by Julia Child
CHICKEN IN PIECES
How fortunate we are to have chicken in pieces—those who like dark meat may feast upon thighs, white-meat-only people are welcome to breasts, while wings at half price make lovely finger food when the budget is low.
PREPARING READY-CUT CHICKEN FOR COOKING
Rather than being disjointed, meaning that thighs are removed from backbones at the connecting ball joints and wings from shoulders in the same fashion, most supermarket ready-cut chicken is done with a meat saw which neatly halves or quarters the chicken in a matter of seconds. This saving of man-hours is passed on to us, of course, in reasonable prices for chicken but does leave us with some unwanted bones and bits. If these do not bother you, simply wash the chicken under cold running water, dry in paper towels, and proceed to the cooking. If you have time for surgery, however, you can make the chicken easier to cook, especially for sautés and fricassees but also for poaching, because the pieces will lie flatter and take up less room; in addition, they will be far easier to eat. You will also have some useful scraps for chicken stock. The illustrated goose will help you locate bones and joints because goose and chicken have the same bone structure; see also the illustrated semiboned chicken. Here, then, is how to trim the various pieces of chicken.
Drumsticks and second joints (legs and thighs)
When drumsticks and second joints come joined together, the thigh bone is usually attached to the hip, making a clumsy piece of chicken—the hip should be off. On the hip, however, at either side of its attachment to the ball joint of the thigh, are two nuggets of meat, the oysters, which should remain part of the second joint: scrape this meat from the hip bone up to and around the joint, leaving meat attached to joint. Then bend and cut joint free from the piece of hip: this is picky work because the hip bone is small, but it is really worth the trouble. Then, to make the second joint even more attractive, scrape meat away from this same ball joint, and whack off its bulbous end with your chopping knife. In French cooking, the drumstick is separated from the second joint: flex the two pieces to locate ball joint at knee, and cut through it to separate drumstick from second joint.
Breast-wing sections
The breast-wing sections (or wingless breasts) usually come already split so that you have one whole side in one piece, and another whole side as the other piece. On the bone-and-flesh side you may see the long ridge of the breastbone, if it was left in that half, running the length of the thick portion of the meat. Below it is the rest of the breastbone and below that the cross-hatch of ribs; attached to the ribs you may find a piece of the backbone. Again, this is a clumsy piece to cook as is, but easy to trim.
If the wing has been left on, you will be able to make 2 full servings out of the breast by cutting it in the French manner, meaning that the lower third of the breast meat remains attached to the wing as follows: Set the breast in front of you, skin-side up and top of breast (long side with thickest meat) away from you. We shall suppose that you have a left breast with the wing on the right. By wiggling the wing, locate with your finger where the ball joint of its upper arm attaches to the shoulder. Then make a semicircular cut through the skin and breast meat, starting at the lower left side of the long end facing you and ending at the shoulder joint. Scrape meat from rib bones the length of the cut (scraping toward you, not toward the thick side of the meat), separate wing at shoulder by cutting through ball joint, and free the wing with its strip of breast meat. With shears, cut the bony nubbin off the elbow of the wing; trim off rib bones from main part of breast along with backbone if it is attached. For a right-sided breast use the same system, but you may find it is easier to set the breast in front of you lengthwise, the wing end facing you and the thick part of the meat to your left.
Wingless breasts will be improved when you scrape the lower third of the flesh from the ribs at the long thin side, and cut off ribs at this point; the breast will then lie flatter.
Save all scraps for chicken stock
Even a small handful of scraps and bones are worth boiling up with a bit of onion, celery, carrot, a bay leaf, pinch of salt, and water to cover. Full directions for chicken stock are in Volume I, pages 236–7.
HOW MUCH TO BUY
We shall arbitrarily call for 2½ pounds of ready-cut frying chicken to serve 4 people in the following recipes, but you would normally buy by eye—the equivalent of 1 whole breast half with wing or 1 drumstick-second joint per serving is usually sufficient. The total weight will probably be between 2 and 2½ pounds, depending on the weight of the frying chicken and on what pieces you buy.
