by Nick Zukin
¼ cup chopped fresh dill
Set a large Dutch oven or large, heavy pot over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon of the oil. When the oil begins to shimmer and smoke, add the mushrooms and ½ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate and set aside.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan and stir in the onion. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and soft, about 10 minutes. Add the thyme and bay leaf, sautéing until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the porcini powder, stirring to coat the onion. Add the garlic and the reserved mushrooms and sauté, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes. Stir in the barley and 8 cups water. Bring the mixture to a boil, decrease the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes.
Stir in the carrots and cook, covered, until the barley is tender, about 30 minutes longer. Add the parsley and dill. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately.
Hungarian Mushroom Soup
Serves 4 to 6
No, the mushrooms aren’t from Hungary, but paprika is a traditional Hungarian flavoring. Though in Hungary the word refers broadly to all peppers, paprika here in the United States is a dried and powdered form of red chile peppers. Dark, earthy, and pungent smoked paprika lends depth and complexity, while bright red cayenne adds heat to this soup’s creamy base. Sliced mushrooms and bits of chopped red pepper complete a rich and delicious presentation that differs little from what Hungarians have been enjoying for generations.
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 large red bell peppers, cored, seeds and ribs removed, and finely chopped
2 pounds button or cremini mushrooms, stem ends trimmed and sliced
1 tablespoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons Hungarian sweet paprika
1 tablespoon Hungarian smoked paprika
2 teaspoons dried dill
1 teaspoon dried thyme
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
8 cups half-and-half
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ cup sour cream, plus more for garnish
6 sprigs fresh dill, for garnish
In a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot set over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the onion and bell peppers and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and soft, about 10 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, and then stir in the mushrooms along with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cook the mushrooms, stirring every few minutes, until they are tender and brown and have given up their liquid, 10 to 15 minutes.
Stir in the tomato paste, and then both paprikas, along with the dried dill, thyme, and cayenne. Stir until the mushrooms are evenly coated with the dark red paste. Continue to cook for another 3 minutes, stirring often to release the flavors and aromas of the herbs and spices. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds longer.
Pour all but ¼ cup of the half-and-half into the pot, stirring to dissolve any clumps of spices. Bring the soup to a simmer, but do not let it boil, continuing to stir as needed to keep any solids from sticking to the bottom of the pot.
Meanwhile, put the flour in a small bowl and slowly whisk in the remaining ¼ cup half-and-half. Whisk until smooth.
When the soup begins to simmer, slowly stir in the half-and-half mixture. Continue to stir to prevent any lumps from forming. Decrease the heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer, stirring every 5 minutes to prevent the soup from sticking to the bottom of the pot, until the flavors meld and the soup thickens, 30 minutes longer. Stir in the sour cream until smooth, and then add the remaining 2 teaspoons salt.
To serve, ladle the soup into warmed soup bowls and garnish with a dollop of sour cream and fresh dill.
Note: If you can’t find smoked paprika, use additional sweet paprika as a substitute.
Tangy Potato Salad
Serves 6 to 8
Most modern American delis make a bland potato salad heavily dressed in mayonnaise. This picnic-quantity recipe borrows from the German tradition of dressing potatoes with vinegar for a tangier result, adding just a bit of the traditional mayonnaise and egg. Sour pickles and their juice add just a touch more puckery punch. The end result is a zesty but still creamy potato salad.
2 pounds red potatoes, cut into ¾-inch cubes
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup red wine vinegar
2 large hard-boiled eggs, finely diced
¼ medium red onion, finely diced
⅓ cup finely chopped sour dill pickles
2 teaspoons sour pickle juice from the pickle jar
⅓ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh baby dill
Freshly ground black pepper
Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water by at least 3 inches. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.
Drain the potatoes and transfer them to a large bowl. Add the vinegar and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, stirring to evenly coat the potatoes. Set aside to cool for 10 minutes.
Add the eggs, onion, pickles, pickle juice, mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, parsley, and dill. Gently mix everything together, taking care not to smash the potatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Transfer the potato salad to a serving bowl or covered container. Serve warm, or refrigerate until cold. The potato salad will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Caper and Red Onion Potato Salad
Serves 4 to 6
One taste of this super-tangy potato salad and you’ll think twice about going back to your old mayonnaise-based version. The capers add a sharp-salty note. Pickled onions add their own special bite. And the herbs round out this full-flavored dish. Best of all, it’s simple to make and a satisfying side dish for home or sharing at a summer potluck.
