Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2

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Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 Page 63

by Julia Child


  sliced, baked (gratin, normande; clafouti)

  soufflés, individual, in apples (soufflées, Calvados)

  other ideas

  stuffing, with sausage, I: 275

  tart (tarte aux; tarte normande aux), I: 635, 637–8

  in puff pastry (tarte aux)

  applesauce caramel mold (pommes normande en belle vue), I: 624

  apricot(s) (abricots)

  general information, I: 593, 654

  glaze (glaçage à l’), I: 593, 670; 7.1

  mousse

  molded with sherbet or ice cream (bombe glacée)

  with whipped cream (Chantilly)

  sauce or filling (confit d’, en sirop), 7.1, 7.2, 7.3

  sherbet and ice cream (mousse, glacée)

  in stuffing (suckling pig)

  tart (tarte aux), I: 639

  arroser (to baste), I: 11

  arrowroot thickening

  for brown sauce, I: 70

  for orange sauce, I: 276

  artichoke(s) (artichauts), I: 423–34

  general information, I: 423–6

  boiled whole (au naturel), I: 424

  cold, I: 577

  braised, I: 426–7

  sauces for, I: 426

  artichoke hearts and bottoms, I: 298, 428–34, 478

  general information, I: 428–30

  cold, I: 577; 6.1

  to cook, I: 430–4

  gratinéed, I: 433

  à la grecque, I: 538

  stuffed, I: 433

  en surprise (cold)

  asparagus (asperges), I: 434–41

  general information, I: 434–8

  boiled (nature), I: 436

  cold, I: 437

  custard mold (timbale), I: 440

  froze I: 439; 1.1

  soup

  cream of green (crème d’, vertes)

  frozen, for

  white European, for

  tips (pointes), I: 438

  aspics and molds (aspics), I: 544–57

  general information, I: 544–6

  decorative elements for, I: 546, 559

  jellied stocks for, I: 112–14

  to line a mold with aspic, I: 558

  for pâtés and terrines, I: 565; 5.1

  sauce chaud-froid for, I: 551, 563; 4.1

  to unmold, I: 559

  apple aspic (de pommes), I: 627

  braised beef in aspic (boeuf mode en gelée), I: 556

  chicken (volaille; poulet)

  breasts in chaud-froid (suprêmes de), I: 551–3

  fowl, I: 554; 4.1

  livers in aspic (foies de), I: 548

  poached in white wine, in aspic (en gelée), 4.1, 4.2

  Provençal, cold in aspic (bouillabaisse de)

  in tarragon aspic (en gelée à l’estragon), I: 549; 4.1

  crab (crabe)

  in aspic, I: 549

  in chaud-froid, I: 553

  eggs in aspic (oeufs en), I: 547

  fowl, I: 554; 4.1

  in lemon jelly (escabèche), I: 554

  stewed in pieces

  ham, parslied, mold of, in aspic (jambon persillé)

  lobster (homard)

  in aspic, I: 549

  in chaud-froid, I: 553

  mousses, I: 558–64

  for pâté en brioche, cold

  for pâté en croûte

  shrimp in aspic (crevettes en), I: 549

  aubergines: see eggplant

  B

  babas, I: 658–61

  bacon, I: 15, 21

  blanching, I: 15

  with broccoli (brocoli sautées à la niçoise)

  for larding beef, 3.1, 3.2

  in quiche Lorraine, I: 147

  baked Alaska flambée

  baker’s oven, 2.1, 2.2

  baking dishes: see kitchen equipment

  bananas in brioche cake (le Marly; la Riposte)

  barde de lard (pork fat), I: 564

  baste, to (definition of), I: 11

  batter

  for cookies (pâté à langues de chats)

  for dessert crêpes, I: 649–50

  for entrée crêpes, I: 191

  for ladyfingers, I: 666

  batterie de cuisine, I: 3–10; app1.1

  see also kitchen equipment

  bavarian creams (bavarois), I: 596–603

  almond (praliné), I: 599

  chocolate (au chocolat), I: 599

  orange (à l’orange), I: 596

  with rice and fruits (riz à l’Impératrice), I: 601

  strawberry, raspberry, and other fruits (aux fruits), I: 600

  bay leaves (American, French), I: 18

  beans

  dry white, I: 399–404

  baked (cassoulet), I: 401–4

  variations, I: 404

  to boil, I: 401

  with lamb, I: 338

  to pressure-cook, I: 400

  with purée of pumpkin (gratin de potiron d’Arpajon)

