians did not know about. U.S. Attorney Molloy told me that slavery could not survive if the light of the media was shone upon it. No one has brightened that dark corner of our society more than Williams.

  “The food was terrible”: I interviewed Medel by telephone on November 15, 2010.

  He allerted his colleague Charlie Frost: I interviewed Frost on October 21, 2008.

  a total of about fifteen thousand: Due to the nature of the crime, human trafficking statistics are difficult to pin down. My source was the Polaris Project, http://nhtrc.polarisproject.org/images/nhtrcdocs/human-trafficking-statistics2.pdf. Data on murder rates came from the Federal Bureau of Investigation’s Criminal Justice Information Services Division, http://www2.fbi.gov/ucr/cius2009/index.html.

  Slavery and agriculture have had a close relationship in Florida: See “An Examination of the History and Evolution of Slavery in Florida’s Fields,” Florida Modern-Day Slavery Museum, http://www.ciw-online.org/freedom_march/MuseumBookletWeb.pdf.

  tranquility was shattered: See John Bowe, Nobodies: Modern American Slave Labor and the Dark Side of the New Global Economy (New York: Random House, 2007), p. 44.

  It required four more years: All information about the Flores case came from United States of America v. Miguel A. Flores, Sebastian Gomez, Andres Ixcoy, and Nolasco Castaneda, District Court of the United States, District of South Carolina, Charleston Division, Criminal case no. 2:96.806, October 10, 1996; also U.S. Department of Justice press release http://www.justice.gov/opa/pr/1997/November97/482cr.htm.html, United States Court of Appeals for the Fourth District, United States of America v. Miguel A. Flores, No. 98-4178, http://vlex.com/vid/us-v-flores-18328685; and Kevin Bales and Ron Soodalter, The Slave Next Door: Human Trafficking and Slavery in America Today (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2009), pp. 54–59.

  Like Lucas Domingo: See Bales and Soodalter, pp. 49–50. Also see Department of Justice press release, http://www.justice.gov/opa/pr/1999/May/216cr.htm.

  Laura Germino is a slender woman: I interviewed Germino numerous times between October 2008 and September 2010 in person and on the telephone. Our tour of Lake Placid took place on March 24, 2010.

  Ariosto Roblero was a Guatemalan: For an excellent chronicling of the Ramos case see John Bowe, Nobodies: Modern American Slave Labor and the Dark Side of the New Global Economy (New York: Random House, 2007), pp. 3–77. See also United States of America v. Ramiro Ramos, Juan Ramos, and Jose Ramos, District Court of the United States, Southern District of Florida, case no. 01-14019-CR.

  Jose Navarrete broke down: Amy Bennett Williams, “Five Plead Guilty in Immokalee Slavery Case,” Fort Mye
rs News-Press, September 3, 2008.

  That day arrived: Amy Bennett Williams, “Immokalee Family Sentenced for Slavery,” Fort Myers News-Press, December 20, 2008.

  awarded a farmer: See Florida Fruit and Vegetable Association press release, http://www.ffva.com/iMISpublic/AM/Images/Layout_Assets/1508site_1508_20080325T143026/pdf%20library/distinguishedservice.pdf.

  Viacava, the Navarretes’ defense attorney: See Amy Bennett Williams, “Immokalee Family Sentenced for Slavery,” Fort Myers News-Press, December 20, 2008.

  According to testimony: For a reference to Orrin Hatch’s efforts to remove “knowing or having reason to know,” see written testimony of Lucas Benitez, Joint General Interest Hearing Regarding the Rights of Migrant Workers in the United States, Inter-American Commission on Human Rights Hearing. 122nd period of Sessions (March 3, 2005).

  AN UNFAIR FIGHT

  I met Geraldo Reyes: This meeting and interview occurred on October 20, 2008.

  life expectancy of a migrant worker: Alberto Moreno, Migrant Health Fact Sheet, Oregon Department of Human Services (July 2010), http://www.oregon.gov/DHS/ph/omh/migrant/migranthealthfactsheet.pdf.

  According to U.S. Labor Department figures: See “National Agricultural Workers Survey,” U.S. Department of Labor Employment and Training Administration, http://www.doleta.gov/agworker/naws.cfm.

  Reyes introduced me to a worker named Emilio Galindo: The interview with Galindo took place on March 24, 2010.