POULET POCHÉ AU VIN BLANC
[Chicken Pieces Poached in White Wine, Herbs, and Aromatic Vegetables]
This very simple, basic poach can be even simpler if you are on a fat-free diet: rather than cooking the vegetables in butter, simmer them 15 minutes in chicken stock before you add the chicken and the wine. Butter does seem to bring out more of their flavor, however. Because the vegetables cook along with the chicken and are served with it you could precede or follow the chicken with fresh artichokes or asparagus. You then need nothing more for the chicken course than steamed rice, a parsley garnish, and either more of the same white wine that cooked with the chicken, or a red Bordeaux, or a rosé.
For 4 people
1) Sautéing the vegetables
2 medium-sized carrots
1 medium-sized onion and the white part of 1 leek (or 2 onions)
3 medium-sized celery stalks
3 Tb butter
A heavy 3-quart flameproof casserole with cover (such as a round terra cotta one, 9 by 3 inches, set on an asbestos mat)
(This step is optional: see preceding paragraph.) Peel the carrots and onion; quarter leek lengthwise and wash; trim and wash celery. Depending on what effect you want, cut the vegetables either into thin slices or into julienne matchsticks 1½ inches long. Cook slowly with the butter in the covered casserole over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until vegetables are tender but not browned—about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the chicken, Step 2.
2) Poaching the chicken
2½ lbs. ready-cut frying chicken, washed, dried, and trimmed, if you wish, according to directions preceding this recipe
Salt
1½ cups dry white wine, or 1 cup dry white French vermouth
About 2 cups chicken stock or canned chicken broth
The following herbs tied in washed cheesecloth:
Either ½ tsp tarragon;
Or ½ imported bay leaf, ¼ tsp thyme, and 4 parsley sprigs
Salt to taste
Preheat oven to 325 degrees if you wish to use it. Prepare the chicken for cooking, salt lightly, and arrange in the casserole, spreading the cooked vegetables around and over it. Cover casserole and let chicken sweat for 10 minutes over moderate heat, turning it once. (Omit this step if you are not sautéing vegetables in butter.) Then pour in the wine or vermouth and enough chicken stock or broth barely to cover the chicken. Bury the herb packet in the chicken, and bring casserole to the simmer. Taste, and salt lightly if necessary.
Cover the casserole and regulate heat to maintain liquid at a slow, quiet simmer either on top of the stove or in a preheated 325-degree oven. (NOTE: Poaching means slow cooking, so that chicken pieces will retain their shape, and will be tender; boiling not only toughens the meat, but also warps its contour.) Dark meat of chicken will take 20 to 25 minutes; light meat, probably 5 minutes less and should be removed when done, if you have mixed dark and light together. Juices, when either dark or light meat is pricked deeply, should run clear yellow, with no trace of rose, and meat should feel tender when pierced. Do not overcook, however.
3) Serving
Tilt casserole and skim off surface fat; taste liquid and correct seasoning. Discard herb bouquet. Either serve directly from casserole, or arrange the chicken and vegetables on a bed of steamed rice, decorate with parsley, and pass the cooking liquid separately.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: If you aren’t ready to se
rve, chicken will keep perfectly for a good hour. Skim off surface fat, and correct seasoning, then set casserole cover slightly askew for air circulation; keep warm in a 120-degree oven, on a hot-tray, or over barely simmering water.
VARIATIONS
Stewing Chicken—Fowl
A fine stewing chicken 10 to 12 months old, as it is supposed to be when you buy from a reputable market, does beautifully when poached in white wine. Use the same general system as in the preceding Master Recipe with the following slight changes.
If the chicken has not been cut up for you and you wish to do so yourself, follow the directions for goose. Reserve neck, back, gizzard, and heart as well as all scraps; place them in the bottom of the casserole to cook along with the chicken and give additional flavor to the broth. Mature chickens have much more flavor than young fryers, and you need only wine and water for the cooking stock. Stewing time will be about 2½ hours, or until the meat is tender when pierced with a knife. Because the vegetables will have cooked this length of time, they will not be of further use; if you want vegetables to cook and serve with the chicken, add a fresh batch before end of cooking time.