2 pounds new red or yellow potatoes
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup capers, drained
¾ cup Pickled Red Onions, drained, plus 1 tablespoon of the pickling liquid
1 tablespoon whole-grain or stone-ground mustard
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
Cut the potatoes into ⅛- to ¼-inch-thick slices. Put in a large bowl filled with ice water to keep them from discoloring.
Fill a medium pot half full of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the 1 tablespoon of salt. Drain the potatoes and transfer them to the boiling water. Cook until tender but not falling apart when pierced with a fork, 7 to 10 minutes. Drain the potatoes thoroughly.
In a large bowl, combine the capers, pickled onions plus pickling liquid, the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, the mustard, olive oil, parsley, and dill. Add the potatoes and toss to evenly distribute, being careful to avoid breaking up the potatoes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to chill and allow the flavors to meld. The potato salad will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Latke Salad
Serves 4
Have leftovers from your Hanukkah celebration? Looking for an excuse to eat our Crispy Potato Latkes and call it a “salad?” Do we have the dish for you. It’s a combination of chopped-up latkes and your favorite variety of crunchy-sweet apple, diced up and bound together with sour cream and accented with fresh dill. The end result is
a modern classic to share with family and friends.
6 Crispy Potato Latkes
1 large full-flavored apple (such as Jonagold, McIntosh, or Honeycrisp), chopped (about 2 cups)
1 tablespoon minced fresh dill
½ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup sour cream
1 tablespoon milk
Coarsely chop the latkes and put them in a large bowl with any crispy crumbs that result from the chopping. Add the apple, dill, salt, and pepper.
In a small bowl, whisk together the sour cream and milk until smooth. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the sour cream dressing into the latke-apple mixture until thoroughly combined.
Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate until chilled.
Russian Egg Salad
Serves 4 to 6
This traditional egg salad—a variation of a dish common in Russia—is as much a breeze to make as it is a pleasure to eat. It is similar to, but has a different flavor profile than, the Hungarian Casino Egg Salad, which emphasizes the umami in the anchovies and capers. This salad balances the rich eggs with piquant and aromatic horseradish and dill. The simple list of ingredients is readily found at any neighborhood grocery store. For punch, use the hottest horseradish you can find. And if the eaters in your household prefer a less chunky salad, the whites of the hard-boiled eggs can be chopped to whatever consistency they prefer. Serve with lettuce and fresh vegetables as a salad, or make a terrific sandwich with lettuce and tomato on toast.
6 hard-boiled eggs, halved
¼ cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh dill
⅛ teaspoon prepared horseradish
Scoop the yolks from the halved eggs and put them in a medium bowl. Add the mayonnaise, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Whisk together until a creamy, smooth paste forms.
Coarsely chop the egg whites and add them to the bowl, along with the dill and horseradish. Fold the ingredients until thoroughly mixed.
Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. The egg salad can be made up to 3 days in advance.
Hungarian Casino Egg Salad
Serves 4 to 6
This egg salad supposedly originated with a chef who cooked for European royalty before a stint at the National Casino in Budapest, Hungary. Odds are you won’t find this delicious dish on any Las Vegas or Atlantic City menu, but it is a sure bet for lunch or at the dinner hour. Butter and sour cream lend a rich foundation, but it’s still lighter than a typical mayonnaise-based egg salad. And the anchovies add a hint of salt and briny depth. This is terrific served with lettuce and fresh vegetables as a salad, or with lettuce and tomato on toast as a sandwich.
6 hard-boiled eggs, halved
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
3 tablespoons sour cream
2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 anchovy fillets packed in oil, drained and minced
1 tablespoon chopped capers
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion or shallot
Scoop the yolks from the halved eggs and put them in a medium bowl. Add the butter, sour cream, vinegar, and pepper. Whisk together until a creamy, smooth paste forms.
Coarsely chop the egg whites and add them to the egg yolk mixture, along with the anchovies, capers, chives, and red onion. Gently fold the ingredients until fully mixed.
Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. The egg salad can be made up to 3 days in advance.
Classic Chicken Salad
Serves 4
For this updated traditional deli dish, shredding the chicken once it is cooked and cooled gives the best texture to the finished salad. A lighter hand with the mayonnaise means that dieters shouldn’t be afraid to try at least a little. Be judicious with the horseradish, or leave it out altogether if you prefer. A little goes a long way.