  soup, with eggplant (soupe à la Victorine)

  green or string (haricots verts), I: 442–7

  general information, I: 442–3, 449

  buttered (à l’anglaise; à la maître d’hôtel), I: 444

  cold in salade niçoise, I: 542

  creamed (à la crème; sauce crème), I: 445

  gratinéed with cheese (gratinés, à la mornay), I: 446

  with tomatoes (à la provençale), I: 447

  wax or yellow pod, I: 448–9

  béarnaise sauce, I: 84, 85

  beating

  definition of, I: 11

  of egg whites, I: 159–60; app1.1

  hand-held electric beater

  of egg yolks and sugar, I: 579

  of eggs for omelettes, I: 127

  of sugar and butter, I: 581

  béchamel sauce, I: 55–64; 6.1

  beef (boeuf), I: 288–328; 3.1

  general information, I: 288–9

  cuts for

  boiling, I: 307

  braising, I: 310; 3.1

  filet steaks, I: 290–1; 3.1

  hamburger, I: 301

  paupiettes, roulades

  steaks, I: 289–91, 293; 3.1

  stews, I: 314; 3.1

  grades of, I: 288–9

  marinades

  for braised beef, I: 310; 3.1, 3.2

  discussion of

  for filet, I: 306

  for stews, I: 323; 3.1

  wine marinades, I: 310; 3.1

  arm and shoulder steak

  for braising

  for paupiettes

  boiled (pot-au-feu; potée normande), I: 306

  bottom round

  boiled, I: 306

  braised, I: 310; 3.1, 3.2

  for braising and stewing

  for paupiettes

  in stews, I: 315

  bourguignon, I: 315

  brains: see brains

  braised (pot roast)

  general information, I: 309–10; 3.1, 3.2

  cold, in aspic (mode en gelée), I: 556

  hollowed out and stuffed (en caisse, surprise)

  minced, in beef shell (pièce de, à la cuillère), I: 313

  in red wine (à la mode), I: 309

  in salad (salade de, à la parisienne), I: 543

  with wine and tomatoes (en daube à la provençale)

  brioché, Wellington (filet de, en croûte)

  brisket

  boiled, I: 307

  braised

  for braising

  chuck

  boiled, I: 307

  braised, I: 310; 3.1

  for braising and stewing

  in stews, I: 315

  cold, I: 322, 324, 543, 556, 576

  daubes: see beef, braised; beef, stews

  eye of round

  braised, I: 310; 3.1

  described

  filet of (filet de), I: 290–1, 303–6, 325–8; 3.1; see also beef, tenderloin

  filet steaks (tournedos), I: 290–1, 296–300

  with artichoke hearts

&nb
sp; and béarnaise sauce (Henry IV), I: 298

  and foie gras (Rossini), I: 299

  with mushrooms and Madeira sauce (chasseur), I: 297

  flank, for braising

  fricassees, I: 314–25

  ground (hamburgers), I: 300–3

  heel of round, for stewing

  knuckle: see beef, sirloin tip

  larding of, 3.1, 3.2

  leftover

  braised

  cold, in aspic (mode en gelée), I: 556

  in Provençal sausages or meat loaf (tous nus)

  in salad (en salade), I: 543

  liver, in pâtés

  marrow (moelle)

  preparation of, I: 19

  sauces with, I: 76, 294–5, 419

  plate, for stewing and braising

  ragoûts: see beef, stews

  rolls, stuffed (paupiettes de; roulades de; petites ballotines de), I: 318; 3.1

  cuts for

  giant (la paupiette de Gargantua)

  with peppers, onions, and mustard bread (paupiettes de, à la catalane)

  stuffings for, I: 319, 565; 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, app.1