Serve the chicken on a bed of steamed rice or risotto, and you may turn its cooking stock into a cream sauce as suggested for whole poached chicken or one of its variations. You may gratiné the chicken in cheese sauce, as in the recipe, or change the seasonings altogether by simmering the chicken in bouillabaisse flavorings.
Poulet en Gelée
[Chicken in Aspic]
Chicken poached in white wine makes delicious chicken in aspic, and you may be as elegant as the formal recipe in Volume I, page 549, where the chicken is arranged on an aspic-lined platter; each piece is coated with aspic and tarragon leaves, chopped aspic fills in the empty spaces, and aspic cutouts abound. On the other hand, you may be much less formal and just as attractive but in a different way, with either of the two following arrangements. (NOTE: In neither of these is the cooking stock clarified—rendered clear and sparkling with egg whites; if you wish to clarify it, however, directions are in Volume I, page 111.)
A sieve set over a saucepan
A quart measure
Chicken broth if needed 1½ packages (1½ Tb) plain, unflavored, powdered gelatin
Salt and pepper
Set cover askew over casserole and drain out cooking liquid into the saucepan. Skim off surface fat and pour liquid into quart measure; skim again, and pour in additional stock, if necessary, to make 3 cups. Return liquid to saucepan, sprinkle on the gelatin, and let it soften for several minutes. Then stir over moderate heat until gelatin has completely dissolved and liquid is free of gelatin granules. Taste, and correct seasoning.
Rearrange chicken attractively with vegetables, either in the same casserole or in a serving bowl or dish that will just hold the pieces. Pour on the cooking stock and chill several hours, or until gelatin has set; scrape any congealed fat from surface, and chicken is ready to serve.
Molded aspic
You may wish to unmold the chicken onto a platter rather than serve it from a bowl or casserole. Use the same method as in the preceding recipe, but you may need more jellied stock—proportions are 1 envelope (1 tablespoon) gelatin for each 2 cups of stock. Use a decorative metal mold, a metal cake pan, or even a bread pan; pour in a ⅛-inch layer of jellied stock and chill until set. Then arrange the chicken and vegetables attractively in the mold or pan, and chill 20 minutes, or until remaining stock is cold, almost syrupy, and on the point of setting; immediately pour it over the chicken. Chill several hours or overnight to set the gelatin completely. To unmold, first scrape off any surface fat, then dip mold or pan for 4 to 5 seconds in very hot water, rapidly run a knife around edge of aspic, turn a chilled platter upside down over mold, and reverse the two. If aspic does not dislodge itself in a minute or two, repeat the process. Keep chilled until serving time, then decorate platter with lettuce, watercress, parsley, or appropriate vegetables.
NOTE: A more formal method for lining a mold with aspic is in Volume I, page 558, but would only be necessary if you were using clarified jellied stock.
Poulet Mornay, Gratiné
[Poached Chicken Pieces Gratinéed with Cheese Sauce]
When you want a casserole of chicken that you may prepare ahead for a party, this is a useful dish. After the chicken has poached, the cooking liquid is turned into a cheese sauce, which then enrobes the chicken in a baking dish; reheat and brown in the oven when the time comes. Serve this with steamed rice or buttered pasta, and either a simply done green vegetable such as buttered broccoli, peas, or asparagus tips, or a salad. White Burgundy wine would be good here, or a red Bordeaux.
Follow method and ingredients for chicken poached in white wine, Master Recipe, Steps 1 and 2. When chicken is done proceed as follows.
