Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere

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by Jan Morris


  There are places that have meant more to me than Trieste. Wales is where my heart is. A lost England made me. I have had more delicious pleasures in Venice. Manhattan excites me more than Trieste ever could, and so does Sydney. But here more than anywhere I remember lost times, lost chances, lost friends, with the sweet tristesse that is onomatopoeic to the place. What became of that innocent young man I escorted to the brothel on page 138? Dead and gone, and all his horses too, from an English countryside that is no more. The friend who came with me to the schooner on page 83? Still sailing his yacht about the seas, loaded with rank and honour now, but no longer the lithe young bravo who clambered on board with the prosecco that evening. Otto, my natural Triestine, was stabbed to death in Arabia long ago. The woman who slept one dreadful night at the Risiera has gone to her peaceful rest at last. And the stranger I bumped into that day at the Savoia Excelsior? What swing doors is he passing through today, with what arthritic difficulty, and what tender lies is he telling now that he is old and grey?

  As for me, when my clock moves on for the last time, the angel having returned to Heaven, the angler having packed it in for the night and gone to the pub, I shall happily haunt the two places that have most happily haunted me. Most of the after-time I shall be wandering with my beloved along the banks of the Dwyfor: but now and then you may find me in a boat below the walls of Miramar, watching the nightingales swarm.

  Trefan Morys, 2001

  Something I owe to the soil that grew–

  More to the life that Fed—

  But most to Allah Who gave me two

  Separate sides to my head

  ===============

  Rudyard Kipling

  BOOKS BY JAN MORRIS

  Coast to Coast 1956

  Sultan in Oman 1957

  The Market of Seleukia 1957

  Coronation Everest 1958

  South African Winter 1958

  The Hashemite Kings 1959

  Venice 1960

  The Upstairs Donkey (for children) 1961

  Cities (essays) 1963

  The World Bank (for the World Bank) 1963

  The Outriders (political statement) 1963

  The Presence of Spain 1964

  Oxford 1965

  The Pax Britannica Trilogy 1968—1978

  The Great Port (for the Port of New York Authority) 1969

  Places (essays) 1972

  Conundrum 1974

  Travels (essays) 1976

  The Oxford Book of Oxford (ed.) 1978

  Destinations (essays) 1980

  The Venetian Empire 1980

  The Small Oxford Book of Wales (ed.) 1982

  A Venetian Bestiary 1982

  The Spectacle of Empire 1982

  Wales, The First Place (with Paul Wakefield) 1982

  Stones of Empire (with Simon Winchester) 1983

  The Matter of Wales 1984

  Journeys (essays) 1984

  Among the Cities (essays) 1985

  Last Letters from Hav (novel) 1985

  Scotland, The Place of Visions (with Paul Wakefield) 1986

  Manhattan ‘45 1987

  Hong Kong 1988

  Pleasures of a Tangled Life 1989

  Ireland, Your Only Place (with Paul Wakefield) 1990

  Sydney 1992

  O Canada! (essays) 1992

  Locations (essays) 1992

  Travels with Virginia Woolf (W.) 1993

  A Machynlleth Triad (with Twm Morys) 1994

  Fisher’s Face 1995

  Fifty Years of Europe 1997

  Lincoln 1999

  Our First Leader (Welshfantasy) 2000

  Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere 2001

  ABOUT THE AUTHOR

  The Welsh writer Jan Morris, who is seventy-five this year, has written some forty books and says that this is the last. They have included several historical works about the rise and decline of the British Empire, six collections of travel essays, major studies of Europe, Wales, Spain, Venice, Oxford, Hong Kong and Manhattan, two capricious biographies, two autobiographical works and a couple of short novels. She is an honorary D. Litt of the University of Wales, a member of the Gorsedd of Bards of the Welsh National Eisteddfod, an honorary Fellow of the Royal Institute of British architects, a Fellow of the Royal Literary Society and a Commander of the Order of the British Empire. She lives in the top left-hand corner of Wales.

 

 

 


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