  round, for stewing and braising

  rump

  boiled, I: 307

  braised, I: 310; 3.1

  for paupiettes

  in stews, I: 315

  salad, with potatoes (salade de, à la parisienne), I: 543

  sautés (filet), I: 325–8

  short ribs, for stewing

  shoulder: see beef, chuck

  sirloin tip, or knuckle

  boiled, I: 307

  braised, I: 310; 3.1

  for stewing

  in stews, I: 315

  steaks, I: 289–300

  pan-broiled (bifteck sauté), I: 292–6

  pepper (au poivre), I: 296

  tenderloin (tournedos, etc.), I: 290–1, 296–300

  stews (ragoûts de), I: 314–25

  cuts for, I: 314; 3.1

  daubes, I: 322–5; 3.1

  with garlic and anchovy (à la provençale)

  with ginger, capers, and herbs (au gingembre)

  with herbs, cheese, and garlic (au pistou)

  with olives and potatoes (aux olives)

  with onions and beer (carbonnades à la flamande), I: 317

  with onions and red wine (aux oignons)

  with peppers and tomatoes (en pipérade)

  in red wine (bourguignon), I: 315

  with rice and tomatoes (à la catalane), I: 321

  stuffed rolls (paupiettes de; roulades de; petites ballotines de), I: 318; 3.1

  with vegetables (daubes), I: 322–5, 576

  stocks, I: 107–10

  Stroganoff (beef sauté), I: 325

  stuffed, I: 313; 3.1

  paupiettes, I: 318; 3.1

  in stuffing with ham, for cabbage leaves

  suet, for larding, 3.1, 3.2

  tenderloin (filet)

  general information, I: 290–1; 3.1

  trimming, tying, and larding

  baked in mushroom duxelles or matignon vegetables

  baked in pastry, Wellington (en croûte)

  casserole-roasted, with aromatic vegetables (poêlé)

  with onions, mushrooms, and olives (à la bourgeoise)

  sautés of, I: 325–8

  sliced, roasted, with mushroom stuffing (en feuilletons, duxelles)

  steaks (châteaubriands; tournedos; filets), I: 290–1, 296–300

  stuffed, foie gras, truffles (Prince Albert), I: 303

  tongue: see tongues, beef

  top roast: see beef, braised

  top round

  braised, I: 310; 3.1, 3.2

  for braising and stewing

  for paupiettes

  in stews, I: 315

  tournedos: see beef, tenderloin

  tripe

  Wellington, brioché (en croûte)

  beet and rice salad (à la d’Argenson), I: 543

  Bercy sauce, I: 210, 294

  beurre: see butter, butters

  biscuits, cheese (bouchées; galettes; baguettes), I: 196–8

  bisque(s)

  crab (de crabes)

  crayfish (d’écrevisses)

  lobster (de homard à l’américaine)

  shrimp (de crevettes)

  blackberry flan (clafouti aux mûres), I: 657

  blanc, for artichoke bottoms, I: 430

  blanch, to, I: 11

  bacon, I: 15

  brains and sweetbreads, I: 409

  broccoli, I: 455; 6.1

  cauliflower, I: 457

  eggplant, 6.1, 6.2

  green vegetables, I: 421, 443, 450, 468

  rice, I: 529

  turnips, I: 486

  zucchini

  blanchir (to blanch), I: 11

  blend, to (definition of), I: 11

  blender: see electric blender

  blettes: see chard

  blueberry(ies) (myrtilles)

  in brioche cake (le Marly; la Riposte)

  flan (clafouti aux myrtilles), I: 657

  with rum babas, I: 661

  boeuf: see beef

  boil, to (definition of), I: 11

  bombe glacée: see desserts, frozen

  boning

  of breast of whole chicken (half-boning or demi-désossée)

  of chicken breasts, I: 267

  of leg of lamb, I: 329; 3.1

  of poultry, I: 570

  of veal breast

  bonne femme sauce, I: 216

  bordelaise sauce, I: 76, 295, 419

  bouchées

  chicken garniture for (de volaille, financière)

  potato cheese sticks (Parmentier au fromage), I: 198

  puff pastry dough for

  puff pastry shells for, 2.1, 2.2

  seafood garniture for (dieppoise; aux fruits de mer)

  sweetbread garniture for (ris de veau à la financière)

  boudin blanc, 4.1, 5.1

  bouillabaisse

  chicken, poached in white wine

  with aïoli sauce (poulet en bourride)