  Leaning wearily against the railing: The events described in this paragraph and the next took place on October 20, 2008.

  Pascuala Sanchez and her three children: Larry Hannan and Ryan Mills, “Grief Grips Immokalee,” Naples Daily News, March 6, 2007; Katy Bishop and Ryan Mills, “$6M Settlement Reached in Deadly Immokalee Trailer Park Fire,” Naples Daily News, September 12, 2007.

  where one-quarter of the residences: Janine Zeitlin, “Not Giving Up on Fixing Up Immokalee Housing,” Naples Daily News, October 22, 2006.

  After touring Immokalee in 2008, Senator Bernie Sanders: See the transcript of the Hearing of the Committee on Health, Education, Labor and Pensions, United States Senate, One Hundred and Tenth Congress Second Session on Examining Abuses and Improving Working Conditions for Tomato Workers (April 15, 2008). http://frwebgate.access.gpo.gov/cgi-bin/getdoc.cgi?dbname=110_senate_hearing&docid=41-881.

  attempt to shutter: Tracy X. Miguel, “Immokalee Migrant Workers Could Lose Their Homes Due to Collier Zoning Violations,” Naples Daily News, January 18, 2009.

  One of the reasons that rents: The explanation of why rents are so high in Immokalee and the description of the workers gathered at La Fiesta as being “the bottom of the bottom” of America’s workforce came from an interview with Greg Asbed of the Coalition of Immokalee Workers, October 20, 2008.

  One morning I encountered Lucas Benitez: The meeting and interview took place October 20, 2008. Benitez provided background on the coalition’s early activities.

  strikers began to weaken: Donald P. Baker, “Florida Farm Workers Fast for Better Wages,” Washington Post, January 13, 1998.

  Campaign for Fair Food: For details about the campaign, see the Coalition of Immokalee Workers’ Web site, http://www.ciw-online.org.

  grape boycotts mounted by Cesar Chavez: For an excellent account of Chavez’s activities see Miriam Pawel, The Union of Their Dreams: Power, Hope, and Struggle in Cesar Chavez’s Farm Worker Movement (New York: Bloomsbury Press, 2009).

  “New Hedonism Generation”: See http://www.ciw-online.org/tbnyoumatrix.html.

  At a 2003 shareholders’ meeting: See http://www.thefreelibrary.com/YUM+Brands+Shareholders+Demonstrate+Strong+Support+for+Proposal...-a0101935074.

  Internet pseudonym surfxaholic36: Amy Bennett Williams, “Burger King Exec Uses Daughter’s Online ID to Chide Immokalee Coalition,” Fort Myers News-Press, April 28, 2008.

  textbook-quality public relations flub: Elaine Walker, “Tomato Companies, Workers and Fast Food Firms Square Off,” Miami Herald, November 20, 2007.

  exiled Brazilian scholar: Paulo Freire, Pedagogy of the Oppressed (New York: Continuum, 2000).

  $100,000 fine: See Steven Greenhouse, “Tomato Pickers’ Wages Fight Faces Obstacles,” the New York Times, December 24, 2007.

  A PENNY PER POUND

  Technically, Brown has three jobs: I interviewed Brown on June 3, 2010.

  I encountered a grower named Joe Procacci: I interviewed Procacci on March 2, 2005.

  Agricultural Marketing Agreement Act of 1937: See http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=STELPRDC5067868.

  By taking on Procacci: For a company profile and history, see Doug Ohlemeier, “Procacci Bros. Marks 60 Years in Business,” The Packer, January 9, 2001.

  introduced legislation that would specifically exempt UglyRipes: See http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/2006/06-5833.htm.

  Florida tomato growers have been falling further behind: John J. Van Sickle, “Spatial and Vertical Price Transmission in Fresh Produce Markets” (presented at the Agricultural Markets Workshop, April 21, 2006).

  In the last three decades: I arrived at these figures by comparing the Consumer Price Index with the Producer Price Index for fresh-market, field-grown tomatoes as determined by the U.S. Department of Agriculture Economic Research Service. http://usda.mannlib.cornell.edu/MannUsda/viewDocumentInfo.do?documentID=1212.

  a market that was awash: See Liam Pleven and Carolyn Cui, “Dying on the Vine: Tomato Prices—Tomatoes Go from Shortage to Glut in a Matter of Weeks,” Wall Street Journal, June 17, 2010.

  a massive salmonella outbreak: See Mickie Anderson, “UF Research Finds Salmonella Responds Differently to Varieties, Ripeness,” University of Florida News, September 21, 2010.