The cheese sauce—sauce Mornay—for 2½ cups
A sieve set over a saucepan
3½ Tb butter
A heavy-bottomed 2-quart enameled, no-stick, or stainless saucepan
¼ cup flour (measure by scooping dry-measure cup into flour and sweeping off excess with a knife)
A wooden spoon and a wire whip
Set cover askew and drain cooking liquid out of casserole. Skim off surface fat, and bring liquid to simmer, skimming. You should have about 2½ cups; boil down rapidly, if necessary. Meanwhile, make a white roux and a velouté sauce as follows: melt butter in saucepan, blend in flour, and stir over moderate heat with a wooden spoon until flour and butter foam together for 2 minutes without browning. Remove from heat, and as soon as roux stops bubbling, pour in all of the hot chicken-cooking liquid at once, blending vigorously with a wire whip.
Return sauce over moderately high heat, and stir with wire whip as sauce thickens and comes to the boil. Boil, stirring, for 2 minutes, and remove from heat. Sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon nicely; if too thin, boil down rapidly and if too thick, thin with milk, stock, or cream. Let cool for several minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent top from crusting while you prepare for the next step.
Final assembly
A buttered gratin dish that will hold the chicken comfortably (such as a 9- by 12-inch oval 2 inches deep)
About 3 ounces (¾ cup loosely packed) coarsely grated Swiss cheese
Salt and pepper
Speck of nutmeg
1 to 2 Tb melted butter
When you have buttered the dish, and grated and measured the cheese, fold all but 3 to 4 tablespoons of the cheese into the sauce. Taste, and correct seasoning as necessary with salt, pepper, and a speck of nutmeg. Smooth a thin layer of sauce in the bottom of the dish, and arrange the chicken over it, including the vegetables, if you wish.
Spoon the rest of the sauce over the chicken, masking each piece completely. Spread on the cheese, and sprinkle melted butter over the cheese.
(*) AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: May be prepared a day in advance to this point; when cold, cover and refrigerate.
Reheating and serving
When both chicken and sauce are hot, and you are serving almost immediately, set dish 3 or 4 inches from a moderately hot broiler and let topping brown slowly while contents of dish come to the bubble; you may then keep chicken warm for half an hour or so at 120 degrees, but be very careful not to let it overcook and lose the delicious quality of freshly cooked chicken.
When chicken has been refrigerated, set dish in upper third of a preheated 375-degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until top has browned nicely and contents are bubbling hot. Again, be careful not to overcook.
Chaud-froid de Poulet, Morvandelle
[Chicken in Chaud-froid—a Cold Dish]
A simple chicken poached in white wine with aromatic vegetables can very easily be transformed into a dressy chaud-froid when you enrich the poaching broth with cream and egg yolks, which will thicken the broth just enough as it cools to enrobe the chicken pieces with a yellow-ivory cloak. Light, creamy, with a lovely texture and flavor, yet no trace of flour or gelatin, this is by far t
he most attractive chaud-froid we know. Serve it with cold vegetables or a tossed salad, French bread, and a chilled Chablis, Riesling, or Gewürtztraminer.
Poach the chicken in wine and aromatic vegetables using the method and ingredients in the Master Recipe, Steps 1 and 2. When chicken is done, continue as follows.
The chaud-froid sauce—for 2 cups
A sieve set over a heavy-bottomed 2-quart enameled or stainless saucepan
6 egg yolks in a mixing bowl
A wire whip, a ladle, and a wooden spoon
1 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
Salt, white pepper, and drops of lemon juice
Set cover askew, and drain chicken-cooking stock out of casserole into saucepan. Skim off surface fat, bring liquid to the simmer, skimming, then boil down rapidly until reduced to 1½ cups. Beat the egg yolks and cream to blend. Still beating, gradually ladle in driblets of the hot chicken-cooking liquid. When half has gone in, gradually beat the creamy mixture into the remaining chicken-cooking liquid in the saucepan.
Set pan over moderate heat and stir slowly and continuously with wooden spoon, reaching all over bottom of pan, for 5 to 6 minutes, or until sauce thickens enough to film spoon with a creamy layer. (Be careful sauce does not come near the simmer and curdle the egg yolks; however, you must heat it to the point where it thickens.)