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed of fat
2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ medium yellow or white onion, minced
2 celery stalks with leaves, leaves chopped and ribs cut into ¼-inch dice
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
½ to 1 teaspoon prepared horseradish (optional)
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Juice of 1 small lemon
Place the chicken breasts in a medium saucepan and add enough cold water to cover the chicken by 2 inches. Add 2 tablespoons of the salt. Measure 2 tablespoons of the onion and set aside. Add the remaining minced onion to the pan with the chicken. Bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer the chicken until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F on an instant-read thermometer and is no longer pink inside, about 10 minutes. Drain and rinse the cooked chicken breasts under cold water until cool to the touch, then pat dry with paper towels.
Shred the chicken and place it in a large bowl. Add the reserved minced onion along with the celery and celery leaves. Toss to combine.
In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, horseradish, if using, the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, the pepper, and lemon juice. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the mayonnaise mixture into the chicken until thoroughly mixed.
Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. The chicken salad can be made up to 3 days in advance.
Seasonal Chicken Salad
With chicken the meat of choice among old-country Ashkenazis, it came to be used in innumerable traditional recipes, providing sustenance in a diverse range of dishes. Chicken salad is one that emerged to become a standard in New World delicatessens. It is equally amenable to further variation by being adapted to modern seasonal eating habits. In the recipes that follow, we provide both a “classic” take along with variations for spring, summer, fall, and winter.
Spring Chicken Salad with Peas, Radish, and Mint
Serves 4
In our hometown of Portland, Oregon, seasonal eating is practically a religion. This chicken salad variety is at its very best with the emergence of succulent early spring produce: peas, mint, and radishes. Of course, all these ingredients can be found fresh or frozen year-round, so if you like this dish as much as we do and can’t wait for spring to roll around, you can manage to make it any time.
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed of fat
2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ cup fresh or frozen shelled peas (about 12 ounces in pods)
4 to 6 radishes, trimmed and diced
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
¼ cup mayonnaise
Place the chicken breasts in a medium saucepan and add enough cold water to cover the chicken by 2 inches. Add 2 tablespoons of the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer the chicken until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F on an instant-read thermometer and is no longer pink inside, about 10 minutes. Drain and rinse the cooked chicken breasts under cold water until cool to the touch, then pat dry with paper towels.
Shred or dice the chicken and place it in a large bowl.
If using fresh peas, steam them for 3 minutes and then rinse them under cold water for 1 minute. Pat dry with paper towels. If using frozen peas, cook the peas in boiling water just until fully thawed and slightly warm to the touch, 1 to 2 minutes. Rinse in cold water until cold, and pat dry with paper towels. Add the peas, radishes, mint, and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt to the bowl with the chicken. Toss until evenly distributed. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold
in the mayonnaise until well combined.
Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. The chicken salad can be made up to 3 days in advance.
Summer Chicken Salad with Tomatoes, Cucumber, and Cracklings
Serves 4
Bright red tomatoes, heavy on the vine, are a sure sign of high summer. The sun and heat also bring cucumbers along to their plump-to-bursting peak. Our summer chicken salad highlights these flavors of the warm months. For a crunchy counterpoint, the baked chicken skins, or cracklings—an alternative to more traditional Gribenes (see here)—are mixed into the salad just before serving.
1 pound boneless, skin-on chicken breasts
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 ripe plum (Roma) tomatoes or 8 ounces cherry tomatoes
1 medium cucumber, ends trimmed, halved lengthwise, seeds removed, and diced
¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme
¹⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Remove and set aside the skin from the chicken breasts. Place the chicken breasts in a medium saucepan and add enough cold water to cover the chicken by 2 inches. Add 2 tablespoons of the salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer the chicken until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F on an instant-read thermometer and is no longer pink inside, about 10 minutes. Drain and rinse the cooked chicken breasts under cold water until cool to the touch, then pat dry with paper towels.
Place the chicken skins, stretched as much as possible without tearing, in a nonstick rimmed baking pan. Alternatively, line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and lightly coat the foil with cooking spray. Lightly sprinkle the chicken skins with ½ teaspoon of the remaining salt. Roast the chicken skins until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the chicken skins to a plate lined with a double thickness of paper towels to absorb the excess fat. (They will be somewhat flexible when first removed from the oven, but will crisp up fully as they cool. Any rendered chicken fat left on the baking sheet can be poured into a container and reserved in the refrigerator for uses requiring schmaltz.)