  Mexican imports accounted for about one-fifth: See “Vegetables and Melons: Tomatoes” briefing, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Economic Research Service (updated October 5, 2009).

  Mexico agreed to a settlement: Eili Klein, “Rotten Tomatoes! The Mexican Growers Tomato Suspension Agreement and Its Effects on Mexico’s Market Share: A Constant Market Shares Approach,” Johns Hopkins School of International Studies, April 2004. http://www.princeton.edu/~eklein/pubs/MexicoMarketShareCMS_u2.pdf.

  The skeptics’ position was vindicated: See Elaine Walker, “Tomato Companies, Workers and Fast Food Firms Square Off,” Miami Herald, November 20, 2007.

  Brown was given an opportunity: For a transcript of the U.S. Senate committee hearing, see http://help.senate.gov/hearings/hearing/?id=0d03081e-0186-dc43-8fdf-0d68cfc2fc80.

  Crist agreed to meet: Bill Maxwell, “Gov. Crist Backs Farmworkers,” St. Petersburg Times, April 5, 2009.

  Five months later: See Amy Bennett Williams, “Tomato Struggle Over after Immokalee Coalition Signs Historic Deal,” Fort Myers News-Press, November 17, 2010.

  MATTERS OF TASTE

  I met John Warner Scott: I interviewed Scott in person on February 22, 2010. We also had several follow-up telephone conversations.

  As for the reasonably fresh tomatoes: Thomas Whiteside, “Tomatoes,” the New Yorker, January 24, 1977.

  a tomato can lose its taste if exposed to cold temperatures: Trevor V. Suslow and Marita Cantwell, “Tomato Recommendations for Maintaining Postharvest Quality,” University of California, Postharvest Technology Research and Information Center, February 10, 2009, http://postharvest.ucdavis.edu/Produce/ProduceFacts/Veg/tomato.shtml.

  Harry Klee, a fellow University of Florida professor: I interviewed Klee in person on February 23, 2010. We also had several follow-up telephone conversations.

  In consultation with Howard Moskowitz: For more about Moskowitz’s work, see Malcolm Gladwell, “The Ketchup Conundrum,” the New Yorker, September 6, 2004, http://www.gladwell.com/2004/2004_09_06_a_ketchup.html.

  BUILDING A BETTER TOMATO

  Tom Beddard had provided me: I interviewed Beddard on October 13, 2010.

  Schell chose a radically different path: I interviewed Schell on June 21, 2010.

  His most
immediate problem: See Saulo Mesa et al v. Ag-Mart Produce, Inc., Case no. 2:07-cv-47-FtM-34DNF, U.S. District Court, Middle District of Florida, Fort Myers Division, http://dockets.justia.com/docket/florida/flmdce/2:2007cv00047/190427/. Also Laura Layden, “Thousands of Ag-Mart Workers May Be Eligible for Money,” Naples Daily News, April 29, 2010.

  Barbara Mainster cracked open a door: I interviewed Mainster on October 13, 2010.

  In truth government grants: See Redlands Christian Migrant Association 2008–2009 Annual Report. http://www.rcma.org/annual%20report/RCMAannualrept2008-2009.pdf.

  hired Steven Kirk to oversee reconstruction: I interviewed Kirk on October 14, 2010.

  an umbrella organization called Rural Neighborhoods: See http://www.faqs.org/tax-exempt/FL/Rural-Neighborhoods-Incorporated.html#revenue_a.

  TOMATOMAN

  Tim Stark and I were in his pickup truck: I interviewed Stark on September 14 and 15, 2010.

  in his 2008 memoir: Tim Stark, Heirloom: Notes from an Accidental Tomato Farmer, (New York: Broadway Books, 2008).

  Stark told an NPR interviewer: See “Heirloom Tomato Farmer Finds Beauty in the Ugly, August 8, 2008,” http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=93356124.

  Stark was still grumbling: Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld, New York, August 15, 2010, http://nymag.com/restaurants/features/67495/.

  I was reminded of a passage: Michael Pollan, The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals (New York: Penguin, 2006), pp. 249–50.

  EPILOGUE: WILD THINGS

  just outside Tembladera: For more information about the 2009 trip, see http://irbtomato.blogspot.com/.

 

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