  provençal (de poulet)

  with vegetables and egg-yolk sauce (waterzooi de poulet)

  fish (à la marseillaise), I: 52

  scallops (Saint-Jacques)

  bouilli

  cheese filling for pastries

  sauce base for soufflés, I: 614, 619

  bouillir (to boil), I: 11

  bouquet garni, I: 18

  bourguignonne sauce, I: 76

  bourride

  of chicken

  of fish

  brains (calf, lamb, etc.) (cervelles), I: 408–9, 413–16

  blanching of, I: 409

  braised (braisées), I: 415

  cold, I: 577

  leftover, in gratin, I: 157

  in pâté, with veal, chicken, spinach (terrine verte)

  in red wine (en matelote), I: 415

  sautéed, brown butter sauce (au beurre noir), I: 413

  soufflé, I: 167

  braise, to (definition of), I: 11

  braiser (to braise), I: 11

  braising: see beef; lamb; etc.

  brandy

  for cooking, I: 32

  sauce for pepper steak, I: 296

  bread(s) (pain)

  general information, 2.1

  dough texture, volume, temperature

  equipment for making, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, app1.1, app1.2

  kneading, hand vs. machine

  timing

  weather

  yeast

  brioches; see also brioches

  cases (croûtes), preparation of, I: 200

  croissants; see also croissants

  croûtons

  crumbs, I: 21, 266

  in stuffings: see list of stuffings, app.1

  dough(s) (pâtes)

  general information, 2.1

  delayed action, 2.1, 2.2

  chart

  to freeze

  brioches

  croissants, 2.1, 2.2

  French
r />   sandwich

  egg (brioché; brioche commune; Louis XV)

  with raisins (brioché aux raisins)

  freezing: see directions in each recipe

  French

  general information, 2.1

  baker’s oven, simulated

  delayed action

  dough for

  sour dough

  equipment needed

  special equipment (baker’s oven), 2.1, 2.2

  flour for

  forming

  long loaves (ficelles)

  rolls (petits pains, tire-bouchons, champignons)

  round loaves (pain de ménage, miches, boules)

  kneading

  hand-kneading, 2.1, 2.2

  machine-kneading, 2.1, 2.2

  self-criticism

  shapes, illustrated

  slashing

  long loaves, 2.1, 2.2

  rolls, 2.1, 2.2

  round loaves

  storing of

  plain (pain français)

  hard-toasted (croûtes), I: 44

  honey (d’épices)

  for Melba toast (de mie)

  pans, sizes

  for white sandwich (de mie), 2.1, 2.2

  raisin

  egg (brioché)

  kougloff (brioche)

  white (de mie)

  rolls

  brioches, small

  croissants

  of French bread dough, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3

  rounds (canapés), I: 199; 7.1

  spice (d’épices)

  white sandwich (de mie)

  pans for, 2.1, 2.2

  breasts of chicken: see chicken, breasts of

  brioche(s)

  general information

  dough for

  pâte à, commune

  pâte à, fine

  kneading

  by hand

  by machine

  pans and molds for, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, app1.1

  crust (covering)

  for beef Wellington

  for boned lamb (gigot farci, en croûte)

  for pâté

  for sausage and pâté

  for stuffed veal (feuilletons de veau)

  large (grosse, à tête)

  with raisins (kougloff)

  ring-shaped (en couronne)

  shortcake (le Marly; la Riposte)

  small (petites, à tête)

  British

  measures, I: 20–1

  oven temperatures, I: 25

  brittle (pralin)

  almond, I: 583; 7.1

  walnut

  broccoli (choux brocoli), I: 455–6; 6.1

  general information, 6.1

  buying

  cooking methods

  preparing

  recipes to prepare ahead

  blanched, plain boiled (blanchis)

  braised in butter (étuvés au beurre)

  with bread crumbs and chopped egg (à la polonaise)

  in brown butter (au beurre noir)

  with cheese (gratinés au fromage, à la milanaise)

  chopped

  with cheese sauce (gratin de, mornay)

  in cream (étuvés à la crème)

  sautéed (sauté de)

  cold

  custard molds (timbales de)

  with lemon (au citron)

  with poached eggs

  sauces for

 

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